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bullmarket12

Rough_Rock
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
25
I've researched as much as I can. I've come to the conclusion that I'm going to go with Excellent/Ideal cut, SI1(or better), I (or better), very good symmetry, round, and .8 carats. I think this is the most bang for my buck. I have around $4k to spend. Thoughts?


And what's the best place online to buy it? Feel free to link to other similar threads or stickies as I'm strapped for time due to long hours at work.
 

bullmarket12

Rough_Rock
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
25
I just wanna say THANK YOU!!!!! I've been researching for about a half year now..and this is the first time I've heard of any of those sites. I was working with a jeweler, but he was asking for too much money IMO. He's very knowledgeable and has a tremendous reputation, but I need bang for my buck. Here's a snippet of his philosophy...
# IA or AGS graded: WHO graded the diamond you’re buying is incredibly important, b/c not all labs have the same grading standards. GIA & AGS are the world’s top labs, w/ the strictest standards. All other labs exaggerate/embellish the grades they give. Meaning, if the diamond isn’t a GIA or AGS, the diamond is not as good as the diamond report would indicate, and you’re most likely overpaying by a significant amount.
# GIA Excellent or AGS Ideal Cut grade: The cut determines 98% of a diamond’s sparkle. So, it is easily the #1 “must have” in a diamond. An excellent/ideal cut diamond can have 50% more sparkle than a “good” cut. So, the cut quality is incredibly important.
# D – H color, possibly I: As long as we stick to H or better, the diamond will look blazing, bright white. Once we hit I-color, there is a faint tinge of yellow. But, it is not readily discernible. If budget dictates it, you can drop down to an I and get a stone that is stunning, w/o sacrificing “noticeable” quality. Against a white background, you can see the tinge of color, but it’s hard to see otherwise.
# VS2 – SI1: SI1 is the lowest clarity grade that will yield a diamond that is 100% flawless to the naked eye; meaning, you can’t see flaws/inclusions w/o a microscope. Below an SI1, you can start to see the inclusions. Some SI1s have inclusions that are faintly visible through the bottom of the stone, but I avoid those stones.
# Very Good to Excellent polish & symmetry: The difference between Excellent & Very Good is only seen at the microscopic level. Thus, they will look 100% identical. You cannot have an ideal or excellent cut grade if the diamond has a polish or symmetry grade below VG.
# Category 1 Status: It’s incredibly important that any diamond you buy is a Category 1 diamond. Cat 1 diamonds are diamonds that have no dangerous inclusions & perfect atomic structuring. Cat 2 diamonds have inclusions that pose long-term issues to the stone’s durability and/or beauty, and often have atomic structural defects that make it highly likely the stone will break or chip at some point. If you read the Scams doc I sent previously, you have a good understanding of Cat 1 vs Cat 2. The problem w/ Cat 2 diamonds is, you cannot tell they are Cat 2 unless you run very specific gemological tests on them. Gemological grading reports don’t denote what category a diamond is. So, you can’t look at a GIA or AGS grading report and tell if it’s a good diamond or a bad diamond. You can have a D/Flawless, GIA Ex cut diamond that is pure junk. But, if you don’t run the proper tests, you’d never know. Thus, you do not want to buy a diamond based solely on the 4Cs. This is why we do pre-purchase evaluations through an independent gemologist on all diamonds we sell.
# Fluorescence: There is a very rare, but excellent type of fluorescence that I often like quoting. What makes it great is that it whitens the diamond a full color grade. Don’t let that be a determining factor though, b/c the human eye can’t distinguish adjacent grades in real world lighting conditions. There is a lot of confusing & incorrect information out there on fluorescence, so let me know if you want supporting evidence.


I like this forum a lot so far....I think I'll stick around even after I buy the rock...
 

nfowife

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Mar 15, 2011
Messages
544
He actually sounds like a very knowledgeable jeweler. However, B&M stores have higher overhead than the online stores, and may charge more. Also you pay sales tax on local purchases, and with a large purchase such as this that can be a few hundred + dollars that I'm sure you'd rather put into your diamond.

I have an AGS ideal I diamond, it is Si2. It has no visible inclusions and faces up extremely white. My sidestones are g in color and my wedding band is e/f in color and I cannot see any warmth in my I center stone (and it's over 2 carats) comparatively. Some might be very color sensitive but no one I've asked can see any difference in color.

Best of luck!
 
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