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setting the diamond - what angles are best?

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litebrite

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Feb 11, 2007
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463
By this I mean if you are lucky enough to have an 8* or H&A or even a less well cut RB, does it make a difference if the way the diamond is set, like if one of the arrows point at 12 o'clock, or if they tilt it slightly (not that it is loose, I mean around the y axis if looking at the diamond face up.) Forgive me if I have hard time explaining this (and there is probably a much more technically correct terminology for it), but I noticed that diamonds that are set symmetrically seem to have the most fire (all things being equal.) Specifically, I think they seem brightest when they are symmetrical but not with any arrows pointing at the 12 o clock position. Am I the only one who notices this? Is there a way to indicate to your jeweler that you want it this way, and why don't they set all stones symmetrically, unless they have to hide an inclusion?

not quite symmetrical: http://www.goldenet.com.au/goldenImages/G1908RD130-0-large.jpg
tilted in setting: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/36/Diamond.jpg
beautiful stone but tilted pendant: http://com.pricescope.com/photos/whiteflash/category1038/picture1251.aspx

12 o'clock and symmetrical: www.pricescope.com/hearts_grading_hearts.asp
perfectly symmetrical in how arrows line up with band: http://com.pricescope.com/photos/stones/category1002/picture1950.aspx

also symmetrical: http://www.1diamondsource.com/images/diamonds/Ideal-Hearts-Arrows.jpg
http://www.diamondexchangelondon.co.uk/images/ideal_round2.jpg
great symmetry: http://com.pricescope.com/photos/stones/category1003/picture441.aspx
another great example: http://com.pricescope.com/photos/stones/category1003/picture1703.aspx
 

denverappraiser

Ideal_Rock
Trade
Joined
Jul 21, 2004
Messages
8,744

I always taught my setters to align round stones with the arrows on the compass points. This gives a nice symmetrical look that supports the whole H&A concept. There are exceptions to this, most notably when there is a girdle inscription that you would like to be visible after the stone is set, when there is a durability concern that suggests a particular prong placement or when there’s something near the girdle that the client would like to ‘hide’ under a prong..


Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Appraisals in Denver
 

litebrite

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Feb 11, 2007
Messages
463
Thank you, I knew there was a better way of describing it! Plus I just did a search for compass settings and it bugs at least one other person. Always good to know that I''m not the only detail-obsessed person in the room.
 

N8-Star

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jan 9, 2007
Messages
37
North-South or Off-Set

Those are your two choices. It's a matter of preference. And sometimes, it is helpful if you are trying to hide a feather or inclusion in the setting or under the prong.

Most setters will take that into consideration, but it is a good question to bring up to them. Symmetry is always nice.



Ahh Jazmine beat me to it... I remembered the above post. Great photo description by John.
 

litebrite

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Feb 11, 2007
Messages
463
Yes, that thread with John''s photos was very satisfying. I too like offset but it has to be precise. I won''t have the problem with prongs though since I am getting a bezel setting. Happy long weekend folks
 
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