Wedding band options: pave vs. channel

[dmack]

Hi all. I'm super excited to share details about my project with DK and I've love your advice. I'm pretty sure I know what I want, but would love expert opinions in case I'm missing something important.

Background: I'm resetting my wedding and engagement ring. The original set was a .5 carat diamond set in a channel set cathedral setting with engraving, and the matching wedding band. The new engagement ring will be a three-stone bezel set, .25/.5/.25 with DK sourcing the side stones and reusing my original center stone. I've also asked him to recycle the melee diamonds into an eternity wedding band, and add engraving on the eternity band with a similar wheat pattern.

Here are some inspiration photos that I sourced from these forums and Pinterest. I'm pretty sure that partgypsy and I used one of the same inspiration pics of an antique ring, thought that wasn't obvious to me until I saw the CADs. The gallery wires have a "chain" detail that I couldn't really see well until the crisp CAD rendering. I paused when I saw that and debated a simpler design, but I think it's cool. ? Because partgypsy and I also happen to have the same size stones, the top view of the ring will look similar to hers, although I think I've requested several changes that are very different (to me). I hope that's ok, though it's hard to know how my perceptions line up with others. Please flog me in the comments if I've made a misstep.





I've asked for milgrain detail around the bezels, as well as a shank with squared off edges, as I know I'll be pairing this with a band that will be squared off as well.

Although I LOVE the look of intricate galleries on bezel rings, it creates this negative space under the stone that will trap water against my skin and I just....can't do it. I've had rings that have had this type of negative space under the stone in the past and gotten rashes. Hence, I was looking for a compromise between the more enclosed bezel and the very modern open gallery. This ring was saved as an inspiration for a long time but I keep staring at the underside and shuddering:


Here's the final CAD of the engagement ring:


There are a lot of images in this post so going to start my questions in a second...

 

[dmack]

There are two options for the wedding band: bead-set pave or channel. (The wedding band will have matching milgrain on the edges in addition to engraving.) The bead set is attractive because the beads between the stones fill up some of that negative space and the ring itself is a little thinner. DK did say that the stones will sit lower in the band than they appear on the CAD on the pave version once they're set. But the channel is safer, especially since this is an eternity and it's something I plan on wearing 24/7. So that's one reason I'm leaning for channel.

The other is sizing. For my original set, both my rings were size 7 - which is quite roomy for me, but I like loose rings. Because the total mm width of the two rings together was 5+ mm, a size 7 worked just fine. In the pave version, the total width of both rings is 4.4mm. In the channel version, it's 4.7mm. (Though there will be a slight gap between them at the top due to the donuts.) If I go with pave, I wonder if I need to size down in the wedding band to a 6.75 just so that they're not too-too floppy. I almost feel like it's safer to go with the channel band width, size 7, because it's more of a known quantity. Sigh. Thoughts about these choices? Anything I'm not considering that I should be before I sign off on this? THANK YOU.

 

[sprinklesparkles]

In my opinion, channel set would mimic the bezel setting on your ering more than a pave and might work better. Since they both have metal surrounding the stone.

But you really can't go wrong.

 

[tyty333]

I would go for bead set. Channel is more a contemporary look which I dont think you are going for with the bezels, milgrain, and engraving.
Also, I was wondering who told you channel was safer? Maybe you dont lose stones but I've seen some older channel set rings where the
stones have moved over time (gotten closer to a stone on one side and left a gap on the other side). That would drive me nuts. Personally
I would think bead-set is safer because the stones are held down at more than 2 places (but I dont have any real info on this).

Have you thought about going with basically no gallery (no basket, no donut) so your wedding band can set next to your ering band?
That would be my choice.

As far as size, I guess I would go with the larger size on the eternity ring since it is an eternity...rotating doesnt matter so much. If you decide
that its a little too big you can have sizing beads added.

Edit...this thread should really be moved to the Rocky Talky forum. The Show Me The Bling forum is made for showing off your rings after they
are finished.

 

[dmack]

All great points. Requested post to move forums!

Re: safety, I’m thinking about the channel walls taking the brunt of any force from gripping or knocking the ring so that the diamonds are less vulnerable. Although I wonder if I can ask/confirm that the bead set walls are made high enough to offer protection. The potential gaps between stones were exactly why I am debating bead set because it too drives me crazy!

I’m fine with a gap. The flush set bezel rings, after much consideration, read too modern to me (unless they have a very tapered but intricate gallery). I did specify that the bezels be tapered so that the donuts are smaller to minimize the gap, but I kinda like the idea of a small space.

 

[Horsegirl76]

All great points. Requested post to move forums!

Re: safety, I’m thinking about the channel walls taking the brunt of any force from gripping or knocking the ring so that the diamonds are less vulnerable. Although I wonder if I can ask/confirm that the bead set walls are made high enough to offer protection. The potential gaps between stones were exactly why I am debating bead set because it too drives me crazy!

I’m fine with a gap. The flush set bezel rings, after much consideration, read too modern to me (unless they have a very tapered but intricate gallery). I did specify that the bezels be tapered so that the donuts are smaller to minimize the gap, but I kinda like the idea of a small space.

I have a channel set band and managed to crack a diamond. I tend to be rough on my jewelry though. That said, I have not had any of my stones move or gap in my band. HTH.