Padparadscha is the New Black

[pokerface]

I've had another lucky find: a tiny but vivid pad! I know not everyone agrees, but I just LOVE the bolder, more orangey sapphires. Believe it or not, this stone looks even better and more vibrant in person! Advertised as heat-only from a reputable vendor, I'm debating whether it's worth a cert. I think I've really done it up with pink-orange stones over this past year, so now I will have to move onto my other favorites: periwinkle and a very particular shade of bluish green!

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

stunning and a classic color!

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

Well, you know I'll love it. It's beautiful and it's great to find a pear.
These mixes are my favorite behind a good red. I was looking at my little collection and realized that it's primarily made up of variations of pads or reds or padreds(which I just made up).
I always think it's time to branch, resolve to do it, and then I go ahead bring another of the same home.

 

[StagandFinch]

What a beauty, love it!

 

[pokerface]

Playing around with a bezel, white gold, yellow gold and rose gold! I think the yellow gold is the clear winner here. I have no setting inspiration yet for a pear, but I love antique, floral and filigree styles. Time to lose myself in research...

 

[pokerface]

Question: what is epigenetic material in a sapphire? I don't know what that means, and so it's the only possible criterium that could prevent this stone from being a pad (I think). Is this something that I could easily determine with a loupe and general internet knowledge?

As per Lotus Gemology:

The name 'padparadscha sapphire' shall not be applied in the following cases:

– If the stone has any colour modifier other than pink or orange.

– If the stone has major uneven colour distribution when viewed with the unaided eye and the table up +/- 30°.

– The presence of yellow or orange epigenetic material in fissure(s) affecting the overall colour of the stone.

– If the stone has been treated as described in Information Sheets #2 and #3.

– If the stone has been treated by irradiation.

– If the stone has been dyed, coated, painted, varnished or sputtered.

 

[minousbijoux]

I imagine it means non-corundum, foreign material like colored oils, glass, or other fillers. Might also mean diffusion using foreign material like Be, but that might be covered by the next condition.

But more importantly, what does "sputtered" mean?!

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

I imagine it means non-corundum, foreign material like colored oils, glass, or other fillers. Might also mean diffusion using foreign material like Be, but that might be covered by the next condition.

But more importantly, what does "sputtered" mean?!

It's a way to apply a film/coating to the stone apparently. I went and had me a...

moment.

 

[Mreader]

Playing around with a bezel, white gold, yellow gold and rose gold! I think the yellow gold is the clear winner here. I have no setting inspiration yet for a pear, but I love antique, floral and filigree styles. Time to lose myself in research...

It’s a beautiful stone and I really love the first picture you have I think it would look really great and a ring like that.

 

[Obscura]

I tend to like the pastel orange peach colors, but that stone is a beautiful color!

What shade of blueish green are you looking for? It's my favorite color and have looked at a lot! Lol I may be able to point you to one.

 

[wildcat03]

I love this! Would you mind sharing where you found it? I maxed out my periwinkle collection last year (first time I've ever been ahead of the trends...)

 

[pokerface]

It is the same vendor I recommended before, GemmaxMontreal on Etsy. I bought both my orangey pink spinels as well as my opalescent sapphire from him. Everything I've bought from him is nicer than the pictures, and all as advertised or better.

 

[Autumn in New England]

Question: what is epigenetic material in a sapphire? I don't know what that means, and so it's the only possible criterium that could prevent this stone from being a pad (I think). Is this something that I could easily determine with a loupe and general internet knowledge?

As per Lotus Gemology:

The name 'padparadscha sapphire' shall not be applied in the following cases:

– If the stone has any colour modifier other than pink or orange.

– If the stone has major uneven colour distribution when viewed with the unaided eye and the table up +/- 30°.

– The presence of yellow or orange epigenetic material in fissure(s) affecting the overall colour of the stone.

– If the stone has been treated as described in Information Sheets #2 and #3.

– If the stone has been treated by irradiation.

– If the stone has been dyed, coated, painted, varnished or sputtered.

I realize this is an old thread, but OP posed an interesting question that I thought was worth a blurb.

There are 3 main types of inclusions. First, we have protogenetic, which means that the inclusions were present prior to the growth of the host crystal. An example of this would be rutile needles in quartz. The quartz grew around the rutile. Then, we have syngenetic, which means that the inclusions were formed along with the gem itself. An example of this might be graphite inclusions in a diamond. Lastly, we have epigenetic, which means, you guessed it, that the inclusions were formed after the host crystal. This usually happens due to the healing of a fracture. An example of this would be a fluid inclusion in an emerald. All of these factors are critical in dating a crystal's age.

So, in the case of Lotus' preclusion of the padparadscha designation in cases of "yellow or orange epigenetic material in fissures affecting the overall color of the stone," basically what they're trying to avoid is non-genetic inclusion material creating the pad color in an otherwise ordinary pink sapphire. The lab wants to see a color resulting from the presence of chromium and iron in the sapphire's crystal structure, not from an errant yellow or orange inclusion blending into pink.

Hopefully this helps clear up the confusion a bit (to anyone still interested)! I'm going to sarcastically slow clap myself now...

 

[T L]

I think it's worth getting a lab report that rules out anything other than heat, before you set it. That helps with insurance replacement value, and if you ever need to pass it down, or sell it in the future. It's fine to trust your vendor, but verification is required if you want the stone to hold any value.

I've had trusted vendors, but I'm kind of suspicious with anything corundum. I always get lab reports for sapphire, blue, padparadscha or otherwise. That's probably why I never buy sapphires. I hate the added costs associated with lab reports, but with some gems, it's essential IMHO. The two sapphires I do own, have AGL reports and I paid $100 extra for one to be tested with a mass spectrometer.

If you paid very little, then it might not be worth it, except for peace of mind.

 

[pokerface]

The seller did not advertise this as a pad. I asked him why, and he said he believes true pads originate only in Sri Lanka, and this stone is of African origin. That's why I think it could be a pad, minus the part about epigenetic material. Per AGL, a stone does not need to come from any particular location to receive the pad designation.

 

[T L]

The seller did not advertise this as a pad. I asked him why, and he said he believes true pads originate only in Sri Lanka, and this stone is of African origin. That's why I think it could be a pad, minus the part about epigenetic material. Per AGL, a stone does not need to come from any particular location to receive the pad designation.

Some purists think a stone can only be a true padparadscha if it comes from Sri Lanka.

Despite this, whether it's from Africa, Asia, wherever, I think a lab report is still essential. JMO.

 

[Autumn in New England]

The seller did not advertise this as a pad. I asked him why, and he said he believes true pads originate only in Sri Lanka, and this stone is of African origin. That's why I think it could be a pad, minus the part about epigenetic material. Per AGL, a stone does not need to come from any particular location to receive the pad designation.

@pokerface Well it certainly is a lovely gem, that's for sure!! Congrats on adding it to your collection. From my experience, I can tell you that AGL often disqualifies more orange leaning stones from pad contention. Their senior gemologist, Monruedee Chaipaksa, is originally from AIGS. She is Thai, and Asian countries traditionally prefer more pink pads. In my opinion, this plays into their grading of pads. They are also sticklers for tone and saturation... if the tone is beyond medium or the saturation is too strong, they will disqualify it. And they are (rightfully) sensitive to the presence of any brown modifier, which I do NOT see in your stone. Of course, if the gem is Be treated, it would be disqualified.

I find that the GIA is more tolerant of orange dominant stones and those with differing tones and saturation, so you may want to send the stone off to them for certification if the pad designation is important to you. Here is a really informative article from Yvonne Raley, which discusses the inconsistencies in pad grading amongst labs. Color is so subjective! Anyway, do keep us updated!!

Padparadscha – Lab Certification Roulette

Guest Blog by Inken Krause, Enhoerning Jewelry Entire book chapters and countless longish essays have been written about the ideal color of Padparadscha sapphire and the cultural history of this special color descriptor so full of romantic idealization and metaphoric meaning. Now Yvonne has...

www.cecileraleydesigns.com

 

[pokerface]

Thanks for all the intel, @Autumn in New England! Any thoughts on GRS as well? They seem to be more in favor of intense coloring.

 

[Autumn in New England]

Thanks for all the intel, @Autumn in New England! Any thoughts on GRS as well? They seem to be more in favor of intense coloring.

There's nothing I love talking about more than pads, so thank YOU! Of all the reputable labs, I've found GRS to be the most forgiving with regard to pad tone and saturation. They use the "sunrise" and "sunset" designations, although I think the article I cited in my last post has them backwards. If I'm not mistaken, the sunrise leans pink and the sunset leans orange. Anyway, AGL is the strictest, in my opinion. They really love those pale pink-dominant stones (which I dislike tremendously).

There seem to be two schools of thought with regard to true pad color... you either subscribe to the LMHC's narrow definition or you're of the opinion that there are many variations, qualities, and mining locales of pad, just like there are of blue sapphire. Here's an interesting article by Richard Hughes that discusses the topic at length.

Padparadscha Sapphire & the Ownership of Words

An examination of what defines padparadscha sapphire, from early times to that developed by the Laboratory Manual Harmonisation Committee (LMHC) in 2005.

www.lotusgemology.com

In my opinion, there are only a couple of aspects that could possibly preclude your stone from being considered a pad:

1. The saturation might be too vivid to fall within the traditional pad definition.

2. If the color fails the stability test. Some Madagascan stones from Ambatondrazaka (not Ilakaka) are known to fade. All major labs will test for this.

3. If the stone is Be treated (standard heat is fine).

Otherwise, the tone of your stone looks right, and I clearly see both pink and orange. I detect no other modifiers such as brown, yellow, or purple. Again, the saturation is vivid, as opposed to pastel, but that doesn't faze some labs. And the origin won't matter if the color is right.

It's funny... other than, say, gray spinel, where the ideal is medium tone and essentially zero saturation, padparadscha is the only stone where vivid saturation is not the ideal. Myself? I prefer a medium tone (I loathe the really washed out stones) and I still want to see a lively saturation. I also favor more orange-dominant stones. There's nothing I hate more than paying pad prices only to have someone compliment me on my pink sapphire. You want someone to say, "now what is THAT?!"

At the end of the day, this is definitely a case of "buy what makes your heart sing." Ask 100 different people what their idea of a proper pad is, and you'll receive 100 different answers. You have a beautiful stone there! Enjoy!!

 

[lambskin]

Really beautiful stone.

 

[oncrutchesrightnow]

It's funny... other than, say, gray spinel, where the ideal is medium tone and essentially zero saturation, padparadscha is the only stone where vivid saturation is not the ideal. Myself? I prefer a medium tone (I loathe the really washed out stones) and I still want to see a lively saturation. I also favor more orange-dominant stones. There's nothing I hate more than paying pad prices only to have someone compliment me on my pink sapphire. You want someone to say, "now what is THAT?!"

At the end of the day, this is definitely a case of "buy what makes your heart sing." Ask 100 different people what their idea of a proper pad is, and you'll receive 100 different answers. You have a beautiful stone there! Enjoy!!

Agree. I like pale colored stones in general but some things just look good when they are really really bright, like a cotton candy sunset.

 

[demantoidz]

GRS called this a pad when to me its much browner than yours if their pics & video are accurate:

This item is unavailable - Etsy

Find the perfect handmade gift, vintage & on-trend clothes, unique jewelry, and more… lots more.

www.etsy.com

It's funny... other than, say, gray spinel, where the ideal is medium tone and essentially zero saturation, padparadscha is the only stone where vivid saturation is not the ideal.

I don't think this is necessarily the case, and culture plays a big part in it. If you look at Richard Hughes mini survey, where he presented a pink-orange palette to Sri Lankan & Hong Kong dealers and asked them to circle the colors they consider Pad, a few of them ONLY selected the vivid/darker/non-pastel areas. Of course, the sample size is tiny. I'm not surprised if AGL, being western, has a preference/bias for lighter ones.
Scroll down to 'Figure 11. Padparadscha color range survey results'

Padparadscha Sapphire & the Ownership of Words

An examination of what defines padparadscha sapphire, from early times to that developed by the Laboratory Manual Harmonisation Committee (LMHC) in 2005.

www.lotusgemology.com

 

[margauxmines]

I've had another lucky find: a tiny but vivid pad! I know not everyone agrees, but I just LOVE the bolder, more orangey sapphires. Believe it or not, this stone looks even better and more vibrant in person! Advertised as heat-only from a reputable vendor, I'm debating whether it's worth a cert. I think I've really done it up with pink-orange stones over this past year, so now I will have to move onto my other favorites: periwinkle and a very particular shade of bluish green!

That's absolutely gorgeous!! It still has that touch of pink... Delicioussss!

 

[T L]

There's nothing I love talking about more than pads, so thank YOU! Of all the reputable labs, I've found GRS to be the most forgiving with regard to pad tone and saturation. They use the "sunrise" and "sunset" designations, although I think the article I cited in my last post has them backwards. If I'm not mistaken, the sunrise leans pink and the sunset leans orange. Anyway, AGL is the strictest, in my opinion. They really love those pale pink-dominant stones (which I dislike tremendously).

There seem to be two schools of thought with regard to true pad color... you either subscribe to the LMHC's narrow definition or you're of the opinion that there are many variations, qualities, and mining locales of pad, just like there are of blue sapphire. Here's an interesting article by Richard Hughes that discusses the topic at length.

Padparadscha Sapphire & the Ownership of Words

An examination of what defines padparadscha sapphire, from early times to that developed by the Laboratory Manual Harmonisation Committee (LMHC) in 2005.

www.lotusgemology.com

In my opinion, there are only a couple of aspects that could possibly preclude your stone from being considered a pad:

1. The saturation might be too vivid to fall within the traditional pad definition.

2. If the color fails the stability test. Some Madagascan stones from Ambatondrazaka (not Ilakaka) are known to fade. All major labs will test for this.

3. If the stone is Be treated (standard heat is fine).

Otherwise, the tone of your stone looks right, and I clearly see both pink and orange. I detect no other modifiers such as brown, yellow, or purple. Again, the saturation is vivid, as opposed to pastel, but that doesn't faze some labs. And the origin won't matter if the color is right.

It's funny... other than, say, gray spinel, where the ideal is medium tone and essentially zero saturation, padparadscha is the only stone where vivid saturation is not the ideal. Myself? I prefer a medium tone (I loathe the really washed out stones) and I still want to see a lively saturation. I also favor more orange-dominant stones. There's nothing I hate more than paying pad prices only to have someone compliment me on my pink sapphire. You want someone to say, "now what is THAT?!"

At the end of the day, this is definitely a case of "buy what makes your heart sing." Ask 100 different people what their idea of a proper pad is, and you'll receive 100 different answers. You have a beautiful stone there! Enjoy!!

Slightly off topic, but aquamarine value is based more off of tone than saturation as well. The darker the stone, despite grayness, the more valuable.

 

[Autumn in New England]

@demantoidz

Yes, agreed! That stone is way too brown, dark, and overly saturated to be a pad, IMO.

Those few dealers in HK may have preferred the more saturated colors (though, rather than a palette, I wish we were looking at actual stones), but I was talking about the LMHC definition and general consensus that "delicate" and "pastel" is the ideal. As I said, ask 100 different people, and they'll give you 100 different answers. Color is so subjective.

 

[Autumn in New England]

Slightly off topic, but aquamarine value is based more off of tone than saturation as well. The darker the stone, despite grayness, the more valuable.

So I would say that's more a case where aquamarine just doesn't often (if ever) reach the really vivid saturations. Because the GIA makes it clear that the purer and more intense the color, the more valuable. Here's a photo of what they consider ideal...



And here's what we commonly see... big difference in prices, I would imagine.

 

[pokerface]

But sapphire also rarely reaches a beautiful, intense orange pink color. And it's normally the case that more vivid colors are more expensive, like fancy colored diamonds. It makes very little sense to me that a more attractive (IMO) colored sapphire is worth less because it didn't receive a particular label. It's the equivalent of buying designer clothes for the label and without regard to what they look like. It would be one thing if most people did not consider these vivid colors attractive or if vivid colors weren't rare but based on how other gems are valued, it's just not the case. Whatever, more for me!

 

[Autumn in New England]

@pokerface Absolutely! I've always felt that pads were difficult to describe and it was a "you know it when you see it" type thing. But everyone's different, and that's why pad color continues to be a hot button issue in the gem community. In my case, I'm sort of smack dab in the middle. I despise the paler stones, and the super saturated stones lack that dreamy pastel vibe I adore. I think it would be really interesting if we all posted a photo of our idea of the perfect pad. Although I don't want to highjack OP's thread! Do you think it would be cool to start a new thread dedicated to this or would it create too much dissention?

 

[pokerface]

You can't argue with a subjective opinion! Well, I suppose you can. But it sounds like a fun idea; I'm sure there are beautiful examples out there of all different hues and saturations.

 

[Autumn in New England]

You can't argue with a subjective opinion! Well, I suppose you can. But it sounds like a fun idea; I'm sure there are beautiful examples out there of all different hues and saturations.

I'm going to do it! Let's see what folks say!!