First, gratuitous ring pics!
The Process
I began looking for my center diamond and setting around the same time, early 2021. I knew early on that I would likely source the stone separately and if i found a setting I liked enough, great! If not, I knew I could always go custom. Although my diamond and setting selection process are described separately, they did occur simultaneously.
The Diamond Process
I agonized over the RBC center stone size, even going to so far as to purchase a 0.6 ct equivalent CZ so i could have more time to sit with it. I tentatively decided on a 0.50-0.70 ct range. I had tried larger stones (0.90ct and over a carat) and decided i wanted something more proprtional to my finger (4.5 finger size). As an aside, I developed something called the one-third rule. I'm not sure if this is a thing already, but to my eye, on my finger, the carat size that looked best took up approximately one third of my finger width. It's what I found most aesthetically pleasing and ultimately how I decided on my desired carat range.
Now that I had figured out carats, the next was clarity. I am not including cut as I already knew I wanted an "excellent" cut, but at this point did not know how much variation there was with regards to fire and brilliance even amongst excellent cuts. I also knew I wanted colourless and the lowest I wanted to go was an F colour. Looking back, I probably could have gone with a G that was well cut, but I'm happiest with my F. I admit, I was 6 months younger and naive and had it in my mind that I needed a VVS1 diamond. Initially, inclusions of any type beyond a single pinpoint were very bothersome to me. It was with this mindset that I bought an IF, 0.70 ct, GIA excellent, F colour from blue nile. I figured that at this price point, I coukd have it all; cut, clarity, colour, carats.
www.bluenile.com
I recieved the diamond and was underwhelmed. The diamond looked flat and didn't sparkle. I even brought it to a store so I could compare to similiar carat and colour stones, and man did it look horrible in comparison. After some thought I returned this diamond and kept searching. I looked at pavillion angles etc and at the end of the day, realized that I wasn't skilled enough to estimate light performance based on crappy video and dimensions alone. I did work with a gemologist locally who found some good stones for me, but the markup was too high for me to justify going through them. It was at this point that I decided to bite the bullet and start seriously considering Whiteflash's ACA. I ended up finding a 0.742 ct, VS2, F diamond that was actually priced well and I knew I would likely be happy with. I got comfortable with the inclusions, because hey, unless the inclusions were severe enough to affect performance, did it really matter? My underwhelming experience with BN and the IF diamond I previously purchased helped convince me that I should definitely compromise on clarity in favour of cut. I also needed to be okay with a lower clarity anyways due to Whiteflash's higher prices. As predicted, I was very happy with my choice from whiteflash
The Setting
I knew I wanted a vintage/romantic style, and initially gravitated towards milgrain and filligree, as I have a custom tanzanite pendant that incorporates those aspects.
A lot of the vintage styles that incorporated what I wanted looked either too heavy or too thick on my finger.
I got a little closer with another ring, although it was set with a cushion cut. At this point I had not found my diamond yet, so I did consider this, but the diamond colour was far below what I was comfortable with and I was still paying a premium. I didn't like the setting enough to use it as my inspiration and go custom, mainly because I had seen this style shank many times before online, and it just wasn't unique enough for me.
I finally found a style I fell in love with, but it was made in such a way that the center diamond was pushed high up away from the shank. I work with my hands and wear gloves, so this was a no-no for me. I did contact the manufacturer and, as you'd expect, they were not able to alter that for me. Custom, it was. I reached out to a few different stores for quotes, and got a huge range. As low as $1900 CAD to as high as $3600 CAD for the setting alone. I do strongly suggest getting multiple quotes as I found once they discerned that it was an engagement ring, the price shot up. Even the individual that made my custom pendant for me at a reasonable price came out on the higher end. Luckily for me, the $1900 quote was from the same jeweler who designed and fabricated my brother's wedding ring so I knew he would do a good job.
In terms of the custom process,. I initially compiled a google drive folder with a number of photos and video of my inspiration ring. I also included a brief overview of what I liked and did not like. My jeweler had a lot of concerns about the longevity of the ring if it was to be fabricated the same as the inspiration ring. In short, the center stone setting was poorly supported and there wasn't enough material around the shank cutouts to make it durable. He worked with me to ensure he was staying true to the elements I loved, but also integrated a number of changes to help with the longevity of the ring. We went through a few iterations of the CAD, and two wax moulds. Frankly I would have been happy with the first wax mould but he is a perfectionist and wanted to tweak some things.
Overall, I could not be happier with the workmanship and the finished product. I don't think I'll ever look down at my ring and not smile.
The Process
I began looking for my center diamond and setting around the same time, early 2021. I knew early on that I would likely source the stone separately and if i found a setting I liked enough, great! If not, I knew I could always go custom. Although my diamond and setting selection process are described separately, they did occur simultaneously.
The Diamond Process
I agonized over the RBC center stone size, even going to so far as to purchase a 0.6 ct equivalent CZ so i could have more time to sit with it. I tentatively decided on a 0.50-0.70 ct range. I had tried larger stones (0.90ct and over a carat) and decided i wanted something more proprtional to my finger (4.5 finger size). As an aside, I developed something called the one-third rule. I'm not sure if this is a thing already, but to my eye, on my finger, the carat size that looked best took up approximately one third of my finger width. It's what I found most aesthetically pleasing and ultimately how I decided on my desired carat range.
Now that I had figured out carats, the next was clarity. I am not including cut as I already knew I wanted an "excellent" cut, but at this point did not know how much variation there was with regards to fire and brilliance even amongst excellent cuts. I also knew I wanted colourless and the lowest I wanted to go was an F colour. Looking back, I probably could have gone with a G that was well cut, but I'm happiest with my F. I admit, I was 6 months younger and naive and had it in my mind that I needed a VVS1 diamond. Initially, inclusions of any type beyond a single pinpoint were very bothersome to me. It was with this mindset that I bought an IF, 0.70 ct, GIA excellent, F colour from blue nile. I figured that at this price point, I coukd have it all; cut, clarity, colour, carats.
0.70-Carat Round Cut Diamond | Blue Nile CA
I recieved the diamond and was underwhelmed. The diamond looked flat and didn't sparkle. I even brought it to a store so I could compare to similiar carat and colour stones, and man did it look horrible in comparison. After some thought I returned this diamond and kept searching. I looked at pavillion angles etc and at the end of the day, realized that I wasn't skilled enough to estimate light performance based on crappy video and dimensions alone. I did work with a gemologist locally who found some good stones for me, but the markup was too high for me to justify going through them. It was at this point that I decided to bite the bullet and start seriously considering Whiteflash's ACA. I ended up finding a 0.742 ct, VS2, F diamond that was actually priced well and I knew I would likely be happy with. I got comfortable with the inclusions, because hey, unless the inclusions were severe enough to affect performance, did it really matter? My underwhelming experience with BN and the IF diamond I previously purchased helped convince me that I should definitely compromise on clarity in favour of cut. I also needed to be okay with a lower clarity anyways due to Whiteflash's higher prices. As predicted, I was very happy with my choice from whiteflash
Diamond | 0.742 ct F VS2 A CUT ABOVE® Hearts and Arrows Super Ideal Round Cut Loose Diamond AGS Certified | 4361913
This Whiteflash A CUT ABOVE® super ideal cut hearts and arrows 0.742 carat F color VS2 clarity loose diamond is graded by the American Gem Society (AGS) Laboratories. | 4361913
www.whiteflash.com
The Setting
I knew I wanted a vintage/romantic style, and initially gravitated towards milgrain and filligree, as I have a custom tanzanite pendant that incorporates those aspects.
A lot of the vintage styles that incorporated what I wanted looked either too heavy or too thick on my finger.
I got a little closer with another ring, although it was set with a cushion cut. At this point I had not found my diamond yet, so I did consider this, but the diamond colour was far below what I was comfortable with and I was still paying a premium. I didn't like the setting enough to use it as my inspiration and go custom, mainly because I had seen this style shank many times before online, and it just wasn't unique enough for me.
I finally found a style I fell in love with, but it was made in such a way that the center diamond was pushed high up away from the shank. I work with my hands and wear gloves, so this was a no-no for me. I did contact the manufacturer and, as you'd expect, they were not able to alter that for me. Custom, it was. I reached out to a few different stores for quotes, and got a huge range. As low as $1900 CAD to as high as $3600 CAD for the setting alone. I do strongly suggest getting multiple quotes as I found once they discerned that it was an engagement ring, the price shot up. Even the individual that made my custom pendant for me at a reasonable price came out on the higher end. Luckily for me, the $1900 quote was from the same jeweler who designed and fabricated my brother's wedding ring so I knew he would do a good job.
In terms of the custom process,. I initially compiled a google drive folder with a number of photos and video of my inspiration ring. I also included a brief overview of what I liked and did not like. My jeweler had a lot of concerns about the longevity of the ring if it was to be fabricated the same as the inspiration ring. In short, the center stone setting was poorly supported and there wasn't enough material around the shank cutouts to make it durable. He worked with me to ensure he was staying true to the elements I loved, but also integrated a number of changes to help with the longevity of the ring. We went through a few iterations of the CAD, and two wax moulds. Frankly I would have been happy with the first wax mould but he is a perfectionist and wanted to tweak some things.
Overall, I could not be happier with the workmanship and the finished product. I don't think I'll ever look down at my ring and not smile.
300x240.png)