Best custom ring designer?

[kay1]

Hi!

So i want to design a custom ring, and have seen sites like Steven Kirsch etc. But who is the 'best'? I know best is subjective, so let me ask some more direct questions:

1) Who is the most well known - the 'gucci' of bespoke ring makers?

2) Who makes the best rings?

3) Who is the most accessible - in terms of flexibility, price (not 10's of thousands)?

4) If money was no object who would you use? (and i don't mean debeers, cartier etc)

5) If you wanted _value_ - i don't mean cheap, but you pay good money but you get proportionate work back, and not _only_ paying for the name?

I want something that i've spent time on putting together, and I want an amazing diamond (i've found a few), but I also want something unique and amazing that she can feel this is a 'cartier' kind of effect. I guess i want the middle ground between Cartier/Debeers/Tiffany and BlueNile/BrianGavin etc. I'm willing to spend the money, i just don't want to throw it away at debeers etc on a substandard (small) diamond that I could do a lot better with. And I also don't want her to think i just threw money at it, and instead that i put thought and effort into it.

Help :/ I have 4 to 6 weeks left - so i really need to get in with a good designer asap, and even then i'd need a rush job!

 

[soxfan]

My vote is Victor Canera. And many people here will tell you that his work, along with Steven and Leon, is just as good or better than Tiffany.

 

[kay1]

My vote is Victor Canera. And many people here will tell you that his work, along with Steven and Leon, is just as good or better than Tiffany.

Thanks That's exactly what i'm thinking, get a great designer with great work and get the diamond I want rather than pay inflated prices for a small and sub-par diamond from tiffany etc.

Any other recommendations

 

[Acinom]

Another vote for Victor, Steven and Leon. You will be able to source a diamond through them as well. I think in generall the leadtime with Victor is faster then with Leon but if you contact them for a quote you could tell them that you need to make it work within a specific timeframe and whether that is feasible.

Soxfan and I both have rings from Victor and he is great to work with. To meet your deadline it will help if you determine first what your specifications are in terms of diamond size for example. Do you have a specific setting design in mind and a maximum budget? And: what design does your girlfriend prefer? You could then check whether there are specific designs by Victor, Steven and Leon that resemble her dream ring.

 

[kay1]

Thanks, I just sent an email to Leon, and am about to send one to Steven.

I've found my ideal stone at bluenile - 2.5 ct / J / VVS2 (HCA 1. - $21,499:

http://www.bluenile.com/round-diamond-2-carat-ideal-cut-j-color-vvs2-clarity_LD04187168?keyword_search_value=LD04187168

It's a great price and I can't find anyone else that has anything close. Because of the J colour i'm considering rings such as this:

http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/the-evelyn-solitaire-with-flush-stems
http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/pave-four-prong-solitaire
http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/the-trueste-with-pave

They are special order, but I assume easier/faster to make than a totally custom one. I could tweak the design when I speak to them. I've asked them if they can source the stone, but if they can't i'm unsure how to do this. I'm in the UK.

If I ship myself the diamond I pay 20% VAT (tax).
When they ship the entire ring to me i pay 20% VAT and 2.5% duty. I'm willing to accept the extra 2.5% to get this design.

So i'm thinking to get BN to ship the diamond direct to them, they can then make the ring and ship to me. But when BN ships to them won't I be liable for US sales tax?

I really don't want to be taxed twice!

 

[SMC]

Thanks, I just sent an email to Leon, and am about to send one to Steven.

I've found my ideal stone at bluenile - 2.5 ct / J / VVS2 (HCA 1. - $21,499:

http://www.bluenile.com/round-diamond-2-carat-ideal-cut-j-color-vvs2-clarity_LD04187168?keyword_search_value=LD04187168

It's a great price and I can't find anyone else that has anything close. Because of the J colour i'm considering rings such as this:

http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/the-evelyn-solitaire-with-flush-stems
http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/pave-four-prong-solitaire
http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/the-trueste-with-pave

They are special order, but I assume easier/faster to make than a totally custom one. I could tweak the design when I speak to them. I've asked them if they can source the stone, but if they can't i'm unsure how to do this. I'm in the UK.

If I ship myself the diamond I pay 20% VAT (tax).
When they ship the entire ring to me i pay 20% VAT and 2.5% duty. I'm willing to accept the extra 2.5% to get this design.

So i'm thinking to get BN to ship the diamond direct to them, they can then make the ring and ship to me. But when BN ships to them won't I be liable for US sales tax?

I really don't want to be taxed twice!

You won't get US sales tax added onto your BN order unless you're shipping to a Washington state address. BN only charges sales tax within WA (where they are located). I believe Victor is in California.

 

[kay1]

Oh I see. So if i get BN US to ship to victor, there's no extra tax? I don't understand because here everything gets taxed when sold, so surely there's some kind of tax to pay, because from BN's point of view isn't it just a US to US sale? Or because i'm paying from the UK they won't charge me tax?

 

[soxfan]

Did you email Victor? Those rings you posted were his....

 

[SMC]

Oh I see. So if i get BN US to ship to victor, there's no extra tax? I don't understand because here everything gets taxed when sold, so surely there's some kind of tax to pay, because from BN's point of view isn't it just a US to US sale? Or because i'm paying from the UK they won't charge me tax?

No, in the US you only get charged state sales tax. There's no country sales tax. If you are shipping to a Washington state address, you will get charged sales tax, otherwise there is no tax.

The onus is on the consumer to pay sales tax on online purchases when it comes time to file taxes. How much of that actually gets reported though, is anyone's guess. It's a huge loophole right now, there are laws coming up that will make internet sellers charge applicable state sales taxes when shipping out of state, but none of those have been passed yet.

 

[yssie]

You are asking a self-selecting population a very loaded question: expect biased responses. I really dislike when people tout one vendor as the Lord of the Ring - who is "best" depends entirely on what you are looking for, and it is IMO woefully shortsighted to expect one bench to be "best" at everything.

Three vendors already mentioned - Victor Canera, Leon Mege, and Steven Kirsch are excellent options for type of setting you are looking for, if you value quality of workmanship and are willing to pay a premium for it.

I do want to point out, though, if feeling like her ring is a Cartier is truly important to her... not one of those vendors has the history, heritage, or cachet of Cartier and De Beers, the two examples you used. In this case buying a smaller stone in a branded setting may well be worth further consideration.

Is there a particular reason you are looking at a J VVS2? Clarity is very expensive in higher carat weights and VVS2 is unnecessary in practice unless you require exceptionally high clarity for "mind clean" reasons.

 

[kay1]

No, in the US you only get charged state sales tax. There's no country sales tax. If you are shipping to a Washington state address, you will get charged sales tax, otherwise there is no tax.

The onus is on the consumer to pay sales tax on online purchases when it comes time to file taxes. How much of that actually gets reported though, is anyone's guess. It's a huge loophole right now, there are laws coming up that will make internet sellers charge applicable state sales taxes when shipping out of state, but none of those have been passed yet.

Oh that's great So potentially I can get a diamond from anyone in the US and ship it to any designer in the US as long as they don't happen to be in the same state?

You are asking a self-selecting population a very loaded question: expect biased responses. I really dislike when people tout one vendor as the Lord of the Ring - who is "best" depends entirely on what you are looking for, and it is IMO woefully shortsighted to expect one bench to be "best" at everything.

Three vendors already mentioned - Victor Canera, Leon Mege, and Steven Kirsch are excellent options for type of setting you are looking for, if you value quality of workmanship and are willing to pay a premium for it.

I do want to point out, though, if feeling like her ring is a Cartier is truly important to her... not one of those vendors has the history, heritage, or cachet of Cartier and De Beers, the two examples you used. In this case buying a smaller stone in a branded setting may well be worth further consideration.

Is there a particular reason you are looking at a J VVS2? Clarity is very expensive in higher carat weights and VVS2 is unnecessary in practice unless you require exceptionally high clarity for "mind clean" reasons.

I wasn't really interested in getting down to one 'best' designer etc, but wanted to make a list of all the ones that come up in the thread, then make my selection from that shortlist. I definitely want something that has some great craftsmanship in it and not some mass casted thing from china (worst case example).

Cartier is probably a bad example, I more want her to know it's not mass produced, and from a real designer. Neither of us are into labels to shout about them, but more because they usually represent quality - because they have a brand image to keep up.

With regards to the stone, I was looking at either a 2 ct / H in VS2 or above, or if the compromise was worth it, something much larger in I or J. I came across that particular stone that just happened to be a VVS2. Even if i drop my search to a VS2 i can't find anything bigger or 'better' than that one. So VVS2 isn't out of choice, just what was available.

 

[SMC]

No, in the US you only get charged state sales tax. There's no country sales tax. If you are shipping to a Washington state address, you will get charged sales tax, otherwise there is no tax.

The onus is on the consumer to pay sales tax on online purchases when it comes time to file taxes. How much of that actually gets reported though, is anyone's guess. It's a huge loophole right now, there are laws coming up that will make internet sellers charge applicable state sales taxes when shipping out of state, but none of those have been passed yet.

Oh that's great So potentially I can get a diamond from anyone in the US and ship it to any designer in the US as long as they don't happen to be in the same state?

Yes.

You are asking a self-selecting population a very loaded question: expect biased responses. I really dislike when people tout one vendor as the Lord of the Ring - who is "best" depends entirely on what you are looking for, and it is IMO woefully shortsighted to expect one bench to be "best" at everything.

Three vendors already mentioned - Victor Canera, Leon Mege, and Steven Kirsch are excellent options for type of setting you are looking for, if you value quality of workmanship and are willing to pay a premium for it.

I do want to point out, though, if feeling like her ring is a Cartier is truly important to her... not one of those vendors has the history, heritage, or cachet of Cartier and De Beers, the two examples you used. In this case buying a smaller stone in a branded setting may well be worth further consideration.

Is there a particular reason you are looking at a J VVS2? Clarity is very expensive in higher carat weights and VVS2 is unnecessary in practice unless you require exceptionally high clarity for "mind clean" reasons.

I wasn't really interested in getting down to one 'best' designer etc, but wanted to make a list of all the ones that come up in the thread, then make my selection from that shortlist. I definitely want something that has some great craftsmanship in it and not some mass casted thing from china (worst case example).

Cartier is probably a bad example, I more want her to know it's not mass produced, and from a real designer. Neither of us are into labels to shout about them, but more because they usually represent quality - because they have a brand image to keep up.

With regards to the stone, I was looking at either a 2 ct / H in VS2 or above, or if the compromise was worth it, something much larger in I or J. I came across that particular stone that just happened to be a VVS2. Even if i drop my search to a VS2 i can't find anything bigger or 'better' than that one. So VVS2 isn't out of choice, just what was available.

I think VV2 is a good choice as you are buying and setting the stone sight unseen. VV2 is pretty much guaranteed to be eye clean. Most on this forum do try to view the stone in person or have a trusted pair of eyes evaluate the stone before setting though.

 

[tweeter8177]

Thanks, I just sent an email to Leon, and am about to send one to Steven.

I've found my ideal stone at bluenile - 2.5 ct / J / VVS2 (HCA 1. - $21,499:

http://www.bluenile.com/round-diamond-2-carat-ideal-cut-j-color-vvs2-clarity_LD04187168?keyword_search_value=LD04187168

It's a great price and I can't find anyone else that has anything close. Because of the J colour i'm considering rings such as this:

http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/the-evelyn-solitaire-with-flush-stems
http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/pave-four-prong-solitaire
http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/the-trueste-with-pave

They are special order, but I assume easier/faster to make than a totally custom one. I could tweak the design when I speak to them. I've asked them if they can source the stone, but if they can't i'm unsure how to do this. I'm in the UK.

If I ship myself the diamond I pay 20% VAT (tax).
When they ship the entire ring to me i pay 20% VAT and 2.5% duty. I'm willing to accept the extra 2.5% to get this design.

So i'm thinking to get BN to ship the diamond direct to them, they can then make the ring and ship to me. But when BN ships to them won't I be liable for US sales tax?

I really don't want to be taxed twice!

Just to clarify, special order on VC's website means it is totally custom. He has a few that he is selling as is with the diamond already included in the price. But other than that, he doesn't have stock rings to tweak. So, make sure to ask him about meeting your deadline of 4-6 weeks!! I don't know if Steven Kirsch sources diamonds, but you could also have ERD pick you a diamond. I know they delivered the diamond I purchased from them to Steven to design my ring (they are across the street). I believe ERD will provide pictures/idealscopes of their diamonds and they are priced competitively with Blue Nile in my opinion. Just another thought...

 

[chrono]

If I wanted something bespoke with the caliber and feel of Cartier, I would use RDG. However, they are based in NZ and have a long waiting list, if they are still taking on projects.
http://www.rdgnz.com/About_RDG.html

 

[kay1]

Just to clarify, special order on VC's website means it is totally custom. He has a few that he is selling as is with the diamond already included in the price. But other than that, he doesn't have stock rings to tweak. So, make sure to ask him about meeting your deadline of 4-6 weeks!! I don't know if Steven Kirsch sources diamonds, but you could also have ERD pick you a diamond. I know they delivered the diamond I purchased from them to Steven to design my ring (they are across the street). I believe ERD will provide pictures/idealscopes of their diamonds and they are priced competitively with Blue Nile in my opinion. Just another thought...

I figured as much, but was thinking since he's made it before, it might be slightly faster to get done - essentially because there's a concrete image that I want it like. I imagine there's a lot of extra time involved in the consultation process usually.

My current issue is that I haven't been able to find a diamond as 'good' as the BN one on anyone else's site. I will of course ask the designer (probably victor) to give me his opinion on the diamond, and if it's no good I'll ask them to source me one and we can ship it back to BN.

Currently it's a juggling act and the clock is ticking :/ My contingency plans are to just return the diamond to BN, pay for a second diamond victor etc can source - I have enough cash to do that while any BN refund processes.

If all goes well though, the BN diamond will arrive at victors, he makes the ring, ships to me, I pay the tax and celebrate

 

[kay1]

Oh and here's the GIA report number if you're interested:

6157942152

http://www.gia.edu/cs/Satellite?pagename=GST%2FDispatcher&childpagename=GIA%2FPage%2FReportCheck&c=Page&cid=1355954554547&reportno=6157942152

 

[Acinom]

The diamond experts here can give you some feedback on the stone.
The settings you have selected are just gorgeous!! I especially love the Trueste with pave and the Evelyn. I am completely biased though as I worked with Victor and his designs are fabulous and his craftmanship top notch. He is also very helpful when it comes to shipping your ring (I live in the Netherlands and he was really helpful in finding the best options.

Victor, Steven and Leon are all used to working with international clients.

 

[tyty333]

Those 3 settings are all beautiful! The 3rd one would be my favorite.

 

[kay1]

The diamond experts here can give you some feedback on the stone.
The settings you have selected are just gorgeous!! I especially love the Trueste with pave and the Evelyn. I am completely biased though as I worked with Victor and his designs are fabulous and his craftmanship top notch. He is also very helpful when it comes to shipping your ring (I live in the Netherlands and he was really helpful in finding the best options.

Victor, Steven and Leon are all used to working with international clients.

I think the Evelyn and Trueste are my favourites too but the Evelyn probably works the best because she will wear a wedding ring with it. The normal Pave looks a bit clunky now compared to the others. I'm only worried about the J colour showing, i'll have to speak to victor about that.

BTW any idea on the ballpark for something like that? I'm not even sure what kind of pricing domain we're in here!

 

[Acinom]

Color is a very personal and subjective thing. Some people actually prefer (a bit of) warmth (I do!! My stone is a U-V color), others prefer icy white and some are not color sensitive. It will be good to talk to Victor about not making the contrast too big. I guess you will be very safe with a J though if he for example uses H color melee.

Others might chime in about the pricing. I have the Sophia design which is quite pricy because of the french cuts in the shank (up to 8k depending on the size of the center stone)
A Emilya halo ring will be about 4-5 k. I have no idea about the designs you have selected. If you send Victor a message, he will respond rather quick. Prices fluctuate because of platinum, gold and diamond prices fluctuating, as well as the size of the center stone and 'special requests' (like adding tiny birthstones in the inside of the shank). So your best bet is to ask Victor directly.

 

[kay1]

So the quote on the pave and Trusete came in at about 4k give or take a couple hundred. I forgot to add the link for the Evilyn, but I'm sure it's going to be similar. Not too bad

They can't find the same diamond tho, and are seeing if they can find a similar one.

 

[geoffreysnow]

I think in your case I would give leon a call and ask to speak with Perry. He sources diamonds for customers and can probably offer you a competitive price while giving you the entire ring quote in one source. Best to call as it can take a few days for email and you can basically sort out an order in short time

 

[kay1]

I think in your case I would give leon a call and ask to speak with Perry. He sources diamonds for customers and can probably offer you a competitive price while giving you the entire ring quote in one source. Best to call as it can take a few days for email and you can basically sort out an order in short time

I have an email conversation going on with Chelsea P at the moment, and she's responding fairly quickly - I'm also working at the same time lol. When I get a few mins I'll call them.

I told her the specs etc and asked if they have anything similar. I may end up dropping in carrat to 2ct and getting a H if the price is right, i only compromised to a J because the carrat weight is 2.5 (and they cut is great of course).

EDIT: I just realise you were talking about Leon and not Victor!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

I would choose Victor or Steven in a heartbeat (for US ringmakers). In addition to being pave masters, they also have integrity. I have used Victor before and can highly recommend him as doing beautiful work and being very easy to work with. I have also used Leon and would not use him again.

(I just do want to add that Mike Robinson is outstanding and produces one-of-a-kind art pieces. But he is in NZ and is not taking PS orders at this time as far as I know.)

 

[kay1]

I would choose Victor or Steven in a heartbeat (for US ringmakers). In addition to being pave masters, they also have integrity. I have used Victor before and can highly recommend him as doing beautiful work and being very easy to work with. I have also used Leon and would not use him again.

(I just do want to add that Mike Robinson is outstanding and produces one-of-a-kind art pieces. But he is in NZ and is not taking PS orders at this time as far as I know.)

Can i ask why you wouldn't use Leon again?

 

[diamondseeker2006]

There have been at least two people report here that they had structural problems with his rings... as in the head/prongs becoming detached from the shank (these rings were possibly too thing but he should have known and not made them that way) and there have been other minor issues such as shanks going out of round, etc. My own ring was fine structurally, but the head was too low from an aesthetic standpoint and the workmanship was not perfect. But there have also been some very odd situations where customer service on his part was rather inadequate. You might want to do a search and read a bit on here (most recent thread: Leon Mege months of bad service and the 5.13 carat Pear).

 

[kay1]

There have been at least two people report here that they had structural problems with his rings... as in the head/prongs becoming detached from the shank (these rings were possibly too thing but he should have known and not made them that way) and there have been other minor issues such as shanks going out of round, etc. My own ring was fine structurally, but the head was too low from an aesthetic standpoint and the workmanship was not perfect. But there have also been some very odd situations where customer service on his part was rather inadequate. You might want to do a search and read a bit on here (most recent thread: Leon Mege months of bad service and the 5.13 carat Pear).

Wow, while waiting for your reply I did exactly that and searched. I found that particular thread and a bunch of comments scattered across the internet about how LM rings are super-thin - a lot of people questioning if they are structurally sound.

Perry from LM just got back to me too, and suggested I stay away from J colour and offered me a bunch of other stones 2ct/H (I had said 2ct/H was my backup option), none of which are great. He said they were all eye clean, but one has needle's all around the edge (it almost looks like a bicycle tyre ), and the others have inclusions in the table.

To be fair, 2ct/H at the $22k mark with no compromises isn't that easy, and he may have a point about the J colour.

I'm torn because this 2.5 ct / J / VVS2 / HCA 1.8 is pretty good value at $21,499 even though it stretches my budget a bit. I can't find anything that great in H/I - well nothing that it seems worth stretching the budget for. Maybe I should just drop to a 1.75 / H or something.

 

[Tekate]

the EVELYLN is my dream ring, and that is that.. I hope you pick that one! I wish I could have a 2 carat Evelyn.. your fiancee, in whatever stone and setting you pick, is very lucky.. over and over I read these boards and cannot believe the talent and caring that posters and vendors place... I wish you much luck.. and please post a pix(sss) when you can.. wishing you much happiness in life.

tekate

Thanks, I just sent an email to Leon, and am about to send one to Steven.

I've found my ideal stone at bluenile - 2.5 ct / J / VVS2 (HCA 1. - $21,499:

http://www.bluenile.com/round-diamond-2-carat-ideal-cut-j-color-vvs2-clarity_LD04187168?keyword_search_value=LD04187168

It's a great price and I can't find anyone else that has anything close. Because of the J colour i'm considering rings such as this:

http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/the-evelyn-solitaire-with-flush-stems
http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/pave-four-prong-solitaire
http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/the-trueste-with-pave

They are special order, but I assume easier/faster to make than a totally custom one. I could tweak the design when I speak to them. I've asked them if they can source the stone, but if they can't i'm unsure how to do this. I'm in the UK.

If I ship myself the diamond I pay 20% VAT (tax).
When they ship the entire ring to me i pay 20% VAT and 2.5% duty. I'm willing to accept the extra 2.5% to get this design.

So i'm thinking to get BN to ship the diamond direct to them, they can then make the ring and ship to me. But when BN ships to them won't I be liable for US sales tax?

I really don't want to be taxed twice!

 

[kay1]

Hmm what about this:

http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/the-emilya-with-flush-fitting-stems

Do you think it'd look ridiculous with a 2.5 ct? She likes the double Aura at debeers so I wonder if this might be a better bet. I can get a 1ct / H / Si1 from debeers, or 2.5ct / J / VVS2 + this halo from VC for about $3000 more.

 

[kay1]

So I found this thread:

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/im-now-a-member-of-the-victor-canera-club.176673/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/im-now-a-member-of-the-victor-canera-club.176673/[/URL]

That's a 2.36, this will be a 2.5 - Does that look too big? My instinct is yes, but then i'm a guy, and I have no clue about what women want in rings :/