Subpar craftmanship :( Need advice!

[inlove4cs]

Hello ps’ers Looking for some advice for a frustrating journey! I apologize in advance if it’s long winded..

My boyfriend and I recently got engaged, he picked out a lovely RB 1.2 carat diamond and I picked out the setting at a local jewellery shop. The setting is a four prong cathedral solitaire with a 2.5mm shank that tapers towards the diamond, and a surprise diamond on either side of the ring where the 4 prongs meet. When we met with the jeweler/owner of store, the only stipulations we really had was 1) to modify the ring so that a straight wedding band could fit as close as possible to it, and 2) for us to be able to see the entire diamond, ie. see the culet. He said not a problem, instead of a 2.5mm shank, we’ll increase it slightly to 2.7 mm, and the tunnel that holds the surprise diamond, that juts out from the shank, will be filed down by hand so that a wedding band will be less than 1 mm away from the e-ring.

Fast forward to the day the ring is ready: It’s beautiful, looks great on my hand, he respected my desire to be able to wear a wedding band alongside with minimal gap, and I am happy. However, there are some flaws that I catch upon closer observation.

1) There is a pinprick dent at the top of one of the prongs. It’s small but noticeable.

2) The space between the shank and the shoulders of the cathedral setting, is not polished. It was dull grey and again, not noticeable from afar, but as the wearer looking at it, it’s a contrast from the polished exterior.

3) Along the shank under the shoulders of the setting, instead of being a smooth edge, there is an uneven patch along the edge that I felt should definitely been caught, and easily smoothed out.

4) The diamond’s culet was buried (by a very minuscule amount, we’re talking maybe .5mm), you could see that the jeweler had drilled a tiny hole into the metal below to accommodate it. This may have stemmed from when he sent us the CAD drawing, showing a diamond mounted sky high with ample space under it, we're talking another diamond can fit under it, and I replied asking for it to be much lower and that I'd defer to his judgment. However, I still thought this implied that the culet would be visible from the profile.

5) Where they had hand filed the tunnel that holds the surprise diamond, they seemed to have filed one side of the tunnel a bit more and left it with a tiny gash (the jeweler called it a “tool-mark”)

Suffice it to say, I wasn’t satisfied with the craftsmanship.

I went back to the owner and prefaced it by saying how much I love the ring but there are some tiny changes that I would like fixed. As I listed the details of the tool marks, and rough edges, and raising the diamond just a touch, he just kind of stayed quiet, and when he did answer me, he seemed annoyed as if I were being a difficult customer… at the end of the meeting, he said he would try to fix the things that bothered me and that then jokingly told me “you have a good eye!” to which I wanted to say, your jeweler should have a better one!

Days go by, and I try to get in touch to get updates on the work being done and when I could expect it. I get responses such as “we're trying to fix all the things that were bothering you” and “it went well, I think you will love it” without any details really..

Finally comes the day that it’s ready to be picked up. He is in a much better mood than the last time I met him and as he presents me the ring he tells me that they remade the whole ring. I look at it and comment how beautiful it is, the polish is spot on and everything looks smooth. Sidenote: he then apologizes if he seemed off the last time we met as he had just gotten news of a tragedy in his family..

My impressions of the ring: For one, the shank seems to be a bit skinnier (it was supposed to be 2.7mm but this doesn’t seem to measure more than 2.5 mm) and they did not modify the tunnel like we originally discussed so that a wedding band could sit closer. Now it seems that there would be a gap of 1.5mm instead of the less than 1mm discussed. The diamond is indeed higher, with about 1 mm of free space under it, and frankly I don’t like how it has made the setting look tall and skinny, I wanted the diamond’s culet to clear the metal but not be this high. And my final observation is that one of the prongs is not fully in contact with the diamond’s girdle. I should have pointed out these things when I was at the shop but when he started discussing the tragedy, we got sidetracked and I didn’t feel right pointing out what I noticed at the time.

So once again, I am making a trip to the see the owner this time with my boyfriend for some support… but I was looking for opinions on what issues I would be justified to make.

1) I want for the agreed upon gap to be less than 1mm which would mean filing down the tunnel and making the shank 2.7mm as discussed (which also might just mean making a brand new ring once again)

2) I want the prong to be fixed so that the diamond is in full contact with it for safety - this I believe is non-negotiable on his part.

3) I want the diamond set lower as I only wished to have the entire diamond visible and not buried. This request I recognize as a communication error as I should have been clear not to make it that high. (I did write in an earlier email at one point that I didn’t want to the diamond to be set too high, and I just wanted a fraction of space between culet and metal, but I guess I wasn’t clear enough.)

Do these sound reasonable? Most likely if I stick to the 2.7mm shank that I want, I'm guessing he'll have to remake the ring entirely again. Can I still ask for them to lower the diamond in this case? Or should I have to pay for that repair? I can’t help but feel like I’m going to be written off as a picky and difficult customer … What would you do in my situation?? The ring is pretty as is, but just not 100% to my liking. If I could just get the design of the original ring, (with the diamond raised just enough to clear the culet and the craftsmanship of the second……I would be happy!!

Your advice is truly appreciated, thanks for reading! I'm having trouble posting pictures to show what I mean. Hopefully will edit the post later to include them! ETA: see avatar for what it would ideally look like

 

[HappyNewLife]

I've been in a situation like this, and unfortunately I ended up with a ring I didn't love (which I eventually sold). I think it's worth a third try (yes, bring your BF), but beyond that it might just be time for a more experienced jeweler. It would have been smart on his part to provide you with another CAD and wax molds before making two rings that are basically a waste of his time (and probably some resources)

 

[inlove4cs]

I've been in a situation like this, and unfortunately I ended up with a ring I didn't love (which I eventually sold). I think it's worth a third try (yes, bring your BF), but beyond that it might just be time for a more experienced jeweler. It would have been smart on his part to provide you with another CAD and wax molds before making two rings that are basically a waste of his time (and probably some resources)

Thank you for your reply, and your "support" in trying a third time.. I will definitely bring up your suggestion on making a CAD for the next try, hopefully he is receptive. He advertises a 100% satisfaction guarantee and boasts excellent craftsmanship.. so I hope he is willing to back it up

Thanks again!

 

[Crazie4Cuts]

Just another thought, bring a super enlarge picture of your inspiration setting and show him that. I would be careful on being too critical though of the remade setting. I would also make a list of exactly what you want to have done and hope he would be open to remake/redo your setting to your liking. Then maybe see if he could have you approve the changes by signing off the CAD or wax mold. Hope it goes well and let us know.

 

[inlove4cs]

Just another thought, bring a super enlarge picture of your inspiration setting and show him that. I would be careful on being too critical though of the remade setting. I would also make a list of exactly what you want to have done and hope he would be open to remake/redo your setting to your liking. Then maybe see if he could have you approve the changes by signing off the CAD or wax mold. Hope it goes well and let us know.

Thank you for the suggestions! When I first saw the ring setting in person it was pretty much what I was looking for save for those 2 modifications I requested. He later sent me a CAD drawing of my ring with notes saying how the tunnel would be hand filed, the width enlarged, and the diamond visible from the sides. I did not like his CAD though!! It was alarmingly "sterile" looking with rigid straight prongs and shoulders and that sky high diamond! So I replied with the modifications I wanted and I also sent him my inspiration picture. He reassured us that it would look just like the picture... Which it did except for the blemishes and the buried culet.

Do you have a suggestion on how to not come off as overly critical? I was thinking of again, thanking him for taking the time to remake the ring however I noticed that the width and tunnel were not modified this time to accommodate a wedding band... I would also bring up the prong that's not holding the diamond fully, and if at that point he suggests remaking the ring, I'll also mention setting the diamond lower if possible, with exact instructions..

Thank you for the advice once again and I'll provide updates as they come. Will be seeing him on Saturday...

 

[Crazie4Cuts]

Perhaps give him a call before you go and visit to explain that while the remade setting is more of your liking, but there's a couple of modifications you wanted to have done and you are coming today to discuss. Let him know what time you are coming and that your fiancé is joining you!

Your jeweler may try to convince you to accept your ring the way it is, so you either will need to compromise or hold your ground. If you are not satisfied then you may have to come right out and say, it really isn't what you wanted, and you prefer to have the setting remade again. You may have to be frank and be direct. If he is unwilling, be prepared to ask for a refund, pay for the next setting, or keep what you have.

I do think that your jeweler after reading your post above was trying very hard to satisfy you and provide CADs. I think though after speaking with him about the modifications you should have seen the FINAL CADs for approval before he made it.

I know it's too late not, but you could have asked here about the original CADs and others would have commented on what could have been done to make sure you received what you got.

I hope it goes ok for you today!

 

[whitewave]

Can we see some pictures?

 

[inlove4cs]

Can we see some pictures?

Hi,
I just figured out how to post pictures.. here you go Sorry, they are not very hi-def shots

Ring before:

It's not very clear but this shows the original height, with the culet buried a tiny smidge into the metal below.


This is it, head-on. Pardon the toilet.


This is a close-up where I'm trying to demonstrate the pinprick dent (see bottom right prong tip)
As well, along the shank just under the left "shoulder" you can see there's an uneven ridge. The space under the shoulder was also not polished. I did not have a picture of the gash in the tunnel that I mentioned..

Ring, redone:
View attachment 599520
Culet is definitely visible (but with almost 1 mm clearance under.. I found out today that he used the head/basket of a larger diamond in order to have prongs longs enough to raise the diamond.) Not crazy about how high it has become as I just wanted the culet to clear the metal and I feel there is so much air space around the diamond that it looks a bit funny.


The prong in which the diamond is not seated properly.


View head-on. Could not demonstrate the gap that it creates when a wedding band is besides it... but the jeweler did not modify ring 2.0 like he did with the first version.

 

[inlove4cs]

UPDATE:
So today, my boyfriend and I went to back the the jeweler's and this was the response I got.

Regarding the prong issue: The owner's answer was... meh. He said that his jeweler mentioned that our diamond was cut unevenly and so for it to sit level it was mounted that way.. He also said that the chip in the girdle that's being hidden under a prong, affected the mounting. I don't know how I feel about this explanation because the original ring was set fine to me with no prong issues.

The gap issue: He said that since I said that it was important to see the entire diamond, they used larger basket/head (one that would accommodate a slightly larger diamond) whereas the original head was meant for a 1 carat diamond. And because of this, the tunnel that holds the surprise diamond is proportionally longer. Therefore they cannot file it to accommodate a gap alongside a wedding band less than 1mm. My response to this was before committing to remaking the ring completely and using a larger head, they could have notified me to let me know that my other requirement would not be respected.

Another thing, I mentioned that the ring seemed thinner than the 2.7mm that was indicated on the CAD. His response was that the end result is never exactly the same as the CAD since the jeweler has to file and polish etc.. so it can vary by .25mm or so....

Sidenote: When I brought him back the first ring, I also asked for it be resized from a 5.5 to 5.75 - he said it would cost 75-80$. When I got the ring back, I asked him how much the sizing cost and he said "it's on the house!" When I tried it back at home, it was still really tight, but I chalked it up to being a bit swollen. When we went in today I asked him to check the size on his mandrel and it seems that the ring was never resized to begin with and that it got lost in the details.

The height issue: This is where it looks promising for me.. We mention that we feel like the diamond was raised too high for our liking (however I take part of the blame for not being more precise with my request). At this point, the owner proposes that he can take the basket/head of the last ring (but redone) and dip the prongs to make them a tiny bit longer as well as file down the tunnel. Then he will reattach it to the current shank. This would pretty much keep the design proportions I liked of the first ring, and hopefully the finish is acceptable.

He also did mention in the course of our discussion that we could get a refund. So that option is also on the table...

My boyfriend thinks we should try one more time and I did get the feeling that the owner really was trying to understand what I wanted and that he wanted to make sure I was happy. We made it clear exactly what we we expected if we go ahead with a 3rd attempt. I asked if it would be possible to see a CAD beforehand but he said that the CAD would not change since it'll be exactly the same as the first one but the height of the diamond will be determined by the setter.

Any thoughts?

Thanks for reading through my novel.

 

[Crazie4Cuts]

Third time a charm? I don't know, but I am not getting a good vibe about this. Did you know when you gave your diamond to your jeweler that you were aware of the 'chip' in the girdle? Did you have your diamond graded by GIA /AGS showing that there was a 'chip' on the plot diagram?

I don't know about setting the diamond, but that one picture shows that the prong was not correctly set, not sure if I buy his explanation. He also lied about resizing the ring and passed that off. If you hadn't gone in to have it checked on the ring mandrel, you have thought he was a great guy and did you a favor!

I also am not an expert, but will swapping out heads and putting the original head back on, will that weaken the ring? He will need to polish that area again and rework the prongs. I know that platinum prongs can be reworked, but if it is 14k, I am unsure.

It's up to you, but I'm hesitant, I would get a refund. I am glad he did offer that to you when you saw him today. I just want for you to have a happy experience and love your ring, not remembering how many times you visited your jeweler to get it right to your satisfaction!
-C4C

 

[inlove4cs]

Third time a charm? I don't know, but I am not getting a good vibe about this. Did you know when you gave your diamond to your jeweler that you were aware of the 'chip' in the girdle? Did you have your diamond graded by GIA /AGS showing that there was a 'chip' on the plot diagram?

I don't know about setting the diamond, but that one picture shows that the prong was not correctly set, not sure if I buy his explanation. He also lied about resizing the ring and passed that off. If you hadn't gone in to have it checked on the ring mandrel, you have thought he was a great guy and did you a favor!

I also am not an expert, but will swapping out heads and putting the original head back on, will that weaken the ring? He will need to polish that area again and rework the prongs. I know that platinum prongs can be reworked, but if it is 14k, I am unsure.

It's up to you, but I'm hesitant, I would get a refund. I am glad he did offer that to you when you saw him today. I just want for you to have a happy experience and love your ring, not remembering how many times you visited your jeweler to get it right to your satisfaction!
-C4C

Thanks, crazie4cuts. The chip on the girdle was known to us (should have specified that), we procured the diamond from a family ring and later got it certified. Regardless, the explanation he gave for the prong issue sounds off..

He also told us that the previous ring was scrapped and that he'd make a brand new head. So that's a plus.

I didn't get the impression that he lied about resizing the ring (but who knows at this point!!) it certainly didn't give me confidence in his services. He didn't apologize for forgetting however, he just brushed it aside and said that it got lost in the detail.

I am leaning towards a refund but to be honest we are both ashamed to ask for a one.. neither of us look forward to facing him again to get the stone back.. my boyfriend is all for giving him a 3rd shot since it's all been laid out on the table and the easiest route. But as you said, it's left a sour taste in my mouth at this point.

Anyway, I'll update this thread with what the final decision is. I appreciate your helpful responses. This is my first thread on pricescope so it's been nice to have the support! I guess worse comes to worse I'll be looking for a new ring and posting for some ideas here

Have a great night!

 

[rockysalamander]

Good luck!

 

[LLJsmom]

Good luck as well. You seem to have a well meaning jeweler. However your requests may seem to be a bit beyond his capability, not that your requests are unreasonable. They just seem exacting and not all jewelers can meet your standard. If #3 doesn’t get you there and you decide not to settle, you should go through the vendors here and see if any of the PS vendors may be able to do a better job.

 

[SimoneDi]

I agree with others that the jeweler you are working with seems willing, however, given the history so far and your attention to detail, I highly doubt that he will be able to meet your expectations. I am not sure if you even mentioned what the setting cost, but I am not terribly impressed by quality based on the pictures you shared. I am sorry if this is too forward, I really don't mean to offend your ring, just providing general observations. The head I find to be too bulky, probably due to it being intented for a larger stone, but still. Other jewelers (especially the PS proffered ones) are able to meet client's requirements even when such requirements are detailed and "picky". The prongs I also find to be overwhelming a little. Your setting reminds me of a Vatche setting, I am not sure if that is where the inspirations came from, but have you thought about trying a Vatche setting? I can't remember the style without the pavè, but this is 1018 and here is a pic of the profile:

I am not sure where you are located, but IDJ in NYC can source you just the setting and even ship it to you. Their pricing is very competitive as well.
My advice will be to get the refund and either explore the Vatche option or a custom project with a PS recommended designer who will be able to meet your expectation. Btw if your jeweler offered a refund, to me that indicates that he is doubtful that he will be able to meet your requirement and rather cut his losses now.

 

[inlove4cs]

I agree with others that the jeweler you are working with seems willing, however, given the history so far and your attention to detail, I highly doubt that he will be able to meet your expectations. I am not sure if you even mentioned what the setting cost, but I am not terribly impressed by quality based on the pictures you shared. I am sorry if this is too forward, I really don't mean to offend your ring, just providing general observations. The head I find to be too bulky, probably due to it being intented for a larger stone, but still. Other jewelers (especially the PS proffered ones) are able to meet client's requirements even when such requirements are detailed and "picky". The prongs I also find to be overwhelming a little. Your setting reminds me of a Vatche setting, I am not sure if that is where the inspirations came from, but have you thought about trying a Vatche setting? I can't remember the style without the pavè, but this is 1018 and here is a pic of the profile:

I am not sure where you are located, but IDJ in NYC can source you just the setting and even ship it to you. Their pricing is very competitive as well.
My advice will be to get the refund and either explore the Vatche option or a custom project with a PS recommended designer who will be able to meet your expectation. Btw if your jeweler offered a refund, to me that indicates that he is doubtful that he will be able to meet your requirement and rather cut his losses now.

Thanks for your input, and I appreciate you being straight forward The design of the ring is one that he carries in store, however I first saw this style of ring at a Birk's store

but opted for this jeweller since Birks won't sell their settings unmounted. Did you find the first version of the ring to still look bulky?

This is another angle of it (the first ring) I liked the first head better, and as you said, to me the second one looked bulky and ill-fitting. The setting costs ~1350 CAD (platinum) which would be ~1053 USD.. Would you say that's overpriced? And yes I do tend to have a knack at locating any "imperfection" in my ring sans loupe lol. What's girl to do... it's a relatively simple 4 prong solitaire, there's not that many details to get lost in

Thank you for bringing that Vatche setting to my attention! I had only encountered a Scott Kay version. I scoured pricescope for a long time and came across many jewellers that looked promising (Mark Morrell's Sunburst or Brian Gavin's Tiffany style half round would have been two of my favorites) but I found the idea of shipping my diamond off to be daunting... If it comes down to the refund, I might revisit the idea of going online. I also noticed that jamesallen has a 25% off sale.. hmm

 

[rockysalamander]

You are a very kind and patient soul. I would take the refund and walk at this point. I'm with @SimoneDi that I don't think your details-oriented nature and this jeweler really work together. I say this as a highly detail oriented person....so zero judgement. I would not like to see your old diamond set and unset more than absolutely necessary. I've shipped off my diamonds many times with no worries.

Here are a few other rings with a bezel set surprise stone.

Ritani 7624


Whiteflash Comfort Fit Surprise Solitiare
https://www.whiteflash.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/comfort-fit-surprise-diamond-ring-183.htm


Verragio Classic (diamond lower, but protected by shank that is thicker than area under the gallery)
https://www.whiteflash.com/engageme...agio-939r7-solitaire-engagement-ring-3644.htm

 

[SimoneDi]

Thanks for your input, and I appreciate you being straight forward The design of the ring is one that he carries in store, however I first saw this style of ring at a Birk's store

but opted for this jeweller since Birks won't sell their settings unmounted. Did you find the first version of the ring to still look bulky?

This is another angle of it (the first ring) I liked the first head better, and as you said, to me the second one looked bulky and ill-fitting. The setting costs ~1350 CAD (platinum) which would be ~1053 USD.. Would you say that's overpriced? And yes I do tend to have a knack at locating any "imperfection" in my ring sans loupe lol. What's girl to do... it's a relatively simple 4 prong solitaire, there's not that many details to get lost in

Thank you for bringing that Vatche setting to my attention! I had only encountered a Scott Kay version. I scoured pricescope for a long time and came across many jewellers that looked promising (Mark Morrell's Sunburst or Brian Gavin's Tiffany style half round would have been two of my favorites) but I found the idea of shipping my diamond off to be daunting... If it comes down to the refund, I might revisit the idea of going online. I also noticed that jamesallen has a 25% off sale.. hmm

Thank you for sharing addition details about the other options that you considered! To answer your question, both settings look bulky to me. I personally really dislike large prongs, they remind me of Mickey Mouse ears (lol) but that is me, not saying that other people don't like them. The left and right sides between the bridge and the basket/shank seem uneven to me, but that could be just the picture. Overall for the amount of money, I think that you deserve a ring which is to make you happy every day, not to bug your detail-oriented eye. BGD Tiffany style tapered is one of my favorite solitaires and I was going to mention something else, I held back, but now that you are mentioning BGD.. have you thought about getting that chip repaired? I have recut two stones and I am just sending a third one to BGD for recut. My first engagement ring was an heirloom and it had a large chip, Brian was able to fix it and the stone looked amazing. I am sending him now another diamond with a very, very small chip for repair. I am sure that he can just do a partial repair as well, if you don't want a full recut. The reason I am mentioning is that I personally would not want to have the pressure of a prong agaist a chip, as that may increase the damage in the long term. Your diamond already looks beautiful, but a repair option may be worth exploring. Do not be afraid to ship your stone, many vendors (bgd included) can provide you with an insured FedEx label (you just have to pay for it).

I also like all of the settings that @rockysalamander recommended. I think that you will have a lot more options if you break ties with your current jeweler, but in the end the decision is yours.

 

[inlove4cs]

You are a very kind and patient soul. I would take the refund and walk at this point. I'm with @SimoneDi that I don't think your details-oriented nature and this jeweler really work together. I say this as a highly detail oriented person....so zero judgement. I would not like to see your old diamond set and unset more than absolutely necessary. I've shipped off my diamonds many times with no worries.

Here are a few other rings with a bezel set surprise stone.

Ritani 7624


Whiteflash Comfort Fit Surprise Solitiare
https://www.whiteflash.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/comfort-fit-surprise-diamond-ring-183.htm


Verragio Classic (diamond lower, but protected by shank that is thicker than area under the gallery)
https://www.whiteflash.com/engageme...agio-939r7-solitaire-engagement-ring-3644.htm

Thank you for the incredibly kind words! I "felt" your quiet support, and it's nice to now have your input! It's also great to hear from a fellow detail-oriented person Thank you for the links you shared; I found the Verragio setting to be very pretty! I have a lot of research to do now..

 

[inlove4cs]

Thank you for sharing addition details about the other options that you considered! To answer your question, both settings look bulky to me. I personally really dislike large prongs, they remind me of Mickey Mouse ears (lol) but that is me, not saying that other people don't like them. The left and right sides between the bridge and the basket/shank seem uneven to me, but that could be just the picture. Overall for the amount of money, I think that you deserve a ring which is to make you happy every day, not to bug your detail-oriented eye. BGD Tiffany style tapered is one of my favorite solitaires and I was going to mention something else, I held back, but now that you are mentioning BGD.. have you thought about getting that chip repaired? I have recut two stones and I am just sending a third one to BGD for recut. My first engagement ring was an heirloom and it had a large chip, Brian was able to fix it and the stone looked amazing. I am sending him now another diamond with a very, very small chip for repair. I am sure that he can just do a partial repair as well, if you don't want a full recut. The reason I am mentioning is that I personally would not want to have the pressure of a prong agaist a chip, as that may increase the damage in the long term. Your diamond already looks beautiful, but a repair option may be worth exploring. Do not be afraid to ship your stone, many vendors (bgd included) can provide you with an insured FedEx label (you just have to pay for it).

I also like all of the settings that @rockysalamander recommended. I think that you will have a lot more options if you break ties with your current jeweler, but in the end the decision is yours.

Yes I see what you're saying.. I think I read somewhere that if I go with 4 prongs it would be better to go for thicker sturdier ones? But I guess if they aren't mounted correctly, then it wont matter how thick they are :p Oh and by the way, when I discussed the prong issue with the owner, he told me that in any case, it takes 2 prongs to fail for the diamond to come lose. I thought it just too one prong...

Regarding the chip on the girdle, I've asked a couple of jewellers and they were not at all concerned with the integrity of the diamond if I simply hide the chip under a prong. Although in my own research I did read that the chip, under pressure of the mount can cause problems later on. So thank you for reminding me the option to get it recut! I've just reached out to BGD regarding their cutting services. Do you remember how much weight you lost from your heirloom diamond after you got it recut?

 

[SimoneDi]

Yes I see what you're saying.. I think I read somewhere that if I go with 4 prongs it would be better to go for thicker sturdier ones? But I guess if they aren't mounted correctly, then it wont matter how thick they are :p Oh and by the way, when I discussed the prong issue with the owner, he told me that in any case, it takes 2 prongs to fail for the diamond to come lose. I thought it just too one prong...

Regarding the chip on the girdle, I've asked a couple of jewellers and they were not at all concerned with the integrity of the diamond if I simply hide the chip under a prong. Although in my own research I did read that the chip, under pressure of the mount can cause problems later on. So thank you for reminding me the option to get it recut! I've just reached out to BGD regarding their cutting services. Do you remember how much weight you lost from your heirloom diamond after you got it recut?

Hi again just to clarify, I wasn't referencing the number of prongs, just the intricacy with which I prefer to see them executed. Here is a pic of my old ring from BGD. Please bear in mind that this was a very simple stock setting, but he team refined the prongs and they were delicate in real life and not detracting from the center stone.



Regarding recutting, carat loss and diameter loss were minimal (maybe 0.1ct or so and 0.1-0.2mm) and to me each time it was totally worth it! The improvement of the cut was just amazing. For me, it was especially worth it to repair the damage the first time around. I will find my old recut analysis and I will share the results.

P.S. I saw that you started a new thread re your prongs, I do think that it is important to have the stone set properly without any gaps, especially considering that your diamond has some pre-existing damage.

 

[inlove4cs]

Hi again just to clarify, I wasn't referencing the number of prongs, just the intricacy with which I prefer to see them executed. Here is a pic of my old ring from BGD. Please bear in mind that this was a very simple stock setting, but he team refined the prongs and they were delicate in real life and not detracting from the center stone.



Regarding recutting, carat loss and diameter loss were minimal (maybe 0.1ct or so and 0.1-0.2mm) and to me each time it was totally worth it! The improvement of the cut was just amazing. For me, it was especially worth it to repair the damage the first time around. I will find my old recut analysis and I will share the results.

Is that your diamond in the first picture as well? It's gorgeous! Is this one of the stone's that you had recut? Also I appreciate what you mean about your prongs not detracting from the stone.. lovely simple setting!

 

[SimoneDi]

Is that your diamond in the first picture as well? It's gorgeous! Is this one of the stone's that you had recut? Also I appreciate what you mean about your prongs not detracting from the stone.. lovely simple setting!

Same diamond in both pictures. That was one of BGD cushions that I purchased after my first e-ring (which they recut) was stolen. However, both stones they recut got AGS000 or an Ideal cut grade, which was fantastic!

Here is a pic of my original e-ring (the one that had a huge chip) and a picture of the second recut. I would really not hesitate to recut it. I am sending them another stone next week that has a very small chip, probably similar to yours - it can be hidden under a prong, but it honestly really bothers me having it and I would prefer to improve the cut as well. Again, not saying that you have to do it, but something to think about.

 

[inlove4cs]

Hi again just to clarify, I wasn't referencing the number of prongs, just the intricacy with which I prefer to see them executed. Here is a pic of my old ring from BGD. Please bear in mind that this was a very simple stock setting, but he team refined the prongs and they were delicate in real life and not detracting from the center stone.



Regarding recutting, carat loss and diameter loss were minimal (maybe 0.1ct or so and 0.1-0.2mm) and to me each time it was totally worth it! The improvement of the cut was just amazing. For me, it was especially worth it to repair the damage the first time around. I will find my old recut analysis and I will share the results.

P.S. I saw that you started a new thread re your prongs, I do think that it is important to have the stone set properly without any gaps, especially considering that your diamond has some pre-existing damage.

Same diamond in both pictures. That was one of BGD cushions that I purchased after my first e-ring (which they recut) was stolen. However, both stones they recut got AGS000 or an Ideal cut grade, which was fantastic!

Here is a pic of my original e-ring (the one that had a huge chip) and a picture of the second recut. I would really not hesitate to recut it. I am sending them another stone next week that has a very small chip, probably similar to yours - it can be hidden under a prong, but it honestly really bothers me having it and I would prefer to improve the cut as well. Again, not saying that you have to do it, but something to think about.

haha I was confused for a second because the stones in both pictures looked flawless! I couldn't tell what work was done! But the chip is at the 12-1 o'clock position right? Those arrows are distracting!!
Since the diamond we had didn't come with any papers, we sent it off to Gemscan Labs and they gave it an excellent cut rating, however from what I understand the gold standard is probably GIA or AGS. It's my first diamond and sparkles really nicely to me but I don't have anything to compare it to. I definitely wouldn't mind having some of those hearts and arrow patterning as an effect of a recut

 

[SimoneDi]

haha I was confused for a second because the stones in both pictures looked flawless! I couldn't tell what work was done! But the chip is at the 12-1 o'clock position right? Those arrows are distracting!!
Since the diamond we had didn't come with any papers, we sent it off to Gemscan Labs and they gave it an excellent cut rating, however from what I understand the gold standard is probably GIA or AGS. It's my first diamond and sparkles really nicely to me but I don't have anything to compare it to. I definitely wouldn't mind having some of those hearts and arrow patterning as an effect of a recut

Both of these diamond pics are after the recut, so no chips present. Anything that you see is a reflection. Both of these stones were also VS1, so very eye-clean. Both got AGS000 which indicated that the cut was indeed perfect from a light performance point of view.

I am not sure how large your stone is, but their rate is about $350 per carat, which I find pretty reasonable considering the results.

 

[Sunstorm]

OP I would take the advice and recut your diamond first, worry about the setting later. Not only because light performance would be highly improved but honestly yes chips can pose a durability risk; sometimes yes, sometimes not. I personally would not take that risk if it was my diamond because you could end up with no stone in worst case. I have damaged several diamonds myself (chipped the girdle) and I am extremely careful with them since I adore them but I managed to fall badly once and dropped earrings on the floor. Place a chip under a prong is a problem just like placing a risky feather because whenever your jewelry gets hit the pressure will be placed on the prongs first. If anything I would place a chip or a risky feather in between prongs but then of course your chip will be visible. What are the stats of your diamonds? Weight, color, clarity? That can also tell us if it is worth a recut. A very small stone not, anything nice and relatively substantial absolutely yes.

 

[inlove4cs]

OP I would take the advice and recut your diamond first, worry about the setting later. Not only because light performance would be highly improved but honestly yes chips can pose a durability risk; sometimes yes, sometimes not. I personally would not take that risk if it was my diamond because you could end up with no stone in worst case. I have damaged several diamonds myself (chipped the girdle) and I am extremely careful with them since I adore them but I managed to fall badly once and dropped earrings on the floor. Place a chip under a prong is a problem just like placing a risky feather because whenever your jewelry gets hit the pressure will be placed on the prongs first. If anything I would place a chip or a risky feather in between prongs but then of course your chip will be visible. What are the stats of your diamonds? Weight, color, clarity? That can also tell us if it is worth a recut. A very small stone not, anything nice and relatively substantial absolutely yes.

Thank you for your suggestion! The diamond was taken from a family ring and came with no papers, however we got it evaluated by an independent appraiser, and then certified with Gemscan labs. The Gemscan report says it's 1.15 carats (sorry, I wrote 1.2 in my OP), excellent cut, and F in color, and SI-2. The other report from the independent appraiser says G-H, very good cut, l1 (due to chip). I'm guessing the independent appraiser may have made a more accurate assessment as I've heard that Gemscan may be more lax. The dimensions of the ring are 6.67 X 6.63 X 4.23mm which I gather to mean that the diamond is deeper cut and faces up smaller. Do recuts take long to do?

 

[SimoneDi]

@inlove4cs The diamond actually faces up accurately for its weight, I doubt that you will lose much diameter with the recut and I am pretty certain that BGD will keep it above 1ct if the chip is small. The recut takes 4-5 weeks usually and add a little extra time (week or so) if you get it certified by AGS and then set (which I would recommend you do while the diamond is loose). He certification costs $250 plus shipping. In my opinion, the benefits of the recut way outweigh the wait and cost, especially considering the existing damage. I would give BGD a call today and chat with them about the possible recut and reset.

P.S. The diamond which I am now about to send to them is also 1.15ct with a small chip on girdle.

 

[inlove4cs]

@SimoneDi Thanks for the additional info. It is not looking like a very smooth path for me and my diamond.. I chatted with a rep from BGD and to get my diamond to him I will have to get proof that it is insured for them to mount it in their setting. And for me to get insurance on it is proving tricky. Unfortunately JMI does not provide insurance in my province, Quebec. I can add it to my home insurance but they told me that it would not be covered in the event that it gets damaged by a jeweler. If it's stolen, or if I fall and break it are a couple of examples they gave me that are acceptable. But in the hands of a jeweler, they said it should be the jeweler who covers the cost.

Also I looked into Whiteflash and in the their FAQ it states that: Arrangements can be made to set your diamond provided it is certifed by AGS or GIA. Mins is not

On another note: I have fallen in love with DimendScassi's Alessandra
which has similar lines as my ring now. Perhaps I can order this ring and have it set locally since?

If I forego the recutting of the stone, do you think I should ask for the chip to be just adjacent to a prong (so it's sort of hidden from some angles). Or take the risk of covering it with a prong..

 

[HappyNewLife]

that's beautiful! I'm sorry it still hasn't worked out for you with your original jeweler.

I am not a durability expert, so this is based on vanity - I would have the chip covered by a prong

 

[SimoneDi]

@inlove4cs that is rather unfortunate :/

Do you have any family by chance that is located in the US or another province in CA where JMI operates and who's address you can use to establish at least temporary coverage? I don't understand why your insurance would not cover a setting of a stone. Most jewelers would not extend insurance to outside stones.

If you are unable to move forward, I do like the new setting you liked. I would follow Karl's advice and place the chip next to he prong, not under the prong.

Lastly, I will mention that with my first stone that I sent to be recut and set, I had no insurance whatsoever. I just took the risk myself. I would not really advertise the approach as it is risky, but it is an option.