PLEASE Need thoughts on this diamond


Jan 24, 2016
Hi, can the good people of this forum give me some feedback/thoughts on this following diamond. I only have that picture and the cert. Would be getting it in the 2k range. Let me know thanks. 1_437.jpg 1_439.jpg


Aug 29, 2014
Oy. Where to start.

First off, the cut is not Ideal if it's graded as good :wall:

It doesn't look very white, which an F should be.

It looks highly included.

Is that a good price for the ct weight? Yes. Is it a worthwhile diamond? No.


Mar 9, 2016
Hi Raresauce, I would first make sure the diamond you are getting has a certification that comes from either GIA or AGS. Other labs are not nearly as strict about their standards, and you risk getting a diamond that only looks good on paper.

For this particular diamond, like telephone89 said, you would be better off getting a higher cut grade. If budget becomes an issue, dropping down from F grade color to a G-H is not going to be a huge difference visually after the diamond is mounted.

Happy Hunting!


Aug 8, 2005
Please read below. You need some basic information.

Round Diamonds 101:

The entire purpose of faceting a diamond is to reflect light.
How well or how poorly a diamond does this determines how beautiful it is.
How well a diamond performs is determined by the angles and cutting. This is why we say cut is king.
No other factor: not color, not clarity has as much of an impact on the appearance of a diamond as its cut. An ideal H will out white a poorly cut F. With round diamonds even a GIA triple Excellent is not enough. And you must stick to GIA and AGS only (HPD in Europe is good as well). EGL is a bad option: [URL=''][/URL]
So how to we ensure that we have the right angles and cutting to get the light performance we want?
Well one method is to start with a GIA Ex, and then apply the HCA to it. YOU DO NOT USE HCA for AGS0 stones generally, though you can. In general, AGS0 trumps HCA though as one examines the actual stone and the other does not.
The HCA is a rejection tool. Not a selection tool. It uses 4 data points to make a rudimentary call on how the diamond may perform.
If the diamond passes then you know that you are in the right zone in terms of angles for light performance. Under 2 is a pass. Under 2.5-2.1 is a maybe. 2.6 and over is a no. No score 2 and under is better than any other.
Is that enough? Not really.

So what you need is a way to check actual light performance of your actual stone.
That's what an idealscope image does.
It shows you how and wear your diamond is reflecting light, how well it is going at it, and where you are losing light return. That is why you won't see us recommending Blue Nile, as they do not provide idealscope images for their diamonds. BGD,BE, James Allen, GOG, HPD, ERD and WF do.

The Idealscope is the 'selection tool'. Not the HCA.
So yes, with a GIA stone you need the idealscope images. Or you can buy an idealscope yourself and take it in to the jeweler you are working with to check the stones yourself. Or if you have a good return policy (full refund minimum 7 days) then you can buy the idealscope, buy the stone, and do it at home.

Now if you want to skip all that... stick to AGS0 stones and then all you have to do is pick color and clarity and you know you have a great performing diamond. Because AGS has already done the checking for you. That's why they trade at a premium. Some AGS0's are better than others though, so pay attention to any ASET or IS provided.

In general with rounds, you will want a table 60% or less. A depth between 59 and 62.4. Crown angle 33.5-35. Pavilion Angle: 40.6-40.8 (there is a little give on this). And the crown and pavilion angles must be complimentary which is what the HCA checks for you.


It is important to remember is that color is graded FACE DOWN. Where there is NO light return. Not face up where there is light return and refraction. You wear diamonds set. FACE UP.

Within one color grade, even the labs can't agree on the color grades of stones and something could be a "high" H or a "low" E. So... Can you tell two diamonds of equal cut apart once set if they are within one color grade. Not really. That's why when you get a three stone you can easily do G sides for an F stone or vice versa. Within 2 color grades it is hard to tell them apart. Not impossible. But very hard. And it gets harder once set. If you are talking ideal rounds, or any stone with ideal light return and no sharp corners it gets harder still because the ideal light return masks body color. Keep in mind you wear diamonds alone on your hand once set, face up. And even if there are sidestones you stay within 2 color grades.

Generally we say to be conservative stay above H in a round. But MANY people have happily bought white I or even J diamonds when trying to eek out a little more size.

This is how I think of it.

Ever gotten one of those HUGE paint fan decks? Where there are literally 100s of colors of whites? And when they are RIGHT next to each other you can TOTALLY tell that one is bluer/colder and one is a bit warmer and which one is one is TOTALLY warmer. One there's one that's slightly greener. One that's slightly pinker? But really. They are all white?

Then you pick one after agonizing over this white or that white and when it's on the walls and people are like: Oh. You painted again. And it's STILL white. Great.

And you're all... BUT it's BLUE white. Or it's a WARM white now. It used to be ____ white. It's TOTALLY different.

It's like that. You are talking about shades of white. D is colder... J is warmer. But it's all white.

YES. If you have an accurately graded F and an H THAT HAVE THE SAME PERFORMANCE you are going to be able to tell them apart when you compare them. Just like you would be able to tell if you painted your walls a warm white, but painted the crown molding a cold/straight white. But both are STILL white.

I want you notice all the qualifiers thought. I'm talking about stones with the SAME performance. An ideal H will out white an F that has compromised light performance from a poor cut.

NOTHING impacts the appearance of a diamond as much as cut. CUT is king.

You want the shinest whitest and brightest diamond out there: Cut is King. No other factor, not color or clarity or anything else impacts how white bright an shiny a stone is.

ON CLARITY: and Generally we say that eyeclean SI1 and VS2 are as high as you need to go with round brilliants, have your vendor check the diamond for this. VS1 will always be eyeclean, but they do cost more and an eyeclean SI1 and a VS1 will look the same to the unaided eye. A VS1 and an IF will look the same to the naked eye and even with a loupe VS1 inclusions can be hard to find. In most cases, excluding cultural preferences, anything above VS1 is a waste of money.


Feb 14, 2005
raresauce|1457612036|4002587 said:
Thanks for the info but could you comment on the diamond I posted.

People already have - look above. It's not cut well, won't sparkle like a well cut diamond should, it looks more tinted than it's stated F color, the grading lab isn't as reliable, and $2k for a 1.16ct???? something is seriously wrong...... Gypsy gave you tons of info on how to look for the best diamond for the money. Read it.
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