Working on a ring with Jeff White and DK

[BlingDreams]

Hi! Jeff is going to be recutting a vintage light yellow sapphire for me into a cushion cut (it’s currently an asscher). I’m planning to have DK create a setting using an airline and halo, and am looking for ideas on the gallery view. I thought of doing standard petals, but wonder if perhaps a more solid profile would be better? I’m also toying with cupping the sapphire to enhance the color.

Do you have any vintage-inspired gallery views that you particularly love? My avatar is roughly how I’m hoping the top view will turn out, if that helps. Thanks for your help!

 

[Slickk]

I think this gallery is so pretty. This was my dk sapphire target ring

 

[PinkAndBlueBling]

I like this one from CvB. It's not your typical gallery:

 

[BlingDreams]

I like this one from CvB. It's not your typical gallery:

Is it better to leave the gallery open, such as above, or closed? How much does it affect light performance?

I’m toying with enclosing the stone on the sides but leaving the bottom open for cleaning. I think I’d miss seeing the yellow of the sapphire through the gallery, but it would help keep it cleaner if I understand correctly. I think especially if I use a cup, I wouldn’t want to see the cup through the gallery.

 

[PinkAndBlueBling]

I think it depends on the stone, but here's an old thread regarding diamonds:

ring gallery - open or closed?

Hello there, I'm trying decide on a new ring design and getting stuck on the gallery part... I always thought that the gallery should be open. I know that there's a common belief that leaving the galley open allows more light into the center stone which makes it sparkle brighter. Is that true...

www.pricescope.com

 

[BlingDreams]

I think it depends on the stone, but here's an old thread regarding diamonds:

ring gallery - open or closed?

Hello there, I'm trying decide on a new ring design and getting stuck on the gallery part... I always thought that the gallery should be open. I know that there's a common belief that leaving the galley open allows more light into the center stone which makes it sparkle brighter. Is that true...

www.pricescope.com

That was very helpful, thanks!

 

[Niel]

I wouldn’t cup the sapphire. You’re going to want to easily clean it, and it won’t have the same impact as if it was a diamond.

 

[BlingDreams]

I wouldn’t cup the sapphire. You’re going to want to easily clean it, and it won’t have the same impact as if it was a diamond.

Thank you for your insight. Would it be beneficial if I used yellow gold for the gallery, similar to this? Or will it not matter if it’s yellow or white gold?

 

[Niel]

I don’t think that would make much of a difference. What color is your sapphire, exactly? I have found that even a pretty light sapphire pops in white metal. Yellow tends to compete and point out other sapphire undertones and not enhance the yellow.

 

[BlingDreams]

I don’t think that would make much of a difference. What color is your sapphire, exactly? I have found that even a pretty light sapphire pops in white metal. Yellow tends to compete and point out other sapphire undertones and not enhance the yellow.

That’s an interesting insight. I hadn’t considered it would compete with the sapphire. Here is a (fuzzy) snapshot from a video of the ring in its current state. Jeff expects it to stay this color or maybe get slightly lighter after recutting.



And the two styles of basket/gallery I’m now debating between are these. Any pros/cons to either of them?

 

[Niel]

That’ll be beautiful! If you can see it before dk sets it I’d get it home? What I find helpful is take a chain/necklace and coil it into a pile and put the stone on top. You can usually tell if the stone is attractive in that metal that way. Here’s an example of what I mean. This sapphire is orangey and the gold brings out the brown in it. Conversely- the soft and buttery color of your stone might be toned down by a deep gold color.

 

[Niel]

To answer your question I think both are ok. The pedal feels a bit “overdone” but, it’s your ring and only your ring so if you have nothing like it and you like the design, perfect. Also, the pedal design will make it easier to clean. I think there are more fun designs to put in a gallery that’s not pedals. I have one that’s a spiderweb, for example.

 

[Niel]

Here’s an interesting gallery

 

[Niel]

Also interesting but might be hard to revise to fit your angle

 

[BlingDreams]

That’ll be beautiful! If you can see it before dk sets it I’d get it home? What I find helpful is take a chain/necklace and coil it into a pile and put the stone on top. You can usually tell if the stone is attractive in that metal that way. Here’s an example of what I mean. This sapphire is orangey and the gold brings out the brown in it. Conversely- the soft and buttery color of your stone might be toned down by a deep gold color.

Thank you! I’m extra tickled with the sapphire because it’s sourced from a vintage piece of jewelry that was crafted in the decade my parents were born, so it’s extra special. And yes, I’ll have the sapphire before it goes to DK (or now I’m also thinking maybe Victor, if I want to make it an heirloom piece).

I love the idea of putting it on top of gold chains to see the change - thanks for the tip! And I agree about the petals… as much as I like the design in general, I feel it doesn’t quite fit with the overall aesthetics. I’m leaning towards a more blockish shape with filigree motifs as the cutout, and then adding scrollwork on the shank, similar to this.

I’m also debating whether to stick with melee on the shoulders or switch to petite French cuts. I think the frenchies would look amazing but I think the cost would be “amazing” too

 

[Niel]

I agree with your conclusion the design you have is very geometric and I think it would be a poor juxtaposition to have such a geometric top view with an organic profile

 

[BlingDreams]

I agree with your conclusion the design you have is very geometric and I think it would be a poor juxtaposition to have such a geometric top view with an organic profile

I think I have what I need now to reach out to DK and Victor for quotes. Thank you, everyone, for your help!

 

[LilAlex]

I have found that even a pretty light sapphire pops in white metal. Yellow tends to compete and point out other sapphire undertones and not enhance the yellow.

I vote white metal for more of a "high jewelry" look with a yellow stone.