Custom Ring -- best mounting for an OEC with a chip and nick?

[tigerhearted]

Hi everyone! I need help deciding on a mounting for my OEC. My fiance is having a custom wedding set made for me by Green Lake Jewelry.

The OEC turned out to have a chip and a nick that were hidden under the prongs. But it's still gorgeous and I love it, and the appraiser (Teri Newman Brossmer in Glendora was awesome btw!) says it is still worth $1500, and we only paid $900, so we are satisfied with the transaction.

The diamond also has a Very Thin Girdle as is so common with the older diamonds. So, I want to set it in a way that will not only protect and hide the existing chip and nick, but also protect the rest of the girdle from future damage.

Here is what Green Lake just messaged me with on the matter:

They (the in-house gemologist and stone-setter) recommend setting it in a Half Bezel, Full Bezel or 4 prongs. If they set it with 6 prongs the prongs are smaller and will not cover the chip/nick. If they set it with claw prongs they will be to thick and cover to much of the stone. Full Bezel is going to protect it the best, the second best would be half bezel (but since you don't like this style, lets just skip this

I don't really like the half-bezel look, plus it leaves so much of the girdle unprotected. I really like the design they came up with for a full bezel, but I worry about the diamond receiving enough light to really sparkle. I also like the 4prong design and it would provide ample light, but again I worry about the rest of the girdle being unprotected.

What would you guys recommend?? Attached is the magnified pic Teri took to show the chip and nick. It is a .61ct, J, SI2. Would be a VS2 if not for the chip and nick...still looks like a VS2 though! Thanks!!

 

[tigerhearted]

Here is a close-up in its previous setting, shown with a wedding band we were considering.

 

[tigerhearted]

And an arms-length shot.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I love Greenlakes! They are the best.

I think I would do a full bezel for that stone. Have you seen Chrono''s full bezel OEC? It is stunning, I will dig it up for you. Bezel does not affect optics for diamonds, which reflect light through the crown not the pavilion.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Chrono''s ring is in this thread:

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/overdue-pictures-of-my-rings.113328/

 

[yssie]

That''s gorgeous

Full bezel here, too. Half bezel always seems a very modern design to me, not really in keeping with the antiquey charm of an OEC

 

[Upgradable]

Totally agree with full bezel.

I love the pictures of Green Lake''s pieces, but have never seen one in person.

I would like to humbly offer James Meyer as another way to go.

 

[LGK]

Full bezel. My OEC has a nick, and an extremely thin girdle, and I *adore* having it bezeled. Can''t loupe the chip and give it the evil eye (which I did occasionally do in the prong setting it came in, lol), and out of sight, out of mind. And it''s soooo much safer with a bezel. It feels good to have it protected. Plus, what I hadn''t figured on before I had it bezeled, seeing the pattern of the OEC cut without prongs to distract from it, is quite cool.

GLJs is awesome. Gorgeous work, especially their engraving, and they do a lot of bezels.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Date: 3/15/2010 9:34:04 PM
Author: Upgradable
Totally agree with full bezel.

I love the pictures of Green Lake''s pieces, but have never seen one in person.

I would like to humbly offer James Meyer as another way to go.

Yes, a very different style but also so well suited to old cuts. And his prices are surprisingly reasonable for the quality.

 

[tigerhearted]

Wow that looks amazing!! That really helps, thank you both for the pic and link. I've been having a tough time visualizing an OEC in a full bezel. Seeing these pics is so encouraging! And good to hear about the optics and light, this is a big load off my mind.

GLJ has been AMAZING. We have been working with Kristin and Kirk. Kristin has been an angel. I think I spent about 2 weeks messaging back and forth with her every day, asking questions and getting details, before my fiance even began the design process with her and Kirk. I can't speak for Kirk because I haven't worked with him myself, but Kristin's customer service has been exemplary. She has answered every single of my countless questions, is prompt, and her tone (so hard to convey well in the written word) is always professional, friendly and helpful. She even sent me sample bands of 14k and 18k yellow golds, and 18k rose gold (we paid their value of course, refundable upon return), so I could see what their metals look like and choose what I like best. Kirk's designs and ideas have been so beautiful. We are getting near to a final design sketch now! Very exciting. I can't wait for the CAD!

 

[Lorelei]

Date: 3/15/2010 8:00:17 PM
Author:tigerhearted
Hi everyone! I need help deciding on a mounting for my OEC. My fiance is having a custom wedding set made for me by Green Lake Jewelry.

The OEC turned out to have a chip and a nick that were hidden under the prongs. But it''s still gorgeous and I love it, and the appraiser (Teri Newman Brossmer in Glendora was awesome btw!) says it is still worth $1500, and we only paid $900, so we are satisfied with the transaction.

The diamond also has a Very Thin Girdle as is so common with the older diamonds. So, I want to set it in a way that will not only protect and hide the existing chip and nick, but also protect the rest of the girdle from future damage.

Here is what Green Lake just messaged me with on the matter:

They (the in-house gemologist and stone-setter) recommend setting it in a Half Bezel, Full Bezel or 4 prongs. If they set it with 6 prongs the prongs are smaller and will not cover the chip/nick. If they set it with claw prongs they will be to thick and cover to much of the stone. Full Bezel is going to protect it the best, the second best would be half bezel (but since you don''t like this style, lets just skip this

I don''t really like the half-bezel look, plus it leaves so much of the girdle unprotected. I really like the design they came up with for a full bezel, but I worry about the diamond receiving enough light to really sparkle. I also like the 4prong design and it would provide ample light, but again I worry about the rest of the girdle being unprotected.

What would you guys recommend?? Attached is the magnified pic Teri took to show the chip and nick. It is a .61ct, J, SI2. Would be a VS2 if not for the chip and nick...still looks like a VS2 though! Thanks!!

Definitely a full bezel would be your best bet, plus no worries about this setting blocking light to the stone due to Dreamer''s explanation.

 

[Upgradable]

I''m excited for you to share your design!!

 

[Bella_mezzo]

full bezel for sure, and I love Chrono''s

 

[Dreamer_D]

I have exchanged a number of e-mails with GLJ too, over the years, and I have also been *very* impressed with theit service as well!

I can''t wait to see what you do!

 

[Lorelei]

I just wanted to add to my post earlier, for some reason I thought we were discussing a modern round diamond, but as it is an old cut then there are a couple of things to bear in mind with bezel setting these stones.

With ideal cut/ top cut stones, bezel settings won't normally affect light return in a negative way, however with old cuts or lesser cut quality diamonds it is in fact possible that a bezel setting can adversely affect the light return. Light enters the crown of the diamond in the usual way, but some full bezel settings can cover part of that crown thus blocking some of the light. This can depend on the size of the bezel itself, obviously this can be more of an issue in a high/ thick bezel depending on the amount of the crown which is hidden. The effects can be subtle, in some cases such diamonds when bezel set might not look as bright as ones set in a more open solitaire but it is something to bear in mind when deciding.


Useful thread from the archives,

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/bezel-oec-light-return-question-paging-storm-and-bezel-oec-owners.113734/

 

[tigerhearted]

Oh drat Lorelei, now I'm so conflicted again! LOL. One of the things I love the MOST about this diamond is how BRIGHT and brilliant it is! Absolutely do not want to lose any of that. I need to decide by tomorrow, or there won't be time to have the wedding set ready in time for the wedding!

GLJ has the diamond already, so I can't do that red paper and paper tube test they mention in that link. I will contact them and see if they can do it for me.

And yes, I'll definitely be posting the final design sketch when we get it hammered down!

 

[luvmyhalo]

I''ve had this bookmarked forever! It''s one of my favorite rings on PS. I would add milgrain to the bezel though.

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/my-2ct-old-english-cut-e-ring.9055/

 

[coati]

Date: 3/16/2010 4:59:25 PM
Author: tigerhearted
Oh drat Lorelei, now I'm so conflicted again! LOL. One of the things I love the MOST about this diamond is how BRIGHT and brilliant it is! Absolutely do not want to lose any of that. I need to decide by tomorrow, or there won't be time to have the wedding set ready in time for the wedding!

GLJ has the diamond already, so I can't do that red paper and paper tube test they mention in that link. I will contact them and see if they can do it for me.


And yes, I'll definitely be posting the final design sketch when we get it hammered down!

Hi tigerhearted,

I bezeled my 3 transitional cuts into a 3 stone, because 2 of the stones had tiny chips and thin girdles. (and because I love bezels) ..I felt it was the best protection. The stones did lose a little life, though not much. The trade off was the added protection. My stones are also very vibrant, so it didn't bother me as much as it would if the stones had excessive light leakage on their own. Hope that makes sense and helps!

eta: Your stone is beautiful! It looks very well cut-a great example of its type.

 

[shimmer]

Hi!

I have had a 0.59 J SI1 OEC in both a bezel setting and a prong setting and it looked far better in the bezel! It was more sparkly and as LittleGreyKitten mentioned, seeing the entire pattern without prongs is amazing

Your diamond is stunning, I can''t wait to see the final ring! I was thinking of Green Lake for a reset of mine, but decided on a stock setting instead.

 

[tigerhearted]

Well we consulted with both our appraiser and GLJ's in-house gemologist, and they both said that the OEC is very well cut and bright. The appraiser said that it is a good candidate for a bezel setting and that only a slight amount of brightness should be lost.

So that's it! We're taking the plunge! Milgrain bezel it is.

Still getting the design fine-tuned, we are nearly done though I think!

 

[Lorelei]

Date: 3/19/2010 3:24:40 AM
Author: tigerhearted
Well we consulted with both our appraiser and GLJ''s in-house gemologist, and they both said that the OEC is very well cut and bright. The appraiser said that it is a good candidate for a bezel setting and that only a slight amount of brightness should be lost.

So that''s it! We''re taking the plunge! Milgrain bezel it is.

Still getting the design fine-tuned, we are nearly done though I think!

Congrats! Sorry I didn''t mean to cause you worry, it was just something I realized I hadn''t properly addressed earlier but it sounds like you are good to go now!

 

[tigerhearted]

Oh no I''m glad you did Lorelei! It''s better to know everything and make an educated decision. I mean what if it turned out our OEC wasn''t well-cut, and it turned out dark and dull when the design was already done?? GLJ has a great policy and would have given us a re-design, but it wouldn''t have been in time for the wedding!

 

[Dreamer_D]

I cannot wait!

 

[tigerhearted]

Me neither Dreamer! It has been a fun and exciting process and is really coming along nicely!

I would call this the rough final sketch? Little things will be tweaked (possibly adding milgrain to the vines to tie in to the bezel; possibly adding 3 small diamonds to the wedding band; the flowers will be morning glories; and the wedding band will be straight not curved), and we need to start on the profile. That shouldn''t take long though, because all I want is some engraving or pierce-work on the side of the bezel, rather than blank metal like a lot of bezels. We''re really just squeaking in under the deadline (wedding on April 24!), eek!

I''m really really looking forward to having such a low-set ring with a bezel mounting. Much as I love the antique and 40''s decade settings, none of the rings I''ve ever bought have had high settings or even prongs! (though none of it was fine jewelry either! silver and turquoise, paua shell, and pearl are what I usually wear) I''m looking forward to having a no-fuss ring that won''t catch in my hair or when drying my hands on a towel, etc.

 

[tigerhearted]

PS: Anyone have an idea about whether to use modern single-cut (right term??) diamonds for the wedding band, or try to source vintage/antique ones? They will be pretty small...probably 2mm. Would modern diamonds look weird paired against the OEC? Ideally I''d prefer to source vintage ones, but we''re running out of time lol.