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Newb trying to design a cutom prongles ring. Please help.

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chudilo

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I was looking for a prongles semi-tension ring, because I do not like the look of prongs.
the only rings I''ve found so far were Pauls Klecka (they wanted $2500+ for a setting with no stones) and the other Scicci is only out in Chicago so I am unable to see it in person.

I have a jeweler who is willing to custom manufacture my own ring for me for my particular stone.
Thus I decided to enbark on this adventrue to design a ring to my own liking (mine and Fiance''s).
I do have about 3.5 yrs of art education (after school program), so I think I am capable. However I''ve never dealt with any precious metals and thus will need quite a bit of guidance.

Here is my first sketch of the ring. I ''ve realized from other similar designs the part holding up the stone must be very think to prevent it from bending and thus losening up the hold of the stone. and thus I have designed the following.

View from top. The LEFT site is the way I want it. Original image with prongs was borrowed from blue nile.
 

valeria101

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Can't see the picture...
7.gif


In the meantime, there might be a very classic idea that fits your description:

2b_1.JPG

e1_1.JPG
 

valeria101

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Nevermind, I found it on your other thread:

custsetting.jpg


Congratulations for the wonderful idea ! I wish I culd see the side view.

Just one thing: is the culet of the diamond aiming towards the center of the bar underneath it or asymetrically on the side ? It is not clear from the picture - at least not to me.
38.gif
 

Ukieza

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That looks cool.. I did mine in a evaluation CAD program and they ended up using my file to actually build the ring. Kinda scary but pretty cool all in the same! If you could try to repost some pics that would be great! I''d love to see it!

Ukieza
 

maggiepie

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http://www.crossjewelers.com/dia/sgc/default.htm

I really like that setting! If you look at the above link, cross jewelers in Portland Maine makes one very somilar except it is a full bezel. I inquired about it a few months ago - I think the all platinum setting is $1500 and yellow gold with a platinum bezel is $1000. The one you have designed is great though!
 

chudilo

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Sorry abotu the missing image.. Aparently onece theere is an error durin upload.. you can not fix it during an edit.

custsettop1a.jpg
 

valeria101

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Date: 6/29/2005 9:49:14 AM
Author: maggiepie

cross jewelers in Portland Maine makes one very somilar except it is a full bezel.
This is nice too !

sgg.jpg


Sorry for the huge picture... their whole page is just one piece.

I've posted it for just one reason. Somewhere among your posts, Chudilo, you mention that the weight of the designer setting you have tried out was more than desirable, but needs to be so for the band to hold the diamond safely. If a ful bezel is used (or there is some undercarriage - be it aslittle as ring under the girdle of the stone, like this one below - the band does not have to be heavy anymore.

Here are some different ways to deal with this:

joe4big.gif
ctPLT1323thumb.gif
ep8big.jpg

J. Clapper Weddingband.com Etienne Perret
 

elepri

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Also a half-bezel doesn't require a thick band (like the one in the middle that Valeria posted). My ring is very similar to that and it has a pretty thin band.
 

Ukieza

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From his diagram he wants something a little thicker.. .no? What are you thinking for thickness? 2mm, 3mm, 4mm????

Ukieza
 

chudilo

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Thickness isn''t the question here. Whatever it takes to hold the stone well. All similar rings liek it have a very thick top so that the stone doesn''t come loose if you bang the ring on something.
 

Ukieza

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What size stone is in it? I either can''t find it now or you never mentioned what size you were looking for. Just out of curiousity. ;-)

Ukieza
 

chudilo

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The stone is a 1.22 carrat. Round Ideal cut.
 

Ukieza

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Something like this?

This is about a finger size 7. I did it in about an hour using an evaluation copy of Rhino3D. Sorry about the grey lines.. those are also because of the evaluation of their renderer called Flamingo.

The part that bites the diamond wasn''t really worked much. Just getting the basic shape. ;-) I can render from other angles if you wish or play more with the tension part. Kinda fun.

Ukieza

UkiSemiTension.jpg
 

tonysgeko

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Chudilo, have you seen this? Similar to your design but the difference is the split.
solitaire-a101_0117_2x400.jpg

The 2nd pic is something I found during a search.

waredesign.jpg
 

Ukieza

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Wow! That Atelier Salence looks really cool! I don''t like tension rings that much but that one is sweet looking!

Good find!

-Ukieza
 

chudilo

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That ring is pretty cool loking. But there is no way that would consider buying something this unconventional without seing it in person first, and he works out of Belgium :)

I''m actually driving out out to Portland Maine to check out another ring I''m interesed in buying. But Belgium is just a bit too far
38.gif
 

Ukieza

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Haha.. yeah.. I wouldn''t want to drive from Maine to Belguim either. I don''t blame you there. The thing about doing custom is before you get the real ring.. you get the wax model of it that they use for casting so you can see what it looks like. Being the artist that you are.. you could have them whip something up for you quick with fair amount of specification. *shrugs* So you''ll have your local place (or not local) show it to you (ship it to you and you have to ship back) then build it from there.

Ukieza
 

chudilo

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I''m in NYC .. going to Maine to take a look at it , and order if I like it.
 

chudilo

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Does anyone who actually designed a non prong setting ring have anythig to say ?
I would really appreciate if someone would share the experience.
 

tonysgeko

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Chudilo, just found this one.
R06_l.jpg

edited: to fix mispelling.
 

chudilo

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Don''t like the last one posted. Too square. Not feminine enough. I''m trying to get something elegant. Although it may be ok for a certin type of a hand.
 

valeria101

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Date: 7/4/2005 8:01:51 PM
Author: chudilo

Not feminine enough.
You know these, right...
ring_7.jpg
from Christian Bauer

But how about woodgrain metal ?
lsingleplat.jpg


And prong-less rings from Goldworks (Ted Hendrickson designs):
diamond-ring.jpg
2.jpg



And Garry's diamond showcase device
2.gif

320x375.aspx

... just in case tension set turns out to be the solution after all. Even if not, the proportions and profile of the band are so obviously played in favor of the stone, that I just had to add the link.
 

Sundial

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Don''t know if you found what you are looking for or if you are going custom, but you might check out Claude Thibaudeau''s designs. He has someone gorgeous engagements rings without prongs. A number of different jewelers carry his designs. The website is creationthibaudeau.com
 

tonysgeko

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No prongs on 1st.
bridal-group4-big2.jpg

Even though the 2nd has prongs, at least it has the bridge underneath.
bridal-group6-big1.jpg

Chudilo, were you able to take a pic of the ring setting in Maine? I''ld like
to see.
 

chudilo

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Tony , thank you for your suggestions. How exactly do you evision wearing those latest sugestions of yours? The angled one seems infinitely uncomfortable.
The second monster looking one is 1. Monster looking. 2. looks like something more suitable for a biker chick(or dude).

Valeria. you''re very helpful as always. I saw a couple of settings like the ones you just posted in person.
I am not a big fan of the look of a yellow gold setting.
The wood pattern may be a fun idea, but I do not think it will look good in person ,so much so that I am not even willing to spend the time looking for it.
 

chudilo

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I did go the see the setting out in Maine. I loved it. And even though my jeweler "the college friend that I bought the rock through" has said that she can get her designer to produce something that will look just like "Golden Gate" setting for around $1000 I decided to go ahead and order it from Cross Jewelers (even if they did finally decide to charge me 1700 total)
the decision was based on the fact that they offered to run a Sarin report on my diamond free of charge. And the fact that the setting on display was slightly imperfect. However when I brought it to the attention of the salesperson that was showing it to me, she said that the one on display was made for display only and that the real setting would be made much better, and has brought out a very well made setting without a stone from the back. she also offered to put down "perfection" on the order to make sure that their staff would pay special attention to detail when they manufacture the setting.
I personally think that overpaying slightly will allow me to demand the best possible quality, which was the whole reason for driving down there.
 

valeria101

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Date: 7/6/2005 1:39:27 AM
Author: chudilo

I decided to go ahead and order it from Cross Jewelers (even if they did finally decide to charge me 1700 total)
You know what ? That is my favorite on the list too... for a round stone.

As for the cost, well, ''the more you search, the more you pay'' seems close to the truth, although other options were more.

Will you consider posting the finished ring ?
 

maggiepie

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Oh, good...I am glad you got the one from Cross also. I was interested in it, and they actually mailed me a sample with a QZ to look at. I decided eventually on another setting becasue I decided I didnt want platinum (and I didnt like the color of their yg), but I really thought that it was a beautiful setting.

It looks very elegant and understated on, and it sits low enough that it doesnt get in the way.

Good choice, I think!

Please post pitures!
 

sevens one

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What an excellent choice. I can''t wait to see it.
 

chudilo

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I,most certainly,will post pictures of the finished ring. You guys helped me picking the setting, I'll have it properly documented for readers of the forum in the future. I think it's kind of my responsibility to provide useful content and add value to this forum.
The friend of mine that went along with me on the road trip tried taking a couple pictures with my fancy camera. But that didn't work out too well. He's not that great with SLR cameras and he was trying to hold the camera and the ring at the same time. There was too much camera shake to produce anything worth posting. I myself told him to use the macro setting but personally was just too nervous hold the ring. (after a 5.5 hr drive). Plus I was busy with the sales person.
I promise once I get the ring back I will do whatever it takes to produce good quality images of the ring.
 
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