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Compass Setting for Step-Cuts, Yay or Nay?

monipod

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 25, 2019
Messages
577
So far even I've suggested that a compass setting is a bad idea for step-cuts, but I'm now wondering how bad the reflections really are, or do they even happen? I saw a compass setting that really excited me but I don't want prongs to be bouncing across the edges. The prongs for this setting however seemed pretty minimal. Anyone with a compass setting on a step cut or trade person who can weigh in? I should say that my Asscher is only 1.6ct. Thanks!
 

monipod

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 25, 2019
Messages
577
hi monipod,
do you have an image of the compass setting you are referencing??
I did take a screenshot (it was posted publicly in a different thread) but I didn't take note of whose design it was so I was a bit hesitant to post. I'll post it here but will happily remove if the owner recognises it and would like it removed. Apologies in advance!

Screen Shot 2020-10-24 at 3.11.18 pm.jpg
 

Big Fat Facets

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 7, 2019
Messages
1,446
i wear an emerald cut too. i was advised against compass prongs for the reasons you mention. apparently, it will reflect throughout the stone. definitely, not a desirable effect. unfortunately, i do not have first hand experience, though. a point to mention, is that the corners of a step cut are most vulnerable. prongs at the corners will protect them. @lulu_ma will be able to offer first hand experience in terms of protecting a step cut from accidental chipping
 

monipod

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 25, 2019
Messages
577
i wear an emerald cut too. i was advised against compass prongs for the reasons you mention. apparently, it will reflect throughout the stone. definitely, not a desirable effect. unfortunately, i do not have first hand experience...
Thank you :) Yes, I'm wary of leaving the corners hanging but a few people have mentioned that it's not quite like a princess's corner which really needs protection. I can't deny that there are some amazing flashes that come off the corners so I'm open to being convinced that a compass setting is fine lol. I definitely don't want prong reflection though which would be the dealbreaker. I may just have to get a cushion or radiant cut to play around with that setting one day...
 

Big Fat Facets

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 7, 2019
Messages
1,446
Thank you :) Yes, I'm wary of leaving the corners hanging but a few people have mentioned that it's not quite like a princess's corner which really needs protection. I can't deny that there are some amazing flashes that come off the corners so I'm open to being convinced that a compass setting is fine lol. I definitely don't want prong reflection though which would be the dealbreaker. I may just have to get a cushion or radiant cut to play around with that setting one day...
yes, i agree the corners are not sharp like a princess cut. but still more vulnerable. @lulu_ma also wears an emerald cut and hopefully, she will see this and share her experience.

i actually love those prongs in the setting that is featured in the image. i've heard them referred to as ribbon prongs and petal prongs. but whichever they are called, i think they are very beautiful and not very commonly seen. however, i do feel those type of prongs are better reserved for softer shaped stones without corners. ring conierge has versions of those types of petal or ribbon prongs with different cut/shaped stones on her website.
 

Karl_K

Super_Ideal_Rock
Trade
Joined
Aug 4, 2008
Messages
10,625
I did take a screenshot (it was posted publicly in a different thread) but I didn't take note of whose design it was so I was a bit hesitant to post. I'll post it here but will happily remove if the owner recognises it and would like it removed. Apologies in advance!

Screen Shot 2020-10-24 at 3.11.18 pm.jpg
I dont see a problem with that setting.
It is no more vulnerable than one with a prong on the corner.
There is a chance of the prongs reflecting on the long flats but it depends on the cut how much and at what degree of tilt.
Med girdle EC corners could crush a princess cut to dust with little to no damage.
 

monipod

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 25, 2019
Messages
577
i actually love those prongs in the setting that is featured in the image. i've heard them referred to as ribbon prongs and petal prongs. but whichever they are called, i think they are very beautiful and not very commonly seen. however, i do feel those type of prongs are better reserved for softer shaped stones without corners. ring conierge has versions of those types of petal or ribbon prongs with different cut/shaped stones on her website.
They are definitely 'soft' versus the angular look of an Asscher but I'm going for a vingtage/Art Deco look overall so it might work. I will draw it out tonight and see. My jeweller is slotting me in for the end of Nov so I have some time to think about it. Thank you for that. I'll do a little trawling and research :D
 

monipod

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 25, 2019
Messages
577
Thanks @Karl_K - It sounds like you can't leave those prongs to guess work where reflecting is concerned, so we'll see how keen I am on that style versus going safe. The corners are so dazzling that I'm tempted to keep them exposed.
 

lulu_ma

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Sep 9, 2020
Messages
142
So far even I've suggested that a compass setting is a bad idea for step-cuts, but I'm now wondering how bad the reflections really are, or do they even happen? I saw a compass setting that really excited me but I don't want prongs to be bouncing across the edges. The prongs for this setting however seemed pretty minimal. Anyone with a compass setting on a step cut or trade person who can weigh in? I should say that my Asscher is only 1.6ct. Thanks!
@monipod as @Big Fat Facets mentioned I have an ec. I actually chipped the corner for my stone! I did a reset a couple of years ago and had the chip buffed out-luckily the stone didn't lose any carat weight! For my reset, I had the jeweler do double claw prongs to be on the safe side.
 

Big Fat Facets

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 7, 2019
Messages
1,446
@monipod as @Big Fat Facets mentioned I have an ec. I actually chipped the corner for my stone! I did a reset a couple of years ago and had the chip buffed out-luckily the stone didn't lose any carat weight! For my reset, I had the jeweler do double claw prongs to be on the safe side.
@lulu_ma may i ask you the thickness of your emerald cut's girdle?? do you recall how you might have chipped the corner of your emerald cut??

of course, an emerald cut's corner is not going to be as fragile as a princess cut. but independent of that, an emerald cut's corner will the more fragile, or shall i say most fragile, area of an emerald cut.
 

lulu_ma

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Sep 9, 2020
Messages
142
@lulu_ma may i ask you the thickness of your emerald cut's girdle?? do you recall how you might have chipped the corner of your emerald cut??

of course, an emerald cut's corner is not going to be as fragile as a princess cut. but independent of that, an emerald cut's corner will the more fragile, or shall i say most fragile, area of an emerald cut.
@bigfatfacets I never even thought about that! But your instinct is correct, my ec does have a thin to medium girdle. That said I am a little rough with my jewelry anyways :roll:. And I do wear my ec on a daily basis.
 

Big Fat Facets

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 7, 2019
Messages
1,446
@bigfatfacets I never even thought about that! But your instinct is correct, my ec does have a thin to medium girdle. That said I am a little rough with my jewelry anyways :roll:. And I do wear my ec on a daily basis.
the emerald cut i have has a *thick to very thick* girdle. and like you, lulu, i wear my emerald cut daily, as well.
 

Big Fat Facets

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 7, 2019
Messages
1,446

i just wanted to show you how that pretty setting with the compass petal/ribbon prongs looks on a stone without vulnerable corners
 

monipod

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 25, 2019
Messages
577
Thank you @lulu_ma :) It must have been an awful shock! May I ask how big your EC is? My Asscher is relatively small at 1.6 and I'm hoping that if I go the compass setting path, it being set in a milgrained collet might offer extra protection to the corners. I'll see what my jeweller says but I found this thread (https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/asscher-with-compass-setting.222303/) from 2016 which added food for thought. Definitely more research and Instagram trawling ahead!
 

monipod

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 25, 2019
Messages
577

i just wanted to show you how that pretty setting with the compass petal/ribbon prongs looks on a stone without vulnerable corners
Thank you! Oh it's so pretty but I think I would save the petal/ribbon prongs for a different stone, thought I guess at the end of the day, unless you bezel a stone, the girdle is potentially exposed to hits :| I'm leaning towards corner prongs that will leave the tip of the corners exposed but with enough metal to deflect bumps. I'm hoping having enough of a collet as a base will help too :D
 

Big Fat Facets

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 7, 2019
Messages
1,446
Thank you! Oh it's so pretty but I think I would save the petal/ribbon prongs for a different stone, thought I guess at the end of the day, unless you bezel a stone, the girdle is potentially exposed to hits :| I'm leaning towards corner prongs that will leave the tip of the corners exposed but with enough metal to deflect bumps. I'm hoping having enough of a collet as a base will help too :D
what is the thickness of the girdle of your asscher?? do you have an image of it handy to post?
although, my emerald cut has a thick to very thick girdle. i am still aware that the corner is the most fragile part of the stone and if hit, could chip. i will be resetting my emerald cut into a permanent "home" and will be certain to protect the corners with prongs
 

monipod

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 25, 2019
Messages
577
what is the thickness of the girdle of your asscher?? do you have an image of it handy to post?
although, my emerald cut has a thick to very thick girdle. i am still aware that the corner is the most fragile part of the stone and if hit, could chip. i will be resetting my emerald cut into a permanent "home" and will be certain to protect the corners with prongs
It's pretty thick to the point of it looking more like a pavilion step! Mind you, that doesn't help with the very tip of corners. It's been a while since I've ogled my videos/pics. The actual stone is living with my jeweller in his vault now. I'll post something over the weekend along with some proposed ideas :D I think for everyday wear, it makes sense to protect the corners. Another consideration for this new ring for me.
 

Big Fat Facets

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 7, 2019
Messages
1,446
It's pretty thick to the point of it looking more like a pavilion step! Mind you, that doesn't help with the very tip of corners. It's been a while since I've ogled my videos/pics. The actual stone is living with my jeweller in his vault now. I'll post something over the weekend along with some proposed ideas :D I think for everyday wear, it makes sense to protect the corners. Another consideration for this new ring for me.
i agree, for daily wear for a stone with corners or a tip. it is wiser to protect it. honestly, hearing about lulu's first hand experience is enough to put the scare in me. i really do not want to be buffing out a chip, whilst hoping that i don't lose any carat weight:oops2:
 

lulu_ma

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Sep 9, 2020
Messages
142
Thank you! Oh it's so pretty but I think I would save the petal/ribbon prongs for a different stone, thought I guess at the end of the day, unless you bezel a stone, the girdle is potentially exposed to hits :| I'm leaning towards corner prongs that will leave the tip of the corners exposed but with enough metal to deflect bumps. I'm hoping having enough of a collet as a base will help too :D
@monipod hi! my ec is 2.85 ct. but my original setting was very low profile. i can't seem to find a profile pic but here's an overhead one. the diamond was kinda dirty that day btw...

my reset is more elevated than the original. i feel very secure with the double claw prongs. I don't want to risk another chip!

IMG_6107.jpg
 

Big Fat Facets

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 7, 2019
Messages
1,446
@monipod hi! my ec is 2.85 ct. but my original setting was very low profile. i can't seem to find a profile pic but here's an overhead one. the diamond was kinda dirty that day btw...

my reset is more elevated than the original. i feel very secure with the double claw prongs. I don't want to risk another chip!

IMG_6107.jpg
lulu, do prefer your emerald cut slightly more elevated or set low?? i was going to go for practical and comfort by having it reset as low as it can go. but currently the non-culent is slightly elevated. i think it is set medium and im used to it after a year and a half of wearing it. by the way, i am perusing bullets because of you=)2 there's some variety in bullets, thats for sure!
 

lulu_ma

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Sep 9, 2020
Messages
142
lulu, do prefer your emerald cut slightly more elevated or set low?? i was going to go for practical and comfort by having it reset as low as it can go. but currently the non-culent is slightly elevated. i think it is set medium and im used to it after a year and a half of wearing it. by the way, i am perusing bullets because of you=)2 there's some variety in bullets, thats for sure!
I think my reset is considered medium. I do love being able to culet. For bullets, IMO step cut bullets would look the best and they have to be the right proportion to your stone. I’m posting the one I love again and another good example.
E42EDDDF-9B81-4C7E-AEBA-99590FF1719B.jpeg 0605353D-A34E-46D3-A6F4-AABB22A90DCC.jpeg
 

Big Fat Facets

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 7, 2019
Messages
1,446
I think my reset is considered medium. I do love being able to culet. For bullets, IMO step cut bullets would look the best and they have to be the right proportion to your stone. I’m posting the one I love again and another good example.
E42EDDDF-9B81-4C7E-AEBA-99590FF1719B.jpeg 0605353D-A34E-46D3-A6F4-AABB22A90DCC.jpeg
thank you for the images:kiss2:
yes, for sure step cut (bullet) acccents. im not keen on the "crushed ice" look. im leaning towards the elongated step cut bullets. i might need to rethink my original super low set direction. maybe better to ever so slightly lift and suspend the culet.
 
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