950 Platinum or 18k white gold for engagement ring?

[Iridium]

Hello,

Despite having read multiple threads and even academic papers about the hardness and durability of both platinum and white gold, I still can't decide what I want for my engagement ring.

I'm trying to decide between 950 platinum/ruthenium alloy or 18k white palladium gold.

Hardness vs. durability according to PriceScope is the following: https://www.pricescope.com/education/engagement-rings/platinum-vs-white-gold
950 platinum/ruthenium alloy 130HV 66.000PSI
18k white palladium gold 125HV 29.000PSI

Although according to the paper I attach is actually the following:
950 platinum/ruthenium alloy 120-130HV
18k white palladium gold 150-160HV (although the value is for a different alloy, not with palladium)

Cost wise, with the latest increase in gold price, platinum turns out to be cheaper, actually:

950 platinum/ruthenium alloy 9 grams 254.71 USD + 0.82 USD = 255.53 USD

Platinum Price Per 1 Gram

29.79 USD

Ruthenium Price Per 1 Gram

16.41 USD

18k white palladium gold 6 grams 330.17 USD + 8.09 = 338.26 USD

Gold Price Per 1 Gram

73.37 USD

Palladium Price Per 1 Gram

32.36 USD

Although I'm sure the jeweller will end up asking more for platinum despite materials being cheaper.

I was almost set on 950 platinum/ruthenium, but then the designer that is making the CAD for my ring told me that he'd recommend gold because platinum is too soft. I don't care much about white gold losing the rhodium plating (gold) nor about the ring getting scratched (platinum). What should I get? Can I get your advice?

 

[LightBright]

Hi here is a link to a thread discussion about the various metals that i found helpful. There is a link to a website in the first comment by the original poster that describes metals content and descriptions so I’ve put the link here too.

Rings of different alloys together & different alloys for prongs and body of the ring?

Okay these are more of educational questions for future purchases, not immediate concerns. But I imagine most will agree there are not many things more unfortunate than seeing scratches and wear-damages from wearing multiple rings of different metals, on the same or adjacent fingers. I also...

www.pricescope.com

Precious Metals

Learn more about the pros and cons of precious metals used in jewelry like silver, palladium, platinum, white gold, yellow gold and rose gold

nodeform.com

One thing I didn’t realize in considering White Gold is that it often has either Nickel as part of the alloy or Palladium which vary in price. A good portion of the population is allergic to Nickel, and I avoid it because I’m one of those people (it makes my skin blister). Europe has banned it at some levels and has limits in jewelry alloys. I’ve read on line that at 18k versus 14k, Nickel sensitivity is less likely, but for me, I might not take a chance.

The other thing people don’t realize is that Platinum is much heavier than Gold. So if the design is delicate it can add a nice heft to a delicate design, but if the design is thicker, like if it’s a halo, it can be heavy and even top heavy. This might not be a problem, it isn’t for me, but just be aware.

I personally prefer Iridium Platinum, which used to be used exclusively, but now is hardly ever available. I like it because (my uneducated opinion only) it’s slightly whiter and less brittle than Ruthenium Platinum. My understanding is that Cobalt Platinum is used in Europe only.

Another not so fun fact is that I think some Ebay dealers list a Nickel or Cobalt alloy metal as California Prop 65 regulated. For example, I’ve seen CA Prop 65 Warnings on some Vintage Gold rings, presumably due to Nickle or Cobalt and I’ve been told this might be geared towards US vendors where content is not regulated who sell to Europeans where it is.

Sorry for so much detail, but it’s an interesting question.

 

[Iridium]

@LightBright thank you for your comment.

In my case, I've already taken everything into account (different weight, cost of palladium - which right now is more expensive than platinum - ... everything is taken into account in my calculations).

I didn't know the hardness of the specific 18k white gold palladium alloy, but now, thanks to your link, I do:
950 platinum/ruthenium alloy 130 HV
18k white palladium gold 130 -158 HV

This is what your links says (in case anyone doesn't want to search for the info):

Platinum	95% Pure 95% Platinum, 5% others (mostly Ruthenium) Specific Gravity: 20.7 75-80% heavier than white gold, platinum is the densest metal alloy	130 HV as-cast Slightly softer than palladium white gold alloys It does not wear down or thin over time as much as white gold. 23% greater wear resistance compared with white gold in terms of metal loss/thinning due to wear. Because of it’s high density it holds textures, patterns and engravings better than other alloys and often edges look sharper	Maintains it's white color forever. The color is a neutral light gray. Darker than Sterling Silver or rhodium plated white gold. A tad lighter than palladium. Much lighter than non-plated palladium White Gold.	Nickel and copper free. Hypo-allergenic Extreme tarnish resistance, least likely to be affected (discolored or corroded) by household chemicals or chlorine	Long term maintenance includes repolishing. Polishing platinum is more labor intensive than gold or palladium alloys. Most scratches are not deep and can be easily be polished out by a jeweler.
18k Palladium White Gold	75.2% gold, 24.8% Other (copper, palladium), Nickel-free Specific Gravity: 15.9 10-20% heavier than 14k gold, 20-25% lighter than platinum	130 -158 HV as-cast (palladium white gold) Usually a tad stiffer and slightly harder than palladium or platinum with slightly better scratch resistance. Slightly harder and more scratch resistant than 14k palladium white gold. Metal does wear down over the years more than platinum or palladium.	Warm gray color, darker than palladium or platinum with a yellow tint to it. Often a tad brighter than 14k palladium alloy. Actual color may vary depending on exact alloy composition and alloy manufacturer. Does not yellow over time as much as nickel based white gold alloys. Does not need rhodium plating, but plating can be done at a local jeweler if a whiter color is desired.	Nickel free. Purer than 14k white gold but not as pure as palladium or platinum. Less likely to cause allergies, tarnish or discolor than 14k white gold (more likely to react than palladium or platinum) Can be damaged (get brittle and porous) if exposed to chlorine.	Long term maintenance includes repolishing. Most scratches are not deep and can be easily be polished out. Does not require rhodium plating, but if plating was done it does need to be refreshed every couple of months/years depending on wear

I do agree that is a very interesting debate. I'm still undecided, honestly.

Two things I didn't mentioned in my initial post are:

• Where I live, it's much easier and cheaper to find jewelers that work with gold than with platinum.
• The wedding band will be Cartier Vendome Louis Cartier in 18k gold. But in my culture, you wear the engagement ring and the wedding band on different fingers.

 

[LightBright]

I’m thinking maybe you should go try on Platinum versus White Gold rings and see if the weight or tactile nature of the rings are different.

Maybe you’ve already commented on this but White Gold needs to be Rhodium plated occasionally to stay white and it’s really pretty when it’s fresh but IMO looks bad when it’s not. If you are very meticulous you might not like that aspect. I personally don’t like that aspect of ring maintenance. But I think Rhodium plated rings look super white and pretty, I think I like that look better than I like the look of unplated Ruthenium Platinum which can be grayish to my eyes.

 

[Iridium]

I’m thinking maybe you should go try on Platinum versus White Gold rings and see if the weight or tactile nature of the rings are different.

Maybe you’ve already commented on this but White Gold needs to be Rhodium plated occasionally to stay white and it’s really pretty when it’s fresh but IMO looks bad when it’s not. If you are very meticulous you might not like that aspect. I personally don’t like that aspect of ring maintenance. But I think Rhodium plated rings look super white and pretty, I think I like that look better than I like the look of unplated Ruthenium Platinum which can be grayish to my eyes.

I've got both platinum (no idea the alloy) and 18k white gold rings and jewelry and I don't notice any differences. I recently took some rings to the jeweller because I want them to make them smaller, I knew one of them was platinum but didn't remember which one and for the life of me I wasn't able to tell which one and I tried for hours to see which one it was.

Yes, I like how recently Rhodium plated white gold looks the most (compared to platinum or old white gold). But I never replate any of my rings (not because I'm cheap, it's just that everytime they plate it they need to polish it and they take away material) and I don't really hate the look of unplated white gold.

 

[Iridium]

Hi,

I just wanted to update because according to Hoover & Strong, the hardness of the allows they sell is the following:
950 platinum/ruthenium alloy 130 HV
950 platinum/ruthenium/gallium alloy (TruPt tm) 180 HV
18k white palladium gold 130 HV

Sadly, I don't live in the US and I don't think my jeweller will have access to that specific TruPt alloy, but it seems much stronger than traditional 950 pt/ru or 18k white pd au.

I attach the file with the hardness of every alloy Hoover & Strong sells.

 

[LightBright]

Hi,

I just wanted to update because according to Hoover & Strong, the hardness of the allows they sell is the following:
950 platinum/ruthenium alloy 130 HV
950 platinum/ruthenium/gallium alloy (TruPt tm) 180 HV
18k white palladium gold 130 HV

Sadly, I don't live in the US and I don't think my jeweller will have access to that specific TruPt alloy, but it seems much stronger than traditional 950 pt/ru or 18k white pd au.

I attach the file with the hardness of every alloy Hoover & Strong sells.

I think you are maybe in analysis paralysis which I totally understand.

If you don’t feel strongly about any of the qualities maybe you should just trust the designer and go for it using their expert advice on which metal to use.

You can also just write out a simple list on pros and cons for each metal and add up the pros to make a decision.

To me it doesn’t look like you are against or for either metal in a strong way, so letting someone - eg an expert - decide for you might help you here.

I’ve been there with analysis paralysis so I’m speaking with empathy here.

 

[Avondale]

The ring design will be a big factor in which metal is more suitable, so you’ll need the jeweller’s input on that one.

Aside from that, I’d go for platinum. It’s not that much heavier, it’s actually quite pleasant. It develops patina, yes, but the scratches are simply displacement of material, the ring won’t lose any metal. Polishing also removes almost no material from platinum, if you even want to polish, because the patina is quite beautiful. It’s perfectly durable for an everyday piece.

I’m saying this as someone who’s very much a fan of 14k white gold but went with platinum for my wedding ring.

 

[jjca]

I think you are maybe in analysis paralysis which I totally understand.

If you don’t feel strongly about any of the qualities maybe you should just trust the designer and go for it using their expert advice on which metal to use.

You can also just write out a simple list on pros and cons for each metal and add up the pros to make a decision.

To me it doesn’t look like you are against or for either metal in a strong way, so letting someone - eg an expert - decide for you might help you here.

I’ve been there with analysis paralysis so I’m speaking with empathy here.

I’ll be using the term “analysis paralysis” as a term to describe myself for the rest of my days… it very accurately describes my decision making process. Love it, thanks!

 

[Bron357]

I have 18ct white gold which is rhodium plated twice a year. I find platinum to be a flat greyish colour and really prefer the very white and shiny finish of rhodium plating.
That said, platinum is a better choice for prongs although resizing a platinum ring does take an experienced jeweller or you can end up with “a visible seam”.