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Opinions needed on diamonds for studs

TrousseauHorse

Rough_Rock
Joined
Apr 3, 2013
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25
I received the attached GIA certificates from a B&M store and would like to get some opinions on what others think. I used the Holloway Cut Adviser, but I am not completely sure I entered in the numbers correctly.

My husband is more comfortable looking at B&M stores so that's where that is coming from. I was willing to give it a try because I needed to get an idea of size/color/etc. in person first and also because when we were shopping for my e-ring we were able to have a local store get us in a good quality diamond and I talked them down to a close enough to online price that I was happy with. That location has since closed and I wouldn't do business with them again anyway based on how they handled things when the setting bent. So part of the appeal of buying from a B&M is having a place I know I can go for repairs and cleaning for all of my jewelry. I have not found a place nearby that is willing to clean my rings if they didn't sell them to me. The store we are looking at has always been happy to clean things while we look and I have had things appraised there, bought some less expensive items, etc.

What I'm looking for is four prong basket set studs, 1ctw or larger (I have an irrational mental block against numbers just under - I feel like it would bother me.) They need to be set in platinum due to metal sensitivities, so that has to be factored into the total purchase price. It turns out I can't really see color, so I'm good down to an I (in person I'm ok down to a J, but then I start having the mental block again) and at SI1-SI2 I can't see a thing (this is where I have gotten past my mental block and am ready to go as low as is practical!)

As far as price, I am flexible but I would like to pay as little as possible to get what I'm looking for, which I guess is mainly sparkle and size since I can't see anything else. I am also willing to pay up to probably 10% more to support a local business so we don't end up in some sort of Terminator-esque post-apocalyptic hellscape where all shopping transactions take place via drones.

So at this store, they first showed us a pair of 1ctw uncertified stones they said were I color, VS2 for $5,000 (including the setting, plus tax)... I told them Costco sells that for $3,000. They were like oh but the cut. I was like well yeah but I don't know anything about the cut of yours either (and I have years of experience dealing with Costco that actually kind of gives me more faith in them.)

Then she showed us certified pairs, two D, SI1 and then two J, VVS2 for $5,000 either way. I told her I couldn't see the color or the clarity difference enough to want to pay extra for high color or clarity.

So that's how we got to the two stones with the attached certificates. They are J, VS2 and J, SI2, which I'm not really ok with. She said $4,000 including the setting, but I think they would take $3,500 plus tax. But as far as I can tell, they are not very good, so that is probably too high still.

I'm kind of feeling like they just want to take advantage of us. But when we bought my e-ring, the old store didn't show me anything even close to what I wanted until I literally just sent them links to the stones I was considering online. Then all of a sudden they were ordering things in and matching prices. But I feel like I shouldn't have to do so much work for them to get them to show me something nice. Is that what it's like for everybody?

I'm just not sure whether I should try to continue to work with them or whether it's like "omg if they're trying to sell you those diamonds then they are clearly bad people and you should run away as fast as possible." Thoughts?
 

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Earlier this year I got a pair of 1.05 carat H/SI1 stud earrings (uncertified but they were independently appraised at those specs) from ID Jewelry for $1200 cash. I think IDJ could probably give you a GIA-certified pair for $1500 to $2000 in your specifications. You can trust them to get you a pair of fireballs.

But if you feel like spending $3500 to $4000 then feel free to support your local business owner kid's college fund.
 
The other bad thing, besides price, about the studs offered by your B&M: they don't match! One stud has a 64% table and 57% depth, while the other has a 56% table and 62% depth. The table size difference will be immediately obvious to the naked eye.

No such issues with the White Flash pair which are perfectly matched.
 
I would look into getting quotes from Whiteflash or ID. I think you might be surprised at what you can get for your budget.
 
Thanks for the replies. I've done my research already and what I'm looking for costs about $3500 online. My questions are:

1) Could someone please comment on what the flaws are in the specific stones I provided certificates for (did get one comment, so thank you for that); and

2) How do you decide whether a particular store is worth doing business with?

Thanks!
 
1) The HCA score are 2.3 and 3.6. Most prefer a diamond with a HCA score below 2 as an initial screening measure. So both diamonds provided by the B&M wouldn't merit further consideration unless they're priced exceptionally or whatever.

If HCA is below 2, and the price is right, then you consider asking for high definition photos/video, imaging, ASET, Idealscope etc. But there's no need to take that step here.

2) IDJ and White Flash have earned business over decades by providing great product at great prices to many informed diamond consumers. I've personally bought from both and I highly recommend both, especially for diamond studs.
 
Your shop did what most shops do to match stones for studs - they matched outline (round), diameter (perfectly matched), colour (perfectly matched), and fluorescence (perfectly matched by the report, though should be re-checked in-person). What they didn't give any thought to is faceting, which determines performance - exactly how the diamond shines and sparkles through a variety of lighting types.

The second stone (0.55ct) is definitely worth further inspection by the info on the report - no flags here. If they'd found two stones with numbers like the second you'd be looking at a promising pair. Sadly, in contrast, the first stone's report is nothing BUT red flags.
1. Gigantic table + shallow pavilion = fish eye (you'll see the reflection of the girdle under the table at even small tilt angles, if not face-up)
2. Shallow pavilion + large table + shallow crown = completely different type of light return compared to the other stone - held side by side they won't sparkle the same way. The other will throw off lots of white and colored light, this one will look glassy by comparison in most types of lights (they'll be most similar under spotlights, which is the usual lighting in jewellery stores)

GIA graded the first stone "Good" cut. "Good" is a bit of a misnomer - to not merit at least Very Good, the stone must actually be pretty horribly cut. I suggest telling your jeweller to stick to GIA EX or AGSL 0-2 as a starting point.
 
I choose jewellers by reputation, policies, and my comfort when speaking to them and dealing with them. I choose jewellers who people I trust have had good experiences with. I find jewellers who make beautiful pieces in the styles I'm looking for, and call or email to find out if I would be comfortable working with the establishment - do I feel like the representative I'm talking with understands what I'm looking for? Do I feel like a valued customer? Do I feel like the vendor will work with me through roadblocks , etc.? I choose jewellers who offer trade/upgrade/buy back policies that are of value to me.

I don't choose jewellers by location - I don't care where in the country they are; no region has a monopoly on talent. I don't choose jewellers by operation style - if a talented bench or specialty professional decides to avoid outfitting his operation with a nice presentation office located on a main road to reduce overhead, that's not my concern. (Many PS vendors (not all) do have physical store locations as well as strong online presences).

I also don't particularly have a problem with Delivery of Diamonds by Drone, though - the cutting is always going to be best done by a human ::)
 
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