Diamond ring + Brilliant Earth advice

[WinkHPD]

The A Cut Above diamonds that Whiteflash hold are all AGS0 certified as being ideal and are rounds.

However, the company which Wink is an agent for was the first to design and cut AGS0 ideal princess cut diamonds. This company is based in Antwerp in Europe and its name is Crafted by Infinity, ask Wink at High Performance Diamonds if they still cut Princess Cut diamonds. Crafted by Infinity are way up there with Whiteflash too. I think they are the most beautiful Princess Cut diamonds I have seen. Paul who is one of the company owners actually did a presentation on webcam to us here many years ago, when Pricescope allowed us that feature, Wink used to do many presentations too, very enjoyable they were, especially seeing his handmade gold rings, I especially like the ones an old man did for him with berries.


http://www.craftedbyinfinity.com



I noticed under their heading Provenance they have a bit written about conflict free too.
Also wanted to add that Paul used to write quite a bit on this forum and I remember he answered many questions I asked. He is a very personable man and he is a master diamond cutter too. I can't see diamonds listed on the site anymore so I think you need to go to an agent like Wink now to buy from them. The company has increased in size I believe so that will be the reason. Wink will know. Their upgrade policy is one of the best if not the best also, ask Wink about it. I have not bought from them but would certainly recommend them amongst others on this forum.

Just catching up on my reading and chanced on this kind post from Pyramid,

Oh good heavens, the nostalgia that you bring forth mentioning my friend and craftsman, Bei Van Tiet. He escaped from Vietnam around 1978 or early 1979 and his sister contacted me through a church who came to ask me if I knew someone who would give him a job as a jeweler. I had just opened my store in mid 1979 and had a bench room for him to use, but hardly any real equipment. His sister took him to San Fransisco and bought him some basic equipment to go with the torch and tanks that I had.

He started out making hand made items with gold that he mixed to 18 kt himself to his own formula. He would then roll it through the mill that he bought until it was the thickness that he wanted and then would cut pieces to be hammered into the shank, and even smaller pieces to be pulled, by hand, through ever smaller holes until he had wire that he used to make ornate vine designs to go on the sides of his gallery work on both rings and pendants. He would usually have some grape bunches on the "vines" as well. One of my early memories was going into the bench room and seeing him breaking his new files in half and making them old and worn like the ones he was used to working with in Vietnam.

We were trying to buy his family out of Vietnam when they escaped on boats. Shortly before reaching Thailand, their boat was boarded by Thai pirates. His daughter was taken, and in spite of our looking for years, never found. After more than a year his remaining family arrived in the United States. Not too long before Bei died I had a nice talk with him and even more than twenty years later when ever he talked about the Thai Pirates it was a with a voice filled with venom and aching with loss.

He went from an employee to being a friend and when I went to the Buddhist ceremony for him his sons stood holding hands with me for a long time afterwords telling me about him and how he loved working with me when he arrived in the States. For many years after he left my employ and opened his own small Vietnamese grocery store complete with a small jewelry bench I would go by and have him make a piece for one of my clients. He would never tell me how much to pay him, only said that I knew what it was worth to me, so I am sure I always paid more than I had to, but I always loved him for his complete trust of me.

Thank you Pyramid, for bringing those memories boiling to the surface to be freshened and treasured once again.

Wink

 

[Gypsy]

If the 60 point WF stone fits your budget, then get it. It's a great stone. Great upgrade policy.

 

[Gypsy]

Here are some other options. Just to give you choices (you would ask for an idealscope or an ASET):

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut/0.67-carat-g-color-si1-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-1978967
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut/0.80-carat-i-color-si2-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-1997477

You would ask the gemologist to examine them to make sure they are eyeclean.

Setting: https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut/0.80-carat-i-color-si2-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-1997477

 

[smarti51]

Here are some other options. Just to give you choices (you would ask for an idealscope or an ASET):

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut/0.67-carat-g-color-si1-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-1978967
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut/0.80-carat-i-color-si2-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-1997477

You would ask the gemologist to examine them to make sure they are eyeclean.

Setting: https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut/0.80-carat-i-color-si2-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-1997477

Thank you.

I posted a while back that I asked this question generally to the James Allen customer service staff and received the following reply:

In order to provide our customers with the largest selection of diamonds at the best possible prices, James Allen sources diamonds from all over the globe. While we are happy to provide in-depth gemological inspection and additional photography for those diamonds located near our New York office, those additional services are unavailable for diamonds located outside of the US. Regardless of their location, however, rest assured knowing that every diamond and handcrafted piece of jewelry we sell is personally inspected and verified by one of our in-house gemologists prior to shipment.

While not exactly the same, this reply seemed rather close to the one I received from BE which set alarm bells ringing in here. Any thoughts?




EDIT: I asked about the first diamond you posted a link to and received the same response as above.

 

[smarti51]

What do you think of the aforementioned 0.607ct round brilliant ACA with this setting?





I like how simple and elegant it looks (which is what she wants) but am unsure if the prongs holding up the diamond would be too high for the size I'm going for - which also leads me to ask, is the stone too small? I didn't think so until I seen this thread: http://www.pricescope.com/forum/rockytalky/purchasing-first-diamond-a-cut-above-t169235-120.html and a lot of the advice on that is making me think I'm not going big enough. I can't adjust my price range at this stage, but comments, as always, are most welcome.


Just to remind you of the diamond:

 

[smarti51]

Also out of curiosity what size and other comments would you lot attribute to the following:

1:

2:

3:

4:

 

[sonnyjane]

I like how simple and elegant it looks (which is what she wants) but am unsure if the prongs holding up the diamond would be too high for the size I'm going for - which also leads me to ask, is the stone too small? I didn't think so until I seen this thread: https://www.pricescope.com/forum/rockytalky/purchasing-first-diamond-a-cut-above-t169235-120.html and a lot of the advice on that is making me think I'm not going big enough. I can't adjust my price range at this stage, but comments, as always, are most welcome.

]

That would be WAY too high for me as far as a daily ring. I'll let others chime in as well, as I'm not even close to an expert, just know that I'd probably destroy that thing.

 

[smarti51]

I'm beginning to think she'd see it that way too. I might try to go for something more similar to photos one and two of my post above yours.

Another question that I'm unsure of is that white gold vs platinum. Until now I've always maintained it has to be platinum but I saw a white gold ring tonight that has me questioning that philosophy. Any thoughts?

 

[Gypsy]

With your budget white gold is the best idea. You can upgrade to platinum for an anniversary.

 

[smarti51]

With your budget white gold is the best idea. You can upgrade to platinum for an anniversary.

Budget aside, do you consider white gold a fine option or is it simply because it's cheaper? As I said, I had been set on platinum until seeing the white gold band last night.

What's your thoughts on the ring I posted earlier - too high or nay?

Similarly simple alternatives I am considering are:

4-prong:



6-prong:

 

[rockysalamander]

I don't love that setting. PS'rs just posted about favorite solitaire settings. I don't know if White Flash can get all of these, it may help you with some design choices.

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/post-your-favorite-plain-solitaire-setting.164906/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/post-your-favorite-plain-solitaire-setting.164906/[/URL]

Edit to Add. These were all favorites and are available from WF:
Vatche Swan - http://www.whiteflash.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/swan-solitaire-engagement-ring-by-vatche-272.htm
WF setting - http://www.whiteflash.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/elegant-tiffany-style-solitaire-engagement-ring-3581.htm
Vatche Royal Crown - http://www.whiteflash.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/swan-solitaire-engagement-ring-by-vatche-272.htm
Vatch U113 - http://www.whiteflash.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/6-prong-solitaire-engagement-ring-by-vatche-1778.htm

 

[smarti51]

I don't love that setting. PS'rs just posted about favorite solitaire settings. I don't know if White Flash can get all of these, it may help you with some design choices.

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/post-your-favorite-plain-solitaire-setting.164906/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/post-your-favorite-plain-solitaire-setting.164906/[/URL]

Edit to Add. These were all favorites and are available from WF:
Vatche Swan - http://www.whiteflash.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/swan-solitaire-engagement-ring-by-vatche-272.htm
WF setting - http://www.whiteflash.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/elegant-tiffany-style-solitaire-engagement-ring-3581.htm
Vatche Royal Crown - http://www.whiteflash.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/swan-solitaire-engagement-ring-by-vatche-272.htm
Vatch U113 - http://www.whiteflash.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/6-prong-solitaire-engagement-ring-by-vatche-1778.htm

Thanks for the links. Bit expensive for a setting but I'll take them into consideration.

What setting were you referring to in your first sentence? Just wondering as two of the four links you sent look very similar to the settings I posted most recently.

 

[rockysalamander]

Sorry to be unclear. The 4-prong version just above my post. The six-prong might be the same as I posted. Sorry, I just found that you were looking for a setting for ~$1000 usd. For a solitaire based on your photos it looks like delicate prongs, 6-prong, low setting, and basket detail seem to be present. At least one is knife-edge, which I personally find uncomfortable. I like rounded shanks. I also prefer when the prongs come out of the setting donut. Both the setting you chose will allow the prongs and wedding band to rub. I prefer to let the setting donut (circle under the stone) or bridge take the abuse -- not the prongs.

Using $1000 usd for the setting and WF as the vendor in 14k white...I prefer the Danhov CL140 Classico, Vatche 1513 Felicity, and Vatche 1508 Venus, over the one you selected, in that order.

 

[smarti51]

Sorry to be unclear. The 4-prong version just above my post. The six-prong might be the same as I posted. Sorry, I just found that you were looking for a setting for ~$1000 usd. For a solitaire based on your photos it looks like delicate prongs, 6-prong, low setting, and basket detail seem to be present. At least one is knife-edge, which I personally find uncomfortable. I like rounded shanks. I also prefer when the prongs come out of the setting donut. Both the setting you chose will allow the prongs and wedding band to rub. I prefer to let the setting donut (circle under the stone) or bridge take the abuse -- not the prongs.

Using $1000 usd for the setting and WF as the vendor in 14k white...I prefer the Danhov CL140 Classico, Vatche 1513 Felicity, and Vatche 1508 Venus, over the one you selected, in that order.

Does the part I've placed in bold have ramifications as far as likelihood of the prongs breaking off and the stone falling out goes?

Thanks for the recommendations, will have a look. I was almost set on the Ritani knife-edge posted further up the page, but I really began to doubt it due to the height it seems it will set the stone at.

 

[rockysalamander]

It is not really a risk for the stone to fall out. That would take about 40 years of rubbing or a hard blow to the prongs (although that is why I usually favor 6 over 4 prongs).

If I read the thread correctly, you are likely to use 14k white gold. Assuming you get it plated, that is what you will see wear off from any metal-metal contact (and just general wear). The more contact with the plating, the more quickly it will wear off. If the prongs are rubbing the wedding band (also plated), that will also show the effects. Letting the band rub against the setting donut solves the prongs being rubbed but not the wedding band being rubbed. But, at least you don't have prongs that are half plated and half not. I avoid plated metal for myself. Nickel is still used in the US (banned in the EU), but I avoid it due to sensitivity. WF 14k white is 58.5% gold, 24% copper, 9% zinc, 9% nickel. So, that would leave yellow gold, palladium white gold (WF does no seem to have), rose gold and platinum. If you use a WF branded setting, they might be able to do the band/shank in unplated metal and the head/prongs in plated white gold. Combine that with prongs emerging from the setting donut (not the official name...btw), and you can minimize the issue.

But, if you are going to upgrade per @Gypsy's suggestion, then this all becomes too much worry over a small detail.

 

[smarti51]

It is not really a risk for the stone to fall out. That would take about 40 years of rubbing or a hard blow to the prongs (although that is why I usually favor 6 over 4 prongs).

If I read the thread correctly, you are likely to use 14k white gold. Assuming you get it plated, that is what you will see wear off from any metal-metal contact (and just general wear). The more contact with the plating, the more quickly it will wear off. If the prongs are rubbing the wedding band (also plated), that will also show the effects. Letting the band rub against the setting donut solves the prongs being rubbed but not the wedding band being rubbed. But, at least you don't have prongs that are half plated and half not. I avoid plated metal for myself. Nickel is still used in the US (banned in the EU), but I avoid it due to sensitivity. WF 14k white is 58.5% gold, 24% copper, 9% zinc, 9% nickel. So, that would leave yellow gold, palladium white gold (WF does no seem to have), rose gold and platinum. If you use a WF branded setting, they might be able to do the band/shank in unplated metal and the head/prongs in plated white gold. Combine that with prongs emerging from the setting donut (not the official name...btw), and you can minimize the issue.

But, if you are going to upgrade per @Gypsy's suggestion, then this all becomes too much worry over a small detail.

http://www.whiteflash.com/engagemen...ffany-style-solitaire-engagement-ring-582.htm

Sorry to be a nuisance but can you talk me through what you mean using that ring? I get the white gold vs platinum vs palladium theory/spec. stuff, it's the prongs details I don't quite understand.

In terms of getting white gold replated when it wears off, I've read that is comparatively inexpensive. I've got in touch with a jewellers here to see how much they charge when the ring is not one of their own, just to be in the know.

 

[Elepig]

smarti51, I like that first Ritani setting you posted. Four prong; simple. Would look great with the .60 ct.

My engagement ring looks very similar but in 18k yellow gold. My diamond is .37ct. I have never had a problem with snagging it on anything.
And personally, this is just me, I'd stick with platinum (or yellow gold) over white gold, for several reasons -
1. nickel allergy aspect
2. white gold has to be 'dipped' on occasion
3. extra cost and maintenance of #2

 

[smarti51]

smarti51, I like that first Ritani setting you posted. Four prong; simple. Would look great with the .60 ct.

My engagement ring looks very similar but in 18k yellow gold. My diamond is .37ct. I have never had a problem with snagging it on anything.
And personally, this is just me, I'd stick with platinum (or yellow gold) over white gold, for several reasons -
1. nickel allergy aspect
2. white gold has to be 'dipped' on occasion
3. extra cost and maintenance of #2

Thanks for your input, Elepig.

Do you have any photos of your ring? I'm just unsure that Ritani knife-edge will set the stone too high.

Re: white gold - I've read numerous places that getting it dipped is quite inexpensive, especially considering how much you initially save on that vs platinum. Also, I can't quite stretch my funds to the platinum version of the alternative settings, so if I don't go with the Ritani knife-edge, I go with white gold.

 

[shaggy1]

I have a white gold Solitaire that I have worn daily for 5 years and it hasn't had to be replated yet.

 

[smarti51]

I have a white gold Solitaire that I have worn daily for 5 years and it hasn't had to be replated yet.

What kind of ring did you get, if you don't mind my asking?

 

[wildcat03]

I don't know what it costs elsewhere, but the local jewelers here charge $40-$100 for rhodium dipping. (Yes, $100 is highway robbery!). It is not inexpensive and needs to be done fairly frequently to keep it looking new - at least amongst my friends. Some people are more picky than others.

Please, please, please do NOT buy that Ritani setting. The stones you are looking at are the best of the best - truly ideally cut. That setting is just kind of clunky and inelegant (apologies if I am offending anyone here). It would be a shame to put such a gorgeous stone in a setting like that! Please consider saving a little bit more for one of the solitaires listed above - you won't regret it.

 

[shaggy1]

I have a white gold Solitaire that I have worn daily for 5 years and it hasn't had to be replated yet.

What kind of ring did you get, if you don't mind my asking?

It was custom from a local jeweler whom I've known for years. It's a 3 prong, split shank so I don't think your woman would like it.

Every time I've louped it I can barely see the scratches. Some may want to think my piece looks like junk but it really doesn't show wear, other than the very bottom and even that is minor imo.

Platinum is great but if it's not in your budget, don't feel like white gold is 'cheap' or unsuitable.

 

[smarti51]

I don't know what it costs elsewhere, but the local jewelers here charge $40-$100 for rhodium dipping. (Yes, $100 is highway robbery!). It is not inexpensive and needs to be done fairly frequently to keep it looking new - at least amongst my friends. Some people are more picky than others.

Please, please, please do NOT buy that Ritani setting. The stones you are looking at are the best of the best - truly ideally cut. That setting is just kind of clunky and inelegant (apologies if I am offending anyone here). It would be a shame to put such a gorgeous stone in a setting like that! Please consider saving a little bit more for one of the solitaires listed above - you won't regret it.

I've no idea how much it costs over here (it's free if you've bought the ring in-store in most places) but I'll find out when the jewellers I contacted respond.

I contacted WF about the six-prong elegant Tiffany-style solitaire as it had no option for 14k white gold. The response was:

The Whiteflash setting does sit slightly lower than the setting from Ritani that you are considering, however we can request that the diamond be set as low as possible, if that is something that you would like. With a 6 prong setting, keep in mind that a wedding band might not sit completely flush, most of our clients to not mind the slight spacing that is created, but it is something that I wanted to mention. We can quote the Elegant in 14k white gold, however it usually only lowers the pricing $50-$100 and the modification would make the ring semi-custom and non-returnable (but the ring would be covered under our 1 year service policy). Whiteflash also has a 4 prong version of the classic Tiffany style as well:
http://www.whiteflash.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/4-prong-tiffany-style-solitaire-engagement-ring-1024.htm

As for saving more, that would entail changing my proposal date and the details surrounding it, so not sure I want to wait much longer. The responses (both on here and round the internet) seem to be mixed re: white gold vs platinum. I don't really see the problem in getting it dipped every few years as that would be like her getting a near-new ring every time - especially as there is such a difference between the two in price, it doesn't necessarily throw me off. That said, I did set out to get platinum initially, now that I've found the diamond I want to get her, though, the setting has to be in a certain price bracket.

 

[Elepig]

Give me a minute and I'll see if I can upload a few.

It was bought 31 years ago and back then we knew zero anything diamond. The diamond is not certified and the setting is very thin. Probably about a 1 to 1.5 mm with a bit of a knife edge. My husband paid around $700 total.

 

[shaggy1]

My jeweler charges $20 to rhodium dip, just to give you a range. I'm in San Francisco.

 

[smarti51]

I have a white gold Solitaire that I have worn daily for 5 years and it hasn't had to be replated yet.

What kind of ring did you get, if you don't mind my asking?

It was custom from a local jeweler whom I've known for years. It's a 3 prong, split shank so I don't think your woman would like it.

Every time I've louped it I can barely see the scratches. Some may want to think my piece looks like junk but it really doesn't show wear, other than the very bottom and even that is minor imo.

Platinum is great but if it's not in your budget, don't feel like white gold is 'cheap' or unsuitable.

Well that's mostly what I'm worrying about.

 

[shaggy1]

Can I ask why you wanted platinum to begin with? Has your girlfriend stated a preference for platinum over white gold?

 

[shaggy1]

I have a white gold Solitaire that I have worn daily for 5 years and it hasn't had to be replated yet.

What kind of ring did you get, if you don't mind my asking?

It was custom from a local jeweler whom I've known for years. It's a 3 prong, split shank so I don't think your woman would like it.

Every time I've louped it I can barely see the scratches. Some may want to think my piece looks like junk but it really doesn't show wear, other than the very bottom and even that is minor imo.

Platinum is great but if it's not in your budget, don't feel like white gold is 'cheap' or unsuitable.

Well that's mostly what I'm worrying about.

I know a woman worth > 10 million dollars who set her engagement ring in white gold. She felt that platinum was too soft and that it needed polishing more than white gold needed dipping.

Tastes differ on this.

It really only matters what your girlfriend wants, and what you can afford. As Gypsy said, you can get the white gold now and if your girlfriend still wants Platinum a few years down the road, upgrade to platinum then.

 

[smarti51]

Can I ask why you wanted platinum to begin with? Has your girlfriend stated a preference for platinum over white gold?

No preference from her, no. Just that she likes simple solitaire rings. It was really just myself who was set on platinum and that was because the first few sources I read when I started looking initially pointed me in that direction.

 

[smarti51]

I have a white gold Solitaire that I have worn daily for 5 years and it hasn't had to be replated yet.

What kind of ring did you get, if you don't mind my asking?

It was custom from a local jeweler whom I've known for years. It's a 3 prong, split shank so I don't think your woman would like it.

Every time I've louped it I can barely see the scratches. Some may want to think my piece looks like junk but it really doesn't show wear, other than the very bottom and even that is minor imo.

Platinum is great but if it's not in your budget, don't feel like white gold is 'cheap' or unsuitable.

Well that's mostly what I'm worrying about.

I know a woman worth > 10 million dollars who set her engagement ring in white gold. She felt that platinum was too soft and that it needed polishing more than white gold needed dipping.

Tastes differ on this.

It really only matters what your girlfriend wants, and what you can afford. As Gypsy said, you can get the white gold now and if your girlfriend still wants Platinum a few years down the road, upgrade to platinum then.

That is a good point. Would that be something I would revisit WF for if it's in a few years?

Also, while I'm in contact with WF tonight, is there anything specific I should be asking with regards a white gold setting in terms of plating or anything like that?