Melee size for halo

[PrincessNana]

I’m getting a new setting and I cannot decide the halo size
Is delicate halo going to make the main stone bigger (like the one on the middle) or slightly bigger sized melee go better with my 0.9ct stone (like the one the right)? If I had a bigger centre stone, I would definitely pick delicate halo but what do you think for a smaller centre stone like mine?


The one on the left without halo is my current ring
Two halls are with fake centre stones


I went Cartier to try their Halo
Both are 0.9
I like the look but do you think this got too much metal with small stones?



This one is with bigger melee (about 0.01ct?)
The centre stone is 0.9ct

 

[PrincessNana]

Cartier halo ring with 0.9ct centre stone

 

[rockysalamander]

I prefer the smaller melee, but not every jeweler is capable of setting such small stones. Will this be a custom setting or stock?

 

[Vivatwo]

I prefer the smaller melee as well, although I think it’s more of a personal preference. I prefer a delicate halo, like the Tacori Dantela. (I don’t like the look of my own Ritani halo, which has .02s.)

 

[PrincessNana]

I prefer the smaller melee, but not every jeweler is capable of setting such small stones. Will this be a custom setting or stock?

Hi
Thank you for your reply.
It’ll be a custom setting. Smaller stones looks nice even with my small stone?
They showed me two drawing
One is with 1mm 20 stones
The other one is with 1.35mm 16 stones

 

[PrincessNana]

 

[Lookinagain]

I'm another one that likes the smaller melee. I think it let's your center stone be the star.

 

[rockysalamander]

Its XMas day in the US, so you might get more action later.

My first rule of custom ring design is "do you have to go custom? Is the design so unique that you can't find it already made?" This design looks to be pretty straight-forward 2-sided pave. So, its available on the market.

My second rule, "is the jeweler you are working with capable of executing this specific and exact design?" Have you personally seen rings like this that they actually made from CAD to finish? Are you happy with that outcome? What role did the jeweller actually play in the design?

A jeweler who can set stone is different from a fully custom and intricate setting like this. Those rendering provide me little assurance of their abilities and don't' provide critical details. (they are rendering, not the CAD. I would ask for the cad with every detailed with a grided background). To me, the head is too high relative to the shank, the CAD does not show you how they will set the stones, and the pave struts likely need to be arc'd inward to allow a flush band (if that is important to you).

Did they talk to you about the pluses and minuses of this design? This whole design with diamonds on the sides of the shank will eat any ring you sit next to it. So, you'll have to have a sacrificial spacer band between this and your read wedding ring. Also, resizing will be difficult to impossible. Fingers change over time and that is a real issue. The diamonds on the "side" of the halo can be very pretty, but the edge where the top and bottom meet will always have a strong visually line and that can make your stone look smaller. A falling-edge style halo (single or double) blurs the line between the center and edges making the center look bigger.

This style halo is more wearable and forgiving of resizing as it removes the pave on the side of the shank.
https://www.jamesallen.com/engageme...-edge-pave-diamond-engagement-ring-item-49492

Same design concept, hand forged.
https://www.victorcanera.com/rings/engagement/the-emilya-with-flush-fitting-stems

Double sided halo from a custom vendor I've worked with.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bm_Da1VlnFM/

Rather than double sided halo with bigger stones, what about a double halo with tiny stones on the interior row. That will visually blend into your stone better and make it look bigger.

Threads about double-sided halo. The maker matters as to how small the melee can be and how much visually blurring occurs along the halo margin.
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/double-edge-halo.214489/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/2-sided-halo-setting-from-maytal-hannah.226188/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/victor-canera-goes-electric-and-blue.222147/

Others will chime in a bit later...

 

[LLJsmom]

I definitely prefer smaller stones. But just as importantly the halo must be well executed with minimal metal. Look at the examples @rockysalamander linked and you will be able to tell which look better. Be very careful of your choice of jeweler. I would not choose one unless I can see an example of them having executed one that you like already.

 

[lovedogs]

Yes to everything that @rockysalamander said. I don't think you need to go custom here, and it's likely not worth the risk given that you can find this on the market. But I also prefer smaller melee stones.

 

[WillyDiamond]

OP
Welcome to the forum. When all is said and done, it is usually a discussion but left up to the jeweler you choose to do the work. You may want to check out Victor Canera, Steven Kirsch, and Brilliantly Engaged to the do the halo work for you. You will find pricing in that order, also. The avatar in this post is my wife's ring from BE (worked with Chris).
Just one other observation, although its tough from pictures, the halo's you posted have an "air line" between the center stone and the halo, make sure that is what you want. Many like the ring not to have the air line and therefore the center stone fits flush with the halo. I am going to post the picture of my wife's ER, showing it w/o the air line. It is personal taste for sure. The halo are 1 pointers with smaller stones on the shank

 

[PrincessNana]

Its XMas day in the US, so you might get more action later.

My first rule of custom ring design is "do you have to go custom? Is the design so unique that you can't find it already made?" This design looks to be pretty straight-forward 2-sided pave. So, its available on the market.

My second rule, "is the jeweler you are working with capable of executing this specific and exact design?" Have you personally seen rings like this that they actually made from CAD to finish? Are you happy with that outcome? What role did the jeweller actually play in the design?

A jeweler who can set stone is different from a fully custom and intricate setting like this. Those rendering provide me little assurance of their abilities and don't' provide critical details. (they are rendering, not the CAD. I would ask for the cad with every detailed with a grided background). To me, the head is too high relative to the shank, the CAD does not show you how they will set the stones, and the pave struts likely need to be arc'd inward to allow a flush band (if that is important to you).

Did they talk to you about the pluses and minuses of this design? This whole design with diamonds on the sides of the shank will eat any ring you sit next to it. So, you'll have to have a sacrificial spacer band between this and your read wedding ring. Also, resizing will be difficult to impossible. Fingers change over time and that is a real issue. The diamonds on the "side" of the halo can be very pretty, but the edge where the top and bottom meet will always have a strong visually line and that can make your stone look smaller. A falling-edge style halo (single or double) blurs the line between the center and edges making the center look bigger.

This style halo is more wearable and forgiving of resizing as it removes the pave on the side of the shank.
https://www.jamesallen.com/engageme...-edge-pave-diamond-engagement-ring-item-49492

Same design concept, hand forged.
https://www.victorcanera.com/rings/engagement/the-emilya-with-flush-fitting-stems

Double sided halo from a custom vendor I've worked with.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bm_Da1VlnFM/

Rather than double sided halo with bigger stones, what about a double halo with tiny stones on the interior row. That will visually blend into your stone better and make it look bigger.

Threads about double-sided halo. The maker matters as to how small the melee can be and how much visually blurring occurs along the halo margin.
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/double-edge-halo.214489/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/2-sided-halo-setting-from-maytal-hannah.226188/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/victor-canera-goes-electric-and-blue.222147/

Others will chime in a bit later...

Thank you for your very detailed reply and advise.
I am not located in USA. Where I am from and where I currently live have very limited choices of the halo settings. I haven't seen any shops that sells two sided halo here. So I decided to go for a custom ring. I haven't seen their CAD. I am not sure it's something they can provide to me, but I will ask. I should probably consider the option of ordering from US online store and ship it to here, then set the center stone at the local jeweler.
All the links you have attached are very useful. I will go through the details and see what options I have.
Thank you so much for you advise.

 

[PrincessNana]

OP
Welcome to the forum. When all is said and done, it is usually a discussion but left up to the jeweler you choose to do the work. You may want to check out Victor Canera, Steven Kirsch, and Brilliantly Engaged to the do the halo work for you. You will find pricing in that order, also. The avatar in this post is my wife's ring from BE (worked with Chris).
Just one other observation, although its tough from pictures, the halo's you posted have an "air line" between the center stone and the halo, make sure that is what you want. Many like the ring not to have the air line and therefore the center stone fits flush with the halo. I am going to post the picture of my wife's ER, showing it w/o the air line. It is personal taste for sure. The halo are 1 pointers with smaller stones on the shank

Your wife's ring is very beautiful.
1 pointers with your large stone looks very nice. I think your center stone is much bigger.
I wish I could upgrade my center stone, but this is not an option for now.

The air line was something I wanted to ask too. Air line is the gap between center stone and halo, and is it something you can see from the top or only from the side?
When there is no air line, the center stone sits flush with halo and it will make the stone bigger?

Thank you in advance.

 

[PrincessNana]

I prefer the smaller melee as well, although I think it’s more of a personal preference. I prefer a delicate halo, like the Tacori Dantela. (I don’t like the look of my own Ritani halo, which has .02s.)

Your ring looks beautiful. You are so lucky to have such a beautiful ring

 

[PrincessNana]

I definitely prefer smaller stones. But just as importantly the halo must be well executed with minimal metal. Look at the examples @rockysalamander linked and you will be able to tell which look better. Be very careful of your choice of jeweler. I would not choose one unless I can see an example of them having executed one that you like already.

Than you for your adivse.
Is it harder to executed with minimal metal when it's made in Platinum and not in white gold?
The jeweler here seems to be hesitated to costume made in platinum and they told me it's harder for them to create more delicate rings than the one made in white gold. Is this true?
The one I saw in the Cartier seems to have more metals and I thought it might be related, but I am not sure.

 

[PrincessNana]

Yes to everything that @rockysalamander said. I don't think you need to go custom here, and it's likely not worth the risk given that you can find this on the market. But I also prefer smaller melee stones.

Thank you for your adivse.
I think I will try to find the non-custom option.
Where I live doesn't have much choice, but I will see if I can find online that ship internationally from US.

 

[rockysalamander]

This won't compare to Cartier quality, but here are some stock options.
https://www.stuller.com/products/67...yId=21345&recommendationSource=CategoryBrowse
https://www.since1910.com/snt367-rolled-cushion-halo-diamond-engagement-ring
https://www.since1910.com/snt319-rolled-round-halo-diamond-engagement-ring

 

[Vivatwo]

Just another thought, the angle of the halo makes a difference as well. Instead of being set parallel to the main stone, its tilted. I have seen this setting and the pictures do not do it justice.

 

[rockysalamander]

Just another thought, the angle of the halo makes a difference as well. Instead of being set parallel to the main stone, its tilted. I have seen this setting and the pictures do not do it justice.

Pretty option

 

[rockysalamander]

These are from a known vendor that a lot of PS members use. Melee sizes differ.
https://idjewelry.com/0-64-ct-diamo...n-14k-white-gold-double-halo-er9438w44jj.html
https://idjewelry.com/0-74-ct-diamo...n-14k-white-gold-double-halo-er7502w44jj.html
https://idjewelry.com/1-03-ct-diamo...n-14k-white-gold-double-halo-er9439w44jj.html

Bezel outline may be a bit too distinct
https://idjewelry.com/inspired-vint...tones-in-14k-white-gold-0-57ct-tw-cr390w.html

 

[PrincessNana]

Thank you for sharing many options @rockysalamander and @Vivatwo
There are a lot of pretty options! I like few of them you've suggested.
I will check if any of these vendors do international shipping. If they do, I think it's probably best to get the semi-mounting than costume made.
Thank you.

 

[Acinom]

Exciting project for you! What is your budget for your ring? This might help to guide you in the right direction. A lot of PSers have worked with David Klass. If you send him inspiration pics he will able to create a ring specific for your needs. For custom project he is relatively affordable and he does international shipping. I have had some settings made by David and I live in Europe.
My two halo rings are made by Victor Canera. Everything is handforged and he is a master in proportions. Both rings have two-sided halos (no metal is seen from the sides/profile).

 

[PrincessNana]

Exciting project for you! What is your budget for your ring? This might help to guide you in the right direction. A lot of PSers have worked with David Klass. If you send him inspiration pics he will able to create a ring specific for your needs. For custom project he is relatively affordable and he does international shipping. I have had some settings made by David and I live in Europe.
My two halo rings are made by Victor Canera. Everything is handforged and he is a master in proportions. Both rings have two-sided halos (no metal is seen from the sides/profile).

Wow! Very beautiful ring‼︎
Did you have to send the centre stones to him? I’m little bit worried to send my diamond overseas . I would be more comfortable to get the setting from US and set it locally but not sure if it’s poddible.

 

[PrincessNana]

Sorry for the typo
I wanted to type “if it’s possible “

 

[Acinom]

Wow! Very beautiful ring‼︎
Did you have to send the centre stones to him? I’m little bit worried to send my diamond overseas . I would be more comfortable to get the setting from US and set it locally but not sure if it’s poddible.

The stones were indeed directly send from the stone vendor to Victor Canera.
Victor also made a setting for my 5.3 CT OEC diamond and it was Locally set by a jeweller in Antwerp. I do not think it is feasible with a halo setting though to have the setting made without having the diamond in hand. You need to ask Victor or other vendors. Also, you need to consider that you might have to pay duty on the whole ring (setting and diamond) when the ring is shipped to your country.

 

[laurenk]

I have half pointers around my 2.01carat pear. The smaller the halo stones the more emphasis on the center stone in my opinion. Victor canera set mine.

 

[msop04]

I would definitely go with the smaller melee stones. I would also ask for a quote from David Klass. He has made several rings for me and TONS of pieces for other PS members. His prices are more than fair and the quality is amazing. He made this halo ring for me (although it is now with another lovely PS member).

If you're interested in adding a little more size to your ring, you should consider a bezeled halo... adding an airline (if you like the look) will add even more size. I've included DK's CAD of the ring below to show what I mean.



...you could do a very petite bezel with your 0.90 ct stone to add size.

 

[PrincessNana]

I have half pointers around my 2.01carat pear. The smaller the halo stones the more emphasis on the center stone in my opinion. Victor canera set mine.

Your pear shaped diamond is very beautiful
Thank you for sharing

 

[PrincessNana]

I would definitely go with the smaller melee stones. I would also ask for a quote from David Klass. He has made several rings for me and TONS of pieces for other PS members. His prices are more than fair and the quality is amazing. He made this halo ring for me (although it is now with another lovely PS member).

If you're interested in adding a little more size to your ring, you should consider a bezeled halo... adding an airline (if you like the look) will add even more size. I've included DK's CAD of the ring below to show what I mean.



...you could do a very petite bezel with your 0.90 ct stone to add size.

Your ring is very unique and beautiful!
I never considered bazaled halo before but your ring is so beautiful and love it!
I like the idea of adding bazaled
halo now
Did you design your own ring or was it Designed by David Klass?

 

[lambskin]

Size matters. The problem I have with halos is, IMHO, too small melee diamonds look white and or metallic from the settings when viewed alongside the center diamond. I feel that the smaller diamonds do not accentuate the center diamond but rather they can detract if the setting is elaborate or they can make a lower color diamond look warmer. Melee size and setting also has to take into account plans for a diamond wedding band. The Cartier rings posted by PrincessNana above (especially the one closer to the hand) appear to have nice size melee that do not look white. I give credit to anyone who designs their own halo rings as the melee size and ring design really require math skills, an eye for precision, and patience-qualities I do not have. Good luck and can't wait to see the finished ring.