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Question for the oec experts- girdle thinness and fragility

leukolenos

Brilliant_Rock
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I have been looking at some OECs and am wondering about girdle stability/fragility in these stones. At what point does it become a serious concern? How thin is too thin? Would you pass on a stone because of some "bites"? I know some wear is to be expected given their age, I'd just like to know more specifically when I should be concerned. Thanks guys!
 

susief

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Re: Question for the oec experts- girdle thinness and fragil

Not an expert but I have an OEC and researched this. The general advice I found was to avoid Very Thin, Extremely Thin or Knife Edge if you are planning to expose the girdle e.g. a prong setting. If you are going to bezel the stone this does not matter. If you fall in love with an OEC with a very/extremely thin girdle and have your heart set on a prong setting, some vendors like Brian Gavin Diamonds offer a "girdle rehab" service that recuts the girdle, usually with minimal loss, into safer dimensions. Search for Audball's threads on this.
 

kenny

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Re: Question for the oec experts- girdle thinness and fragil

leukolenos|1462997718|4030381 said:
I have been looking at some OECs and am wondering about girdle stability/fragility in these stones. At what point does it become a serious concern? How thin is too thin? Would you pass on a stone because of some "bites"? I know some wear is to be expected given their age, I'd just like to know more specifically when I should be concerned. Thanks guys!
There is no point thinner than which is unsafe and thicker than which is safe.

A thinner girdle may last forever if it never gets a damaging blow and the thickest girdle may chip if it gets the perfect blow.

But ... one thing's for sure, thicker is safer and thinner is less safe.
Next, a more-protective setting is more safe than a less-protective one.

Lastly, there's insurance.
 

arkieb1

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Re: Question for the oec experts- girdle thinness and fragil

My big OEC has a thin girdle, I put it into an 8 prong setting for that reason to give it a bit of protection. Something like a bezel is even better. If you have something with a super thin girdle you can get it polished out or set it into a protective setting, it's not the end of the world. And the original owner probably wore it for a long time like that as well.....
 

leukolenos

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Re: Question for the oec experts- girdle thinness and fragil

kenny|1463006058|4030439 said:
leukolenos|1462997718|4030381 said:
I have been looking at some OECs and am wondering about girdle stability/fragility in these stones. At what point does it become a serious concern? How thin is too thin? Would you pass on a stone because of some "bites"? I know some wear is to be expected given their age, I'd just like to know more specifically when I should be concerned. Thanks guys!
There is no point thinner than which is unsafe and thicker than which is safe.

A thinner girdle may last forever if it never gets a damaging blow and the thickest girdle may chip if it gets the perfect blow.

But ... one thing's for sure, thicker is safer and thinner is less safe.
Next, a more-protective setting is more safe than a less-protective one.

Lastly, there's insurance.
thank you kenny- your input is always appreciated!

What about stones with existing damage? How would you evaluate that? Strictly case-by-case or rule them out or....?
 

leukolenos

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Re: Question for the oec experts- girdle thinness and fragil

arkieb1|1463008342|4030449 said:
My big OEC has a thin girdle, I put it into an 8 prong setting for that reason to give it a bit of protection. Something like a bezel is even better. If you have something with a super thin girdle you can get it polished out or set it into a protective setting, it's not the end of the world. And the original owner probably wore it for a long time like that as well.....
I love the look of 8 prongs but don't think I could live with a bezel (just not my style!). I guess I'm just trying to figure out what my decision parameters need to be, what I ought to rule out etc. Do you decide on a case by case basis on stones with existing damage? Or is the rationale more along the lines of "you can always get it rehabbed" ? :think:
 

arkieb1

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Re: Question for the oec experts- girdle thinness and fragil

No I don't think you should go with the intent to get something rehabbed as stones can break or explode when being re-polished it's really uncommon but it could happen. I think you find a well cut stone you like and then choose a suitable setting....
 

arkieb1

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Re: Question for the oec experts- girdle thinness and fragil

And I should add it's really really common to find old cuts with thin girdles and small chips in the girdles. Mostly this is never an issue, the stones are old that is just how they are. Generally (and I say generally) unless you smack your hands around a lot or work with your hands it should never be an issue and even then you rarely smack your hand at the correct angles to smack the sides of the stone.... If you are afraid of a thin girdle as I have said before then pick a more protective style setting.
 

diagem

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Re: Question for the oec experts- girdle thinness and fragil

Extra thin and uneven girdles are part of the DNA/character of old cut Diamonds.
They are part of the charm and signs of antique authenticity.
I never retouch old cuts! Sometimes I will do it at a clients specific request but also then it must be executed professionally otherwise it can alter the old cut signature look and feel.

Experienced jewelers in the antique field will know how to set these Diamonds while taking into account the old cut weak spots (if any).

In general I would avoid large chips that either endanger the Diamonds structure and chips/breakage which alter the shape significantly. Other wise I look at them as welcomed signs of age.
 

leukolenos

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Re: Question for the oec experts- girdle thinness and fragil

DiaGem|1463042320|4030623 said:
Extra thin and uneven girdles are part of the DNA/character of old cut Diamonds.
They are part of the charm and signs of antique authenticity.
I never retouch old cuts! Sometimes I will do it at a clients specific request but also then it must be executed professionally otherwise it can alter the old cut signature look and feel.

Experienced jewelers in the antique field will know how to set these Diamonds while taking into account the old cut weak spots (if any).

In general I would avoid large chips that either endanger the Diamonds structure and chips/breakage which alter the shape significantly. Other wise I look at them as welcomed signs of age.
Thanks for chiming in, DiaGem! I absolutely trust your expert opinion!
 
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