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Advice on diamond and ring

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EastCoast

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jan 3, 2009
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First of all, this site is awesome. Thanks in advance for everyone''s feedback, it is sincerely appreciated!!

So here''s the deal... after looking at diamonds/rings continuously for a few months, I''m thoroughly overwhelmed and want to get others'' unbiased opinions before I make my purchase (total ring/diamond budget ~$5500-$6000. My girlfriend (who has thin, size 5 1/2 "piano fingers"), wants a halo style ring with a plain band. I really like the trellis style setting, so I worked with a jeweler to combine the styles as shown below in my drawing. My design is a 18 karat white gold ring (using a palladium alloy, not nickel) with a plain shank and a pave halo. The diamond is held by four round prongs which connect to the ring through the halo by a weaved trellis. The halo to has 20 round diamonds (only 16 are drawn, see other picture which has 20). The halo is slightly angled (over-exaggerated in picture) to make it look less boxy and the ring has a low profile (the culet of the diamond is just above the trellis). The diamond will be set low on the prongs (but still slightly above the halo). The shank is 1.5mm, and has either smoothed edges or is rounded. What do you think? I can’t decide between a rounded shank or whether to just have a smoothed comfort-fit type setting. Also, I was quoted $900 for a 14 karat version of this ring. I want it to be 18 karat, and $900 still seems a bit high. Thoughts?

Here is an example ring from BN that is pretty close to what I want from a top view (http://www.bluenile.com/diamond-engagement-ring-platinum_7813?filter_id=1&collection_id=236). The band is a bit too thick (1.9mm shown), and I want round prongs. Otherwise it looks good. I really like how the halo diamonds blend together and are all close to each other and the center stone. I do not want much metal to be showing between the stones. The BN design is $1175, but it is platinum. I figure that platinum is double the price of white gold, and adding a bit more for the customization, I was going to suggest $700 for the ring. Does this sound about right?

About the center diamond… she didn''t tell me any specifics on diamond size (unfortunately), but I know that she isn''t an overly flashy person, and I definitely don''t want it to be too big/bulky. With the halo design, I worry that the overall ring/diamond combo will be a monstrosity. That said, I do not want to offend her in any way by getting her a small diamond. I am looking at diamonds in the 0.85-0.89 range right now (which I was surprised to find quite a few in that range). Do you think this is an appropriate size given her delicate fingers? I looked at a few 0.92''s and they looked too big to me.

Since I’m looking at slightly smaller diamonds than I had originally planned (1.0/0.9 range if it were solitaire probably), I want to make sure it’s a very nice smaller diamond. Plus, she explicitly told me to “make sure it sparkles.”
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Right now I am looking at E/F color and VS1/VS2 clarity diamonds online. The jeweler with which I have been discussing the ring design suggested that I drop the clarity a bit to the VS2/SI1 range (he suggested SI1). I am pretty sure I want at least a VS2, but I’ve never seen anyone pull out a magnifying glass on a ring before
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Am I totally wasting my money on a VS2/VS1? He also preached that color is very important. I’d be fine with an F, but E’s done seem to be too much more either. Here are a few diamonds Im looking at. The diamond prices are way better online, but why do lots of people buy them from the jeweler? I am very open to suggestions regarding diamonds…

http://www.bluenile.com/round-diamond-1-carat-or-less-ideal-cut-e-color-vs1-clarity_LD01460986?filter_id=0

http://www.uniondiamond.com/print/printable.php?action_type_id=25&item_id=AB127609

Thanks everyone! Sorry if this posts twice... I had a little trouble uploading.

ringDesignDrawing.jpg
 
Hi and welcome! It looks like you have a GREAT start. I love the design that you have come up with. I like the look of a rounded band on the ring, but the flat "comfort fit" and might work better for comfort. I think the diamond size that you are looking at will be lovely on her thin fingers, especially with a nice size halo. I also think that you can try to get an eye clean SI1 and go up in either color, or size. (Be sure to verify with the vendor that the stone is "eye clean") Have you looked at any of the vendors here? I know that Whiteflash will do custom work with you, and also have a lot of wonderful stones in stock.
Whiteflash
You can also try James Allen
James Allen
Try searching for your diamond here too... I know they give a discount for being a PS member.
 
How good is the person who is going to make your ring? 1.5mm pave? Has the jeweler ever done it before? and 900 is MORE than reasonable for a high quality piece.

F SI1 is a very nice place, if it fits in your budget.
 
Here''s one from Whiteflash that falls in with your criteria...
stone1
Here''s one that''s one step down in color, but still looks lovely!
stone2
 
Thanks for all the replies. JulieN, the 1.5mm shank is plain. The halo is the part with diamonds in it (not sure what the exact width would be). Are you worried that about the strength of the ring or just the ability to fit the diamonds in? This jeweler was referred to me by a family friend that has used them a lot. The jeweler didnt seem concerned, but when I took my design to another jeweler, they seemed worried about the stability of the halo with a 1.5mm shank. They suggested I use platinum if I go with this design. I like the delicate look of the 1.5mm shank, but certainly want it to last a lifetime... anyone have lots of experience they can share?
 
Date: 1/3/2009 7:06:50 PM
Author: EastCoast
Thanks for all the replies. JulieN, the 1.5mm shank is plain. The halo is the part with diamonds in it (not sure what the exact width would be). Are you worried that about the strength of the ring or just the ability to fit the diamonds in? This jeweler was referred to me by a family friend that has used them a lot. The jeweler didnt seem concerned, but when I took my design to another jeweler, they seemed worried about the stability of the halo with a 1.5mm shank. They suggested I use platinum if I go with this design. I like the delicate look of the 1.5mm shank, but certainly want it to last a lifetime... anyone have lots of experience they can share?
Click to expand...


Well, first, I thought the shank also had diamonds in it. I was a little horrified...

A gold ring of 1.5 mm is not going to last a lifetime. It might, but it's not built for that. A ring that is designed to last a lifetime (and beyond) would be made of platinum, and should be at least 2.5mm, onwards to 3-3.5mm. Mark Morrell's pieces are good examples of this.

I'm also worried about spin/comfort of a 1.5mm shank with a halo. IMO, a thicker shank will be more comfortable for balancing the top-heavy weight of the halo and reduce spinning...
 
When picking a jeweler to create your custom setting make sure you pick someone qualified to do the work. A family referral is good a s long as he has experience with halos and custom pieces. Otherwise I would be cautious. Being a nice honest person doesn''t mean you''ve got the skill or talent. Make sure you see a number of samples/photos of halos. So many people come to PS after they''ve had a jeweler set their stone and it turns out the quality level just wasn''t there. Also find out if you will see CADs or a wax form before it''s finished.

A 1ct stone with a halo will be substantial. Has your GF tried any on? If her finger is slim there is the risk that the weight of the head will tend to make it spin.
 
Ditto SwingGirl. A great halo is a thing of beauty, but a poorly made halo would be terrible. I''d ask the jewler to show you photos or samples of similar work they''ve done. You also might want to look at standard halo settings with thinner shanks and have your GF try them on. It is a great idea, but one that might not work out so well in reality.
 
I have a 1.5 shank and I like the thinness to it but...it is platinum. Have you showed your design to your GF? Or are you trying to surprise her? If you are
going to this much effort I would really want to know that she likes the design first and puts her 2 cents in. Just my opinion. Some girls can be very
picky and obviously this ring will not be returnable. Personally I like your design and think its pretty unique. Can the jeweler give you a size estimate of
the halo so you can determine what size stone to stick with? Keep us posted.



I found a really good post you should go take a look at. It has to do with the size of the diamond with out a halo and then the size added on by
putting the stone in a halo. Its a really good thread. Check it out. It is using a .75 stone.

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/thin-halos-with-1-pointers-how-big-of-a-difference-did-it-make-to-the-overall-look-of-your-center.58156/
 
Now I''m really glad I posted on here... thanks for the honest advice/concern. JulieN/swingirlwhat do you mean by spinning? You mean the shank would have a greater tendency to rotate towards the palm due to weight right? Or are you concerned that the actual halo will twist? Sorry, I''m a newbie...

As far as shank thickness, it sounds like 1.5mm might be a bit too thin. Would 2mm be enough or do I really need 2.5mm? 2.5mm seems like it might swallow her finger, but I wont know until I see it on her (she wants it to be a surprise). Im not opposed to the idea of platinum. Also, I have seen a number of halos at the jeweler, but I am not sure if they were customs or just standard settings - I''ll look into it.

Swingirl, do you think a 0.85 stone would be too big? I originally wanted to get an 80 point diamond, but her best friend thought I should make it a bit bigger. I really dont want it to be too flashy looking though, thats really not her style.
 
By spinning I mean the head of the ring (with the stone in it) twists around so the stone is facing the palm. It happens to a lot of us when our ring size has to accommodate a large knuckle or when fingers are very slim. Also a heavy head can twist around. It''s just something to consider when designing a ring. Halos are beautiful but they add extra weight.

Here is a halo ring with a 0.82ct stone just to give an idea. http://www.artofplatinum.com/4images/details.php?image_id=466&mode=search
 
Date: 1/3/2009 11:04:33 PM
Author: swingirl
By spinning I mean the head of the ring (with the stone in it) twists around so the stone is facing the palm. It happens to a lot of us when our ring size has to accommodate a large knuckle or when fingers are very slim. Also a heavy head can twist around. It''s just something to consider when designing a ring. Halos are beautiful but they add extra weight.

Here is a halo ring with a 0.82ct stone just to give an idea. http://www.artofplatinum.com/4images/details.php?image_id=466&mode=search
Click to expand...
This is a great ring!! You might consider this one from Leon for your engagement ring. You can be confident of the workmanship.
 
I love that ring (minus the micropave on the shank)!!! I emailed him about the trellis idea. The 0.82 helps a lot too, I think 0.85 is about as big as I would want to go.

Another question for thought: I really like the look of the thinner shank (1.5mm). Do you think that I could get the wedding band fused to the ring to add stability? Just trying to think out of the box. Im looking into platinum too...

Thanks!
 
Personally I don't like rings fused together. Many of us like to wear them separate. I wear my wedding band all the time but don't wear my ering all the time especially if I am doing something that could damage it.

Regarding Leon Mege, his studio does beautiful work but he has a certain style of attaching the heads so that is any integral part of the ring. I don't think I've ever seen a trellis in his work. His pave and halos are spectacular.

The trellis is usually an extension of the prongs so I don't know where they would end up under a halo but I guess your designer would work that out.
 
I would really encourage you to work with a PS recommended vendor to have tha tring custom made. Custom work is tricky, and pave is tricky, and thin bands are tricky... and family jewelers, in my experience, are not always the best place to get such work done. The jeweler is probably sending the design our to a benchman somewhere to be made and the quality may or may not be good! So do the homework carefully if you want to use this jeweler, because there have been many people unhappy with their custom rings when they didn''t get enough proof of the jewelers capabilities prior to starting the process.

The reality is that you get what you pay for! A ring like that from Leon Mege would probably by in the $1500 range or more, and from Whiteflash it would be similar I am willing to bet. Those vendors will both give you AWESOME quality and you can search here on PS to read hundreds of testimonials to that effect. So I would really urge you to consider one of these two vendors (but read up because working with Leon is very different than working with WF
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) Wink Jones also apparently has a top knotch benchman working with him, and Engagement Rings Direct is also a great custom place. If you go with either of these latter three vendors you can also get your diamond from them, which is the safest bet because they will then take financial responsibility for the diamond during the setting process, something that the majority of jewelers will not do for a stone they did not sell you.
 
I can handle $1500 for the ring if I know it will be better quality and safer. I realize you cant give me a quote for them, but was your estimate of $1500 for white gold or platinum? It sounds like I need platinum for this ring. So what should I ask the jeweler - anything specific or just to see some halos and micropave work? Also, has anyone else had trouble searching for diamonds on whiteflash? I love the james allen and blue nile sites, but really cant figure out the white flash site. Am I missing something or just an idiot? Thanks for continuing to read my thread!
 

Leon only works in Platinum, I''m not sure how his prices would vary based on the diamond work but he may be more like $2000 plus. I know his simple solitaire was around $1200 a while back... I think 18K Wg is fine for this type of setting and have seen many such rings from WF. You need to choose a vendor and get in touch with them for more information.


And nooooo I have never had any troubles with the WF site

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Starts on this link: http://www.whiteflash.com/diamonds/Default.aspx, enter your preferred specs, then click "Whiteflash ACA hearts and arrows". Up come the rocks! The ACAs are all AGS0 Ideal cuts, so they are all lovely (though of course you want to verify). Assuming that you spend $1500 on a WG setting like you want from WF, here are some options in your budget: http://www.whiteflash.com/diamonds/Compare_Diamonds.aspx?idnos=1848247,1843965,1848249,1848238,1843976,1848241


I know the family jeweler was stressing the importance of color, but that is a line that jewelers feed people to divert them from what really matters: CUT!! Color is subjective in many PSers opinion, and I think that unless you are wanting a D-F for a particular reason (family expectations, you just love knowing it is that grade, you are very "color sensitive") then it is not worth sacrificing size to go up one or two color grades. But you may feel differently. You will not see a hint of colour or warmth in an ideal cut G-H stone. I cannot see color in my ideal J-color stone!


 
I think $1500 is a low estimate of what Leon would charge for that setting. Why don''t you submit a quote request to see if it is actually in your budget?
 
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