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Jewellers say “It’s impossible”

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Ozgirl

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I have an idea for a ring, and tried searching various internet jewellery stores but couldn’t find what I wanted, so spoke to 3 jewellers to see about getting it custom made and all of them said it wasn’t possible as well.


What I want is an eternity style channel set band with princess cut diamonds which sounds simple enough except I want each of the diamonds to be a different colour, graduating from a pure white D through to a really vivid yellow diamond and its got to have a Z colour stone in there somewhere.


So what do you think? Is it really not possible (as the jewellers seem to think) or can the experts on Pricescope help me prove them wrong?


I did a search on all the Pricescope forums and found one post which showed a photo of a ring Fly Girl used to have which had sidestones in graduating colour (https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/looking-for-maximum-wearability.56260/), so that gives me hope that it can be done.


Any help/advice you can give will be much appreciated.
 
I assume you are in australia. Jewelers here my not have the ability or feel that it is worth their time to source diamonds for such a ring.

It sounds like a really special piece and I can't see why it would be impossible. It would probably take extra time and work to find all the stones and may come at an extra cost financially. I'm sure there would be someone in the US willing to take on such a task. I imagine it would be much easier to find using round stones but that would take away from of the effect.
 
Date: 8/29/2009 2:43:25 AM
Author:Ozgirl

I have an idea for a ring, and tried searching various internet jewellery stores but couldn’t find what I wanted, so spoke to 3 jewellers to see about getting it custom made and all of them said it wasn’t possible as well.



What I want is an eternity style channel set band with princess cut diamonds which sounds simple enough except I want each of the diamonds to be a different colour, graduating from a pure white D through to a really vivid yellow diamond and its got to have a Z colour stone in there somewhere.



So what do you think? Is it really not possible (as the jewellers seem to think) or can the experts on Pricescope help me prove them wrong?



I did a search on all the Pricescope forums and found one post which showed a photo of a ring Fly Girl used to have which had sidestones in graduating colour (https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/looking-for-maximum-wearability.56260/), so that gives me hope that it can be done.



Any help/advice you can give will be much appreciated.
Sure it can be done..., is it practical (both in time and $$$) is the other question....

$$$ and time..., emphasis on the latter...

Do you have the ''unrestricted'' time? (Its not going to fast).
Are you willing to pay the jeweler his wishes for his time?? (Dont expect to compare costs to other design work)...
A "Z" color graded by who? Do you expect all Diamonds to have a Lab report? What size Diamonds were you contemplating?

It can be done..., is it worth the hassle and $$$..., will be up to you.
 
Yes I'm in Australia and I think you might be right about Australian jewellers. I knew after searching the internet it wouldnt be easy but I was sure someone would be willing to make it specially and as you say charge me extra for the privilege, but I just got a flat out "No" from all the ones I spoke to.
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I'm sure if I was America or UK it would be much easier.
 
Hi DiaGem,

timewise I'm not really in a rush. I realise that sourcing the stones will not be that easy, and because I want the stones to be certificated (preferably by GIA or equivalent) I know that will add to the time factor.

$$$-wise, I know I'll have to pay a premium for what I want, and have factored that into the equation, but I can see the finished ring very clearly in my mind and know that it will be worth it for me.

If I can take whats in my mind and translate it to reality it will be awesome.

PS. I did say very clearly to each of the jewellers that I knew it wasnt an easy request and would take time to source the diamonds, but they werent interested in doing it.
 
Maybe try Etienne Perret. He does great things with well-matched colored diamonds. Some colors may result from various treatments though.
 
Date: 8/29/2009 3:15:05 AM
Author: Ozgirl
Hi DiaGem,

timewise I''m not really in a rush. I realise that sourcing the stones will not be that easy, and because I want the stones to be certificated (preferably by GIA or equivalent) I know that will add to the time factor.

What sizes where you contemplating...,the GIA issues diamond grading reports for Diamonds in the D-Z color range that weigh 0.15 carats or more.

$$$-wise, I know I''ll have to pay a premium for what I want, and have factored that into the equation, but I can see the finished ring very clearly in my mind and know that it will be worth it for me.

When it comes to time for professional services..., the costs can overpass your expectation..., will you be ok with the fact that the cost factors might be significantly more than the materials itself? If the answer is yes..., I am certain you can find a jeweler that will take this project on..., actually it sounds like an interesting project to achieve..., (dont know about the GIA ''Z'' though....
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)


I dont know Australia..., but with the Internet today..., the world is becoming smaller...

If I can take whats in my mind and translate it to reality it will be awesome.

If.........
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, unfortunately we know the answer to this one..., dont we
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PS. I did say very clearly to each of the jewellers that I knew it wasnt an easy request and would take time to source the diamonds, but they werent interested in doing it.

There are a lot of jewelers out there..., and in this economy I am certain you could be successful,

Good luck..., keep us posted please.
 
Hey ozgirl,
I think your idea sounds interesting - not sure what city you''re in, but try contacting Eva Martin She is great - does really different stuff, and doesn''t seem to be constrained from the regular jeweller attitudes you are coming across
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She has sourced special stones from all over the world for her clients before, so this shouldn''t be too hard.
Although, a warning - she is pricey!

Here is a thread with some pics of her stuff from a lil while back - link

hope that helps, and pls let us know how you go!
 
Date: 8/29/2009 6:12:41 AM
Author: arjunajane
Hey ozgirl,
I think your idea sounds interesting - not sure what city you're in, but try contacting Eva Martin She is great - does really different stuff, and doesn't seem to be constrained from the regular jeweller attitudes you are coming across
5.gif

She has sourced special stones from all over the world for her clients before, so this shouldn't be too hard.
Although, a warning - she is pricey!

Here is a thread with some pics of her stuff from a lil while back - link

hope that helps, and pls let us know how you go!
Hi arjunajane.

thank you so much for this link. I think you may have solved my problem - Pricescope wins again!

I love love love the jewellery on this site and the thought and care that seems to go into each design. Plus the little "twists" that each ring has.

I will contact eva and see if she can help. I'm sure from what she says on her website she will be able to do it.

Once again thank you so much

OG

PS. Hubby may not thank you quite so much, as I think I could easily become an Eva Martin addict
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Date: 8/29/2009 9:26:18 AM
Author: Ozgirl
Date: 8/29/2009 6:12:41 AM

Author: arjunajane

Hey ozgirl,

I think your idea sounds interesting - not sure what city you''re in, but try contacting Eva Martin She is great - does really different stuff, and doesn''t seem to be constrained from the regular jeweller attitudes you are coming across
5.gif


She has sourced special stones from all over the world for her clients before, so this shouldn''t be too hard.

Although, a warning - she is pricey!


Here is a thread with some pics of her stuff from a lil while back - link


hope that helps, and pls let us know how you go!

Hi arjunajane.


thank you so much for this link. I think you may have solved my problem - Pricescope wins again!


I love love love the jewellery on this site and the thought and care that seems to go into each design. Plus the little ''twists'' that each ring has.


I will contact eva and see if she can help. I''m sure from what she says on her website she will be able to do it.


Once again thank you so much


OG


PS. Hubby may not thank you quite so much, as I think I could easily become an Eva Martin addict
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Hey ozgirl,
you''re very welcome on the link! And I think that''s great you plan to contact Eva - I agree, the personal effort and thought she puts into each piece is very impressive. And as soon as I read your description of your idea, her "ladybug ring" came to mind.
I''m sure if she can source all those individual gems she can get your diamonds, right?
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I do have a slightly selfish motivation in referring you, as Eva was outta my price league - so if you do have a piece made, please do come back and share!

(oh and tell hubby....PS strikes again
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lol).

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Date: 8/29/2009 9:43:19 AM
Author: arjunajane

Hey ozgirl,
you''re very welcome on the link! And I think that''s great you plan to contact Eva - I agree, the personal effort and thought she puts into each piece is very impressive. And as soon as I read your description of your idea, her ''ladybug ring'' came to mind.
I''m sure if she can source all those individual gems she can get your diamonds, right?
2.gif


I do have a slightly selfish motivation in referring you, as Eva was outta my price league - so if you do have a piece made, please do come back and share!

(oh and tell hubby....PS strikes again
9.gif
lol).

35.gif

just sent an email to Eva - will let you know how it goes.
 
Good luck with your project, Ozgirl. The thread you reference above was when I lost my ring, and you should have heard the moaning and groaning about having to find replacement graduated yellow sidestones. Fortunately, I found the original ring (and returned the insurance check), so no one had to go through the process for a second time. Basically, my jeweler called a supplier, and someone sat down with a pile of colored melee and pulled out matching pairs. I selected the sets that looked most pleasing in color to my eye. We were not looking to have anything color graded. I think finding the colorless and near colorless stones for your ring will be easier than when you get into the tinted range. Have you thought about what tints you are looking for? Just shades of yellow, or can there be some brownish stones in there? Also note that some of my sidestones have strong fluorescence in UV light. They actually look yellow-green in sunlight. I''m not sure if that matters to you, but it could complicate your quest. It did not matter to me if the melee was a natural yellow (they were just sidestones for my ring), so my yellows are irradiated. That saved me some money.

Interesting project, and I''ll be interested in your quest.
 
I think the challenge to your project is finding a stone with a Z grading. If a stone is that yellow rather than give it a Z rating a cutter would make more profit by cutting it into a shape that shows more color and getting into the Fancy Yellow grade.

There have been threads on PS about color and why we never see U,V,W,X,Y,Z and it was explained that since some cuts show color more than others a cutter could would cut the lower colors in shapes that get it into the Fancy Yellow range. They sell for more.
 
From what I remember GIA grades colors below N as a range. O/P or Y/Z. So from GIA at least there wouldn''t be anything that was actually just Z color. Could be EGL or other labs do things differently...

Sounds like it''ll be lovely when you get it done.
 
Anything's possible. The question is if it's practical.

My gut instinct is that a ring like this will probably have a premium of 3 to 5 times more than standard cost, and take several months to put together.

The GIA reports will add substantially to the cost and time required.

Most jewelers will probably turn you down, because they figure you're not going to want to pay what it's going to cost them to put it together, along with a reasonable profit for their time invested. If you were to pay a substantial deposit up front (half maybe?) they will be more motivated.

You need a jeweler with excellent sources who really knows what he or she is doing. If I were you, I would not insist on GIA reports for such small stones. It's overkill.
 
The most difficult aspect of making such a ring ( if one had the stones) is going to be the metal work.
A Y-Z color ( good point Kitten, GIA does not issue "Z" as a grade by itself) is yellow- however it''s light enough that if it''s set into white metal, much of the color goes away.
IN the case of contrast- where the center is yellow, and the sides are white, two tone metal will help differentiate the color of the diamonds.
There''s really no way to "graduate" the color of the metal- therefore it''s likely going to be quite difficult translating the gentle slope of colors you have in mind.
 
Several years ago I had my jeweler make a scatter band for me with diamonds in all different shades of white, yellow, orange and champagne. I second what Rockdiamond is saying about the subtle differences in color, because the color differences between my pale brown champagne diamonds were pretty much lost. I had him take out some of the champagne stones and put in more darker colored ones. My ring is 14k rose gold, and we did find that the colors of the tiny diamonds were much more apparent when we use a brushed finish on the metal, rather than a shiny finish.
 
Just chiming in to say that I can completely understand the appeal this project has for you Ozgirl. Earlier this year I saw a suite of perfectly matched in size, oval zircons that started white and went all the way through the colour spectrum to cognac. They were beyond stunning and will make someone a very lovely bracelet one day. I don''t suppose I will ever see anything like it again.

Not until that is, you come back and show us your ring! Good luck with chasing your dream.
 
I hope you find someone who can do it for you, at a price you can afford. I can''t wait to see it once it''s finished. You have to promise to come back with pics ok??
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ozgirl- I did have an idea ....
If you used high color stones and alternated with graduated ( in color) yellows, it might just work.
The whites set in white metal, the graduated yellows all set in 18kt.
Having the white stones separate the yellows might allow the visual effect you''re thinking of.
 
I think if you figured out the diameter stone you wanted and started sourcing/collecting them yourself and then brought them to a jeweler you''d have a totally different reaction.

I would love to have an eternity ring of all a single color stone but graduated so that on one side is a 1 carat and at the opposite is a 1 pointer... but that''s not going to happen for me lol Hopefully I can see one someday. I have seen graduated color bracelets...
 
Date: 8/29/2009 2:43:25 AM
Author:Ozgirl

I have an idea for a ring, and tried searching various internet jewellery stores but couldn’t find what I wanted, so spoke to 3 jewellers to see about getting it custom made and all of them said it wasn’t possible as well.



What I want is an eternity style channel set band with princess cut diamonds which sounds simple enough except I want each of the diamonds to be a different colour, graduating from a pure white D through to a really vivid yellow diamond and its got to have a Z colour stone in there somewhere.



So what do you think? Is it really not possible (as the jewellers seem to think) or can the experts on Pricescope help me prove them wrong?



I did a search on all the Pricescope forums and found one post which showed a photo of a ring Fly Girl used to have which had sidestones in graduating colour (https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/looking-for-maximum-wearability.56260/), so that gives me hope that it can be done.



Any help/advice you can give will be much appreciated.
Hoqw big are the stones that you are wanting? If they are thirds you are going to play the dickens getting them certed. If they are halves or larger it is not going to be a problem eventually, but it will be VERY time consuming and very expensive and much of the expense will have to be paid up front as the jeweler is going to spend a LOT of money finding the diamonds and having them certed.

Difficult, yes, impossible, NO!

Wink
 
Hi folks,

Thanks so much for all your support, helpful comments, and useful advice - You really are the best!

Swingirl - that's a very good point you make about Z stones. I hadnt thought of it like that and it makes perfect sense that cutters are going to want to maximize what they can get for their stones.

Rockdiamond - I hear what you are saying about white metals. Unfortunately I never wear yellow gold, so from what you've said I'm probably going to have to be more flexible with the colour grades to get the effect I want. On what you said in your second reply to me, Eva Martin (the jeweller that Arunjajane recommended) has already suggested somthing that sounds kind of similar to what you're saying.

Flygirl - thanks for the tip about the brushed metal finish (and also the original post about your ring that kept my hopes up when the Perth jewellers were being pessimistic about my idea)

Arunjajane - Eva has replied to me and definately thinks its possible - In fact she has already done a ring with a similar concept, but a much fancier design. It was just under US$8000, so hopefully my much plainer idea shouldn't be too hard for her (and hopefully cheaper!), but as she said, its the sourcing of the stones that will take the time. The one she did before took 8 months and drove her supplier scatty. She has already started contacting various diamond dealers, so it looks like it will eventually happen.

Thanks once again everyone for your help and advice. Please keep it coming - any thoughts you have to help make it possible will be much appreciated - already you've made a difference.

I will keep you all updated on my "quest". And definately post pictures if (when) the ring becomes a reality.

OG
 
Good luck. :)
 
Date: 9/5/2009 4:23:49 AM
Author: Ozgirl
Hi folks,


Thanks so much for all your support, helpful comments, and useful advice - You really are the best!




Arunjajane - Eva has replied to me and definately thinks its possible - In fact she has already done a ring with a similar concept, but a much fancier design. It was just under US$8000, so hopefully my much plainer idea shouldn''t be too hard for her (and hopefully cheaper!), but as she said, its the sourcing of the stones that will take the time. The one she did before took 8 months and drove her supplier scatty. She has already started contacting various diamond dealers, so it looks like it will eventually happen.


Thanks once again everyone for your help and advice. Please keep it coming - any thoughts you have to help make it possible will be much appreciated - already you''ve made a difference.


I will keep you all updated on my ''quest''. And definately post pictures if (when) the ring becomes a reality.


OG

Hey Ozgirl,
thanks for the update - I''m glad to hear you found Eva confident on the concept.
That is reasonably exxy (at least imho) but of course if it''s something you really want, I think she would be a good person to make it. She seems like a bit of a perfectionist.
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You''re welcome about the heads up, please do come back and update if you go ahead, it seems many here would be interested to see this project materialize. Good luck!
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That is great you have someone looking for diamonds already. I too would agree it would be very time consuming and costly but what a great diea and project. I hope to see it on PS someday.
 
Thanks for the update, Ozgirl. Please come back and add updates to this thread as your project proceeds. I''m interested in it. I hope it works out as well as you hope.
 
Fun project
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Just a little simplification advice.
Drop the GIA cert thing - think of the global warming consequences - for every stone you use several will be certified and you are in the darkzone of GIA grading. Half will be graded thru the side and half face up with little or no commonsense agreement.

There is no such thing as a Z graded princess.
 
Ozgirl - I''m just back from visiting my jewelers and she pulled out a new ring to show me. It was a Barbara Heinrich gold eternity band, bar set with diamonds ranging in color from white to yellow to dark brown, and every shade in between. It reminded me so much of your project, although the stone colors were randomized a bit, and not set in order of color. And, they were rounds, not princess cuts. Anyhow, I was wondering if Barbara might be worth contacting. I''m attaching a link to her website. Link
 
Date: 9/7/2009 7:27:31 AM
Author: Garry H (Cut Nut)
Fun project
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Just a little simplification advice.
Drop the GIA cert thing - think of the global warming consequences - for every stone you use several will be certified and you are in the darkzone of GIA grading. Half will be graded thru the side and half face up with little or no commonsense agreement.

There is no such thing as a Z graded princess.
I didnt know that - thanks for the heads up
 
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