ER sidestone help

[eagle_eyes]

I'm a rather naive man who is trying to educate himself about diamonds as much as possible but would value any assistance!

Girlfriend has indicated she would like a sapphire ring +/- some diamonds. I've used one of the pricescope sellers and bought a loose 1.2 carat light blue sapphire for a centrestone. I was thinking about two diamond sidestones (looking at the ratios, maybe 0.4 carat), perhaps round or half moon? She has said she would prefer a platinum band.

I've attached a couple of pictures that would be the sort of style I was thinking of -I prefer the one one the left (just seems slimmer?)

I need your help with:

a.) a sanity check - does this all seem doable? I would need to find a jeweller who can set the stones etc for me. How much would a setting like that one one the left be, any guesses?

b.) what sort of diamonds do you think would be okay (in terms of the 4Cs) for a diamond of 0.40 carat. Prioritise cut? How important is colour offset against a light blue sapphire?

Thank you so much.

 

[rockysalamander]

Congratulations! How about step-cut trapazoids, a bit elongate? I'd let the designer source them for you. But, I love mixing brilliant and stepcuts. I'd make them more elongate, like picture 3, so the taper a bit more to allow a more delicate band. David Klass could make this, the ring below is Diamonds by Lauren.

http://www.diamondsbylauren.com/ind...ht-yellow-si2-cushion-cut-gia-eye-clean-r5235

 

[rockysalamander]

Color wise, it will depend on the body color of both, but G works with light blue. For a price, you could call David Klass in LA or DiamondByLauren. There may be a stock option through james allen or ritani, but gemstones often need semi of full custom.

 

[Matthews1127]

On the finger, with round side stones:

Vertical Baguette side stones:

Tapered Baguettes 5 stone ring:
Tapered Baguette Side Stones:
Small, Round Side Stones w/French cut pave’:

Pear Side Stones:
These can be done by DK, CvB_IJ, VC, etc....

 

[tyty333]

I prefer the rounds as side stones but what do you think your GF might like?
Example of pricing...JA does set outside stones (they are running a sell right now).
https://www.jamesallen.com/engageme...-half-moon-diamond-engagement-ring-item-51017 moons
https://www.jamesallen.com/engageme...-diamond-engagement-ring-trapezoid-item-51015 traps
https://www.jamesallen.com/engageme...ound-blue-sapphire-engagement-ring-item-16644 rounds...you would have
to get a quote for this using diamonds (there is an example under the round stones)

David Klass may be able to do it cheaper or ID Jewelry...you would have to call and get a quote.

BGD may do it (may cost a tad more)
https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/engagement-rings/three-stone/

 

[tyty333]

Can you give us the mm size of your sapphire?

For round side stones...
Prioritize cut first. I would go with G/Hs which will still be very bright/white if well cut. Clarity...if you need to save money go down to eye-clean SI1s.
If you dont need to save money then go with VS level.

Stuller also makes several 3 stone settings that could be used.
https://www.stuller.com/products/bu...mmendationSource=SiteSearch#/mounting-options
https://www.stuller.com/products/123163/?groupId=194486&recommendationSource=SiteSearch *would have to check if could do for oval/cushion

Just dont let the jeweler set them too high. Make sure you fine a jeweler who can do nice prongs (since you are going to have a lot of them with 3 stones)

 

[rockysalamander]

f you go with rounds, the proportions of this ring (not mine) are lovely.

 

[MollyMalone]

Hi, @eagle_eyes

In order to help us better help you, would you kindly share
* the dimensions (length, width, depth) & shape of the sapphire you purchased (not sure if your sapphire is like those in the pics you posted or if those pics simply reflect the kinds of setting you're thinking of) -- or if the sapphire is still on the vendor's web site, you could just post a link to the listing
* where you live (I'm guessing, based on the spelling of jewellry and color, you live in Canada, Australia, or the UK?)
* your budget for the complete setting, and
* if you consider yourself to be on a deadline, e.g., Xmas?

 

[lalala]

@Matthews1127 is that your stack (first pic you shared with the rings on a finger)? It's gorgeous

 

[Matthews1127]

@Matthews1127 is that your stack (first pic you shared with the rings on a finger)? It's gorgeous

Oh no! I wish!! It’s beautiful!! I googled “Oval sapphires with Side Stones”, and picked from what I found for ideas!!
I’m working on my own stack.

 

[GearGirly]

I love the larger round side stones, it’s more like a three stone with the center as a sapphire. If budget allows I think that would be really pretty!

 

[eagle_eyes]

Hi everyone,

Thanks so much for all your replies. I'll answer more tomorrow when she isn't around!

I think rounds are what she would prefer. Sapphire is this one. I am in the UK. Not on a time limit if I am honest. dimensions are 6.2x5.3mm

 

[Matthews1127]

Hi everyone,

Thanks so much for all your replies. I'll answer more tomorrow when she isn't around!

I think rounds are what she would prefer. Sapphire is this one. I am in the UK. Not on a time limit if I am honest. dimensions are 6.2x5.3mm

Beautiful!! 0.33-0.45ct rounds will look so pretty & really help the sapphire stand out....

 

[eagle_eyes]

So looking for a few diamonds that fit the bill, there are two 0.45 Excellent cut, G colour, SI, GIA certified diamonds on bluenile at the moment looking at the search box. Is anyone able to have a look at them and tell me what they think?

 

[rockysalamander]

So looking for a few diamonds that fit the bill, there are two 0.45 Excellent cut, G colour, SI, GIA certified diamonds on bluenile at the moment looking at the search box. Is anyone able to have a look at them and tell me what they think?

Either you need to find a stock setting and select the right size in mm, not carat weight, or are you going full custom? Many stock setting come with sidestones or some dont. Which path are you on? Stock or custom?

 

[eagle_eyes]

Either you need to find a stock setting and select the right size in mm, not carat weight, or are you going full custom? Many stock setting come with sidestones or some dont. Which path are you on? Stock or custom?

I may be able to go down the custom route if I get it setting copied abroad, but I am only just looking into that. I think from what I have read on here that is a much more difficult route though. For the stock settings, I had a look at the ones that were posted on here at it seems like they are quite US-centric. For someone in the UK, is that normal? For example, would I have to post out the sapphire to the jeweller in in the US, get them to set it and then have it sent back?

 

[KKJohnson]

If you go custom the jeweler might require you source the size stone with them. A lot will allow you to use your own center stone but most will source their own melee. Before buying side stone check with whomever you choose to make the ring

 

[MollyMalone]

I honestly don't think you have a choice (nor would a US resident). The length-width dimensions of your sapphire -- 6.2 mm x 5.3 mm -- aren't close enough to those of the standard oval heads available for any stock ring mounting/semi-mount I'm seeing in, e.g., Stuller's online catalogue. So it looks to me that you'll have to go the custom (a/k/a bespoke) route -- and find a good jeweler who's willing to accept an "outside" center stone, i.e., one furnished by the customer.

@OoohShiny had a very positive experience with Durrants in Hatton Garden; here's the post as he was deciding whom to use for a ring featuring the Crafted by Infinity diamond he ordered from High Performance Diamonds (PS Trade member Wink) here in the US:
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...-vs-cad-off-site-casting.205165/#post-3733579
Page 3 of this thread is where he describes the final stages of the ring's fabrication & then posts pics:
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/crafted-by-infinity-0-67ct-f-vvs2.202616/page-3
And he's continued to warmly recommend Durrants since.

Most recently, @BrimstoneTwo & her fiancé used Durrants & were pleased from the outset:

@OoohShiny * * *
We did another round of window shopping but when we asked three different shops if they were willing to set a stone we already had, two refused outright. We then went to Durrants.

We discussed settings and options at length and they are more than happy for us to provide the stone. Caroline was very down to earth, knowledgeable and patient. We found a setting extremely similar to the one we posted above, and they can build and modify it to our wishes. We also confirmed our decision to flank a white gold ER with two rose gold pave bands. The only things left to decide are what type of pave and if the ER will also have pave or remain plain.

We met Stephen and were invited to see the workshop. He happily showed us what he was working on and explained exactly how they work. They still do a lot of their work by hand, and his knowledge was impressive. Being nerdy types who like to know how things work, we were thrilled!

We decided to discuss things alone before making a decision but before we had walked two shop lengths we had decided to go with them. Although we don't have a firm quote yet, the figure that Caroline ballparked for us sounds very reasonable for the work involved. * * *

Here are the photographs she just posted of the ring:
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...ver-my-whiteflash-aca-engagement-ring.235255/

 

[rockysalamander]

I may be able to go down the custom route if I get it setting copied abroad, but I am only just looking into that. I think from what I have read on here that is a much more difficult route though. For the stock settings, I had a look at the ones that were posted on here at it seems like they are quite US-centric. For someone in the UK, is that normal? For example, would I have to post out the sapphire to the jeweller in in the US, get them to set it and then have it sent back?

In general, you want a single jeweller to set all the stones in a setting. If the setting is stock (pre-set), you want a single jeweller setting any optional stones (usually center and sometimes the side stones).

Hatton Garden Bespoke Diamond Jewellery Workshop. https://www.facebook.com/HattonGardenBespokeDiamondJewelleryWorkshop/
Durrants in Hatton Garden
Midas Jewellers on King Street in Manchester
Isabella George Jewels. Good bench work.Mostly on referral/recommendation; can be contacted through [email protected]

I concur with @MollyMalone that you will have to go custom. We can help as you go through the CAD stage, you can post the ring you liked and asked them to replicate and the CAD they propose. One thing I'd specifiy in your design is that you want to allow for a flush fitting wedding band, the side stones should tuck slightly under the center, and you want delicate claw prongs.

I usually personally prefer the sides stones tucked slightly under the mains stone and at a slight downward angle Like this ring by JBG.


I personally don't like the gap between the sides and center here. But, its personal choice.

 

[MollyMalone]

* * * One thing I'd specifiy in your design is that you want to allow for a flush fitting wedding band, the side stones should tuck slightly under the center, and you want delicate claw prongs.
I usually personally prefer the sides stones tucked slightly under the mains stone and at a slight downward angle Like this ring by JBG.

I personally don't like the gap between the sides and center here. But, its personal choice.

I share rockysalamander's preference as I think that way of setting the side stones is more graceful.

Here's a page from Durrants' web site showing a 3-stone ring of theirs. Although the ring has a round center stone flanked by pear side stones, it does suggest that they are attuned to tucking in the side stones at a slight downward angle:
https://www.durrantslondon.com/products/round-with-pears

 

[rockysalamander]

Here's a nice inspiration (by DavidKlass), if you like a trellis setting. I like that the trellis provide a pretty side view. The shank narrows at the top and then flares.


The key for this to be flush is to make sure they "suck in" the area in red so it is no wider than the shank of the ring.


This has a really nice prong arrangement on the center which provide better girdle protection (to prevent damage). Its a great unique take with the bezel side and great prongs.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BZgj3mEleHS/?hl=en&taken-by=davidklassjewelry