Question: about the back of a bezel

[Timor]

Hi knowledgeable PSers,
I recently set a border opal as a pendant, the bezel at the back has a tiny gap, as in, the back of the stone does not fully touch the back of the bezel (hope that makes sense), I even see a bit of glue (the picture does not show it very well but it’s there.)
I would like to know if that is normal and what it accomplishes, or is it just a case of the bezel not fitting perfectly? Customer services told me it’s “based on each stone’s properties” but would not give me any details on what and why, and I’m not happy with that answer.
Thank you in advance!

 

[VividRed]

Stock setting + non calibrated stone = inevitable wiggle room

Glue sounds sloppy, but if it’s on the back of the bezel, does it really matter?

 

[Timor]

Stock setting + non calibrated stone = inevitable wiggle room

Glue sounds sloppy, but if it’s on the back of the bezel, does it really matter?

Thanks for the input! It’s not a stock setting I bought though, that’s why I was confused.
You are right that no one would see it, but I guess I am fussy about some things…

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

Stones can be wonky, and it looks like that's the case here. You can see the declavity where the rough was thinner. A tiny bit of glue or silicone to help seat in a stock setting isn't a huge deal, especially if it's done with some skill. It'll save the inevitable loosening of the bezel face that would happen if it has no support.

 

[Timor]

Stones can be wonky, and it looks like that's the case here. You can see the declavity where the rough was thinner. A tiny bit of glue or silicone to help seat in a stock setting isn't a huge deal, especially if it's done with some skill. It'll save the inevitable loosening of the bezel face that would happen if it has no support.

Thank you! That solves the mystery of the glue. Should this happen when it’s supposed to be custom set though? They had a cad and everything.

 

[Rfisher]

Glue doesn’t matter if you are are made aware of that possibility from the beginning, agree to it, and you cannot see it from the topside. just my opinion and my experience, but that was a calibre cut multi stone ring.

the issue of glue only just coming up when you see it and question it is indeed frustrating.

this being a custom made bezel for a single stone - I’d question it just like you are, @Timor

Do you have macro photos of the stone before it was set or you had it in hand that you knew there were issues/wonk with the stones bottom perimeter? Is the base level and parallel to the stones top?
id hate to question damage (if indeed that’s what it is but doubt it) in that area was due to setting or occurred while in the jewelers hand.

so IMO it all depends on some more background info.

 

[stracci2000]

Stones can be wonky, and it looks like that's the case here. You can see the declavity where the rough was thinner. A tiny bit of glue or silicone to help seat in a stock setting isn't a huge deal, especially if it's done with some skill. It'll save the inevitable loosening of the bezel face that would happen if it has no support.

This^ Exactly!

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

I'm assuming it's a CAD cast piece? The amount of hand work that would need to be done to the inside-either they'd solder a rime or prong abutment of gold inside (adding to the cost in labor/weight and if it's a hard surface the thinner side of the opal would be against is loosening over time) or the back of the pendant itself would have to be made to follow the back slope increasing the thickness of the gold on one side by recasting it with the extra gold incorporated into the design and hand finish. Jeweler's glue, resin mix or a little silicone won't hurt the stone or gold in any way and solves the issue for pennies with the least amount of cost and damage. It's the gritty in the nitty of jewelry making, this stuff comes up with cabochon setting sometimes. They could also unmount, add potch/resin to the stone itself like they do with a doublet, repolish, then remount and repair the bezel.
There are always things that can be done, it's up to you if they should. Do what makes you the most comfortable!

*The only thing I would personally suggest is to check it every few years or so for loosening and if the material is degrading from heavy cleaning etc. a good jeweler would check the top bezeling for integrity, then clean it and replace the little nubbin they have in there if needed.

 

[Autumn in New England]

The epoxy is a non-issue for me (I enjoy the added security... jeweler's glue is very, very strong). However, if the piece was custom made for the opal, it should fit like a glove. There's a reason why we pay a premium for skilled work, rather than buying a pre-made mounting. Will you mention it to the jeweler or is it something you can live with? It does look like a lovely piece otherwise though; may we see the front?

 

[Timor]

Glue doesn’t matter if you are are made aware of that possibility from the beginning, agree to it, and you cannot see it from the topside. just my opinion and my experience, but that was a calibre cut multi stone ring.

the issue of glue only just coming up when you see it and question it is indeed frustrating.

this being a custom made bezel for a single stone - I’d question it just like you are, @Timor

Do you have macro photos of the stone before it was set or you had it in hand that you knew there were issues/wonk with the stones bottom perimeter? Is the base level and parallel to the stones top?
id hate to question damage (if indeed that’s what it is but doubt it) in that area was due to setting or occurred while in the jewelers hand.

so IMO it all depends on some more background info.

Thank you! I didn’t know about the glue, I’m okay with it being there but not okay being able to see it (granted you can’t see it from top down, I was being a fuss and looking at it 360)
The bottom looked pretty flat and even to me, I’ve sent it back to the jeweler to see what they can do about the gap.

 

[Timor]

I'm assuming it's a CAD cast piece? The amount of hand work that would need to be done to the inside-either they'd solder a rime or prong abutment of gold inside (adding to the cost in labor/weight and if it's a hard surface the thinner side of the opal would be against is loosening over time) or the back of the pendant itself would have to be made to follow the back slope increasing the thickness of the gold on one side by recasting it with the extra gold incorporated into the design and hand finish. Jeweler's glue, resin mix or a little silicone won't hurt the stone or gold in any way and solves the issue for pennies with the least amount of cost and damage. It's the gritty in the nitty of jewelry making, this stuff comes up with cabochon setting sometimes. They could also unmount, add potch/resin to the stone itself like they do with a doublet, repolish, then remount and repair the bezel.
There are always things that can be done, it's up to you if they should. Do what makes you the most comfortable!

*The only thing I would personally suggest is to check it every few years or so for loosening and if the material is degrading from heavy cleaning etc. a good jeweler would check the top bezeling for integrity, then clean it and replace the little nubbin they have in there if needed.

Thank you a lot! The stone looked even to me so I didn’t expect them to need that much work, I’ve sent it back to have them take another work.

 

[Timor]

The epoxy is a non-issue for me (I enjoy the added security... jeweler's glue is very, very strong). However, if the piece was custom made for the opal, it should fit like a glove. There's a reason why we pay a premium for skilled work, rather than buying a pre-made mounting. Will you mention it to the jeweler or is it something you can live with? It does look like a lovely piece otherwise though; may we see the front?

I’m sending it back for them to take another look, as I feel the same about it oughting to fit perfectly being custom made… and the custom service not owning it made me a bit upset.
It’s still pretty though! I’ll share photos when it comes back

 

[VividRed]

I’m sending it back for them to take another look, as I feel the same about it oughting to fit perfectly being custom made… and the custom service not owning it made me a bit upset.
It’s still pretty though! I’ll share photos when it comes back

Good call. I thought it was a stock setting.

 

[Autumn in New England]

Good call. I thought it was a stock setting.

I thought so too... and maybe it was close, so they forced it a bit.

 

[Rfisher]

I have a lovely chrysoprase that Ryan Quantz cut - and had it set by a local jeweler.

They custom made the setting for the stone - but majorly frustrating enough -
They used a “stock” oval ellipse shape in the CAD instead of using the exact outline footprint shape of my stone.
It’s not horrible but I do notice.
The local jeweler thought I was horrible for noticing the discrepancy though.
It doesn’t get worn.

Maybe yours is similar situation?

 

[Autumn in New England]

The local jeweler thought I was horrible for noticing the discrepancy though.

Don't you love it when they err and you're the bad guy?!

 

[Timor]

I have a lovely chrysoprase that Ryan Quantz cut - and had it set by a local jeweler.

They custom made the setting for the stone - but majorly frustrating enough -
They used a “stock” oval ellipse shape in the CAD instead of using the exact outline footprint shape of my stone.
It’s not horrible but I do notice.
The local jeweler thought I was horrible for noticing the discrepancy though.
It doesn’t get worn.

Maybe yours is similar situation?

I think this might be the case... granted it is very close, but when you notice it it's frustrating.
The customer service said things like "when you look at jewelry you look at the front side" as if that excuses any mistakes at the back... I also happen to have another bezeling work underway with them (sent those at the same time) and she even told me that she's told the bench to make sure to fit the stone to the back of the bezel "now that we know what your needs are". I even had a moment of self-doubt there and asked if there's anything to be accomplished by it NOT fitting (e.g. raising the stone against scratches??) and she avoided the question.
Depending on how this ends I might reconsider staying with them for future projects...