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Bezel Emerald Engagement Ring - Requesting assistance

P

pappyb

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 16, 2012
Messages
4
Hello everyone, I've bene a lurker for some time but it was time to join in the discussions and ask the PriceScope community for any help that you might be able to provide.

I have been researching for about 6 months on an engagement ring for my long time gf and finally settled on what I think is a beautiful 1.10 carat Zambian Emerald (Emerald cut). I'm including the suppliers photo. I have not received the stone yet as it is being graded by EGL but I hope to have it the week of April 23rd.

Despite many users here advising against an emerald as an engagement ring (my gf really loves emeralds) I decided to go for it anyway.

First, I must thank user Lukasz for his story and experience. His experience heavily influenced my decision to go with Sam at AZEmerald.com. I'm also working with a couple of jewelers for the setting.

Which brings me to my fork in the road. Although I love solitaire settings I have decided to go with a bezel setting to protect the emerald. The problem is I am having a hard time deciding which bezel emerald cut would look best. I'm currently reviewing the 'Show me your bling thread as well as the bezel thread and perhaps my male brain is fightning me here but I can't seem to find the right one for me.

So a couple questions:

1) Has anyone here had a jeweler make a colored stone with an emerald cut in a bezel ring? (a bit of a long shot I fear)
2) What would be your preference in a bezel setting for an Emerald?


I greatly appreciate any feedback anyone has to offer. I will be posting regardless of the final selection here to get everyones feel on the final product.

I don't know what to select! :oops: :confused:


Thank you

1.10_carat_zambian.jpg
 
If that vendor photo is true to life, then that is quite a beautiful emerald!

I can imagine why many would argue against emerald in an e-ring. Emerald can be brittle, and, though harder than quartz, it's not the hardest stone (7.5 - 8.0) - so if worn on the hand every day, I suspect it will eventually show the wear.

I can't quite find a selling example for a bezel set emerald cut stone (Kismet's is like a miniature oriental temple - impressive, but perhaps too ornate for an e-ring) - but that is not to dismiss the idea. You might want to consider setting it with small diamonds for effect (if it's within your budget). Like this pretty little thing:

http://famousdiamonds.tripod.com/chalkemeraldring.html
 
Thank you for providing those new links. They're new ones to me. That's a beautiful emerald in the extreme thread.

I"m attaching a new photo. This one next to a penny.

1.10 ct with penny2.JPG
 
The one I'm attaching below is another emerald I was frankly obsessing over but couldn't look past the surface fissure. I admit it is nicer than the one I ultimately selected. It was twice the price however (and twice the size). Very beautiful in any case.

2_05%20ct%20Zambian%20on%20hand.jpg
 
Still beautiful. Is the one with the penny another vendor photo? Also, another question: Do you know if the emerald is treated? Many emeralds have tiny cracks and are treated with oils or resins to improve clarity. It's considered acceptable, so long as the treatment doesn't "help" the colour (ideally, though, a seller must disclose any treatment). The treatment may dry out over the course of many years, after which the stone must be retreated. I don't know if the emerald needs to be removed from the setting to be retreated, but that would pose an argument for prongs instead of bezel, perhaps. Anyone better informed than me have any insights?
 
Kim makes a very very good point. Please make sure you have a lab report that indicates any treatments that may have been applied. When buying Emeralds, especially if you haven't had any prior experience with a vendor, it is essential. Even if you have referrals we have a saying that is "trust but verify". I don't know what country you're in but AGL is most often used.

Next, please make sure that you assess the skill of the benchperson who will set your Emerald ESPECIALLY if you're going with a bezel. Softer, less durable, gemstones don't typically like being bezel set because of the pressure one has to apply during the setting process. Even the most experienced lapidaries have misshaps so it's best to go with somebody recommended who has a past history of setting coloured gemstones and understands their fragility.

I'm attaching a photo of one of my Emerald rings. It's not a good Emerald as you can see and in fact it's the runt of my litter but it has a semi bezel that I thought you might like to see. It sits quite low on the finger so although it appears that the ends of exposed, the finger does protect it somewhat.

In terms of other designs, have you thought about other settings that may be just as protective? Side stones can add protection (depending on the style). My best Emerald ring is an Emerald cut but with two round cut old diamonds on either side. I'm sure people are sick of me saying but it's over 100 years old and my Mother wore it nearly every day and apart from a tiny nick to the girdle it's unscathed!

Emerald in yellow gold.jpg
 
Check out some van craeynest settings or single stone settings. It's a beautiful stone!
 
LD|1334272641|3169670 said:
It's not a good Emerald as you can see and in fact it's the runt of my litter
Click to expand...

Aww, I've always had such a soft spots for any runt of the litter... 8)
 
What is the name of the woman metalsmith that does such good bezels? I remember it something like June Taylor but I know it was three names. By now, don't you think she has an example of a bezel set emerald cut?
 
minousbijoux|1334273736|3169690 said:
What is the name of the woman metalsmith that does such good bezels? I remember it something like June Taylor but I know it was three names. By now, don't you think she has an example of a bezel set emerald cut?
Click to expand...

I think I'm just about to be shot down in flames by some but I think you mean Julia Kay Taylor? I obviously don't want to link to examples just in case they are owned by PSers but, ahem, I've seen some less than perfect bezels made by her ....................... runs off and hides before the barrage starts!
 
I would never ever ever bezel an emerald. A bezel can disrupt the filled fractures, especially if they're filled with resin. It puts too much pressure on the stone, and if you knock it the wrong way, then you might dislodge the resin. I know it once happened with a high profile case where the owner knocked her hand on the counter, and exposed a huge fracture that was filled with resin. She sued the jeweler as she was unaware of the treatment. I think with LD's ring, it's only bezeled on the sides, and therefore, there's more leeway if she knocks the stone. Also, if it's an oiled stone, it may need to be reoiled every few years, and you can't maintain that in a bezel setting (it needs to be removed from the setting). It's also a small stone, and if you do bezel it, some of the crown will be covered by the bezel making the stone appear smaller.

BTW, just curious, but does EGL state the amount and type of treatment?
 
LD|1334273906|3169695 said:
minousbijoux|1334273736|3169690 said:
What is the name of the woman metalsmith that does such good bezels? I remember it something like June Taylor but I know it was three names. By now, don't you think she has an example of a bezel set emerald cut?
Click to expand...

I think I'm just about to be shot down in flames by some but I think you mean Julia Kay Taylor? I obviously don't want to link to examples just in case they are owned by PSers but, ahem, I've seen some less than perfect bezels made by her ....................... runs off and hides before the barrage starts!
Click to expand...

Hey, what do I know? =) I'm just throwing names out of those I know that bezel in hopes that the OP can find a good example. What if the OP did a version of Colorluvr's gorgeous aquamarine but bezel set?

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/9-1ct-natural-unheated-aquamarine-in-18k-wg-setting.161539/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/9-1ct-natural-unheated-aquamarine-in-18k-wg-setting.161539/[/URL]

Oh, but now that I look at it again, I realize the side stones are too small for protection (but he could make them proportionately bigger) and the prongs are what makes it such a beautiful ring. Sigh. Just a phenomenal piece of architecture! But if he double pronged this one and had baguettes on the sides, wouldn't it be pretty well protected? Or is it just too small for double prongs?
 
minousbijoux|1334274479|3169703 said:
LD|1334273906|3169695 said:
minousbijoux|1334273736|3169690 said:
What is the name of the woman metalsmith that does such good bezels? I remember it something like June Taylor but I know it was three names. By now, don't you think she has an example of a bezel set emerald cut?
Click to expand...

I think I'm just about to be shot down in flames by some but I think you mean Julia Kay Taylor? I obviously don't want to link to examples just in case they are owned by PSers but, ahem, I've seen some less than perfect bezels made by her ....................... runs off and hides before the barrage starts!
Click to expand...

Hey, what do I know? =) I'm just throwing names out of those I know that bezel in hopes that the OP can find a good example. What if the OP did a version of Colorluvr's gorgeous aquamarine but bezel set?

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/9-1ct-natural-unheated-aquamarine-in-18k-wg-setting.161539/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/9-1ct-natural-unheated-aquamarine-in-18k-wg-setting.161539/[/URL]

Oh, but now that I look at it again, I realize the side stones are too small for protection (but he could make them proportionately bigger) and the prongs are what makes it such a beautiful ring. Sigh. Just a phenomenal piece of architecture! But if he double pronged this one and had baguettes on the sides, wouldn't it be pretty well protected? Or is it just too small for double prongs?
Click to expand...


NOW you're talking! I adore that setting it's so Art Deco. Really beautiful. Like you said, probably not enough protection unless you do something innovative with the basket - and there's no reason why you couldn't. I don't think it's too small for double prongs BUT again, think about protection. Double prongs offer less protection and are more prone to lifting up and getting caught on stuff. My jeweller absolutely refuses to do them and calls them a "fancy fad that doesn't make sense"!!!!!
 
I'm pleasantly overwhelmed with everyones generous contributions! Thank you all for your help.


FrekeChild , Kim Bruun and tammy77 thank you for the links you provided.

So it appears that the bezel style is surely out the window. I'm actually quite open on the setting and bezel was something I was more resorting to as opposed to my first choice.

The comments regarding the cleaning are also a big concern (again leaves out the bezel style/setting).


minousbijoux, the aquamarine ring in that link is absolutely gorgeous!

I was originally looking at a 3 stone setting but was a little thrown off by the talk around of that being for an anniversary. Though I could justify it (lol we've been together for some time) I decided to initially go another route.

I was mistaken on the grading report. The grading report is being performed by AGL and from my research seems to provide a specialty in the colored stones department? I found the link below which was a great story. Incredible Sapphire. This makes me feel better about it not being GIA. The grading report has an entire section on enhancements. Link to sample grading report.
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/agl-grading-for-6-2ct-blue-sapphire.173181/


Anyone have any experience from AGL?

Edit: Found that this AGL is the one on 580 Fifth ave. which by the post below appears to have a good reputation.

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/agl-certification.157604/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/agl-certification.157604/[/URL]

LongSample1.jpg
 
pappyb|1334279395|3169783 said:
Anyone have any experience from AGL?

Edit: Found that this AGL is the one on 580 Fifth ave. which by the post below appears to have a good reputation.

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/agl-certification.157604/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/agl-certification.157604/[/URL]
Click to expand...

AGL, the place you linked to above, has one of the premier reputations for colored stone reports in the world, and I would certainly go with them for an emerald before any other lab report out there. They even recently discovered irradiation in emeralds that the GIA lab did not (same irradiated emerald went through GIA without discovery of the treatment). They're very thorough.

Your jeweler should also be careful, as I would probably set it in 18K yellow gold to be on the safe side. Harder metals like platinum, and even 14K can jar the resin and/or chip the stone. Only the best of the best jewelers should set an emerald.
 
Does the OP know the level of treatment the stone has had? You would likely have more options if the stone had less invasive treatment such as oil only.
 
I think your stone is a very pretty color by the way. I vote more pictures! :bigsmile:
 
AGL is a highly reputable lab that is the most often recommended lab for coloured gemstones in the US.

Your emerald is very beautiful! I can see it in high karat yellow gold. If well protected (looks very clean if it is only oiled) and worn with care, is an excellent e-ring stone.
 
LD said:
minousbijoux|1334273736|3169690 said:
What is the name of the woman metalsmith that does such good bezels? I remember it something like June Taylor but I know it was three names. By now, don't you think she has an example of a bezel set emerald cut?
Click to expand...

I think I'm just about to be shot down in flames by some but I think you mean Julia Kay Taylor? I obviously don't want to link to examples just in case they are owned by PSers but, ahem, I've seen some less than perfect bezels made by her ....................... runs off and hides before the barrage starts!
Click to expand...

I have a colored stone bezeled by Julia Kay Taylor and have seen some very nice pieces from her but LD is right, there have definitely been a few less-than-perfect bezels done by here that have been posted on here... Anyways, here's mine for reference. I don't know if mine is one of the less-than-perfect ones but I love it so its ok with me if it is :bigsmile:
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/gary-braun-asscher-peridot-in-a-jkt-double-bezel.166227/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/gary-braun-asscher-peridot-in-a-jkt-double-bezel.166227/[/URL]

Your emerald is stunning by the way!

ETA: Nevermind, I just saw that you're no longer planning to bezel it... I guess I should read the whole thread before posting!
 
Have you thought about having it channel set? My husband's emerald is done that way and it's been fine for his wedding ring now for over 12 years.

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/shades-of-green.136033/page-4#post-2441127#p2441127']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/shades-of-green.136033/page-4#post-2441127#p2441127[/URL] There's a picture of it, in the shades of green post from way back. Of course, his is not near as nice as yours, but we've had no problems with the emerald or the setting.
 
I would look at 22kt yellow gold for the setting.

Very pretty stone.
 
I think that stone would look good wrapped in brown paper, its so pretty! But that aside, I agree high karat gold will make it look really rich and elegant.
 
Here's another vendor that I haven't seen mentioned yet, I think her bezel work is stunning and she's been used a few times on here. I do NOT have personal experience with her (she doesn't work in palladium, which was the metal I wanted for my engagement ring).

http://www.etsy.com/shop/JanishJewels?ref=seller_info

I don't know if she's comfortable with emeralds or not, but I think she would be honest if asked.

I don't have any experience with emeralds, but I think the one you have chosen is absolutely lovely, and I hope the report comes back with minimal treatment!
 
beautiful sapphire. have you decided what sort of setting you want if not a bezel?
 
I think the OP said that he doesn't expect the emerald back from AGL for another week, so maybe he's waiting to have it in hand...
 
Arkteia|1334904012|3175943 said:
I remember Kismet had her emerald bezel-set by Marc Sarosi's jewelers and came up with a beautiful ring... I do not know their prices, but the ring was to die for.

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/extreme-makeover-emerald-edition.158547/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/extreme-makeover-emerald-edition.158547/[/URL]

There was another thread, with several rings, and a beautiful emerald cross, all bezeled. I wish I could remember its name...
Click to expand...

It was actually done by Andrew Sarosi and it was pretty reasonable for a handmade, 18k gold setting... under 3k.
 
Sorry, Andrew Sarosi, of course. The ring is absolutely gorgeous, and a good example of a bezeled emerald.
 
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