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ISO Advice on Matching a Chain to a .25 ct diamond on WG bail

klrrrr

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 5, 2019
Messages
19
Hi All!

Hoping to learn from all of your experience on how to match a diamond with a chain. I just bought a fabulous little diamond (.25ct from Birks circa 80s/90s). It's on a heavy bail; as such, I was thinking of resetting it as a floating bezel. However, I am liking the versatility of the bail from a chain swapping perspective.
  • What advice do you have on what to put this guy on? So far, it seems to look better on slightly thicker chains. I put it on a snaky thin YG one and the bail was so prominent.
  • Also, please let me know if you have advice on where to buy said chain!
1.jpg 2.jpg
Thanks,
Claire
 

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whitewave

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Feb 29, 2012
Messages
8,243
Personally, I think that chain is too thick. Do you know what mm it is?

I just bought a 1.5mm 14k white gold cable chain from eBay seller allthebestforless I think is the name. Blue Nile and B2C jewels also sell chains. I tend to want a lobster claw hook.
 

klrrrr

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 5, 2019
Messages
19
I think it's above 2 but I'm not 100% sure. Not a fan of the chain either. I think if I went rolo/belcher I'd go for a thicker but smaller ring. Thanks for the suggestion.
 

stracci2000

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jun 26, 2007
Messages
3,190
The chain definitely overpowers the diamond.
I think a 1-1.5 mm box chain would look good. Box chains are strong and have a sleek look.

 
Last edited:

whitewave

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Feb 29, 2012
Messages
8,243
My opinion only, I probably wouldn’t reset it. I think if you did, you are starting to get above what it’s worth? But you do what you want— you have to love it.

It’s very pretty and dainty.
 

klrrrr

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 5, 2019
Messages
19
My opinion only, I probably wouldn’t reset it. I think if you did, you are starting to get above what it’s worth? But you do what you want— you have to love it.

It’s very pretty and dainty.
Thanks! I got a good deal on it (paid $325 CAD) but I'd imagine it would cost around the same to re-set it.
 

Snowdrop13

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 27, 2011
Messages
1,629
Sarraf.com are my go-to for chains, good selection and pricing and fast delivery.

I second the box chain- my first diamond pendant was on one and it gave a bit of extra sparkle to the necklace.
 

lyra

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 13, 2007
Messages
4,457
I think it looks perfect. Can you do a close up for detail of the chain? My old eyes can't tell what it is.
 

moneymeister

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Sep 20, 2009
Messages
1,282
Hi Klrrr,

The last photo you posted is absolutely balanced between diamond and chain.

I wanted to give you feedback on my bezel set floating diamond reset...ugh, I wish I could have a do-over. I had a lovely little 4.5mm diamond reset into a dainty custom bezel from a heavier yellow gold bezel setting. Attached is a picture, and not sure if it is the look you are wishing for, but I can tell you it is super light and floaty and "walks" up my neck and won't stay centered at all.

I have two photos for you. The lovely centered diamond I just put on, and after 2 minutes of wearing it...turning my head, drinking coffee and I have a diamond sitting at 7 o'clock. Completely love the look and HATE the functionality. If I had not spent a bundle already, I would reset it just like yours! It's classic and stays put.

Other people may have a different floating setting that is not so annoying, but this one bugs me to bits.

walking bezel.jpg
 

jbake

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Mar 30, 2018
Messages
325
Hi Klrrr,

The last photo you posted is absolutely balanced between diamond and chain.

I wanted to give you feedback on my bezel set floating diamond reset...ugh, I wish I could have a do-over. I had a lovely little 4.5mm diamond reset into a dainty custom bezel from a heavier yellow gold bezel setting. Attached is a picture, and not sure if it is the look you are wishing for, but I can tell you it is super light and floaty and "walks" up my neck and won't stay centered at all.

I have two photos for you. The lovely centered diamond I just put on, and after 2 minutes of wearing it...turning my head, drinking coffee and I have a diamond sitting at 7 o'clock. Completely love the look and HATE the functionality. If I had not spent a bundle already, I would reset it just like yours! It's classic and stays put.

Other people may have a different floating setting that is not so annoying, but this one bugs me to bits.

walking bezel.jpg
I feel the same way about mine. I reset an old pair of studs into necklaces, one stationary like yours, the other as a slide. The slide is more enjoyable to wear.

As far as chains, I typically like thin cable or box chains. I also have a diamond cut Singapore chain that I think looks really pretty even alone.
Mine are usually from Quality Gold through my local jeweler.


970C0CA1-EAA9-447B-860C-147462915D76.jpeg

03106F16-49FB-4FDB-B7B7-55FCA41AD606.jpeg
 

moneymeister

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Sep 20, 2009
Messages
1,282
I feel the same way about mine. I reset an old pair of studs into necklaces, one stationary like yours, the other as a slide. The slide is more enjoyable to wear.

As far as chains, I typically like thin cable or box chains. I also have a diamond cut Singapore chain that I think looks really pretty even alone.
Mine are usually from Quality Gold through my local jeweler.


970C0CA1-EAA9-447B-860C-147462915D76.jpeg

03106F16-49FB-4FDB-B7B7-55FCA41AD606.jpeg
jbake, I love the unattached bezel. Does it flip on you?
 

jbake

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Mar 30, 2018
Messages
325
jbake, I love the unattached bezel. Does it flip on you?
My chain is 18” with ring at 16” as well. When I first got it, it felt like it tipped forward a lot when I wore it at 16”. 18” is my favorite length and I haven’t noticed it flipped hardly ever. (Although I do think I could have contributed to it tipping by messing with it and craning my head forward to look at it :lol-2:)
 

moneymeister

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Sep 20, 2009
Messages
1,282
My chain is 18” with ring at 16” as well. When I first got it, it felt like it tipped forward a lot when I wore it at 16”. 18” is my favorite length and I haven’t noticed it flipped hardly ever. (Although I do think I could have contributed to it tipping by messing with it and craning my head forward to look at it :lol-2:)
Heh, I'm also so guilty of that!
 

klrrrr

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 5, 2019
Messages
19
Hi Klrrr,

The last photo you posted is absolutely balanced between diamond and chain.

I wanted to give you feedback on my bezel set floating diamond reset...ugh, I wish I could have a do-over. I had a lovely little 4.5mm diamond reset into a dainty custom bezel from a heavier yellow gold bezel setting. Attached is a picture, and not sure if it is the look you are wishing for, but I can tell you it is super light and floaty and "walks" up my neck and won't stay centered at all.

I have two photos for you. The lovely centered diamond I just put on, and after 2 minutes of wearing it...turning my head, drinking coffee and I have a diamond sitting at 7 o'clock. Completely love the look and HATE the functionality. If I had not spent a bundle already, I would reset it just like yours! It's classic and stays put.

Other people may have a different floating setting that is not so annoying, but this one bugs me to bits.

walking bezel.jpg
Moneymeister - this makes me feel so much better about leaving it as-is! Necklace creep is a serious issue. Now if only we could stop clasps from shimmying forward on sliders...
 

moneymeister

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Sep 20, 2009
Messages
1,282
Moneymeister - this makes me feel so much better about leaving it as-is! Necklace creep is a serious issue. Now if only we could stop clasps from shimmying forward on sliders...
Glad it helped. When I saw you wanted this, I was like..."Oh no! I must warn her!". HA. Yeah, that neck clasp creep is also no fun!
 

PreRaphaelite

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Feb 2, 2015
Messages
1,485
Instead of resetting it, why not get your local jeweller to reduce the side of the rabbit ears? The chain you have it on now is a nice proportion. The rabbit ears could be made smaller and it could still slide.

It’s very pretty and looks lovely on your neckline!
 

klrrrr

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 5, 2019
Messages
19
Hi All - the saga continues! I got fed up with the bunny ears and spontaneously had a jeweler cut them off. I then had him string a new YG chain through the back of the existing WG bail. In doing so, he warned me that it may never sit flat on my chest. I threw caution to the wind (inspired by @starryeyed's pendant reset tbt) which is obviously a much heavier stone than my own, and told him to proceed.

He was right and it rarely sits flat. Is my best bet to have a jeweler add tiny jump rings to the existing bail (aka making it fixed) in hopes of balancing the weight? Or, am I likely to continue to experience the saggy look since the bail was not meant to be fixed?
 

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klrrrr

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 5, 2019
Messages
19
More photos:
1) the threading of the setting
2) how it looks when it sits perfectly - I love the floaty look! Diamond is the center of attention. If only this is how it always faced up...
 

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moneymeister

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Sep 20, 2009
Messages
1,282
I really don't know what may fix the situation. I suppose you could try that. Or, have him set it in the bezel you want, but make sure it is heavy to weight the stone in the middle.

This thread did inspire me to get my diamond in a new bezel.
 

stracci2000

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jun 26, 2007
Messages
3,190
The chain is not meant to be strung through the basket like that. Basic physics.The jeweler was right. Clearly, it will never hang right.
So now you have to start from scratch. Perhaps a floating bezel would be best at this point.

1571415920659.png
 

klrrrr

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 5, 2019
Messages
19
@moneymeister would love to see photos of your bezel! the ultimate solution would probably be to get my diamond put in a sliding bezel (based on all the past feedback), but I am trying to MacGiver this thing to minimize spend.
 

moneymeister

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Sep 20, 2009
Messages
1,282
@moneymeister would love to see photos of your bezel! the ultimate solution would probably be to get my diamond put in a sliding bezel (based on all the past feedback), but I am trying to MacGiver this thing to minimize spend.
Sure thing, it should be back in a few days! I'll post when it returns. They are not charging much at all. It's a new jeweler though. I think this one is less expensive.
 
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