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Setting Guidance: Designers vs Locals etc.

rockjock1

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 11, 2015
Messages
18
Planned on going to a local jeweler who can do custom work if necessary. As they were closed last week we perused a large local well regarded shop who steered her to tacori vs their own or custom stuff. THANKS!!!! OUCH little did we know the $$$ premium so definitely out. Initially we didn't think much of their styles would suit her. While she initially wanted some antique feel, this was more "dainty". It was a crescent setting of theirs.http://www.tacori.com/2645pr512 ( for round) and did look fantastic. Just had some questions that the salesman indicated were of no concern but I wonder. As a nurse she was concerned that the level of millwork, gaps etc would get junked up easy with all the hand washing and nursing stuff etc True or False? Will millwork markings wear down especially as she may be tough on her ring given the job and she likes to cook a lot as well? (we are likely to choose platinum)

Lastly, while she is rethinking the above design given those concerns I suspect she will end up with a more simple design (for the E ring at least), would well reviewed local jewelers be capable of delivering on a tacori themed option (I realize it will be cast vs forged), or would there be specific people to seek out, I see some threads on here recommending various people. Thanks.
 

ericad

Ideal_Rock
Trade
Joined
Jul 28, 2007
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2,033
I've made several settings for nurses and doctors and the usual concerns are to have a ring that's low set and snag free, for the donning on and off of gloves. I see people generally leaning towards simple designs and full bezel settings for this reason. That being said, many medical professionals wear prong set rings and as long as she cleans it often at home (a simple soak in warm water with dish soap, and a gentle scrub with a toothbrush, will keep it looking great), hand washing, sanitizer, etc. shouldn't pose any problems. It's when the buildup is allowed to accumulate that we see rings looking dull and...shudder...gunked up. I wouldn't worry too much about milgrain and such wearing down - though platinum would be more durable than gold in that respect.

Generally people get more bang for their buck going the custom route. That way you can tailor the details to your liking, and pricing is generally very competitive. There's nothing wrong with a cast piece, in fact I've personally owned both cast and hand forged and greatly prefer cast because it gives you control over every minute detail. High quality cast pieces will be hand finished, with details such as milgrain, etc. done by hand. So the finished result still has a hand crafted heirloom appearance, with the cost savings and control of CAD/Cast.

My advice would be to spend time looking at examples of various jewelers' work to find the one who has the aesthetic you're looking for, and the skill to execute your custom design. Good luck - this will be a fun project!
 

rockjock1

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 11, 2015
Messages
18
Thanks ericad, very helpful and reassuring. We will be seeing a jeweler tomorrow who does a fair amount of customs so I am told. She does want a lower setting ring but the bezel is likely out. I just got to remember my job is to sit on my hands and open the checkbook lol. She's very reasonable, I just have no clue what I am in for if going the custom route.
 

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
57,957
What she does need to understand is that antique style rings with delicate filigree, milgrain edges, etc. need a LOT of TLC. We never recommend doing a lot of cooking, cleaning, working out, hand work, or even sleeping with diamond rings on, period. Many of us have these kinds of rings, but we take them off at home when doing work that could cause wear or damage to the rings (diamonds can and do chip, aside from setting damage). Honestly, if I was a nurse, I would wear my engagement ring to show my friends and then wear a wedding band to work and just wear my engagement ring other times. I would not want to have to have a plain, low set engagement ring that I didn't love just to accommodate gloves and a lot of handwashing at work. I'd rather have a work wedding band and then wear my beautiful set that I love on my own time. I think nurses also have a lot of grasping of various items (trays, equipment, etc) where they could damage delicate rings.

You'll definitely do better with custom than a high end brand like Tacori! Something is wrong if it isn't! However, all custom work is not the same quality. I'd never, ever recommend using a jeweler whose custom work you have not seen and have had it recommended by owners of their custom jewelry. In fact, there is not a single jeweler in the large city near me that I think does the level of work that some of the jewelers I know of from Pricescope do, so I only do custom long distance. I'd recommend seeing what they say and then not making the commitment on that first visit. We also might could help you know who'd be good to make it if we had a better idea of what she wants.
 

rockjock1

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 11, 2015
Messages
18
Thanks for the responses . Just a quick update I went to local jeweler after a brief call & while he said 90% of his work is custom, and I had been expecting him to discuss the custom process and show pictures of previous work she might like..... not so much, he just walked us through styles in his case. As it turns out she definitely wants a more more classic solitaire style, no stones/pave on band etc. We also went to another local jeweler nearby; interestingly they both recommended uniquesettings (one carried Gabriel and liked them a lot but thought unique likely had a larger selection of the less detailed rings) and both seemed to be proponents of white gold (14K at that) over platinum. It became very clear that I was more into finding the perfect setting and more excited about going through a custom process than her. Her plan was to pick out one of the settings from the online catalogues and either have samples delivered or just pick one out and be done with it this week. Very affordable option, well below my targeted budget

In pouring through more pics she liked the basic design of this one with the pave bars:
http://www.uniquesettings.com/products/show/23234
yet it didn't seem to flow as well as some others without the pave so I went on a search for similar designs and WOW came across the vatche caroline
, vatche_caroline.png the minute she saw it she said-that's it!!!
I imagine getting a custom version of this is the best value yet she wants to be done and done! Just got to figure out who can order one of these and whether to choose the 18K (within the budget, or even 14k for more durability?) over platinum (likely over budget but so be it) which I am sure is hotly debated in multiple threads here (please feel free to send me links to any good ones)

Recommendations?: On how and where to buy ? have a local jeweler set it? I know warranty issues likely even with an authorized vatche vendor so I am told.

Thanks for all your help!
 

Gypsy

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Aug 8, 2005
Messages
40,225
Yup. Get the Vatche Caroline. That's perfect. And get it from Vatche. Whiteflash carries Vatche and so does GOG. Get it in platinum.

Gorgeous ring. Perfect choice.
 

MollyMalone

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jun 2, 2013
Messages
3,351
What a wonderful, thoughtful choice! :appl: But since you already have the diamond, I'll suggest you work with a local, authorized Vatche retailer (unless that jeweler's reputation in the community is poor), instead of Whiteflash or Good Old Gold, so you can hand deliver the diamond for dispatch to Vatche.
http://www.dvatche.com/index.php?page=retailers

Plus, it would be nice to begin developing a relationship with a local authorized retailer because that will also make it easier/more convenient to abide by the terms of Vatche's warranty -- which becomes void if a non-authorized jeweler does any work on the ring -- and to have the ring receive routine maintenance.
 

rockjock1

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 11, 2015
Messages
18
Re: Setting Guidance: VATCHE

Cool. Thx Glad it gets the thumbs up! Spoke to the only local authorized dealer in area and getting quotes tomorrow. To be clear we should have vatche set it as opposed to the authorized dealer? Still a little confused on this as I was told by Vatche they do not honor warranty issues unless they actually do the setting/work; then did call Whiteflash who assured me they have set many Vatches and it is covered under the warranty.

Also,I understand I may request the PT alloy from Vatche per some other posts I read. Thoughts 90/10 or 95/5 with ruthenium? Keeping in mind I will likely have band designed /purchased locally.
 

MollyMalone

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jun 2, 2013
Messages
3,351
Re: Setting Guidance: VATCHE

rockjock1|1452226073|3972453 said:
Cool. Thx Glad it gets the thumbs up! Spoke to the only local authorized dealer in area and getting quotes tomorrow. To be clear we should have vatche set it as opposed to the authorized dealer? Still a little confused on this as I was told by Vatche they do not honor warranty issues unless they actually do the setting/work; then did call Whiteflash who assured me they have set many Vatches and it is covered under the warranty. * * *
You're not the only one who's confused by what WF said. It's always been my understanding that Vatche itself expects to be the one to do the original setting of the diamond -- in conjunction with its made-to-order fabrication of the mounting upon receipt of the diamond -- but having subsequent work done by one of its authorized jewelers is fine, i.e., you need not send the ring back to Vatche in NYC for, e.g., resizing.
 

rockjock1

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 11, 2015
Messages
18
Thanks all

Woo hoo, moving forward as local dealer got me reasonable pricing, they said they can either set it there or send to vatche whatever I want, however it is going to take 2 weeks for vatche to create setting. I will ask if Vatche's warranty is the same in all cases yet wouldn't the local jewelerwarranty their own work anyhow? Vatche will have the full specs and GIA info of stone. The reason I am hesitant to send in is a) why take a chance with shipping b) I was thinking I could have the stone temporarily set if they work with me and she can at least wear for the next 2-3 weeks! The reality is I would be hardpressed to envision me ever sending back to vatche in the future with the multitude of capable jewelers here in Boston and particularly one that has been vetted by Vatche?

Finally, I got to figure out what platinum alloy to order? Thoughts/links to more info?

Cheers! I am almost there!!
 
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