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Replace bezel Aqua??

indigoblue

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Dec 7, 2012
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344
Is this possible? I have a sterling silver ring that I like to wear a lot. I bought it on eBay for a couple of hundred dollars because I like the designer (Krypell) and Aqua is my birthstone. But now that all of you have educated me, I can't stand the stone anymore. It's a checkerboard cut aqua with a huge window. Is it possible to replace the stone without destroying the setting? I know the aqua will be destroyed (good riddance), but will the back of the setting need to be opened? Can everything be done from the front? I think the bezel part is 18K YG. Finding a stone with exact dimensions will be tough too, but I have time to look for one and am not particular about color. I just want something that sparkles. It also needs sizing beads to take it down a teeny bit and prevent rolling, but my jeweler wouldn't do that because he was afraid the heat transfer would damage the aqua. He clamped a cheap external sizer on it which scratched the band (you can see the scratches). If I replace the stone, he can add the sizing beads too. Here are pics.
agaquafront.jpg
agaquaback.jpg
agaquaside.jpg
agaquaupsidedown.jpg
 
Here's another shot of the front.
agaquafront2.jpg
 
I'm not a jeweler, but that one looks tough to me. As you said, going from underneath isn't an option. I don't see how a jeweler could get the stone out without destroying at least the gold bezel. If he can do it without damaging the rest of the ring, maybe it's possible to make a new bezel, but the whole project looks iffy to me. Hope somebody with more knowledge can weigh in with better advice.
 
indigoblue|1403628475|3700090 said:
Is this possible? Is it possible to replace the stone without destroying the setting? I know the aqua will be destroyed (good riddance), but will the back of the setting need to be opened? Can everything be done from the front? I think the bezel part is 18K YG. Finding a stone with exact dimensions will be tough too, but I have time to look for one and am not particular about color.

Yes, if you don't mind destroying the existing stone, then replacing it would be quite easy. Are the small white stones in the halo diamonds? Heat shouldn't be required, but it's always nice to know if it can be used should the need arise. I wouldn't mess with looking for the "right size" since having most gems cut to your required size is not all that expensive, (the cutting part anyway). If you have the stone custom cut you get both the right size AND the best possible look for the ring. It looks to me like you do, but you do want to make sure that the setting from the bezel down to the finger has enough room, as not enough room could spell doom for this plan. That stone looks like about 6mm wide, so you'd probably want about 5mm from the top of the bezel to the top of your finger.
 
Thanks for the info, Michael. It hadn't occurred to me to have a stone cut to fit. (Duh!) And as I said earlier, I know the aqua will be sacrificed. That doesn't matter to me at all. And the tiny stones are supposed to be diamonds, but they haven't been tested AFAIK.
 
It's a pretty setting. The workmanship looks nice even from inside the ring.
 
It will be almost impossible to clean the gem from underneath, no matter what you put in there. Pastel stones typically get dirty very easily too.
 
TL, I love your practical advice.
 
It depends on how much you want to spend. If you have a healthy budget, then yes, crack the aqua to remove it, have a stone custom cut to fit and find a VERY good jeweller (who is also willing to work with silver) to redo the bezel to the same level as shown. Some benches will not work with silver at all, even if the bezel portion is gold. If you are on a tight budget, I would leave it as is. I think the workmanship on the ring is very nice. Making a smooth and even bezel is not easy.
 
pregcurious|1403673168|3700618 said:
TL, I love your practical advice.

Thanks, and I think its a pretty setting, but I would put an opaque cab in there. A transparent stone will just get dirty.

The aqua looks very cloudy and hazy, because of this issue with the underneath, and so if the OP gets any other transparent stone, the same thing will happen to the gem's appearance. I bet with a nice hardy cleaning, that aqua will look great in there, but you can't clean it properly as the setting currently stands. If I were the OP, instead of taking the aqua out of there, I would ask the jeweler if he/she could open up the back so the stone could be properly cleaned and maintained. I think that would make a world of difference.
 
It is cloudy and hazy because I didn't clean it before the photo session. I thought about it but didn't want to take the time. It actually cleans up nicely after a short soak and quick scrubbing with a brush (the bristles fit through the holes in the back and sides), but that just makes the window even more transparent. I'll take another picture if you like?
 
OK, it's clean. Does it look great now? I appreciate all of the suggestions, but removing the back for cleaning access isn't an option. The silver looks pretty and gives the ring heft which I like. And the brush bristles go right through the holes and clean the back of the stone.

agaquaclean.jpg
 
indigoblue|1403719736|3700942 said:
OK, it's clean. Does it look great now? I appreciate all of the suggestions, but removing the back for cleaning access isn't an option. The silver looks pretty and gives the ring heft which I like. And the brush bristles go right through the holes and clean the back of the stone.

agaquaclean.jpg

Well in that case, I give you credit for getting in there and being able to properly clean it. It looked like an impossible task from the back side. If you don't like the stone now that its clean, then yes, you should change it out.
 
Great eye, Michael. The exposed dimensions of the aqua are pretty close to 10x6. A chryso might look nice. I'd like a light amethyst, but it might not stand up to daily wear. Guess the exact dimensions for the replacement stone can be determined after the aqua is blasted out. It sure will be nice to see facets in the stone instead of the back of the ring and my finger.
 
The windowed aqua is history. Which replacement stone do you like best? Of course he can cut other stones, but these are a good representative sample. I have a favorite.

Tourmaline
agtourmaline.jpg

Sapphire
agsapphire.jpg

Heliodor
agheliodor.jpg

Spinel
agspinel.jpg
 
I love the look of the tourmaline! I think the rich pink works nicely with the cooler tone of the sterling silver.
 
I like the sapphire and the heliodor, but my heart is loyal to spinel. I really don't think you have a bad choice here though! They all look great!
 
I am partial to the blue sapphire because I think it looks great with the white halo and white metal. The yellow bezel even contrasts nicely with the blue.

However, I think all of the stones look great. Pick your favorite color!
 
The blue sapphire might look best in the pictures because it's the smallest stone and fits behind the bezel nicely for the pictures. Because it's a little too narrow, the bezel would need to be built up to actually hold it in place. As I understand it, the others are better fits for the available space and are lying on top of the bezel. My favorite is the heliodor. I don't have a yellow stone, but I already have a nice sapphire ring.
 
heliodor. very rich.
 
Love the tourmaline and sapphire. They both make the ring look very rich BUT you go with what you like because you'll be the wearer!
 
These are the EXACT colours? I ask because colour accuracy makes a big difference in which one I would pick. That said, in all 4 options shown, there is no wrong choice as all of them look great, so pick your favourite colour.
 
Chrono|1405341582|3712968 said:
These are the EXACT colours? I ask because colour accuracy makes a big difference in which one I would pick. That said, in all 4 options shown, there is no wrong choice as all of them look great, so pick your favourite colour.
From what I understand, the colors are accurate, and my choice should be based on the most reflective colors. All stones except the heliodor were purchased with recuts in mind. The final cut on all stones will look similar to the heliodor. The heliodor has a significant tilt window which will benefit from a recut. The spinel will be recut too which will make it less gray (it is reflecting the silver in the picture). It is probably the brightest and is also harder than the heliodor. Since I would wear it a lot, that is a definite plus. I take off my rings as soon as I get home, so I'm pretty easy on them.

You guys have essentially answered my question. They all look good. I just need to decide whether I want pink, blue, or yellow. And how much I want to spend.
 
Got my ring back today. I went with the rubellite tourmaline. It was a good compromise between cost and looks. If this ring had been made of white gold, I would have been more willing to spend more on a stone. It looks very nice. The sterling silver is so polished and shiny that it's hardly recognizable. The windowing has disappeared. If you look close and know what to look for, you can see some minor tilt windowing, but it's nothing like the old aqua that magnified the back of the ring. Many thanks to Michael E. at the Gem Shoppe.

First the vendor pics.
gs2.jpg
gs01.jpg

And mine
agtourfront02crop.jpg
agtourfrontcrop.jpg
agtoursidecrop.jpg
 
Good choice & great job! It looks terrific -- much better!!
 
That looks fab! Awesome statement piece.
 
It's a different ring! Great choice :appl: :))
 
Congratulations! It looks great!
 
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