Calling for antique emerald cut experts - close to pulling the trigger on 4+ carat stone!

[RX1990]

I like the tab prong size and the proportion of the side stones to the center stone. However, I would ask for CADs with just the shank going back to the original (20% smaller). What was the mm of the original shank at the widest point and what was the mm of the band at the narrowest?

I am asking for the CAD model backup of the latest render I posted above (with all the measurements). Also asked her to provide me with the CAD model with measurements plus render image of the alternative version with smaller side stones.

Below is the first original CAD. Does not appear to include width at widest point of shank. Original model had with tapering to 1.8mm on palm. I had her change that to taper to 2.0mm on palm based on initial feedback here (Amy also agreed this was a good change for durability reasons).

 

[RX1990]

DKJ has access to a few types of different flavors. Like high dome vs low dome, or recut from princess that has different facet pattern.
If this matters to you - ask what your options are.


I’m glad to see that the shoulder trailing groove that @BlingDreams pointed out (so little but so important! ) has been addressed in the CAD as well. Leaving it as a hand applied item sounds nice, but didn’t pan out well in a prior attempt of mine.

This ring will be gorgeous! I love where you are taking it.

I will ask what they have lined up for the project. Mounting is going somewhere in NY for the custom French cuts once it is ready. From the few options I have seen examples of, I certainly prefer higher crown cuts. This is one item though that I don't think she has a strong opinion on and I will need to be a bit flexible given my timeline and what's readily available.

 

[BlingDreams]

Thank you for this!!! This is an incredibly helpful visual. I totally follow everything you said. I asked Amy to re-run the CAD and render with the smaller side and shank stones in the same format so I can compare the two side by side in the latest design. I think once I have that I should be able to decide and move forward with this.

I am not 100% decided either way yet. Trying to find the balance between the side stones being substantial enough to be seen/appreciated and proportionate to the center stone while also not making the overall ring too much bigger/chunkier than the inspo ring. My fear is if they are too small, they'll just look silly and get lost with such a statement center stone. If they are too large, I fear they completely change the daintiness of the mounting and make the ring look a lot bigger.

I’m glad the examples were helpful .

I understand the stress of wanting to get the side stones just right; do try to keep in mind that you are literally talking about a difference the width of maybe two eyelashes. Tenths of millimeters are barely noticeable, especially from a distance. Here are the two diamonds you’re essentially choosing between - a 1.88mm on the left and a 2.16 on the right.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I’m glad the examples were helpful .

I understand the stress of wanting to get the side stones just right; do try to keep in mind that you are literally talking about a difference the width of maybe two eyelashes. Tenths of millimeters are barely noticeable, especially from a distance. Here are the two diamonds you’re essentially choosing between - a 1.88mm on the left and a 2.16 on the right.

I was just going to say this! I think “too big” and “too small” exaggerates the difference as it really is and might exaggerate the anxiety too! Either way will be lovely. Either ring will be stunning.

Invite larger because even these “larger” side stones are very small and French cuts should be a little larger to be appreciated z

 

[RX1990]

I’m glad the examples were helpful .

I understand the stress of wanting to get the side stones just right; do try to keep in mind that you are literally talking about a difference the width of maybe two eyelashes. Tenths of millimeters are barely noticeable, especially from a distance. Here are the two diamonds you’re essentially choosing between - a 1.88mm on the left and a 2.16 on the right.

Apologies if I am missing something, but where are you getting the 1.88mm and 2.16mm measurements from based on the original CAD?

 

[BlingDreams]

Apologies if I am missing something, but where are you getting the 1.88mm and 2.16mm measurements from based on the original CAD?

[

Original is 1.8mm. Twenty percent larger is 2.16mm

 

[Dreamer_D]

I’m even more convinced that you should go with the “larger” ones! 2.16mm is tiny tiny tiny already.

 

[lovedogs]

Love where you're headed w this! The tab prongs are perfect for this--so glad you went w them versus claw/regular prongs

 

[RX1990]

So below is a render latest design with larger side stones. This hasn't changed from the prior version I posted. Second image is a render of the ring with smaller side stones. Third image is the CAD backup to the larger side stones and fourth image is the CAD backup to the smaller side stones. I asked her to resend the CAD of the larger side stones with all the measurements included (like the fourth image).

I'll follow up with some side by side render comparisons, but am starting to see what you all mean about the difference being barely noticeable.

Amy did mention that when you look at the proportions on her hand with the inspiration ring, center stone to side stones, the larger stones differ a bit (with regards to our model). I am okay with that so long as the larger stones don't completely change the overall dainty look and feel of the ring.

PS - I noted that the shoulder and triangular gap in the smaller side stone version below looks slightly different in the model. I can have her revisit that but only if I decide to go with the smaller side stone option.

Larger side stones:


Smaller side stones:


Larger side stone CAD:


Smaller side stone CAD:

 

[Lookinagain]

I still prefer the larger sides, which, again are pretty tiny anyway.

 

[newtojewels]

The difference is minor, but my first thought from the very first CAD was that the side stones were too small. Bigger will allow you to appreciate the cut more since you are splurging on French cut sides and to me it looks more harmonious as a complete ring.

 

[BlingDreams]

So below is a render latest design with larger side stones. This hasn't changed from the prior version I posted. Second image is a render of the ring with smaller side stones. Third image is the CAD backup to the larger side stones and fourth image is the CAD backup to the smaller side stones. I asked her to resend the CAD of the larger side stones with all the measurements included (like the fourth image).

I'll follow up with some side by side render comparisons, but am starting to see what you all mean about the difference being barely noticeable.

Amy did mention that when you look at the proportions on her hand with the inspiration ring, center stone to side stones, the larger stones differ a bit (with regards to our model). I am okay with that so long as the larger stones don't completely change the overall dainty look and feel of the ring.

PS - I noted that the shoulder and triangular gap in the smaller side stone version below looks slightly different in the model. I can have her revisit that but only if I decide to go with the smaller side stone option.

Larger side stones:


Smaller side stones:


Larger side stone CAD:


Smaller side stone CAD:

The ring shown in “larger side stones” is what you want. Please trust us. The tabs are now perfect, the shoulder triangle is now perfect, and the side stones are visible and complementary. I’d even be tempted to go a tad larger but I think that would throw you for a loop - lol.

 

[RX1990]

Thanks all. I did some side by side comparisons of the two this morning (and kept flipping one version of the ring on top of the other back and forth). This plus the side by side below certainly emphasized the point there is not a meaningful difference between the two. I am going to tell her let's keep the larger stone design from yesterday as is and move forward. Sorry that you all get to view some of my obsessive habits with these things!

She also confirmed the measurements on the bigger side stones only affect the top widths of the shank and shoulder. Still tapering down to 2mm (which I like) and no change to overall height.

 

[BlingDreams]

Thanks all. I did some side by side comparisons of the two this morning (and kept flipping one version of the ring on top of the other back and forth). This plus the side by side below certainly emphasized the point there is not a meaningful difference between the two. I am going to tell her let's keep the larger stone design from yesterday as is and move forward. Sorry that you all get to view some of my obsessive habits with these things!

She also confirmed the measurements on the bigger side stones only affect the top widths of the shank and shoulder. Still tapering down to 2mm (which I like) and no change to overall height.

No apologies needed! For a ring of this magnitude, every single detail is important to nail and deserves extra attention. I think it’s safe to say that we are all incredibly excited to see how this turns out!

I think it’s very touching all of the attention to detail you have given this project. I’m sure one day your soon-to-be fiancé will be shown this thread, and I can only imagine how much love it will put in her heart.

I’m curious to know a bit about you two, if you’re open to sharing. How long you have been dating, how you guys met, and so forth. You just seem like a very cool couple

 

[newtojewels]

No apologies needed! For a ring of this magnitude, every single detail is important to nail and deserves extra attention. I think it’s safe to say that we are all incredibly excited to see how this turns out!

I think it’s very touching all of the attention to detail you have given this project. I’m sure one day your soon-to-be fiancé will be shown this thread, and I can only imagine how much love it will put in her heart.

I’m curious to know a bit about you two, if you’re open to sharing. How long you have been dating, how you guys met, and so forth. You just seem like a very cool couple

This is when all of the unmarried folks among us hope that somehow this is our partner!

But really, your care and attention show throughout, like @BlingDreams says. The recipient is going to be completely blown away -- and we'll all be heartbroken if you don't post at least 30 photos from every angle when it arrives! It's really going to be a masterpiece with all of your effort.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Listen, you have found the “obsessive details” crowd of the diamond world here! We love this kind of silliness and welcome any and all exhibits of your obsessiveness that you would like to share.

I agree the different is barely noticeable BUT in person you will get slightly more broad flash from the slightly larger facets in the slightly larger frenchies and so I still agree that larger is the right choice here. It is still going to look dainty as heck especially next to that honker.

 

[RX1990]

No apologies needed! For a ring of this magnitude, every single detail is important to nail and deserves extra attention. I think it’s safe to say that we are all incredibly excited to see how this turns out!

I think it’s very touching all of the attention to detail you have given this project. I’m sure one day your soon-to-be fiancé will be shown this thread, and I can only imagine how much love it will put in her heart.

I’m curious to know a bit about you two, if you’re open to sharing. How long you have been dating, how you guys met, and so forth. You just seem like a very cool couple

Awww - thank you very much for the kind sentiments. I promise to give a little more background on us once this is all wrapped up. I don't want to say too much right now until the whole thing is done. All I will say is that I have always thought of myself as someone who appreciates good design - whether it's cars, architecture, furniture, film production, fashion, etc. That coupled with her fondness for antiques has made this whole thing an incredibly fun passion project of mine.

This is when all of the unmarried folks among us hope that somehow this is our partner!

But really, your care and attention show throughout, like @BlingDreams says. The recipient is going to be completely blown away -- and we'll all be heartbroken if you don't post at least 30 photos from every angle when it arrives! It's really going to be a masterpiece with all of your effort.

Thank you for your kind words as well! I know she would be happy with a string around her finger so long as it meant we are moving things forward, but I obviously want her to have something that is as unique and one of a kind as she is to me. This ring obviously doesn't accomplish that, but it is at least a fun and pretty way to symbolize the intent!

 

[RX1990]

Question on the French cuts. I asked Amy if high dome diamonds are available and also asked for if she has any photo examples of available options.

She sent me another video of this ring (IG post) as an example from the company she is using for the French cuts on my ring. Is there a particular style of French cut you would describe these as?

In the meantime, does anyone here have any good resources to review on different types of French cuts as side/shank stones? I have found a few old threads on this on PS, but a lot of them are older and lead to broken links that aren't very helpful. One example I found is friday_child's post #35 in this thread (link). The French cuts in the highlighted double claw prong ring of that post are very pretty.

I have read that Yoram at GemConcepts has the best but know that will take much longer than the timeline I have (I actually asked him about the process of custom cutting an antique emerald at the start of this searchfor the center stone).

Given my timeline and the size of the side stones, I am totally fine with going whatever she has lined up. I just want to make sure I know what I asking for if I specifically request the high dome stones.

 

[BlingDreams]

Question on the French cuts. I asked Amy if high dome diamonds are available and also asked for if she has any photo examples of available options.

She sent me another video of this ring (IG post) as an example from the company she is using for the French cuts on my ring. Is there a particular style of French cut you would describe these as?

In the meantime, does anyone here have any good resources to review on different types of French cuts as side/shank stones? I have found a few old threads on this on PS, but a lot of them are older and lead to broken links that aren't very helpful. One example I found is friday_child's post #35 in this thread (link). The French cuts in the highlighted double claw prong ring of that post are very pretty.

I have read that Yoram at GemConcepts has the best but know that will take much longer than the timeline I have (I actually asked him about the process of custom cutting an antique emerald at the start of this searchfor the center stone).

Given my timeline and the size of the side stones, I am totally fine with going whatever she has lined up. I just want to make sure I know what I asking for if I specifically request the high dome stones.

At this size of stones, the difference will be negligible. That being said, I actually think I would go with low dome in this case. The high dome of your center stone is spectacular, and I feel like too many high dome diamonds will take away from that. If the other stones are of a more traditional French cut diamond, the uniqueness of your center stone will stand out. At least, in my opinion.

 

[lavenderdragonfly23]

I’m team dainty tabs, hands down. This is going to be such an incredible ring! I can’t wait to see it come together!!!

 

[oncrutchesrightnow]

Does dome steepness affect light return? Not an expert but my French cut side stones occasionally have dark centers at direct viewing angles. I know nothing about low dome but maybe low dome would avoid the dark center problem? Or maybe no one else has this problem.



BTW, am glad you decided on keeping the larger side stones. There will be less metal showing in the final version of the ring.

 

[BlingDreams]

@RX1990 , so we don’t obsessively check for an update on this ring, did DK give you an estimate of when they’ll have anything to show you?

 

[madelise]

@RX1990 , so we don’t obsessively check for an update on this ring, did DK give you an estimate of when they’ll have anything to show you?

Seriously lol, I keep checking back. This ring is going to be EPIC.

 

[mrs-b]

What a diamond! @RX1990, I have a friend who has a K colored 6 ct emerald cut. The tint is both obvious and fabulous! One of the most glorious diamonds I've ever seen. But yours is just as gorgeous and the faceting on this is perfection.

I know we've moved past the diamond stage and are now talking settings - but I was late to the party! So I just wanted to say - this is going to be the ring of a lifetime. Great job - she's going ot love it!

 

[RX1990]

@RX1990 , so we don’t obsessively check for an update on this ring, did DK give you an estimate of when they’ll have anything to show you?

Seriously lol, I keep checking back. This ring is going to be EPIC.

I am going to check in with her tomorrow. I know she was casting the ring on Friday based on the larger sidestone design. I assume once that is ready, the mounting is off to NY for the custom French cuts and then they'll mail it back to LA so the local team can do all the hand finish details and mount the center stone? Will find out more tomorrow. We are 2 to 3 weeks out from the finished product. Was originally aiming for the weekend of the 27th but if they can have it done the weekend of the 20th, even better.

The one clarifying item I want to get back to them on are the French cuts. Been a busy weekend and haven't really been able to look further into good examples of differences between low dome and high dome side stones of this size. Welcome any other feedback or thoughts on that!

What a diamond! @RX1990, I have a friend who has a K colored 6 ct emerald cut. The tint is both obvious and fabulous! One of the most glorious diamonds I've ever seen. But yours is just as gorgeous and the faceting on this is perfection.

I know we've moved past the diamond stage and are now talking settings - but I was late to the party! So I just wanted to say - this is going to be the ring of a lifetime. Great job - she's going ot love it!

Thank you so much for your kind words. Never too late for some additional words of encouragement!

 

[Rfisher]

Been a busy weekend and haven't really been able to look further into good examples of differences between low dome and high dome side stones of this size. Welcome any other feedback or thoughts on that!

You can see the profile on your inspo pic, you can see the higher crowns. They extend above the setting.
On the example Amy sent you from their IG, the profile shows the lower crown. It doesn’t look like any extend above the setting.

Recut frenchies from baguettes or princesses will still show their original pavilion facet patterns, when only the material above the girdle has been refashioned.

I think with your time constraint - asking Amy if you even have any opportunity for any choices between flavors, exists.

I know I am the stick in the mud that brought this up.
It really only matters if it matters to you.
And if it’s more important than the time constraint - in the long run/big picture.

 

[BlingDreams]

I am going to check in with her tomorrow. I know she was casting the ring on Friday based on the larger sidestone design. I assume once that is ready, the mounting is off to NY for the custom French cuts and then they'll mail it back to LA so the local team can do all the hand finish details and mount the center stone? Will find out more tomorrow. We are 2 to 3 weeks out from the finished product. Was originally aiming for the weekend of the 27th but if they can have it done the weekend of the 20th, even better.

The one clarifying item I want to get back to them on are the French cuts. Been a busy weekend and haven't really been able to look further into good examples of differences between low dome and high dome side stones of this size. Welcome any other feedback or thoughts on that!



Thank you so much for your kind words. Never too late for some additional words of encouragement!

If you want to go down the rabbit’s hole, here’s an excellent article (written by Yoram) that goes into the history and options.

My opinion is that the octagonal table would be perfect for your ring; I’m not sure where it falls within the “high” and “low” discussion, but - to me - it evokes the antique feel that this ring is all about.

French Cut Diamonds - A forgotten cut with Rich history

French cut Diamonds have very unique looks and interesting history. We will review their history, cutting techniques and cut variations

gemconcepts.net

 

[Lookinagain]

I think with your time constraint - asking Amy if you even have any opportunity for any choices between flavors, exists.

I know I am the stick in the mud that brought this up.
It really only matters if it matters to you.
And if it’s more important than the time constraint - in the long run/big picture.

I agree. You're already on a very tight time frame and in the long run, I'm not sure high vs. low crown on stones that size will really make a difference. So if one takes longer to cut than the other, I'd go with the one that can be done soonest....

 

[RX1990]

You can see the profile on your inspo pic, you can see the higher crowns. They extend above the setting.
On the example Amy sent you from their IG, the profile shows the lower crown. It doesn’t look like any extend above the setting.

Recut frenchies from baguettes or princesses will still show their original pavilion facet patterns, when only the material above the girdle has been refashioned.

I think with your time constraint - asking Amy if you even have any opportunity for any choices between flavors, exists.

I know I am the stick in the mud that brought this up.
It really only matters if it matters to you.
And if it’s more important than the time constraint - in the long run/big picture.

If you want to go down the rabbit’s hole, here’s an excellent article (written by Yoram) that goes into the history and options.

My opinion is that the octagonal table would be perfect for your ring; I’m not sure where it falls within the “high” and “low” discussion, but - to me - it evokes the antique feel that this ring is all about.

French Cut Diamonds - A forgotten cut with Rich history

French cut Diamonds have very unique looks and interesting history. We will review their history, cutting techniques and cut variations

gemconcepts.net

Thanks for sharing this. I came across this page last week as part of my upfront search on this topic. Maybe we'll end up working with him as a diamond source for a French cut eternity band as a wedding ring!

I agree. You're already on a very tight time frame and in the long run, I'm not sure high vs. low crown on stones that size will really make a difference. So if one takes longer to cut than the other, I'd go with the one that can be done soonest....

Thanks. In full agreement with all the sentiments here. DK couldn't make any promises regarding the type of French cut, but Amy said she will request "as high dome antique style" as possible and send over all the inspiration photos.

I am going to email DK this morning just to clarify with them that time is the priority here and I don't want to create any kind of additional delays to source different type of French cut stones. I am also resending this specific photo of the inspiration ring as I think the side profile is a very helpful visual for the side and shank stones.

 

[Dreamer_D]

At this size most of those finer nuances will only be evident in macro photos or when viewed through a loupe. And it will take more time to source antiques. So I think whatever you end up with will provide the look and feel you want, even if they are not technically technically identical to the inspo.

Of course, maybe you plan to enjoy macro photos of your ring in the future like many of us weirdos!