Bezel solitaire reset...again?

[Cerulean]

Hello venerable PSers.

I finally confessed to my fiance last night that I have thought about resetting my engagement ring - AGAIN. I am not even married yet - what is wrong with me? TBH I feel totally obsessive and picky, as the women in my family have already alluded that I should be grateful that I have a "big diamond" and a nice guy and have graced me with some snide remarks...let's just say, they don't quite understand how particular I am, at all. It's a vintage MRB, average cut, 2ct M-colored SI1 - it ain't all THAT fancy. But I love it so that's what matters and I am not certain it has found its forever home, so to speak.

Anyways. I am feeling self conscious about my desire to do this. We have the funds (especially since our September wedding is likely going to be cancelled)...ugh

I reset my stone months ago after I realized I hated prongs - and missed other things about this design that I didn't really realize

Things I don't like:

1. The shank is too thin - I now have a new appreciation for the threads talking about too-thin shanks / bands - mine is 2mm, and it just doesn't look / feel substantial enough. The other catch is, I would like a matching wedding band, I bought one in sterling to try it out. When I put it on and see them together - the band doesn't feel special - feels like a boring stacking ring, never something I could wear solo - I also have big hands so feeling like not enough finger coverage​

2. A matching band won't sit flush - I wanted low set, and I want a matching band that sits flush - I didn't even realize I prefer flush until I tried on bands with my e-ring - it's tacitly what I have envisioned in my head. When I have a band, it sorta sits at an angle, leaves a gap, and I am also worried that over time it will rub against the basket and be damaged. I attached photos - forgive my swollen finger - I cut the tip of my finger very badly and it is still on the mend....​

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3. The basket...catches water? It is super annoying - half of the time when I wash my hands - which is a lot (i am fastidious) the basket holds water - even if I intentionally rub it with a towel / paper towel, I have to blow it out or it gets my finger wet as it seeps out - super weird and kind of drives me nuts - I think a more open, less intricate basket is a better fit for me. I feel like I can't get this clean enough w/out an ultrasonic and although it is pretty....it's bothering me​

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4. I am not sure what the term is - I think pipe-style shank with the hard edge is not my preference - something smoother or rounder might feel more comfortable. However this is very minor​

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Things I love:

1. The unplated, 14k white gold! perfectly compliments my M-colored diamond​

2. The bezel set! WAY better than prongs and I will never have a prong-set ring again​

3. The simplicity - I love the simple style, plain shank, and would like a plain and unadorned wedding band to match - it feels timeless to me​

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I have been looking at other plain bezel settings - Sholdt really caught my eye. I love how clean and minimal the designs are - and some chunkier styles seem to be in stock. I was looking at R596-1 & R...I kind of like the look of the semi-bezel but think I should stick to full bezel.

I don't want TOO chunky, I am thinking approx 2.5mm, no more than 3mm? Does anyone have photos are other inspo / recommendations that come to mind? Should I bite the bullet and reset now while it is on my mind?

Thanks for bearing with me.

Hope everyone is staying safe and healthy out there....

 

[pearaffair]

Love your rock!

do you want to post some pics of designs you’re drawn to?

 

[Cerulean]

Absolutely! I was having a really hard time finding a full set...some of these shanks may be a little thin too..

I LOVE @GemFever's set here:

https://www.pricescope.com/communit...c-in-a-platinum-bgd-bezel-solitaire-o.195651/

Other inspo:






@fuz's lovely Tifany's solitaire here...

 

[Cerulean]

Oooh! I LOVE this one...

https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/Engagement-Rings/solitaires/full-bezel-solitaire-5365

I am not sure if BG would allow me to use my own diamond? I know some jewelers only set diamonds they supply?

 

[evergreen]

I have a huge "thing" for open-gallery platform rings, particularly bezeled with a split shank. They are SO easy to clean. A split shank might make your shank look a little more substantial (the Pt ring is a shallow 1.3ct tranny with a 2.5mm shank), and a platform style should allow a WB to sit flush. These 3 are tranny/Pt/local jeweler, grey spinel/14kRG/Stuller, and emerald/18kRG/David Klass, size 6-6.5.



FYI -- I asked DK to set the emerald diamond "as low as possible" -- he set it so low I literally couldn't slide a sheet of paper between the culet and the shank, and it caught water there which totally messed up the appearance of the stone until it dried (and drove me nuts), so he remade it set sliiiightly higher, which was 100% unbelievably nice of him. So "as low as possible" might not be a good idea, heh.

 

[Cerulean]

I have a huge "thing" for open-gallery platform rings, particularly bezeled with a split shank. They are SO easy to clean. A split shank might make your shank look a little more substantial (the Pt ring is a shallow 1.3ct tranny with a 2.5mm shank), and a platform style should allow a WB to sit flush. These 3 are tranny/Pt/local jeweler, grey spinel/14kRG/Stuller, and emerald/18kRG/David Klass, size 6-6.5.



FYI -- I asked DK to set the emerald diamond "as low as possible" -- he set it so low I literally couldn't slide a sheet of paper between the culet and the shank, and it caught water there which totally messed up the appearance of the stone until it dried (and drove me nuts), so he remade it set sliiiightly higher, which was 100% unbelievably nice of him. So "as low as possible" might not be a good idea, heh.

LOL DK took you seriously...that is wild!!! That would have TOTALLY vexed me too....so funny though, I have to admit.I appreciate his interest in satisfying the demand for LOW

I also LOVE your rings - those open galleries are making my heart flutter, and also satiating my inner OCD - I clean my rings all of the time and it PAINS me that I can't get in there right now....

I really like all 3 so much - the emerald is also right up my alley. I hadn't thought about a split shank at all, actually. But they look really great. Do your bands ever rub against the diamond underneath? I have wondered about that with a totally open gallery like that, but I love the look of it.

So far.....these two are my fave:

1. Brian Gavin - I wouldn't change a thing about this one:​

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https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/Engagement-Rings/solitaires/full-bezel-solitaire-5365​

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2. Sholdt - with customizations (I reached out to them directly but these are the best photos of their setting - the side view is super cool - unique design - but the shank is too thin and the edges on the shank are too prominent / sharp - I am not even sure how to describe it? I reached out for a rough quote as there are no prices on their site​

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https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/Engagement-Rings/solitaires/lola-5341​

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[rainydaze]

1. Brian Gavin - I wouldn't change a thing about this one:​

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https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/Engagement-Rings/solitaires/full-bezel-solitaire-5365​

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I think you have your answer right here! Yes, BG does set outside stones. Here's a screenshot from their FAQ page:

 

[Slickk]

@annagene12 If I may chime in, especially as a lover of bezels of all kinds. The open gallery bezel could be problematic depending on what rings you wear with it. I have one, and in all honesty, I scratched the pavilion of my stone with a diamond band sitting next to it. Eek! I know! The Sholdt is a fave of mine personally. And Klass has made me some really pretty bezels as well. I always close the gallery now though... I hope you find your dream ring!

 

[Cerulean]

@annagene12 If I may chime in, especially as a lover of bezels of all kinds. The open gallery bezel could be problematic depending on what rings you wear with it. I have one, and in all honesty, I scratched the pavilion of my stone with a diamond band sitting next to it. Eek! I know! The Sholdt is a fave of mine personally. And Klass has made me some really pretty bezels as well. I always close the gallery now though... I hope you find your dream ring!

Omg I’m so sorry to hear that! I’m paranoid about it - but I’d just plan on wearing a metal band...I wonder if I could damage that too?

do you think the Sholdt style would be more “protective” or it wouldn’t really make a difference? it seems less open in a sense but I have no idea..

 

[Cerulean]

I think you have your answer right here! Yes, BG does set outside stones. Here's a screenshot from their FAQ page:

Ahh thank you! I will submit a form to contact them - I didn’t see an email address readily on their site

 

[hobbitfancier55]

You might be interested in this AV setting as well. It’s shown with a cushion, but I’m sure he could do a round.

The Sonora Bezel

Sonora and I sat down to create this sleek clean design, carefully crafted bezel setting designed to really hold any shape you like. It features a 1.5mm slightly rounded bezel with 2mm rounded shank on the bottom and sides graduating up to a flat/rounded cathedral which seats the center stone...

www.distinctivegem.com

 

[Cerulean]

You might be interested in this AV setting as well. It’s shown with a cushion, but I’m sure he could do a round.

The Sonora Bezel

Sonora and I sat down to create this sleek clean design, carefully crafted bezel setting designed to really hold any shape you like. It features a 1.5mm slightly rounded bezel with 2mm rounded shank on the bottom and sides graduating up to a flat/rounded cathedral which seats the center stone...

www.distinctivegem.com

I love it! Thank you!!

I may want it to have more "heft" - if I don't hear back from Brian Gavin soon I will add this to my list...

 

[GliderPoss]

I think you are obsessing but as a PSer I totally get it.... The gap where the band doesn't sit flush would annoy me too. Note a thicker band may also make the diamond look smaller by comparison...

 

[Slickk]

@annagene12 i have often considered the Sholdt. It’s gorgeous. I have hesitated because of the vulnerable (IMO) open N/S ends. And it is costly.
The above Distinctive Gem bezel has that open gallery I worry about. If you’re only going to wear a plain band it should be ok. But if you plan on adding a diamond ring, I’d be wary.
Have you considered David Klass? He has made me quite a few bezels. You can get exactly what you want. I’m actually using him now for a bezel ring.

 

[evergreen]

I really like all 3 so much - the emerald is also right up my alley. I hadn't thought about a split shank at all, actually. But they look really great. Do your bands ever rub against the diamond underneath? I have wondered about that with a totally open gallery like that, but I love the look of it.

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The split shank helps with that! It still looks like the band is flush, but holds it slightly away from the pavilion. Sorry for the grubby nails -- was gardening today! -- but:



See how the pavilion is never close to the band, and yet the top-down view is still quite cohesive (except for the 14k band vs the 18k emerald solitaire not exactly matching, haha)? You can't see any pavilion on the east-west profile views because the split shank covers it, thus it's protected.

 

[BMI]

@annagene12 I have a custom setting that is very similar to the Sholdt Lola. I have worn it with numerous different metal bands for over three years and none have been problematic. I do not have any diamond bands, but I am pretty sure a low profile diamond band would be safe with it as well.

The only issue I have with this ring is that I occasionally catch the bezel (NS) on something (maybe two or three times a year) from the underneath side and it jerks my hand. Any of the open gallery bezels have the possibility of doing that. Your closed gallery prevents that from happening. And I suspect that @evergreen's split shanks probably help minimize the likelihood as well.

Here are some photos of my ring. I included a few with different bands.

 

[Cerulean]

I think the Distinctive Gems / brian gavin style with the TOTALLY open gallery seems a bit more vulnerable than the Sholdt Lola - but maybe I don't know what I am talking about?

It seems there are give and takes no matter what, and no setting is foolproof - i guess it is more a matter of what I am / am not willing to live with - either aesthetically, or functionally.

Admittedly, I love split shanks on other people's rings - but it wasn't what I imagined for my own ring.

I don't imagine myself wearing many diamond bands over the years- I like channel set, if anything, which I wonder might prevent diamond-to-diamond contact? For the foreseeable future, I will have a plan band.

I also saw the Sholdt R379-523 - attached some more glamour shots below....it appears much wider towards the bezel, so wonder if it might offer a bit more protection....it might be a bit more chunky than I desire towards the bezel - but maybe I could have Sholdt customize something that meets between this and Lola as a compromise

 

[Cerulean]

@annagene12 I have a custom setting that is very similar to the Sholdt Lola. I have worn it with numerous different metal bands for over three years and none have been problematic. I do not have any diamond bands, but I am pretty sure a low profile diamond band would be safe with it as well.

The only issue I have with this ring is that I occasionally catch the bezel (NS) on something (maybe two or three times a year) from the underneath side and it jerks my hand. Any of the open gallery bezels have the possibility of doing that. Your closed gallery prevents that from happening. And I suspect that @evergreen's split shanks probably help minimize the likelihood as well.

Here are some photos of my ring. I included a few with different bands.

I love your ring...thanks so much for the photos / tips - the rose gold really suits your stone too!

 

[Cerulean]

The split shank helps with that! It still looks like the band is flush, but holds it slightly away from the pavilion. Sorry for the grubby nails -- was gardening today! -- but:



See how the pavilion is never close to the band, and yet the top-down view is still quite cohesive (except for the 14k band vs the 18k emerald solitaire not exactly matching, haha)? You can't see any pavilion on the east-west profile views because the split shank covers it, thus it's protected.

Yes I see what you mean...split shank definitely holds bands away a bit....I love the look on you - not sure if it is what I want for this setting...hmmm decisions decisions

 

[AV_]

I trust Tiffany with having made a floating bezel very well. This is the only thing I wanted to try out from them.

 

[bling_dream19]

I think you are obsessing but as a PSer I totally get it.... The gap where the band doesn't sit flush would annoy me too. Note a thicker band may also make the diamond look smaller by comparison...

Me too. I love a flush fitting band.

 

[Cerulean]

So - definitely decided on either the Sholdt Lola or Brian Gavin full bezel solitaire....

I have weighed the pros and cons of the open gallery, and think I would rather sacrifice a bit of security for a ring I can keep clean to satisfy my inner OCD demon.

Now, I can not, for the life of me, pick which setting.

Aesthetically, the Brian Gavin one appeals to me a bit more. I also wouldn't customize it at all - except maybe to add milgrain, on the fence about that...might keep plain as I can always add later

The Sholdt seems to me a bit more protective of the diamond as it is "less open" and really only exposes the NS sides of the stone - I would have to customize it to suit my needs (eg thicker shank, prob 2.6mm) - but nothing too radical. It feels safer...I also want to commission Sholdt to set a sapphire I have en route to me sometime later this year...

I am waiting on final price quotes for each, with a custom fit wedding band. Maybe that is the deciding factor? This is hard - I feel pressure to get it right this time!

 

[AV_]

The two settings seem identical in any practical sense.

 

[Cerulean]

The two settings seem identical in any practical sense.

That is helpful...I just have it in my head that the Sholdt somehow offers more protection because it has...more metal??

 

[AV_]

I am thinking of what it takes to hit the diamond where it is exposed & there are exactly the same options for both settings - all hilareously unlikely!

 

[Cerulean]

I am thinking of what it takes to hit the diamond where it is exposed & there are exactly the same options for both settings - all hilareously unlikely!

Maybe letting my imagination get the best of me, then

Appreciate the sanity check..haha

 

[Cerulean]

The split shank helps with that! It still looks like the band is flush, but holds it slightly away from the pavilion. Sorry for the grubby nails -- was gardening today! -- but:



See how the pavilion is never close to the band, and yet the top-down view is still quite cohesive (except for the 14k band vs the 18k emerald solitaire not exactly matching, haha)? You can't see any pavilion on the east-west profile views because the split shank covers it, thus it's protected.

Now that I am looking at your settings - do any of them widen towards the bottom of the shank to provide a counterweight?

Do you ever have issues with spinning? That is one thing that my current ring does, it spins, but my fingers swell with heat so the size is what it is...wondered if it was because of the thin band...

 

[Cerulean]

Well - I went with Sholdt. The more I looked at the BG setting - the more nekkid it looked (LOL). So I am getting the Lola, with a wider shank and slightly rounder outside profile. Maybe with a wider shank - my diamond's undercarriage will still be exposed but will have a shred more modesty?

I had such nice interactions with them too, and they referred me to a local retailer where I could see the Lola! They were awesome and are dealing with Sholdt directly now so I don't have to bother with shipping or anything like that. I was really relieved to have been able to see something in person.

I also found out I prefer the 3mm band over 2.5mm like the BG setting.

So - pulling the trigger on the new setting, matching flush band, and matching band for my future husband! Soooooo excited! It sure wasn't cheap - no question that the price of gold didn't help. He asked me to promise that I wouldn't ask to reset for at least a year. I said....try 10 yrs. HAH! He's a sweetheart.

I will be getting CADs soon so will definitely share! Thanks to everyone for your help!

 

[evergreen]

Now that I am looking at your settings - do any of them widen towards the bottom of the shank to provide a counterweight?

Do you ever have issues with spinning? That is one thing that my current ring does, it spins, but my fingers swell with heat so the size is what it is...wondered if it was because of the thin band...

I see you chose your setting already -- congratulations!! But to belatedly answer your question, I've never had my rings spin because they're sized just right. In the cold (really cold!) they sometimes jangle together and spin a little, but I'm lucky to love somewhere that's between 55 and 70 degrees year round, haha, so I very seldom have that happen. Weights never made sense to me since my hands are at all angles, all the time! A thin band will feel bigger than a thicker band, even though the ring size is technically the same, so you may notice your new setting feels tighter than the old even if you stuck with the same size! Adding a wedding band will further make the stack fit tighter, which could also help both rings not spin. Keep us posted on your new setting, and congrats on figuring out what would make your heart sing!!

 

[liaerfbv]

I LOVE that Sholdt setting! I also used to have a closed gallery bezel and I know exactly what you mean about holding water. I would shake my hand 20 min later and a water droplet would fly out, so annoying.