Update: Decided Not to Recut my Heirloom 4.07 H SI1 Round, Brought it to GIA

[gemshow]

Hi all,

An update to this thread has been long overdue:

Thread 'Vintage 4.5ish Carat Round (with Tapered Baguettes) to Reset. Should I Consider Recutting?'

May 20, 2024

I’ve very gratefully come to own an heirloom round with tapered baguettes weighing, I'm told, approx. 4.5 carats and am considering reworking it (with the gifter’s permission).

Ultimately I'd like to send the center stone to the GIA for grading (I don't have specs) and then reset it:
-as low as possible for aesthetics and wearability, and
-in a setting to subtly give the round the slightest suggestion of squarer or cushiony appearance. Nothing approaching illusion setting or a halo, just prongs proportioned and shaped with this aim in mind. Maybe double claw. Maybe a hair bulkier than...

• gemshow
• Replies: 41
• Forum: RockyTalky (Diamond Discussion)

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I decided not to re-cut, or even tempt myself by evaluating for re-cut, the heirloom stone I was gifted by a family member.
I had the diamond removed from its setting and I brought it to GIA for full evaluation and laser inscription.

The proliferation of large, perfect, lab-grown diamonds I'm seeing influenced my decision, along with the fact that the piece is a family heirloom, and I'm generally inclined toward preservation in all design endeavors.

Still, I think about having a new setting made in the same style with revised proportions to make it more wearable. I prefer all stones to be set as low as possible, and since this feels enormous to me, I think it's even more important. I'd also like to see if the prongs could be shaped to subtly reduce the "door knob" appearance this has on my hand.
On the other hand, this is a special, fully intact vintage piece which has been passed down through generations and I'm hesitant to mess with it's vintage integrity. I'll continue waffling.

I do wonder how much the setting's proportions could be improved in the same style and I welcome your thoughts.

Either way, at this point this this will be more special occasion than everyday wear for me.

GIA's findings are below. I was surprised by the clarity, as even with a loupe (30 and 60x) I didn't see many inclusions.

I was also initially shocked by the color when I came into possession, as when I first laid eyes on it as a child it wasn't properly cleaned and the stone actually looked quite warm.

 

[lala646]

Oh my gosh, I wouldn't touch it! The setting is beyond classic, and to me is perfection with that stone. If it's going to be for special occasions, as you say, then I say leave it as is and enjoy the spectacular gift.

 

[lavenderdragonfly23]

I’m so glad you decided to leave the stone as is… it’s beautiful!

The setting seems very tall to me, and I personally would see if a jeweler can rework the prongs so the stone can be set lower. A couple mm can make all
The difference when it comes to height and if it results in it becoming a daily piece for you I would absolutely look into it! I think lowering the stone and doing double claw prongs would give you the cushiony look you are after.

Here’s an example of a round with double claws. It’s a 4.10ct oec Cartier ring. The style is very simple and classic.

 

[lulu_ma]

Very pretty stone! If you decide to reset, please keep the vintage setting in case you ever change your mind!

 

[MMtwo]

I’m so glad that you decided to keep it as it is. It is absolutely fabulous.! The size looks fantastic on your finger too.

 

[Texas Leaguer]

It's highly informative to have the GIA report. I completely understand your thought process and preservationist bent. The good thing is that you reserve your option to explore the recut in the future!

Since one of your concerns was wearability, and since you have a better understanding of the internal and external features by having had the GIA report done, you might want to consider a bezel setting. That would give you some peace of mind as the feathers and naturals are pretty well confined to the girdle.

And just for future consideration, the fact that they are located where they are, a re-cut could benefit the stone in more ways than just light performance. The diameter is going to have to come off anyway in order for the crown height to be increased. You might even get a clarity grade to VS2.

To add, you would not necessarily have to re-cut to AGS0 to improve both light performance and durability (and possibly clarity grade).

 

[Dreamer_D]

Amazing. I adore it as is, but I want you to set it however it needs so you can wear it every day. Why not?? You are so lucky to have this.

I am not sure your setting is so high after all. In this image the curlet looks quite close to the bottom.



You could lower it a bit by creating a setting with a larger donut at the bottom of the basket. But that would require remaking the whole basket at minimum. I don’t think this stone can be set lower in this basket. But also, I am not sure you should do that anyway. Generally I think a diamond looks best set at a height where the culet is a hairs breadth above any bands you might wear with it. Which yours already is.

But I would not try to butcher this setting no matter what. Remake it with a larger basket and the stone set so the culet is just above the skin. Together, the larger basket and lower set might make it feel more grounded on your finger. Then wear it every day! You owe it to all us diamond lovers to do that lol

 

[Patty]

It’s a beautiful ring and I can understand you not wanting to change it, but I also see Bryan’s point that you could possibly increase the clarity and durability of the stone with a recut.

I love the setting it’s in and don’t think it’s too high at all, but I do love a higher setting.

Am I reading correctly that the appraiser last year said that it had a 59% table and GIA gave it a 65%?

 

[gemshow]

It’s a beautiful ring and I can understand you not wanting to change it, but I also see Bryan’s point that you could possibly increase the clarity and durability of the stone with a recut.

I love the setting it’s in and don’t think it’s too high at all, but I do love a higher setting.

Am I reading correctly that the appraiser last year said that it had a 59% table and GIA gave it a 65%?

Yes, good eye about the table!

 

[gemshow]

I’m so glad you decided to leave the stone as is… it’s beautiful!

The setting seems very tall to me, and I personally would see if a jeweler can rework the prongs so the stone can be set lower. A couple mm can make all
The difference when it comes to height and if it results in it becoming a daily piece for you I would absolutely look into it! I think lowering the stone and doing double claw prongs would give you the cushiony look you are after.

Here’s an example of a round with double claws. It’s a 4.10ct oec Cartier ring. The style is very simple and classic.

This is exactly the sort of things I'm considering.

 

[stepcutnut]

I think she is lovely and the setting so classic, but if the setting is keeping you from wearing and enjoying her by all means look into setting her in a way you can get lots of enjoyment out of her! Wear her in good health

 

[oncrutchesrightnow]

It’s pretty!

Agree you should keep the original setting even if you reset the stone.

If the height is what is keeping you from wearing it then don’t be afraid to reset it. Tell the designer that you know it’s a tall stone but you want the feel of a lower setting — sometimes adding more to a design counterintuitively makes it seem lower since it looks less ring-pop-y.

If it is just for occasional wear then wait and see.

 

[canuk-gal]

HI:

Thanks for the update!

cheers--Sharon

 

[Lookinagain]

I would keep it as is. As @Dreamer_D said, the culet looks pretty close to the bottom. Unless you want a reset with a more open bottom and the culet pretty much touching your finger, I don't think you will get a low profile ring even with a reset.