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Bespoke Lab Ruby Ring

Niffler75

Niffler75

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 3, 2020
Messages
1,112
So I am planning to have a ring made using the lab ruby I purchased last week. The measurements are 11x11mm modified cushion precision cut.

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I have contacted a company called Jewelcast in the UK and am starting to look for inspiration. I will then try to sketch out my idea and have a CAD drawn up, 3D printed and cast. Then have a local bench set the stone.
Here are some pics I really love. I want a substantial RHR that is unique, clean and modern.
I am toying with the idea of a flush set grey spinel on either side of the central stone as I quite like the idea of red and grey together.
I love bezels but am thinking a semi bezel setting would be better.


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Thoughts, ideas always welcome! :mrgreen2:
Once I get my creative juices going I'll try some sketches and post them.
 
Nothing to add but to say I love your inspiration photos and I love your beautiful ruby. :love:
 
Oooh, exciting! Your ruby is so beautiful @Niffler75. I'm drawn to the two tone setting with the blue stone.
 
I love bezel settings and went with a semi bezel but I would think twice about doing a semi bezel again - whenever I put my ring down the stone (zircon) comes into direct contact with the surface of the table i.e it isn't protected. I might be being paranoid but I'm worried that one day I'll take the ring off in too much of a hurry and damage the stone.

I'm also in the UK and looking forward to hearing how you get on. And fabulous stone!
 
@junebug17 Thanks for your thoughts. I am really looking to create a more selective bespoke collection of jewellery so am selling about a quarter/ third of the pieces I have to fund new projects and really paring things back.

Hi @Tartansparkles Thanks for your input. I really appreciate it. Take a look at Jewelcast in Birmingham. Tell me what you think. They have fantastic examples of their work and the casting process seems very reasonably priced. I really like the idea of using CAD and 3D printing to create something unique! It will be my first time doing this, so documenting my progress I hope will be helpful, particularly for others in the UK. =)2
 
Would a diamond halo make it too big for your finger, as it Is a big stone?

Here is my inexpensive Amethyst purchased from Jeff Davies, similar in shape and slightly small than your Ruby, in a diamond halo inspired by Tiffany's Legacy setting.

My ring finger is about 8.5 US.

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DK :))
 
@dk168 Oh that's beautiful! The amethyst is virtually the same shape. Thanks for sharing! :mrgreen2: I think a halo may make it a bit too big for my finger but am thinking of flush setting a few grey spinel either side. I'm only 5'2 and have quite small hands.
I am slightly concerned about the CAD process as it will all be done online but obviously want to make absolutely sure my stone will fit the setting!
 
I am 5'2 and shrinking. :lol:
Although I have small hands, I have chunky fingers.
It is good to use a lab stone for your first CAD project as it is less risky.
Good luck, and I look forward to seeing your finished ring.

DK :))
 
So I am working on some rough sketches and think I have found a nifty way of channel setting my ruby so it like like a semi bezel but also offers some protection to the exposed sides.
I was also thinking of flush setting a grey spinel each side of the ruby and have found some 3mm stones that are greyish purple. My ruby has a bit of purple in too. Thoughts anyone?
 
So here is my ring plan I have forwarded to get translated into CAD and made.
I have found some lovely 3.5mm silver purple spinel that I think I will get flush set on either side.
I have also found another casting company in the UK that can offer better costings for the CAD design work, 3D print and casting. =)2

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@Niffler75 I love it! I adore bezels! This reminds me of beautiful Sholdt settings. Looking forward to seeing this done!!
 
What a wonderful project and very exciting!
Just one thing to remember, if you go with a tension set gemstone you can’t resize the ring. You can make it smaller by adding sizing beads or a clip inside, but bigger no.
 
@Slick1 Thanks so much. I personally like simpler modern settings and I think it will hopefully showcase the stone and allow the light in. :mrgreen2:

@Bron357 :wavey:Thanks for the reminder about tension settings and ring size.
If this works out I have a few other projects in mind, maybe a treat for christmas!
Giving myself things to look forward to is helping me stay (relatively) sane!
:lol:
 
So I've decided to go with a different casting company, Black Arts in the UK. Have okayed the budget and it's with CAD designer now.

These are his measurements and starting point. What do you think? ;)2

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I'm following this with interest as I have some loose stones. Will they set the stone for you? Do you need to send it to them to make sure it fits?
 
@paragon1234 They don't set stones on site but have benches they work with who will I think.
Are you in the UK? I have heard of some PSers outsourcing CAD/ setting to other countries. I have been researching getting it all done in the UK. It's a bit of an experiment really! I like a challenge! :cool2:
 
Niffler75 said:
@paragon1234 They don't set stones on site but have benches they work with who will I think.
Are you in the UK? I have heard of some PSers outsourcing CAD/ setting to other countries. I have been researching getting it all done in the UK. It's a bit of an experiment really! I like a challenge! :cool2:
Click to expand...

Yes I'm in the UK. I don't really want to send my precious stones abroad and have yet to find a custom jewellery maker in the UK who doesn't charge an arm and a leg :(
 
@paragon1234 Yes I know the feeling. Don't want to send stones abroad and also don't want to be ripped off for bench work! o_O So we'll see how we go!
 
So had excellent to and fro communication with the CAD designer. Here is a provisional CAD and I have asked for just a few tweaks including tapering the band width a bit more.
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I also worked up a little 2D scale model which I know is not very scientific but gives a good idea of proportions. I am so far really happy.

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wow! How did you make your model? Thats awesome!!
 
@Niffler75 looks way better than I could do! Very cool!
 
It’s going to be a lovely substantial piece @Niffler75, you’ll need it to hold that whopper! Can’t wait to see it IRL, it’s going to be stunning.
 
@Austina Thanks! I tend to wear a single statement piece rather than a number of smaller pieces. =)2
 
Enjoying following along with your journey and looking forward to seeing how you fab ring turns out. How does the pricing work - do you pay for the CAD then casting (presumably plus the cost of gold) then for the setting of the stone?
 
@Tartansparkles Ok, so the CAD designer works separately from the casting company i am using but he takes all the CAD work for them.
CAD and 3D printing I pay the designer, then for the casting pay separately.
So far (touch wood) it has been a smooth process. But I then need to find a bench to set the stone and with jewellers closed, well, that's a work in progress!
So far- CAD design £50 (2 hours work including design revisions) and 3D printing £20.
Then with casting- making model from 3D print £15 + cost of metal per gram.
 
Hi everyone, here is an update. The cast ring has just arrived, gosh it took ages but was worth the wait! So now I need a local bench to grind down the sprue, polish the ring and set the ruby.

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So you can see the pre- made notches that I included in the CAD for the ruby. It is a rounded band and feels extremely comfy to wear!
So on to the final stage. Local jewellers are opening back up so hopefully this stage will be quicker! :mrgreen2:
 
Niffler75 said:
Hi everyone, here is an update. The cast ring has just arrived, gosh it took ages but was worth the wait! So now I need a local bench to grind down the sprue, polish the ring and set the ruby.

20200612_125256.jpg
20200612_125333.jpg
20200612_125522.jpg
20200612_125416.jpg

So you can see the pre- made notches that I included in the CAD for the ruby. It is a rounded band and feels extremely comfy to wear!
So on to the final stage. Local jewellers are opening back up so hopefully this stage will be quicker! :mrgreen2:
Click to expand...

I’m so excited for you!!! It’s going to be STUNNING ❤️❤️❤️
 
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