Seeking advice - Custom OEC engagement ring broke after one week!!

[JolieSpell]

Hi there! Hoping you guys might have some helpful advice for my situation...

One month ago on 1/13 my fiancé proposed with a beautiful ring. 6 days later one of the French cuts fell out of the setting! He had the ring made in his hometown across the country from us, and against my better judgement we were convinced by the cross-country jeweler to send it to him to repair. He had me mail is registered USPS and it took a full two weeks. I asked him if he could make a few adjustments to the setting:

1) reduce width of band / shank. He achieved this by adjusting the setting of side French cuts.
2) reduce the size of the bead settings on the smaller OECs
3) make the beading on setting less noticeable, like the original ring we were inspired by. The jeweler said this would be possible by “shaving down” the beading a bit

I just received the ring back and I’ve noticed a few flaws. There is a spot in one of the French cuts I didn’t notice before. And one of the sides next two the smaller OECs where the shank connects to setting is noticeably more flat and hammered looking. It’s sloppy. On the edge of the setting there is a small dent so the line isn’t straight and angular as it should be.

My fiancé and I are both very disappointed. Just looking for advice here, was it irresponsible for the jeweler to “shave” / “soften” the beads? How common is it for a ring to break so quickly, what could cause this stone to fall out??

Attached are three photos of my ring. The one in daylight is from before it broke, one after the French cut fell out and another of it today after it’s been fixed.

Original ring:

Damaged ring:


“fixed” ring:

 

[foxinsox]

I can’t see the issues you’re pointing out but I believe they’re real - it’s a lovely ring but difficult to get right. I did want to point out that the elongated stones look like baguette cuts not French cuts in these pictures.. so if you paid for frenchies, you don’t appear to have gotten them. They’re usually a lot more expensive than baguettes too so you may want to check that out.
Your centre OEC is gorgeous and congratulations on your engagement! It’s just a shame this is putting a bit of a dampener on it

 

[JolieSpell]

I can’t see the issues you’re pointing out but I believe they’re real - it’s a lovely ring but difficult to get right. I did want to point out that the elongated stones look like baguette cuts not French cuts in these pictures.. so if you paid for frenchies, you don’t appear to have gotten them. They’re usually a lot more expensive than baguettes too so you may want to check that out.
Your centre OEC is gorgeous and congratulations on your engagement! It’s just a shame this is putting a bit of a dampener on it

Thank you for the congrats it has been a little bit of a bummer. What is the difference between baguette and French cuts?

This jeweler has given us a real run around and I’m OVER IT.

 

[kmoro]

Thank you for the congrats it has been a little bit of a bummer. What is the difference between baguette and French cuts?

This jeweler has given us a real run around and I’m OVER IT.

Does the jeweller have a facebook page? Sometimes a bit of (careful) publicity can go a long way. Back in the old days, before internet, my brother used to call difficult vendors and threaten to post a one page ad in the newspaper, lol. You just need to stick with the facts so that there is no risk of slander. It can be highly effective since these people rely on reputation.

 

[elizat]

French cuts are more expensive than baguettes.

Here is an example:

https://www.langantiques.com/french-cut-diamond-band.html

I am sorry you are unhappy with the repair. I don't see the spot in the baguette, but it could be something under the stone left from the repair. Can you have someone else look at it?

 

[tyty333]

Beautiful setting! I know its just semantics but we would not say that your ring "broke". We would say that you had a stone fall out. This does happen
in new rings occasionally. "Broken" usually refers to a crack in the metal or maybe an issue with the metal. I can not see any flaws in your setting. If you would circle the areas with issues it might help.

Also, with respect to the spot on the french cut can you make sure that the stone is really clean? Is it the same stone that fell out? Could it be polishing
compound on the stone? Can you post an up close picture of what you are seeing?

Did you ask for french cuts? I agree that these look like baguettes to me.

The "beads" are usually what hold in the round pave. I dont think its usually a problem to shave them down if they are large but its up to the
jeweler/bench to know whether the pave is still securely held.

If I were you I would contact the jeweler and discuss the issues. You may need to send it back for a few more adjustments. On the other hand
it may get to the point where "fixing" things may make it worse and the setting may need to be redone from scratch.

With all that being said, I really like the setting. Hope you can get all resolved to your satisfaction!

 

[KKJohnson]

I am very curious if this jeweler labeled baguettes as frenchies

ETA: can we also see the inspiration photo?

 

[Bron357]

Congratulations on your engagement.
And I’m sorry you are going through this, so upsetting and frustrating.
Looking at your ring I see poor craftsmanship all over the place. This design, with beading requires an experienced hand and keen eye for detail and I think this ring was way beyond the jewellers capability.
And if he is calling baguettes “French cuts” - he knows little about diamond cuts!
In the 2nd photo, the baguette at 5 o’clock is missing a hunk of setting framework and I feel that’s another diamond at risk of falling out. The baguette at 7 o’clock is also showing gaps at the setting edge.
Also, it looks from where the diamond fell out, that the setting back is enclosed? This is not a sign of good craftsmanship. Especially seeing as all the setting edges are not 100% covered, gunk and grime is going to get in behind the diamonds (and this is probably the dark mark you can see) and you’ll not be able to clean it. All the diamonds should have an opening behind them so they can refract light correctly and you can clean and muck that attached to them. Diamonds attract muck and if you can’t clean it off they lose sparkle.
Me, I’d bite the bullet now. I feel that the ring needs to be remade entirely but by someone with the required skill level. I just don’t think your jeweller can execute the design. I don’t know how or if you can go about getting a refund, but I’d certainly try. Diamonds are not supposed to fall out mere weeks after receiving and wearing a new ring.
David Klass comes to mind, his work is equisitive.
You deserve a stunning and well made ring. The sick feeling in your stomach you get when you look down and see a diamond missing from your ring is NOT nice and I’m concerned that it won’t be long before another falls out.

 

[JolieSpell]

I am sitting with another jeweler a friend recommended at the moment. He admitted he doesn’t know the diff between baguette and French cuts. Sigh...

Anyway, the appraisal from original jeweler says they are “French cut baguettes”.

 

[JolieSpell]

Also, this jeweler pointed out a chip in the center OEC that the original jeweler did not disclose. Turning into a nightmare!

 

[Bron357]

This is what a “French cut baguette” looks like, yours are just plain baguette cuts.
And the stone that fell out has a small chip to the bottom left corner tip (2nd photo)
And I just noticed in the 3rd photo. The shoulder diamond on the rigt is missing a prong ie another gap where gold should be !
How could a jeweller even “think” that this is satisfactory workmanship (let alone good) when many diamonds are missing parts of their setting frame?

 

[GliderPoss]

It's a beautiful ring, lovely design but I agree the baguettes look very unsafe. Bron is right - I'd attempt to get some refund from your original jeweler & get remade entirely by someone more skilled.

 

[JolieSpell]

This is what a “French cut baguette” looks like, yours are just plain baguette cuts.
And the stone that fell out has a small chip to the bottom left corner tip (2nd photo)
And I just noticed in the 3rd photo. The shoulder diamond on the rigt is missing a prong ie another gap where gold should be !
How could a jeweller even “think” that this is satisfactory workmanship (let alone good) when many diamonds are missing parts of their setting frame?

UGH! I'm going to post a few more images of the ring as it is now. The jeweler I took it to this afternoon said one of the diamonds on the shoulder is loose, he will fix it for me next week after Valentines Day rush.

I am so disheartened by this. Especially to hear that they aren't french cuts after all. What a deceitful jeweler.

 

[JolieSpell]

 

[leukolenos]

Oh dear. I would be hesitant to have anyone else work on it until you address this with the original jeweler, hopefully getting a refund. So many concerning issues here.

 

[JolieSpell]

Photos of the basket from below - the diamonds are not fully encased.

 

[JolieSpell]

I really appreciate all of your help here, guys! I started tearing up in frustration earlier when talking to the second jeweler. To summarize the issues I've experienced and you guys have pointed out:

1. Center OEC has a chip that was NOT disclosed
2. "French cuts" are in fact baguettes
3. After 6 days of wear one of the baguettes fell out of the setting
4. The baguette that fell out has a chip in corner
5. One of the baguettes on the shoulder is loose (confirmed by another jeweler today)
6. There is uneven beading throughout setting after being "softened"
7. There is a noticeable dent on the basket possibly from when the baguette was reset. This would need to be re-soldered.
8. Under the shoulder, the triangle is misshaped - not a straight line, a little curve / bulge/ bump
9. None of the lines are completely straight, which for a very geometric ring is a major design flaw

Trying to get this all straight so I can clearly make the case for a refund to pay for the ring to be remade eventually... Am I missing anything from what you can see?

 

[chamois]

Oh dear. I would be hesitant to have anyone else work on it until you address this with the original jeweler, hopefully getting a refund. So many concerning issues here.

I would echo this too!!!

 

[the_mother_thing]

I would echo this too!!!

Ditto - having anyone else work on the ring may void any chance at warranty/refund on the ring entirely.

Good luck @JolieSpell (hugs)

 

[Bron357]

Take a deep breath. Disappointing and upsetting as this is, it can be made good.
Though not with the original jeweller.
You need to go back to him with the list of your grievances - point out each and every flaw ie all bezel set diamonds need 100% bezel surround, all beading and lined need to be straight and equal sized, the undergallery shapes must be equal and even.
Point out the OEC diamond is chipped, the baguette is chipped, two more diamonds are at risk of falling out because the setting is poorly made and not holding the diamonds secure (which is why 1 already fell out) and this is a ring barely a month old, AND you did NOT get French cut baguettes so that is deceptive and misleading conduct (polite) a bare faced lie (not so polite) so you will be having a full refund of the setting costs and price differential for cost of being supplied with NON French cut baguettes.
Then you send your ring off to someone like David Klass and you get back a breathtakingly beautiful and properly made ring which you can love and cherish for the next 50 plus years.
One day, after you’ve stopped crying and tearing your hair out in frustration, you’ll look back and laugh, well, maybe not laugh but at least no upset and tears.
Deep breath, onwards and upwards.

 

[Bron357]

Show your jeweller this.
This is a cheap $50 CZ ring, cast made, from China.
Yes, even a cheap mass produced ring, sold for $50 on eBay (and the seller is still making a profit) has better proportions and finish than his!
His work, especially after the resetting the baguette (what did he do - mash it in with a fork?) and what did he do to the beading around the centre diamond - file it down with a chainsaw? It is pathetic - sorry but it’s true!

 

[lovedogs]

@Bron357 is 100% right as usual!

 

[GliderPoss]

Just saw this on Insta with CVB Design and thought of you!!!! Maybe contact her?

 

[rockysalamander]

I agree with those above urging you to get a full refund. Do not have this same person re-make the ring. Also, don't have anyone else work on the ring until a refund or the first maker could claim the repairer caused the issues. I'm so sorry, but not every jeweler is capable of executing every design. I just with they'd tell people this up front.

I also agree you have baguettes, not french cuts. Baguettes are a step cut diamond. "The name 'baguette' comes from the French bague. Currently, bague translates as finger ring but, until the seventeenth century, the term was used to indicate jewels in general. Therefore the diminutive 'baguette' is translated as 'small jewel'." https://www.langantiques.com/university/Baguette_Cut

Usually when you see "french baguette" diamonds, it either (1) means a vintage ring made in france containing step-cut baguettes, or (2) they are using french cut diamonds that are elongate.

 

[Rfisher]

Were you able to see previous examples of work from the jeweler that made your ring?
How do they compare?
Were you happy with the look and craftsmanship of the work before the one bag fell out?
As for the center stone- does it have a (reputable) lab report? If so, the chip should be noted, if not - that’s your recourse. If it’s uncerted, it not being disclosed would depend on knowing how the condition/clarity was verbally discussed.
Going back to the original jeweler would be in my opinion akin to being their guinea pig learning curve on how to do their craft better. Your call.
I agree that inserting a different jeweler to fix the ring is counterproductive. Hair stylists/colorists love fixing other salons mistakes. They get to charge high, and are never really responsible 100% for the outcome.
If you are open to suggestions to start over with a new jeweler- let us know your budget all in.
And congratulations on your engagement!

 

[tyty333]

For what it's worth, your inspiration ring looks to have baguettes and not french cuts. Who told you they were french cuts?

 

[Rfisher]

Add JuliaB to the list of jewelers already suggested that could do this ring well for you.

 

[WillyDiamond]

OP
Sorry for the disappointments. I think you will need to strap in on this one, the biggest problem is the center stone, the star of the show. You are saying it is cracked, he will say it was not cracked when it was shipped to you last month and that you did it. I do not see this ending happily. But definitely work with the jeweler. If the center stone is cracked, I don't see how a local jeweler can help you. Sorry for the hard news.

 

[marymm]

OP, first off, I'd like to say your ring is very beautiful and looks good on your finger in terms of proportion and flow.

I also agree there are problems with the setting and the diamonds ... however, I wonder if you have seen the original order/invoice for this project? Possibly the OEC was described as a SI2? Maybe the setting cost paid is reflected in the quality/construction?

Regardless, there seems to be manufacturing defects such that you should be able to pursue a full return/refund, especially considering you already have given the original jeweler a chance to repair and improve the setting defects.

I don't think it would be worthwhile/cost-effective to have anyone else work on the current ring because there are too many issues - it would have to be scrapped anyway.

Once you get your refund, perhaps approach David Klass and request a quote on this same style ring but made to last (i.e., heirloom quality), David likely could source you a beautiful OEC as well.

 

[JolieSpell]

For what it's worth, your inspiration ring looks to have baguettes and not french cuts. Who told you they were french cuts?

Hi- I haven’t posted the inspo, just photos of my ring before and after it was “fixed”.

The inspo was the attached..... clearly proportions are totally off. The single stone Hartley.