2 and 4 also, 4 looks slightly better in the photo, but 2 could be rotated a bit. Can they bring them both in for you to take your own aset?
I prefer 4! 2 seems to have washed out arrows.. not sure if it is just the photo, but I am skeptical.
Also, I am so sorry but I am having hard time understanding why it is difficult to choose from VVS stones, even the majority of VS1 stones are completely clean! Perhaps what you saw was not inclusions, but dirt. I would absolutely drop clarity and go up a size a little, but the decision is yours in the end.
2 and 4 also, 4 looks slightly better in the photo, but 2 could be rotated a bit. Can they bring them both in for you to take your own aset?
I would not buy #2 without the ASET image. If you have it on hold, can you share the link to the diamond #2? Can't really make complete assessment.
It appears leaky, the edges look weird, contrast is non-existent.
It is very unexpected.
you could ask for a new pic of #2.
Honestly all 4 next to each other the average person would not be able to tell them apart if they are the same size.
Basically you have 2 pair of earnings if they are near the same size.
They would fall into ideal cut but maybe not super-ideal(not enough info).
thank you again for your kind advise! Due to its location I can't take the ASET then send it back.
Why are you so committed to a vendor that does not appear to have a return policy and does not provide IS or ASET? This is not the norm, at least online.![]()
No private messages, sorry.
I can see you are trying to learn and choose a great stone. I'm going to go back to basics here to make sure you understand how PS members typically approach diamond purchases online. I think you have imposed limits to your selection criteria that are not helping you.
GIA rated Excellent is a very wide category. Within that category, we recommend limiting your screening using the below specs to keep you within more narrow ranges that are more likely to show performance. AGS is more strict on cut, but may be 1 color off than GIA (IMHO).
table: 54-58 (I personally limit this to a max of 57.5)
depth: 60-62.3
crown angle: 34-35.0 (up to 35.5 crown angle can sometimes work with a 40.6 pav angle)
pavilion angle: 40.6-40.9 (sometimes 41.0 if the crown angle is close to 34)
If it looks good, then you can run the actual numbers through the HCA Tool (I frequency use the AGSL table as I suggested in an earlier post) to see how complimentary the angles shown are. The HCA tool is simply predicting performance within a set of ranges liked by the developer. There is absolutely NO reason to limit yourself to HCA less than 1, in fact, doing so is driving your choices to stone that may be less ideal for a ring. Most people prefer rings with 1-2 based on the HCA (although I keep anything under 2.0 in the running). Then, you look at the Idealscope (IS) or ASET to see actual performance. Look at videos to see how the facets behave and look for darkness under the table.
When well balanced, higher crowns and smaller tables will tend to have more fire. Low crowns and wider table tend to have less fire and the diamond will have a flatter appearance from the side. Neither is inherently good or bad, but many on PS members prefer firey diamonds. All else being equal, I prefer "chubby arrows" as they tend to provide better contrast in a diamond -- which is good.
I understand you want IF/FL. Just know that in setting that as a fixed criteria, you will be severely limiting your choices as many compromises in cut (the actual angles) are made to 'hit' that mark. There are also very few IF/FL in the market as compared to VVS. IF/FL are not flawless....that's just a label. They have no visible inclusions under 10x by a skilled observer (my grandmother said 10x was chosen based on the limits of most human's eyes, IDK if that is the truth). My advise would be to open up your criteria to VVS whose inclusions are still very hard to locate for the skilled observer. Adding these two clarity tiers will provide a lot more options to sift through to focus on performance and find a great diamond. Total respect your choice, but I just wanted to explain why folks here keep asking you about this.
We are asking about your budget, size and color to help provide you the best advice. We respect that you don't want to tell us this, but know that we are therefore limited in advising about the value you are getting and helping you find options. Many stones available online are from a virtual inventory and can be sourced by many vendors. If you are open to any vendor, then letting us in on your specs will let us look too. Again, your choice.
Edited to add. If you fear posting here will cause the diamond to get sold out from under you, I find that unlikely for a stone of the criteria you described. I suspect you have have 'lost' diamonds simply because there are so few that they move more quickly. Also, between now and the first of the year is a big time for diamond purchases, so demand may be higher.
This is from the inventor of the HCA tool's website, quoting http://www.hollowaydiamonds.com.au/holloway-cut-adviser
"A score below 2 (Excellent) means you have eliminated known poor performers (more than 95% of all round diamonds). But a lower score is not the aim; many people prefer diamonds with an HCA score of 1.5 than those below 1.0. The red area on this chart represents the lowest HCA scores and stones near the center of the red region are often the least affected by small symmetry variations.
A shallower stone, on the lower part of the chart, will look darker when viewed from close up, they are not for everyone. Shallow stones have the advantage of a bigger spread. They are better suited for use as pendants and earring stones where they are not usually viewed from very close proximity (a close observers head obstructs light sources that would otherwise be returned).
Deeper proportioned stones, near the upper part of the red area, have more leakage and reduced light return. Diamonds with a large area of partial leakage table, seen as a pale area with an ideal-scope, are best set in open backed rings so light can get in the bottom or pavilion of the diamond."
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#2 & #4 have better proportions:
56% table is BETTER than 58%
15-15.5% crown height is BETTER than 13.5-14%
75% lower half is BETTER than 80%
@Nicccc
Realistically there is only so much we can tell you with the information presented.
Better answers require more information.
The lack of information is leading to speculation and maybe a little frustration on how to help you better by some posters.
Don't take it personally.
High clarity and or high color are valid choices and your clearly making an educated decision and that should be respected.
Where in the world did you get the information?
1: false
2: mostly false
3: definitely false.
56% table isn't better than a 58% table, a very observant person might pick up the table size difference side by side but both can be part of a superbly cut diamond.@Karl_K:
Can you elaborate on this, further? As a step-Cut enthusiast, MRB’s are a bit confusing to me, and l’m trying to wrap my head around all of these angles....
ECs are a totally different cut with different considerations.
Up a couple posts in that thread I mentioned it.
There is far more variation in patterns possible in an EC than a modern rb.
With a mrb the only time darkness from obstruction is a real issue is with multiple shallow pavilion facet angles under 40.5(~40.45 actually).
Not to be confused with the arrows going dark at close viewing range which is expected and a good thing.
Darkness from leakage usually starts with the lower halves and with a 40.6 pavilion is is almost impossible for that to happen.
What can happen is pavilion digging causing leakage but it is pretty obvious in face up images when it gets to that point.
https://www.pricescope.com/journal/do_pavilion_mains_drive_light_return_modern_round_brilliant
My eye and my experience in real life how diamonds perform.Where in the world did you get the information?
I will be able to see with my eye the difference between #1/#3 and #2/#4.Its ridiculous, there is not a person alive who by eye can tell the difference face up in combinations they work with.