What is good quality melee?

[londongirl77]

Hi

Just wondered if anyone could tell me the difference between good and bad quality melee and what things I need to be aware of when getting a ring with custom made? Apart from Leon Mege, who else would you suggest for their good melee craftsmanship?

Many thanks!

 

[antelope1]

You want well-matched melee (within 1 color grade) of similar cutting styles (either full cut OR single cut, but not a mix, unless you want it that way). Clarity does not matter much as they are so small. Leon's website has a good reference for melee.

The problem from the consumer side is that melee is so small that we can't examine it as we would with a larger diamond. You have to go on the rep of the merchant.

 

[londongirl77]

Many thanks.

I was looking at Mark Broumand's rings and his melee work looks quite nice in the video.
http://www.markbroumand.com/product/235ct-Cushion-Cut-Diamond-Engagement-Anniversary-Ring__1712-1D9502815.aspx

What point size looks good with a 1 carat cushion. I think some melee looks too white and doesn't sparkle if too small.

 

[antelope1]

Some merchants always use D/E or F/G melee. Some merchants will order H/I melee if you want it. I think single cut is really pretty and complements the broad flash of antique cushions better. Full cut is brighter & whiter, and matches modern cushions better.

On melee size, I seem to recall that you want a halo setting with pave on the shank as well? Is that still the case? If so, the melee on the shank should be about as wide as the ring (say 2 pointers or 0.02 carats each, with than one row if you have a wider band). If you go for more 2 rows on the shank, you have the option of a knife-edge. If you go for 1 row on the shank, it will be more square. If you go for 3 rows on the shank, it will be dome or rounded.

The melee on the halo is going to be a different size (most likely). Say 1 pointers for about a 1mm halo. There is also a 3 sided halo, like this one by Mark Patterson. Also, I love the Mark Patterson settings that I have seen -- really delicate and beautiful pave.

You also have to think of the setting style, see the Leon link above. The MB setting has too much metal showing for my taste (and that big score between each pave stone on the shank is distracting). Also, that particular MB setting you posted has a D SI1 with an EGL cert -- you probably want to stick to GIA and AGS graded diamonds because EGL certs are not reliable (and if you get a G and you paid for a D, what was a deal becomes a rip-off).

 

[londongirl77]

Antelope

Many thanks! Excellent advice. Yes, I am looking for a halo, cushion with pave. Stunning design in the link!

 

[Matthewmon]

what is the best melee for a 1.3ct princess cut?