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old cut vs brilliant for stud earrings

jeweln

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 21, 2011
Messages
674
Helo Pscers ,
I have RB excellent cut diamond studs . I was wondering how do the old European/mine cut studs perform on the ears . are they more fiery ? less sparkly than the round brilliant cut ? do they shine more in some lights ?
if you have both please give me your feedback .Thanks .
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 14, 2009
Messages
22,575
jeweln|1452091037|3971600 said:
Helo Pscers ,
I have RB excellent cut diamond studs . I was wondering how do the old European/mine cut studs perform on the ears . are they more fiery ? less sparkly than the round brilliant cut ? do they shine more in some lights ?
if you have both please give me your feedback .Thanks .

I have owned both: 1ct OEC studs, 1ctw MRB studs, 2.5ctw OEC studs, and 5.4ctw MRB studs.

Advantages of old cuts (true old cuts, sold by vendors specializing in vintage goods or purchased privately pre-loved, not precision-cut old-cut-style types like AVRs):
- More carat weight for the price (exceptions are rarities like very high colour, in which case they actually can be more expensive than MRBs)
- Each stone is a unique one-of-a-kind gem
- Matching stones is less important - the expectation is that each stone in a pair/suite will have slightly different faceting and personality
- Many on PS (including me) feel that the patterning is more favourably showcased in lower-colours (which, again, cost less) than modern brilliant patterning

Disadvantages of old cuts:
- Matching two stones by yourself can be difficult - I highly recommend buying a pre-matched pair from a reputable vendor
- Generally face-up smaller than MRBs for the weight
- Generally have less brightness than MRBs, and brightness => whiteness => apparent size on the ears


Advantages of MRBs:
- Easy to find well-cut matching pairs, and both stones can (should) be so closely matched they're virtually impossible to distinguish - good for those who need "mind clean" matching!
- Face-up large when well-cut and the patterning leans toward more brightness than old cuts, which makes them look bigger (apparent size)
- Shallower pavilions mean light return is less affected by skin oils on the pavilion surface, shallower crowns lessens face-up "grease collection" (they'll be brighter and sparklier at the end of a day of touching skin, hair, hair products, etc.)

Disadvantages of MRBs:
- Many on PS (including me) will generally advise higher-colour than for old cuts, which increases the cost
- Most well-cut MRBs look very similar - you won't have two stones with different characters, which is something I loved about my OECs


Thing to keep in mind... stones on your ears are oriented completely differently relative to modern light sources (usually from above) than stones on your fingers. Light entering the stone "face-up" is coming from beside you, not above you, and in most modern settings this light is ambient light, not spot-lighting. No OEC or RB is going to show much fire in day-to-day ambient, diffused lighting.

Honestly, under say 1ct each I don't think the differences matter all that much: the stones are too small to appreciate faceting from afar anyway, and smaller facets minimises variance in light return flavour created by different patterning.
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 14, 2009
Messages
22,575
1ctw I/J OECs:
file.jpg
file.jpg

0.86ctw J MRBs were the same face-up size as the OECs - I hated the settings, and soon repurposed the stones as sidestones in my Ering

2.5ctw J/K OECs:
yssie-wffinal-b.png
yssie-wffinal-onear1.png

5.4ctw J MRBs:
9_img_4006.png
12c.png
 

Asscherhalo_lover

Ideal_Rock
Trade
Joined
Aug 16, 2007
Messages
5,099
I have had both, .70ct BGD modern studs and now 1.30ct OEC studs. They cost the same :) I prefer the fire and chunkier light play of the old cuts. That said I do plan on resetting them into modern RB (or preferably single cut) halos for extra bling and a permanent home. Best of both worlds!
 

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
57,722
I wrestled with this last year and came to the conclusion (with some advice from those who had tried both) that I think the brilliance and brightness of excellent cut mrb's in studs will show up best on the ears, whereas the beauty of old cuts can be highlighted better in something like beautiful antique style drop earrings (such as Beverley K style or real antique earrings). I think the color can be in H-J for the ex cut rounds (I have H but have seen I and J color studs which are gorgeous!!!!) I upgraded my WF studs to over a carat each in 2015 and I am 100% sure that I made the right decision for myself (and that means a lot considering how indecisive I can be!). I have the antique style drop earrings on my wishlist!!

So having both solves the dilemma!
 

jeweln

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 21, 2011
Messages
674
Hi Yessie ,
Thanks for the detailed reply . I loved your big OECs which you had sold . do you like your current RBs better ? in the pics there isn't much difference between them except for the size ,both look spectacular .
my current studs are 1.2 ctw Rbs ,and I want to upgrade to 2 ctw . but can't decide whether to go for RBs or Oecs .
 

jeweln

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 21, 2011
Messages
674
Diamondseeker ,
I love your new stud upgrade , they look fabulous on you .
Asscherhalo lover , I am leaning towards the OECs , all my diamonds are RBs and I want something different .
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 14, 2009
Messages
22,575
jeweln|1452097800|3971650 said:
Hi Yessie ,
Thanks for the detailed reply . I loved your big OECs which you had sold . do you like your current RBs better ? in the pics there isn't much difference between them except for the size ,both look spectacular .
my current studs are 1.2 ctw Rbs ,and I want to upgrade to 2 ctw . but can't decide whether to go for RBs or Oecs .

I do prefer my MRBs, but... they're so much bigger, and I LOVE big studs - I don't know that I'm capable of a fair comparison! A big part of my choice was financial: I chose to find a stone I already owned a mate so the whole project cost half what it otherwise would have, much less than buying a pair of J/K OECs in this size. I adore my studs, and I'm glad they're MRBs because the MRB advantages are things I personally value and prioritise... but goodness, I adored my OECs, too! Helpful, I know :-o

In that size (2ctw) I think the differences between MRBs and OECs - both faceting and light play - become quite apparent, so I think your personal preference (if you have one!) becomes that much more important. I really like DS' solution of MRBs for studs and old cuts for dangly earrings wherein the overall earring style is much more obvious ::)

I do strongly prefer round stones for studs to avoid spinning concerns - I know misaligned shapes would drive me nutty :bigsmile:
 
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