Engagement guidance!? Split shank,halo,knive edge,pave

[jdrex]

Hi,

I am in the market to buy a ring, I am the guy... haha... so you can imagine this is quite new to me. That being said I have researched diamonds in general for a while.

Based on what I have seen, I think I would like to get something a little more unique and stray away from the Round cut diamond...

I have looked at some step cut diamonds (Emerald, Asscher) and then Radiant... then Cushion. So pretty much everything... haha. I'm not crazy about the Princess cut and the Radiant cut reminds me of the Princess cut... so I feel like those are off the table.

The bride to be, has no preference really... and has no idea about any of this.

I figured that finding the right setting first and then matching a diamond might be the better way to go... so...

I have seen a settings online that are.... Split shank (not too wide), Halo, Pave, Knife edge that tapers up towards diamond (no shelf really, if that makes sense).

I realize I have checked off most of the boxes with that setting... thoughts anyone?? By looking at the forums... it seems like Gypsy is the Guru... and anyone else!

Looking for some guidance on this setting and what stone would be a good match. So describe the lady, she is modern with a touch of classic.... she loves to mix the old and new.

Thanks!

 

[MMtwo]

May be easier to start with a stone. The setting shows the stone to its best advantage, so without a shape to compliment, it's hard to build a pretty ring. Sort of like picking a paint color for a car without picking out the car first.

 

[jdrex]

Ok...

I think it is safe to say that I am looking for a Cushion that will be approximately 1.3 ct +/- .1

Her finger is a size 6.

 

[jdrex]

Unless it is truly recommnded that round or otherwise is the better route!?

 

[Travelgal]

What is your budget? That will help determine the stone and setting.

 

[jdrex]

Max $10k.

Doesnt mean I have to get to that... haha...

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Round is going to be more brilliant and usually faces up larger. If you want a fine split shank halo setting, you can consider someone like Victor Canera. But you'll need around $4k+ for a handforged setting. You can get a CAD version by Engagement Rings Direct or Caysie van Bebber probably in the $3k range.

One idea is to do a round in a cushion halo setting. I think this one looks a little cushiony.

http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/the-anne-marie-split-shank-halo

single shank with cushion halo:

http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/the-emilya-round-center-in-cushion-halo

split shank with cushion halo (but I like the shank to be a little less spread apart than this one)

http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/the-donna-split-shank-halo

Anyway, that gives you some ideas of how to do a cushion halo on a round stone. He does gorgeous round halos as well.

 

[jdrex]

The second ring in the thread below has a great art deco look to it as well... this is going to be tough... haha

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/forum/post3703969.html#p3703969']https://www.pricescope.com/forum/post3703969.html#p3703969[/URL]

 

[MMtwo]

If you want a stone that is a little different, have you considered an antique cut?
Either an August Vintage from Good Old Gold http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamond/10789/
antique style with current light return precision

or a beautiful older style cut that is a true antique from Erica at loveaffaridiamonds.com http://www.loveaffairdiamonds.com/loose-diamonds/

Grace at jewelsbygrace.com/
http://www.jewelsbygrace.com/loose-diamonds/1-ct-to-2-00/1-21ct-transitional-cut-diamond-gia-certed-j-vs1.html

 

[jdrex]

moneymeister thanks for the feedback. I'm not sure I have to deviate to a different diamond cut completely to get that different look...

How about this as a starting point so I know what to look for as a comparison:

http://www.solomonbrothers.com/DiamondDetail.aspx?sku=145210&affiliate=9318613A-AD0C-4530-A456-0409DFEFB8DE&utm_source=PriceScope

I figure a 7mm x 7mm diamond should have a decent size to it, obviously it is not some monster, but that is out of my range

 

[MMtwo]

moneymeister thanks for the feedback. I'm not sure I have to deviate to a different diamond cut completely to get that different look...

How about this as a starting point so I know what to look for as a comparison:

http://www.solomonbrothers.com/DiamondDetail.aspx?sku=145210&affiliate=9318613A-AD0C-4530-A456-0409DFEFB8DE&utm_source=PriceScope

I figure a 7mm x 7mm diamond should have a decent size to it, obviously it is not some monster, but that is out of my range

Sorry I must have misunderstood what you are looking for...The link did not have a photo but it says it is a round brilliant. At the beginning of your thread you said, "Based on what I have seen, I think I would like to get something a little more unique and stray away from the Round cut diamond..."

 

[Gypsy]

Hiya! Thank you for the kind words. There are (fortunately) quite a few guru's on here. We are blessed in that respect.

So... clarify for me, you said cushion above. And then there was a mention of a round as well.

As for which is better. Neither. There is no 'better' shape. Honestly. Each shape has it's pluses and minuses.

Specifically for cushions, they can face up smaller for their carat weight than rounds, but in general they cost less per carat.
Rounds are not very unique, but they are the easiest to shop for, and they also cost the most per carat.

You said your budget is 10K.

And I don't see you interested in any halos. Which is a good thing for your budget.

Do me a favor, answer this questionnaire:

1. What is your budget? (10K, I started you off )

2. How old are you guys?

3. What do she do for a living/working toward doing for a living.

4. How does she dress? Does she dress up a lot, or is she a jeans and T-shirts girl? Grundge? Tailored Ann Taylor tastes?

5. Does she prefer white metals or yellow/pinks ones

6. How is her house decorated? Does she love antique store trolling? Does she love everything Pottery Barn? Is she ultra modern with lots of metal and leather?

7. Is she clumsy? Is she very put together?

8. Does she love handbags and have a stable of them to choose from? Are they mostly practical (neutral colors: brown, black, beige) or are there a lot of colors in there? Blue, purple, red?

9. What metro area are you in or near? Or are you in the country? Tell me where you live and what it's like there (if it's not obvious, like NYC).

10. Do you guys have pets? Want them? What kind? How about kids? Have them? Want them?

11. Is she a brand name girl? Does she love things with brand names? If so why? Is it the dependability of brand name quality that appeals to her or is it the bragging rights? Or is she more understated and while she appreciates quality brand names don't do it for her?

12. Okay now, describe her to us in your own words? I've never met her, bring her to life me. What qualities does she have that you love? What is her sense of humor like? Just... tell us about her. Use many words. The more you tell us the better.

13. Has she expressed an interest in any particular style of ring (halo, Legacy, solitaire, three stone) or shape of stone (round, marquise, pear, princess, emerald, radiant.)?

14. What is her existing jewelry like? A lot of variety, or are there a few select pieces of similar design? What does she wear regularly?

 

[Gypsy]

I'm not understanding what you mean about a "Shelf"... so I am kinda flying blind with settings but here some options:

1.
Stone:
http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamond/11939/ $6,879 Lovely modern cushion. Great performance.
Setting Options (GOG carries Beverly K) under 3000:
http://www.beverleyk.com/r4022-a-d-d-m.html
http://www.beverleyk.com/engagement-rings/r1231-a-d-d-m.html (this has the three sided pave you liked above, but... these styles make it hard to wear a matching wedding band without damage, so I included it, but I don't recommend it)

2.
Stone:
http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamond/12281/ BEAUTIFUL antique faceted ideal performance round. No one else will have a round like this. If you are going to go for a round, this is the best way to make it unique.
Setting Options under 2500:
http://www.beverleyk.com/r9154-a-d-d-cz.html
http://www.beverleyk.com/engagement-rings/rtj007-a-d-d-m.html (shelf???)
http://www.beverleyk.com/r9011-a-d-d-cz.html
http://www.beverleyk.com/engagement-rings/r1229-a-d-d-cz.html

 

[Gypsy]

Maybe this is what you mean with your setting? I love this one:

http://www.beverleyk.com/r9412-a-d-d-cz.html Halo, split shank, a bit of a knife edge..... This one is EXTREMELY affordable. Under $1200 in 18kt. I would ask for the platinum price for it.

And you an put this stone in it:
http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamond/12281/

Still confused about shelves...

 

[TC1987]

Shelf = cathedral shank, maybe? or peg-head shank, with a straight bar across the top of the finger?

cathedral


Cathedral that obviously uses a peg head


The other situation that looks like a "shelf" (that I can think of) is a shank that isn't cathedral style but does have a big wide gap and a straight bar between shanks, where the peg head would insert.


Or, he wants a halo with more of an integrated head?

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Maybe this is what you mean with your setting? I love this one:

http://www.beverleyk.com/r9412-a-d-d-cz.html Halo, split shank, a bit of a knife edge..... This one is EXTREMELY affordable. Under $1200 in 18kt. I would ask for the platinum price for it.

And you an put this stone in it:
http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamond/12281/

Still confused about shelves...

Gorgeous combination!!!!

 

[SirGuy]

This sounds fun! I know it's a lot of pressure on you to make a good decision. (I've been there, man!) But it's a great adventure and you're in the right place to learn and get amazing feedback. You'll probably change your mind a dozen times the more you learn, and that's okay.

Now, you mentioned that she has no particular preference for the shape of the stone. It might be worth discreetly figuring out if that means she really doesn't care at all, of if she doesn't have any she particularly loves. Because she might think, "I don't care as long as it's pretty," but then see a marquis and go, "Um, I've no preference except I hate that shape." So knowing what to avoid is just as important as knowing what to select.

Round brilliant is the classic choice. There are lots of reasons for this. But remember that light performance in a diamond is as much science as art, and it's a popular one for a very good reason. They face up very well, are more forgiving of lower color, and have the potential to be jaw-dropping amazing performers.

I've a suggestion, if I may offer it.

Have you considered three-stone rings? I quite enjoy these for a few reasons. First, it allows you more finger coverage, and is a different way of adding dazzle besides a halo or melee shank. Second, it allows a more reasonable purchase financially because you're not putting all of your money in one stone. A 1.5 carat round costs more than three stones totaling 1.5 carat. (That way more of your budget can go towards cut.) Third, it allows you to combine two stone shapes in one ring. You can do a round center and princess side stones. Or an Asscher center with round sides. Or a marquis with pears. Whatever! All three the same or the center different can be very pleasing to the eye, and be "different" without being odd. If they're superbly cut, they'll sparkle across the room; it won't be until the admirer is up close that one would realize the different shapes.

Hope this helps! I'm looking forward to seeing how your journey goes.

 

[lioness]

The bride to be, has no preference really... and has no idea about any of this.

Hmmmm.... As a woman, I'm not so sure about that. Is there are discreet way for you to discern her tastes? Any bridal magazines in her home with conveniently dog-eared pages? A friend who can be trusted to not spill the beans??

My college roommate's boyfriend was ready to propose, but he had no idea what she wanted because she, allegedly, had no preferences. He sought out a blunt hammer who could keep a secret to ferret out her tastes. That would be me. Mission accepted, I said to her one day totally out of the blue, "So, you guys have been together for ages. Is he gonna pop the freaking question or not? What kind of ring would you like?" Turns out that the woman who supposedly had no opinion had very definite inclinations. The college jock who lived in sweats was infatuated with the idea of an ornate antique ring. Information conveyed, ring acquired according to specs. Happily ever after.

Do you have a hammer?

I'm looking forward to reading your answers to Gypsy's thorough questionnaire. Let's have some fun finding a ring for your lady.

 

[jdrex]

Wow everyone!! I'm blown away with all the activity on this thread!! wow... hahaha...

Sorry that I have been MIA, I was out of town for a few days!

So what I meant by no shelf on a halo, if I were to go that route, meant that the band tappers to the halo, or as TC1987 pointed out, is cathedral. Sorry for all that confusion.

Lioness, ok yes I agree, you are totally right she obviously must have preferences but she has never discussed it with me. I will answer Gypsies questionaire (too funny, but I love it).. haha. As for having a hammer, that one is tough, my sister is one of her closest friends and that is the last person I want as a hammer... I want to keep this on the DL. I do know she doesn't like fancy shapes like pear or heart or marquise. What I also know, is she is not well versed in diamonds in general so can't have a huge opinion...

Now for Gypsies questionaire!

1. What is your budget? (10K, I started you off )

2. How old are you guys? 30

3. What do she do for a living/working toward doing for a living. --> An operations manager running a network of 11 privately owned diagnostic imaging clinics. Family ties, aspires to grow and be at the top of this business of 80 employees.

4. How does she dress? Does she dress up a lot, or is she a jeans and T-shirts girl? Grundge? Tailored Ann Taylor tastes? --> Business casual for work, work dresses... more dressed up than not, but not Ann Taylor... more so Rachel Roy, Zara, Mazzimo Dutti

5. Does she prefer white metals or yellow/pinks ones --> White

6. How is her house decorated? Does she love antique store trolling? Does she love everything Pottery Barn? Is she ultra modern with lots of metal and leather? --> we live together... Our home is mid century modern, with some reclaimed wood pieces, some walnut wood pieces (coffee table, etc), some moderny art deco pieces... this is our bedroom light (not the price we paid haha) --> http://www.voltexdesign.com/paper-chandelier-moooi-pid568.htm and then this is our kitchen light --> . We definitely stop in the antique shops as well, but never seem to pull the trigger on something.

7. Is she clumsy? Is she very put together? Well put together.

8. Does she love handbags and have a stable of them to choose from? Are they mostly practical (neutral colors: brown, black, beige) or are there a lot of colors in there? Blue, purple, red? She has maybe 5 handbags, so not a stable... there is a combination of neutral and colour... not shy abuot colour.

9. What metro area are you in or near? Or are you in the country? Tell me where you live and what it's like there (if it's not obvious, like NYC). Downtown Toronto.

10. Do you guys have pets? Want them? What kind? How about kids? Have them? Want them? We have a Labradoodle.

11. Is she a brand name girl? Does she love things with brand names? If so why? Is it the dependability of brand name quality that appeals to her or is it the bragging rights? Or is she more understated and while she appreciates quality brand names don't do it for her?
--> She is not an absolute brand name girl that wears "Juicy" all over her ass... haha... but she does like brands mainly for the dependipility of brand name quality and definitely not bragging rights. If she had a $1000 handbag she would prefer no one knew that unless they could tell, as oppose to a $300 handbag where the name is plastered all over it.

12. Okay now, describe her to us in your own words? I've never met her, bring her to life me. What qualities does she have that you love? What is her sense of humor like? Just... tell us about her. Use many words. The more you tell us the better.
--> She is elegant, professional, if you are in her circle she would defend you to a fault.... she is the type of person that when buying someone a birthday gift, puts endless thought into it... haha... to a fault, but always nails it!! Looks wise she is a natural brunette beauty, slender at 5'6"; as oppose to a blonde bombshell who seeks attention (no offence to anyone!!)

13. Has she expressed an interest in any particular style of ring (halo, Legacy, solitaire, three stone) or shape of stone (round, marquise, pear, princess, emerald, radiant.)? --> I asked her in passing once about some fancy shaped stones like the pear, marquise, oval, heart... definitely didn't like those. She also doesn't not like the showiness of the princess cut. That being said, we have extremely similar taste and I seem to get it right now for her more times than not (unless she is very nice to me... haha)... I'm not the type of guy that gives her gift certificates... but more so shoes (if there is one thing she like brand names or ... its designer shoes), handbags, clothing, jewellery.

14. What is her existing jewelry like? A lot of variety, or are there a few select pieces of similar design? What does she wear regularly?
--> she has a bunch of swarovski stuff, pearls, those Mallorca dark pearl earrings, an older white ring with the irish symbol, a LINK sinlk bracelet, couple tiffanies silver pieces.... she is not a girly girl that has everything in pink.

I hope those were the type of answers/detail you were looking for.


All this being said, yesterday I went to a local diamond dealer in Toronto's "diamond district"... a few friends have gone to the same guy so I figured I'd start the process while also researching online and I looked at a few stones. I feel like I'm leaning towards going the Round stone route especially since I don't have a "hammer" to get hints from her on what she prefers.

The stones we were looking at were 1.20-1.25 rounds, ideal, ex, that are as close to 7mm x 7mm. The colour was G-I and the clarity we were looking at to start was Sl1 was no inclusions in the middle, so definitely eye clean and difficult even with a scope and untrained eye (I'm an engineer so its hard to fool me... ). The setting that really caught my eye was the Tacori twist pave (custom replica with a few changes) in 18k white gold, total price out the door is $9500...

 

[Travelgal]

Wow, you gave us a lot to think about! It sounds like she would like something classy yet with a flare/personality. The setting you picked out is really pretty, but it seems a bit high to me. I prefer my stones set a little lower so that I don't bang them or get them caught on clothing.

This is very different than what you picked out and may be too modern for her, but my instinct as you were describing her is the ring on the left in the Sholt home page. (And the picture of your kitchen and knowing you live in a city)
http://www.sholdtdesign.com

If you think she will like more of the Tacori intricate design, I like this one as well:
http://www.tacori.com/engagement/2565mdrd75pk.html

Not sure how you feel about these, if they are too antique or "girly" looking for you.
http://www.greenwichjewelers.com/shop/designers/beverley-k/products/beverley-k-delicate-milgrain-round-diamond-engagement-ring
http://www.greenwichjewelers.com/shop/designers/beverley-k/products/beverley-k-split-shank-knife-edge-engagement-ring

 

[Gypsy]

OK. The woman you described to me is going to have a VERY definite preference as to her ring.

I don't like the setting you picked for a number of reasons. I don't like it for HER. And I don't like it for durability.

And I don't see her being a halo girl.

She likes understated great quality pieces for her own enjoyment not for others.

I actually think an Emerald Cut would be a nice choice for her, with baguettes on the side. Or a Round Brilliant.

And I also think a pre-loved Tiffany or Birks piece would be a great fit, if we can find one in your budget.

 

[Gypsy]

Halos are very "showy" she is NOT going to want a halo and I would not get her one unless she specifically requested one.
Here are the engagement ring styles I suggest for her if you aren't going to get more information (I suggest you get more information):

A Hearts and Arrows Round Brilliant in a Sholdt setting like this G-H/SI:

And an Emerald Cut with Tapered baguettes:

 

[distracts]

Honestly from reading the Q&A, she sounds like she likes classic beauty. I think that Tacori twist pave setting would be all wrong for her. I would get her a solitaire or a setting with tapered baguette sidestones. You can get something with a little bit of fancy detailing, like a fancy basket or engraved shank or something, but I don't think she would want something totally encrusted with diamonds, and definitely not something like the Tacori. That's just... not to diss your taste, man, but no. Just imagine wearing something that tall on your finger all the time. Your girlfriend sounds like she'd want something a bit more practical. Mid-century modern as a style is all about function combined with form, so I'd keep in mind that the ring should be practical and easy to integrate into her lifestyle as well as beautiful. As well, a simpler ring reads as more "professional" than an elaborate one, and it sounds like she likes to keep her dress and accessories pretty professional.

 

[Gypsy]

I agree.

I posted the Sholdt solitaire above. And an Emerald with tapered baguettes. I agree with distracts that a round in a taped baguette setting would also be a great choice. This is my favorite taped baguette setting as it has fluid lines and allows a flush fit band.

Torsa engagement ring by MaeVona

 

[jdrex]

Wow! You all seem to know better than I do!! haha... I do admit that seeing the Tacori setting, was the first time I was in a place looking at settings.

I do like the contemporary look of the Sholdt setting. And I also love the the tappered baguette look, either with round or emerald; I'm assuming a round would sparkle more? Does the Sholdt show the stone very well?

All that being said, I still do feel that small diamonds on the ring itself or subtle halo would still be something she would like.... although I know she would like anything I would give her, she won't be diappointed for sure.

What are your thoughts on something like this?
http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/the-azi-round-trilogy-with-tapered-baguettes


(In the questionairre above, she is quite modest and shy to show things off, but still likes driving that proverbial 'BMW/Mercedes'... not meant to sound vain at all... I hope that makes sense)

But the options that you have all suggested are all very attractive and touch different: tappered baguette, Sholdt

 

[Gypsy]

The Victor setting is very lovely AND top quality. I wouldn't do full eternity so she can size it later on if she needs to and I would request brightcut pave instead of the style pictured (safer for wear and looks just as lovely) Everything with Victor is custom. Just have it go 2/3s the way down the shank. And Victor's quality is fantastic. Yes, rounds are showier with more frequent flashes of their smaller facets than emeralds which do tend to be more understated. But a well cut EC is breathtaking too with those large flashes of light.

Only issue with Victor is that the setting will likely run you around 4,000. So that eats into your stone budget of 10k unless 10k is your stone budget and you have a separate setting budget.

EDIT:
Actually, ERD can make you that setting, but 2/3rds eternity, with brightcut pave AND the profile of the Torsa engagement ring by MaeVona to allow for a flush fit. Probably under 3k in platinum. That's what I'd do.

Contact information:
http://www.engagementringsdirect.com/site-page/contactus.html
I would send them an email:

Hello I was referred to you by pricescope. I would like a quote for setting below (or attached) but with the following modifications. I would like add brightcut pave down the shank, extending 2/3rds of the way around. Can you quote me for CAD for ring in both 18kt white gold (Stuller X-1 metal alloy preferred for this) and platinum as well so I can choose? I particularly like the gallery and profile design of the setting and will want that same design for my ring.


Additionally I will need a center stone for this, can you please source me a couple options to chose from? I want a Modern Round Brilliant diamond of a carat or larger. GIA graded G or H color and eyeclean SI1 clarity or better. Please make sure the stone has an HCA score 2.5 or under. I will need an idealscope and real image of the diamonds. 60/60 stones and Tolk. stones are both acceptable to me provided they have an excellent idealscope image/performance but I would prefer a 60/60 stone to have an HCA of 2 and under.

After I have your quote for the setting I will be happy to discuss budget with you for the stone.
Thank you!
YOUR NAME HERE .


Okay? That's what I would do. THEN I'd call them and ask them to go check their email and talk to them about it. OK?

 

[jdrex]

Well it doesn't have to be the Victor setting specifically, it was more of an example for the setting.

So do you think having the pave along with the tappered baguettes is still a nice look or does it take away from it??

When you say brightcut pave, is that with or without millegrain? (I'm obviously googling all this terminology ... haha)

If you don't mind take a look again on the Victor link, doesn't that Pave stop 2/3 of the way down the shank? Just making sure I understand all this correctly...

Now I need to start thinking about the stone... emerald or round... hmmmm...


Oh and I'm aiming for $10k all in.

 

[Gypsy]

Oh I didn't look at the video. Yes it is 2/3rds. I missed that.

As for brightcut, you can have it with milgrian or without. It's applied after, during the finishing process. So there's plenty of time to decide on that. If you want it, ask for it. If you don't, then just specify "no milgrain, please".

I edited my post above, so you might want to take a look at that.

 

[Gypsy]

Emerald for reference:

 

[jdrex]

Ok thats great thanks.

Why the platinum instead of white 18k gold?

And you are of the opinion that the pave on the shank will still suit the tappered baguette look?