Pink Sapphire Recut/Reset Help

[AmethystHope]

Hi Supersmart Coloured-Stone PSers,

I'm hoping you can help me land on the best route to reset my pink sapphire with the lovely cushion diamonds that I recently acquired from the even lovelier @mrs-b.

The pink sapphire is 2.56 carat (7.65 x 7.50 x 4.48 mm). The crown is modified brilliant cut and the pavilion is step cut. It is unheated and GIA certified.

Like many others, I have learned a lot after joining PS. I will let the pictures speak for themselves - my dilemma, after receiving the new-to-me cushion diamonds, is the sapphire itself. The sapphire windowing is tolerable (to me) in its current setting because the trillions are mostly dead and, well, I'm pink! So I'm sorta like a pink flesh cup that kinda (maybe?) cancels some the giant window out.

I think the first task is determining whether the experts here think the sapphire needs to be recut. The pictures below were selected to show the windowing. It is very vivid pink and is almost always like a glowy jolly rancher candy. What I don't want to do is pay for a reset with the cushions and have the sapphire be: meh.

I'm assuming that the answer to the first task will be: h*ll yes. So that's where I need some help to start off. Who - where - and what do I ask them?

Thank you in advance.

 

[arkieb1]

Herein likes the dilemma, is it meeeh now, the sapphire? Because you said it was tolerable, yes a recut will improve how the stone looks but it will also reduce the size of it, you need to contact a few cutters send them photos of the stone and see what they think and decide if the better cut of it is worth losing whatever they think in size.

It's a really pretty colour too!!!

 

[arglthesheep]

Color is nice, but have in mind, that the window is large and the stone will be smaller and wont fit back again in this setting. Depending on cut you will surely come under 2 ct which would be pitty...
That someone can estimate what could be the result, pics of the bottom would be interesting, to see if it is really shallow or not. Guessing from the window it looks like that....

 

[AmethystHope]

@arkieb1 Thank you for your reply. Questioning the sapphire's cut surfaced for me after joining PS. I bought the ring because of the sapphire's colour, which, at least for me, is never meh. I have read some threads in this coloured stone forum that seem to forgive cut for colour. Perhaps I should leave it well enough alone, but thought I'd be silly not to ask a community that is much more knowledgeable.
Is there somewhere I can find a shortlist of PS recommended cutters?

 

[AmethystHope]

@arglthesheep Thank you for your reply. I'm not concerned about it fitting back into the setting - I assumed that it would be toast due to 1) possible recut of sapphire 2) the new sides which would be the cushions. I will see if I have more information on the cut dimensions of the sapphire that might be helpful.

 

[AV_]

The cut reminds me that candy does not sparkle. Let it be all about the color. Then, diamonds fit around cabs too - contrast between types of cut is beautiful.

2p

 

[icy_jade]

Instead of recutting (for the various reasons mentioned), would adding a metal backing help? You can try using aluminum foil at the back to see if you think it will help improve the look.

 

[AmethystHope]

Thank you, @AV_ Your posts are poetic in nature; I appreciate you and the comparison you've made here. I could put jolly ranchers in my magnasonic for the max of 480 seconds - pretty sure they are not coming out as ideal faceted gems! Thanks for the alternate view.

 

[AmethystHope]

@icy_jade hmmm, thank you for this suggestion. Maybe a dense question, but is this different from a "cup" that I've read about? The picture you posted looks like it would still be easy enough to clean.

 

[Bron357]

I’d first try putting a bit of gold foil / rose gold foil (chocolate or candy wrapper ? ) underneath the sapphire and see how that looks.
To me, coloured gems are about the colour, the window in yours isn’t great but I’ve seen far worse. Recutting costs both in $$$ and carat weight so the question is “Can a metal cup behind the sapphire reduce the windowing to your satisfaction or are you happier to spend money and lose carat weight to “lose the window”?

 

[AmethystHope]

@Bron357 thank you for chiming in! I will do as suggested and post some pics.
Agreed that coloured gems are all about the colour (tee-hee at our CAD and AUS spelling ).
I appreciate everyone's thoughts here - it can be easy to second-guess your own intentions when you see all the killer stones posted.

 

[GliderPoss]

I think if you are not trying to put it back in the same setting, I'd contact a few cutters and see what they say. The colour is absolutely fabulous and no doubt being recut would also maximise that.

 

[Bron357]

@Bron357 thank you for chiming in! I will do as suggested and post some pics.
Agreed that coloured gems are all about the colour (tee-hee at our CAD and AUS spelling ).
I appreciate everyone's thoughts here - it can be easy to second-guess your own intentions when you see all the killer stones posted.

In Australia there is Doug Menadue at Bespoke Gems who is an amazing cutter/ gem rehabilitator. He’s in Sydney.

 

[arkieb1]

Where are you so we can recommend cutters?

Also worth point out is that many Antique gemstones have huge windows they didn't have the technology back then or the lighting or indeed often the cutting skills, I used to think that all gems with windows were blaaah, but after seeing lots of beautiful Antique stones with them, I think sometimes we need to learn when to leave something as is.

Perfection after all, can be overrated, sometimes something is beautifully imperfect.

 

[icy_jade]

@icy_jade hmmm, thank you for this suggestion. Maybe a dense question, but is this different from a "cup" that I've read about? The picture you posted looks like it would still be easy enough to clean.

I think a cup follows the shape of the stone and is part of the setting/design. What I suggested is an add on piece of metal... more like a cover at the back of the ring to reflect the light. As mentioned you can try with some foil at home and see if you feel better about the window with the reflection.

If you re-cut, you may need to reset the stone. You can always look for a new stone that will fit in this setting and ‘recycle’... could take a while though depending on the dimensions.

 

[T L]

I recut a stone with beautiful color like that and it lost saturation. I would try an enclosed backing on the settin first. See how it looks with a smooth piece of aluminum foil behind it on your finger.

 

[arkieb1]

I've actually tried backing and foiling a couple of antique stones and to be honest it didn't improve the windows that much at all, it more changes the colour and the look of the stone rather than simply fixing largish windows. It works for some stones but not every stone.

 

[marymm]

OP, if you have the sapphire recut, I do believe the stone will lose some vividness and color saturation. The precision cut will likely eliminate the window and sharpen up the cut/facet meets but (in my view) it will be at the expense of the color.

Right now you have an unheated GIA 2.5+ carat sapphire which has a certain value in and of itself. If you recut, likely the sapphire will drop below 2.5 carats and the recut stone will no longer match the GIA report ...

I definitely understand that windows can be distracting and wanting a beautiful stone to show at its best advantage, but in this case I recommend being very sure you're okay with losing some of the vividness and losing some of the stone's value should you go forward with the recut.

That said, for colored stones, I always recommend reaching out to Jerry Newman (Gemart Services) for his opinion and quote.

 

[Arcadian]

After I read your post the first thing I thought of was that color will probably suffer. I'm a freak for color. I'll keep a window to keep color though not everyone is like that. @marymm is correct, contact someone that cuts for color and ask for a consultation on the stone.

 

[AmethystHope]

Where are you so we can recommend cutters?

Also worth point out is that many Antique gemstones have huge windows they didn't have the technology back then or the lighting or indeed often the cutting skills, I used to think that all gems with windows were blaaah, but after seeing lots of beautiful Antique stones with them, I think sometimes we need to learn when to leave something as is.

Perfection after all, can be overrated, sometimes something is beautifully imperfect.

I'm in Canada.
Thank you for your additional input; your viewpoint is well taken and the more I think about it, the more sense it makes to leave it be.

 

[AmethystHope]

In Australia there is Doug Menadue at Bespoke Gems who is an amazing cutter/ gem rehabilitator. He’s in Sydney.

Thanks, @Bron357 - he's clearly exceptionally talented.

 

[AmethystHope]

I think a cup follows the shape of the stone and is part of the setting/design. What I suggested is an add on piece of metal... more like a cover at the back of the ring to reflect the light. As mentioned you can try with some foil at home and see if you feel better about the window with the reflection.

If you re-cut, you may need to reset the stone. You can always look for a new stone that will fit in this setting and ‘recycle’... could take a while though depending on the dimensions.

Thank you, @icy_jade, for further explaining the difference. I'll do some digging to get a better visual understanding.
I was thinking of removing the trillions and making some simple studs for my Goddaughter as the setting isn't very well made...
Thanks again for returning with more info.

 

[AmethystHope]

I recut a stone with beautiful color like that and it lost saturation. I would try an enclosed backing on the settin first. See how it looks with a smooth piece of aluminum foil behind it on your finger.

Ugh, that must've been disappointing!
I don't think improving the cut is worth risking the good things about it - like the saturation.
Ok, thank you, all of the experts here are sharing excellent advice, which is very appreciated. It's becoming clear that this is not an option to be taken lightly.

 

[AmethystHope]

OP, if you have the sapphire recut, I do believe the stone will lose some vividness and color saturation. The precision cut will likely eliminate the window and sharpen up the cut/facet meets but (in my view) it will be at the expense of the color.

Right now you have an unheated GIA 2.5+ carat sapphire which has a certain value in and of itself. If you recut, likely the sapphire will drop below 2.5 carats and the recut stone will no longer match the GIA report ...

I definitely understand that windows can be distracting and wanting a beautiful stone to show at its best advantage, but in this case I recommend being very sure you're okay with losing some of the vividness and losing some of the stone's value should you go forward with the recut.

That said, for colored stones, I always recommend reaching out to Jerry Newman (Gemart Services) for his opinion and quote.

Thank you for taking the time to share your perspective; all valid and appreciated!
I definitely made some newbie assumptions about how concrete of an improvement recutting it would be.

 

[AmethystHope]

After I read your post the first thing I thought of was that color will probably suffer. I'm a freak for color. I'll keep a window to keep color though not everyone is like that. @marymm is correct, contact someone that cuts for color and ask for a consultation on the stone.

Thank you, @Arcadian, I appreciate your input!

 

[distracts]

The first two pictures you posted are at such an angle that what we're seeing is a tilt window, which basically all gemstones have - and even the third isn't straight on AND is on an unforgiving black background... can you take a pic of the ring straight-on when it's on your hand? From the pictures given, I suspect the window isn't nearly as bad as you think it is.

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

@AmethystHope I've done a couple recuts. First was a damaged very old zircon. Jerry Newman recut it. It lost 1mm in diameter, went from 6+ct to 5ish? Then I had a spinel, loved the color, but the center was blah. Had Dan Stair do full recut. Lost about .5mm but nearly 1ct in weight (mostly lost bottom bulge).
Yes, I'm happy I recut both. The zircon really needed it, and I wasn't going to set the spinel as it was. Both stones still have their great color and now they sparkle like mad.
BUT, I didn't love them before. In your case you have a sapphire you love, with a color and effect you love. A recut might close whatever window but it can totally change the effect too. In this instance, I'm not sure you should recut. I'd keep that pink jolly rancher just like she is!

 

[AmethystHope]

The first two pictures you posted are at such an angle that what we're seeing is a tilt window, which basically all gemstones have - and even the third isn't straight on AND is on an unforgiving black background... can you take a pic of the ring straight-on when it's on your hand? From the pictures given, I suspect the window isn't nearly as bad as you think it is.

@distracts Thank you; here are a couple of straight-on pictures.

 

[AmethystHope]

 

[AmethystHope]

@AmethystHope I've done a couple recuts. First was a damaged very old zircon. Jerry Newman recut it. It lost 1mm in diameter, went from 6+ct to 5ish? Then I had a spinel, loved the color, but the center was blah. Had Dan Stair do full recut. Lost about .5mm but nearly 1ct in weight (mostly lost bottom bulge).
Yes, I'm happy I recut both. The zircon really needed it, and I wasn't going to set the spinel as it was. Both stones still have their great color and now they sparkle like mad.
BUT, I didn't love them before. In your case you have a sapphire you love, with a color and effect you love. A recut might close whatever window but it can totally change the effect too. In this instance, I'm not sure you should recut. I'd keep that pink jolly rancher just like she is!

@CHRISTY-DANIELLE Thank you for taking the time to share your experience with the pictures. I read your threads on both. You definitely made the right choice for both stones; they are gorgeous! The spinel's transformation is particularly amazing.