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Critique this vendor & help me choose the best 1.2X princess

GLRob

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 3, 2013
Messages
22
Hi all, I’ve posted here a few times before looking for info on getting a 1.00-1.25ct princess, which I now need to finalize on pretty soon. I’ve been looking at WF, GOG, and other PS-recommended vendors and had planned to make a purchase from one of them, but one of my best friends recently purchased a H&A 1.18ct round diamond from a local vendor, had a great experience, and insisted I contact that vendor before buying something online. I admit that I’d feel more comfortable buying locally as well, and the vendor seems to be extremely knowledgeable (not to mention helpful and quick to respond to my questions), though having been in sales myself for years, I am inherently distrustful of the recommendations of anyone with a financial stake in my own purchases. Therefore, I’d like to get opinions and comments on the advice he gave me on choosing stones and on the specific stones he recommended. I’d like to trust this guy, but I’d like to hear from the community first. (I don’t want to give his name, for a variety of reasons, so please don’t ask.)

He told me that he thought H color and SI1 clarity would be fine (which I liked because he didn't push higher, and in my opinion unnecessary, grades), although he did say that AGS-graded stones (as opposed to GIA-graded) should probably be G in color since in his experience if the AGS-graded diamond is less than the GIA, expect the AGS to be off a color grade. (I hadn’t heard that before.)

He had this to say about cut: “For princess shape, we generally search for diamonds that have depth percentage 58-76% and table percentage 58-77% to ensure exceptional cut and larger millimeter size for the carat weight. We recommend at least Good (G) for polish and symmetry so that these minor finish characteristics are not visible without a microscope. The other codes, Very Good (VG), Excellent (EX) and Ideal (ID), are higher ratings but differences are only visible under a microscope. We usually prefer princess cut diamonds with 4-step pavilion patterns over 3-step pavilion patterns given the option. The extra row of facets produces more sparkle and in our judgment, a prettier diamond. We work hard to avoid diamonds with Very Thin or less girdle or feathers at the corners that can impact durability of the diamond." He also mentioned that looking at the millimeter size, and not just the caret weight, is a better indication of how big the diamond will look.

He sent me a large list of diamonds that he thought might be good choices, though since a lot of them are smaller than I wanted (and in the interest of time) I won’t list them all. Also, the three letter codes after the measurement numbers are the Polish, Symmetry and Fluorescence ratings, respectively. (Note I can’t get ASET images until he brings in the diamonds, and he can’t have all of them brought in, so I need to trim down the list to 3 at most.)

Diamond #12
PR, 1.23 carat, GIA cert, H color, VS2 clarity, price $5579, depth 63.1%, table 73%, measurements 6.35 x 6.05 x 3.80 mm, ratio 1.05, G G N

Diamond #13
PR, 1.20 carat, GIA cert, H color, VS1 clarity, price $5887, depth 73.3%, table 61%, measurements 5.90 x 5.74 x 4.21 mm, ratio 1.03, VG VG N [Princess specialist cutter]

Diamond #15 – he recommended this one most of all
PR, 1.21 carat, GIA cert, H color, VS2 clarity, price $6123, depth 70.45, table 75%, measurements 6.24 x 5.97 x 4.20 mm, ratio 1.05, VG VG N [big millimeter size, Princess specialist cutter]

Diamond #16
PR, 1.26 carat, GIA cert, H color, VS2 clarity, price $6307, depth 69.4%, table 72%, measurements 6.10x 6.13 x 4.23 mm, ratio 1.00, VG VG N [big millimeter size]

Diamond #17
PR, 1.20 carat, GIA cert, H color, SI1 clarity, price $6355, depth 67.2%, table 74%, measurements 6.10 x 5.98 x 4.02 mm, ratio 1.02, VG VG N

Diamond #18
PR, 1.29 carat, GIA cert, H color, SI1 clarity, price $6418, depth 70.0%, table 72%, measurements 6.26 x 6.03 x 4.22 mm, ratio 1.04, VG VG N

Diamond #19
PR, 1.20 carat, GIA cert, H color, VVS2 clarity, price $6568, depth 68.9%, table 72%, measurements 6.13 x 5.93 x 4.08 mm, ratio 1.03, EX G N

Diamond #20
PR, 1.30 carat, GIA cert, H color, SI1 clarity, price $6720, depth 68.7%, table 75%, measurements 6.17 x 6.05 x 4.15 mm, ratio 1.02, VG EX N

Diamond #21
PR, 1.20 carat, GIA cert, H color, VS2 clarity, price $6760, depth 69.3%, table 73%, measurements 6.13 x 5.96 x 4.13 mm, ratio 1.03, VG VG N

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance!
 
Re: Critique this vendor & help me choose the best 1.2X prin

You can't find a princess based on table/depth. It means diddly squat. If you want to work with a local guy, tell him you only want AGS 0 princesses. I see quite a few on the PS database that matches your specs so he should be able to get something. Around here we all tend toward the cleaner look, so 2 or 3 chevron pavilions are generally preferred over 4, but you can see for yourself. Also around here we don't go for the flat crown/large spread configuration, preferring small tables and at least 10%+ crown height.
 
Re: Critique this vendor & help me choose the best 1.2X prin

Thanks for the reply. I asked the vendor to get me a list of AGS 0 stones. As a follow-up to your other comments, what would you consider a small table, and is there any relation to a well-cut stone and the difference between its table and depth? (I was under that impression.) Or are pretty much all AGS 0 stones "safe" enough to then start picking based on ASET if I like the price and the other 3 Cs?
 
Re: Critique this vendor & help me choose the best 1.2X prin

Well i'm not sure if there is an industry agreement on table size but would probably say less than 60 is very small and 75+ is large with small and medium falling between those values.

AGS 0 is a good starting point. Some are better than others, from there narrow it down by the ASET on the report or seeing in in person. Some AGS 1-3 might be ok but you should look for a 0 in light performance.
 
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