shape
carat
color
clarity

Is .8 noticeable different from .74: worth extra money?

ChrisES

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Feb 9, 2012
Messages
220
kenny|1334940421|3176258 said:
There are price per carat jumps at major milestones like 0.50 0.75 1.00.

This is why 0.49 ct 0.74 ct and 0.99 ct are smart weights to look for.

Is it .70 or .75 or does it vary?
 

Laila619

Super_Ideal_Rock
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kat08|1334938265|3176222 said:
Here are the specs for another diamond I'm considering (I just have to decide if it's worth the extra expense; that's a harder pill to swallow). My husband thinks we should go for 1 carat, but I know that doesn't truly make sense for us. This one's a little under a carat:

Shape: Round
Carat Weight: 0.91
Cut: Super Ideal
Color: J
Clarity: SI1
Report: GIA (preview upon request)
Measurements: 6.19 x 6.17 x 3.87 mm
Polish: Excellent
Symmetry: Excellent
Depth: 62.6%
Table: 56.0%
Girdle: Medium
Culet: None
Fluorescence: None

When evaluating diamonds for CUT, we need more than just the table and depth. How well a diamond is cut also depends on the crown and pavilion angles. If you have a steeper crown, you want a shallower pavilion, and vice versa. If you have both a steep crown and a steep pavilion, that is what's called a "steep deep" stone and that is when you get the dreaded light leakage.
 

kenny

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ChrisES|1334940583|3176260 said:
kenny|1334940421|3176258 said:
There are price per carat jumps at major milestones like 0.50 0.75 1.00.

This is why 0.49 ct 0.74 ct and 0.99 ct are smart weights to look for.

Is it .70 or .75 or does it vary?

We all know about the 1.0 milestone.
I don't know exactly where all of the lines are drawn.
Hopefully a vendor will chime in.

Though they may feel that's proprietary info and revealing it may harm their business.

Here's an idea.
Go on a website with a huge inventory like Bluenile.
search for 0.69s and 0.70s.
If there are MANY more 0.70s than 0.69s that means 0.70 must be a price per carat milestone.

Try this at many weights and I'll bet you'll discover the weight milestones that diamond cutters shoot for.
 

ChrisES

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kat08|1334940103|3176254 said:
Christina...|1334939935|3176252 said:
you need four angles to use the HCA table depth crown and pavillion, if you have all four angles you can enter the data into the HCA. You are looking for stones that score under 2. Keep in mind this is an elimination tool, not a selection tool, but since you are shopping online and can't physically see the diamond, it will be your new best friend, in that it will help you eliminate known poor performers. The .74 isn't going to perform well. You need to get the additional angles either from the report or from the vendor for the .91

Thanks, Christina. I'm going to get the reports for the other diamonds. What's so frustrating is that the GIA report says the .74 has an "Excellent" cut grade, and yet it doesn't perform well according to the HCA tool... is the GIA cut category/scale not very meaningful?

Oh boy, here we go. :)

I suggest reading the PS diamond wiki under "Knowledge," starting with this article: https://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/diamond-cut

Basically, anyone who grades diamonds has to choose a system, and there are several systems out there. GIA has one, AGS has another, Garry Holloway has developed a third (HCA). Garry's happens to be one that the vast majority of the "cut nuts" here at PS agree with, so use of the HCA is recommended. Among the options, GIA's is particularly weak not because it is "wrong" but because it is *broad.* There are several flavors of GIA "excellent" out there; some of them are agreeable to the HCA and some are not.

If you stick to GIA "excellent" you will NOT get a *bad* stone: you will get a stone better than the vast majority. But you might not get the *best* stone. If you are willing to spend the time and effort to find the best stone (and PSers will help you!) you will not be sorry.

And here my first criticism of Brilliant earth comes in: the lack of images of their stones. HCA is a rejection tool based on four average measurements. There can be many things wrong with a diamond that HCA cannot detect. The HCA is a wonderful tool to narrow your search down, but you should get at the very least an idealscope image before purchasing a stone online. I don't know if Brilliant Earth will do that for you if you call them, but I would definitely find out.
 

kat08

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You guys are so helpful! If I was doing this by myself, I would have blindly followed the GIA report Excellent cut.

I have the GIA report for the .8 diamond:

Selected: 60.2% depth, 59% table, 33.5° crown angle, 41.2° pavilion angle

It scored a very good with the HCA tool and an excellent spread. What do you all think?

On a side note, I called BE, and the guy told me that his experience has been that the HCA tool doesn't always predict sparkle because it leaves out some other important factors like polish and symmetry. He thought the .74 would give great sparkle. BUT, the .8 diamond scores well for both GIA, BE, and the HCA tool. Do I have a winner?

Now, of course, I also have to find out if the .8 is eye clean... the .74 is definitely eye clean. But I can see just off the GIA report that .8 diamond has more issues (the .74 has just a crystal, the .8 has a crystal, cloud, and feather). The BE guy is checking with their gemology dept. to see if the diamond is completely eye clean.

ETA: I know you all think I'm crazy for sticking with BE, but it's just something I have to do for the recycled gold and Canadian diamond. My close friends don't even have diamonds (one of my best childhood friends who's a doctor and could afford a really nice ring, just got married and started out with a wooden ring and then switched to a plain titanium one when she realized it wasn't going to be durable at all!). I'm a girly girl at heart and want a nice sparkly diamond, but buying from BE makes me feel less guilty about my diamond longings, lol. So I appreciate you all bearing with me and helping me find the best pretty that BE can give me! :bigsmile:
 

mandasand

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Brilliant Earth's prices are way too high. They are marking up trying to sell their "recycled" gold. In all actuality, correct me if I'm wrong, but most rings made of gold is used from metals that were previously melted down...I think it's pretty much all recycled. And, if you want a conflict-free diamond, you can find those pretty much anywhere.That's just my opinion.
 

Christina...

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kat08|1334940103|3176254 said:
Christina...|1334939935|3176252 said:
you need four angles to use the HCA table depth crown and pavillion, if you have all four angles you can enter the data into the HCA. You are looking for stones that score under 2. Keep in mind this is an elimination tool, not a selection tool, but since you are shopping online and can't physically see the diamond, it will be your new best friend, in that it will help you eliminate known poor performers. The .74 isn't going to perform well. You need to get the additional angles either from the report or from the vendor for the .91

Thanks, Christina. I'm going to get the reports for the other diamonds. What's so frustrating is that the GIA report says the .74 has an "Excellent" cut grade, and yet it doesn't perform well according to the HCA tool... is the GIA cut category/scale not very meaningful?

Like Chris explained, the excellent cut grade is meaningful, however, it's my understanding that GIA particularly (and perhaps not exclusively?) grades their cut based on the worst measurement. The flaw is that they don't take into consideration the other angles and how the worst angle may actually benefit from the others making a more beautiful stone. For instance, I'm looking for a bargain right now and I know that I want a stone that is going to have a lot of fire, to get the fire return that I want I need a small table and a high crown, GIA often discounts these stones because they feel that the crown height is too high without taking into consideration that a shallower pavillion angel can offset this. Therefore I began to look for stones with a very good cut grade to find what I was looking for. I wouldn't recommend this to people that are shopping for their first diamond though, because you will find many more good performing excellent cuts then you will good performing very good cuts, and if you don't understand all the angles and how they work together to make a great cut then it can be a very frustrating endeavor. This is the first time that I have felt comfortable enough to spread my wings and attempt it.

So, don't discount excellent cuts because the cut grade does have meaning, and it's important to keep in mind that the HCA is only using four angles to predict light performance and it often times isn't enough. For instance AGS already grades their stones for light performance, sometimes stones that come back as having ideal light performance don't score well on the HCA. This can get very confusing to people, so it's important to remember that it is only an elimination tool, not a selection tool, however it's extremely helpful when narrowing down an online search when you can't use your own eyes. Idealscopes will actually give you more of the information that you really need to determine cut quality so it's always the second image we suggest that you get before finalizing any purchase. There is no need to get ASET images on a RB if you have an IS, but if the IS isn't available that ASET is next best.

We would be more than happy to make some selections for you if you want to give us your budget and tell us exactly what it is that your looking for. :))
 

Christina...

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kat08|1334942007|3176281 said:
You guys are so helpful! If I was doing this by myself, I would have blindly followed the GIA report Excellent cut.

I have the GIA report for the .8 diamond:

Selected: 60.2% depth, 59% table, 33.5° crown angle, 41.2° pavilion angle

It scored a very good with the HCA tool and an excellent spread. What do you all think?

On a side note, I called BE, and the guy told me that his experience has been that the HCA tool doesn't always predict sparkle because it leaves out some other important factors like polish and symmetry. He thought the .74 would give great sparkle. BUT, the .8 diamond scores well for both GIA, BE, and the HCA tool. Do I have a winner?

Now, of course, I also have to find out if the .8 is eye clean... the .74 is definitely eye clean. But I can see just off the GIA report that .8 diamond has more issues (the .74 has just a crystal, the .8 has a crystal, cloud, and feather). The BE guy is checking with their gemology dept. to see if the diamond is completely eye clean.

ETA: I know you all think I'm crazy for sticking with BE, but it's just something I have to do for the recycled gold and Canadian diamond. My close friends don't even have diamonds (one of my best childhood friends who's a doctor and could afford a really nice ring, just got married and started out with a wooden ring and then switched to a plain titanium one when she realized it wasn't going to be durable at all!). I'm a girly girl at heart and want a nice sparkly diamond, but buying from BE makes me feel less guilty about my diamond longings, lol. So I appreciate you all bearing with me and helping me find the best pretty that BE can give me! :bigsmile:


The HCA does not leave out polish and symmetry, it is based on a diamonds with ex-vg in both polish and symmetry and it accounts for a medium sized girdle, it does not however account for minor facet variations, so the SA is confused.

I figured that the .8 would come back as brighter and whiter with less fire, more of a BIC than a TIC, I haven't run the numbers for you yet, but I will and give you an opinion. The stones have a larger spread so some people really prefer a 60/60 to a more traditional TIC.
 

Christina...

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ok, nope on .8, I know your getting frustrated, but let me take a look at BE for you and see what I can find that would be a better choice for you. Did you mention what your budget for the stone is?
 

kat08

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Joined
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Messages
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Christina...|1334943484|3176296 said:
ok, nope on .8, I know your getting frustrated, but let me take a look at BE for you and see what I can find that would be a better choice for you. Did you mention what your budget for the stone is?

That would be great, Christina! My budget is about $2500-$3000 for the diamond, but I could probably go a little over that if the stone quality made it worth it.

Why is the .8 not good?

ETA: I think I could up to $3500 max.
 

Christina...

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Yikes I see your frustration!! :errrr: Is there anyway to view the reports online or do you have to request a report for each stone?
 

webdiva

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ChrisES|1334938481|3176228 said:
Ah, when I was engagement ring shopping I spent a lot of time on Brilliant Earth's website and in the end decided not to purchase from them because:

1. They don't provide as much information and images as I would want, in order to buy online.
2. I think that their settings (if you were planning on buying a complete ring) are overpriced especially given that they're using recycled gold.
3. They definitely charge a premium for "conflict-free" diamonds of supposedly known origins.
4. The only stones they sell that are not overpriced are those allegedly from Botswana, and if you're REALLY into conflict-free as an ideal, the fact is that in Botswana many Bushmen have been evicted from their land to make way for diamond mines, so I don't think that stones from Botswana are as "conflict-free" as those from, for example, Canada.

(I say supposedly known origins and allegedly because the only way we know where stones are from is by trusting Kimberly, which like any international permitting program (CITES, etc.) is only as good as the governments that issue the permits. Obviously a stone that is laser-inscribed at the mine has another layer of credibility.)

In the end, I decided that even though Kimberly isn't foolproof, it's effectively removed the much publicized "blood diamonds" from the market and I wasn't interested in paying a premium for other assurances.

I would suggest that you shop online for a stone from a PS vendor. But, if the recycled *gold* is the number one issue for you, then maybe stick with them. I dunno, you generally spend a lot more on the stone than the setting.

I looked at them, too (they have a lovely octagonal setting) - and decided I didn't want to risk it considering the terrible reviews about setting quality on yelp, etc. They seem to have recently reached out to those lower reviewers and made amends - but in many cases it stretched over a year. I feel they "bought" those updated reviews because it was affecting business. I don't want a business only responding to me because I made it public.

Good Old Gold and many other vendors have access to Canadian diamonds. Post your budget and we can help find alternatives, if you're open to that.

I loked at them too and their revi
 

kat08

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Christina...|1334943963|3176306 said:
Yikes I see your frustration!! :errrr: Is there anyway to view the reports online or do you have to request a report for each stone?

Some of the stones have a link to the GIA report (like the .8 stone), but others you have to request the reports. If you happen to see some contenders, let me know, and I'll request the reports.
 

ChrisES

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Messages
220
mandasand|1334942924|3176288 said:
Brilliant Earth's prices are way too high. They are marking up trying to sell their "recycled" gold. In all actuality, correct me if I'm wrong, but most rings made of gold is used from metals that were previously melted down...I think it's pretty much all recycled. And, if you want a conflict-free diamond, you can find those pretty much anywhere.That's just my opinion.

"Green" is big business!
 

Christina...

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kat08|1334943904|3176305 said:
Christina...|1334943484|3176296 said:
ok, nope on .8, I know your getting frustrated, but let me take a look at BE for you and see what I can find that would be a better choice for you. Did you mention what your budget for the stone is?

That would be great, Christina! My budget is about $2500-$3000 for the diamond, but I could probably go a little over that if the stone quality made it worth it.

Why is the .8 not good?

ETA: I think I could up to $3500 max.

It's showing that there is going to be increased light leakage. It may be that it's a very beautiful stone and that you will love it,or you may hate it because it appears dark in some lighting environments. The problem that we have buying online is that it order to make that determination you have to purchase the stone and then return it if your unhappy. Without tools like the HCA and Idealscope images, you may be likely to order and return many stones before you find one that you love and want to wear for a very very long time. :)) Most PSers tend to err on the side of caution to avoid excessive shipping and returning of stones which can get expensive. :-o Therefore we use the tools available to find the best candidate. The stones that we recommend are the safest choices, now that doesn't mean that this .8 isn't incredibly beautiful, because sometimes beautiful stones get pushed to the side because they don't score well on the HCA but are gorgeous in person....that's the drawback of shopping online and not being willing to take a risk and ship and return a few losers before you find a winner. This .8 may be exactly what your looking for and I bet much more beautiful than most stones being sold in Mall stores all over the country, but you need to be able to make that decision and feel good about it. ;-)
 

kat08

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webdiva|1334944002|3176307 said:
ChrisES|1334938481|3176228 said:
Ah, when I was engagement ring shopping I spent a lot of time on Brilliant Earth's website and in the end decided not to purchase from them because:

1. They don't provide as much information and images as I would want, in order to buy online.
2. I think that their settings (if you were planning on buying a complete ring) are overpriced especially given that they're using recycled gold.
3. They definitely charge a premium for "conflict-free" diamonds of supposedly known origins.
4. The only stones they sell that are not overpriced are those allegedly from Botswana, and if you're REALLY into conflict-free as an ideal, the fact is that in Botswana many Bushmen have been evicted from their land to make way for diamond mines, so I don't think that stones from Botswana are as "conflict-free" as those from, for example, Canada.

(I say supposedly known origins and allegedly because the only way we know where stones are from is by trusting Kimberly, which like any international permitting program (CITES, etc.) is only as good as the governments that issue the permits. Obviously a stone that is laser-inscribed at the mine has another layer of credibility.)

In the end, I decided that even though Kimberly isn't foolproof, it's effectively removed the much publicized "blood diamonds" from the market and I wasn't interested in paying a premium for other assurances.

I would suggest that you shop online for a stone from a PS vendor. But, if the recycled *gold* is the number one issue for you, then maybe stick with them. I dunno, you generally spend a lot more on the stone than the setting.

I looked at them, too (they have a lovely octagonal setting) - and decided I didn't want to risk it considering the terrible reviews about setting quality on yelp, etc. They seem to have recently reached out to those lower reviewers and made amends - but in many cases it stretched over a year. I feel they "bought" those updated reviews because it was affecting business. I don't want a business only responding to me because I made it public.

Good Old Gold and many other vendors have access to Canadian diamonds. Post your budget and we can help find alternatives, if you're open to that.

I loked at them too and their revi

If I did go somewhere like Good Old Gold (and got a Canadian diamond), what would I do about my setting? Would I need to get a custom setting, or do you think I'm likely to be able to find the same setting elsewhere and use my diamond in it? I fell in love with the look of the BE setting, too. I guess going elsewhere opens a whole new can of worms for how I'd make everything happen... I have a lot to think about (mainly how important is the recycled gold to me and supporting a store that offers that, and how much would be involved in doing a custom setting elsewhere). I know things always seem more daunting when you don't know all the steps involved. Maybe doing custom work isn't a big deal?

ETA: Christina, I just saw your response about the .8 diamond. So you think it's important to get an excellent score on the HCA tool? The .8 diamond scored "very good," which was better than the .74 (which only scored a "good"), but it sounds like a "very good" score is still not likely to have a quality performance?

one more ETA: But just so I understand, the .8 is likely to be a better performer than the .74, but neither diamond is where I'd ideally like to be in terms of performance?
 

webdiva

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I see the setting is $1775 - you should be able to get something in a pave halo from Gabriel and Co at Good old Gold

.79 ct H - $2986 - http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamond/9323/

I have to ask the RB experts on this on:
http://goodoldgold.com/diamond/8511/
Too much blue in the ASET? Cuz it has a caaarraazzzzy spread for that price.

.88 J SI2 - different optics on a Star129 - $3200 (added to cart)
http://goodoldgold.com/diamond/8829/

.8 August vintage I color - antique style diamond - $3255
http://goodoldgold.com/diamond/9272/


Whoa - potentially awesome find - how do y'all feel about an AGS000 in a K color in gold? $3450
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/K-SI1-Ideal-Cut-Round-Diamond-1479341.asp
ASET is stunning. Looks like it has some white feathers yet eye clean.
6.21*6.23*3.79
 

webdiva

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Hold on! Finding you a setting! :)
 

webdiva

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Here are all the Halos between $1k and $2k - GOG takes about 20% off MSRP. All rings are available in yellow gold and can be customized - e.g. milgrain removed for a smooth finish like you liked on the other one:
http://www.gabrielny.com/engaged/styles/engaged?style=Halo&price=1000-2000

E.g.
http://www.gabrielny.com/engaged/style/ER7524W44JJ
Ask for no milgrain.

Edit - Here's a JA setting : http://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/pave/ring/item_412-8985.asp
I find their halos to be priced high - you can ship the diamond to GOG for setting. JA is in NY and GOG is in NJ, pretty close.
 

Christina...

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I admire your choice to buy only conflict free diamonds and use recycled materials, but I thought that I might add that all of PS vendors strictly adhere to the Kimberly process. I'm not sure about using recycled metal, though I suspect that this is a common process, however you might consider sourcing a diamond with another PS vendor and purchasing the setting through brilliant earth? I'll look and see if any PS vendors are selling Canadian diamonds for you.

Thanks for filling me in about the reports I'll go back and take a look, I did see one that I like the diameter of, but thats the only thing I could base the potential cut on. GIve me a minute and I'll post a few.

Just saw your other post. Yes, when using the HCA you want the stone to score under 2, anything over 2 should be rejected, if you can't visually inspect the stone yourself.
 

kat08

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Messages
100
webdiva|1334945001|3176325 said:
I see the setting is $1775 - you should be able to get something in a pave halo from Gabriel and Co at Good old Gold

.79 ct H - $2986 - http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamond/9323/

I have to ask the RB experts on this on:
http://goodoldgold.com/diamond/8511/
Too much blue in the ASET? Cuz it has a caaarraazzzzy spread for that price.

.88 J SI2 - different optics on a Star129 - $3200 (added to cart)
http://goodoldgold.com/diamond/8829/

.8 August vintage I color - antique style diamond - $3255
http://goodoldgold.com/diamond/9272/


Whoa - potentially awesome find - how do y'all feel about an AGS000 in a K color in gold? $3450
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/K-SI1-Ideal-Cut-Round-Diamond-1479341.asp
ASET is stunning. Looks like it has some white feathers yet eye clean.
6.21*6.23*3.79

Thanks for looking up those diamonds! Are they Canadian? Are you able to search by origin, too?
 

webdiva

Brilliant_Rock
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kat08|1334945625|3176342 said:
Thanks for looking up those diamonds! Are they Canadian? Are you able to search by origin, too?

Nope - but all are Kimberley process. I'm canadian, so don't get me into displaced wildlife and native population, and environmental impact... :naughty:
 

Christina...

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kat08

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Christina...|1334945297|3176332 said:
I admire your choice to buy only conflict free diamonds and use recycled materials, but I thought that I might add that all of PS vendors strictly adhere to the Kimberly process. I'm not sure about using recycled metal, though I suspect that this is a common process, however you might consider sourcing a diamond with another PS vendor and purchasing the setting through brilliant earth? I'll look and see if any PS vendors are selling Canadian diamonds for you.

Thanks for filling me in about the reports I'll go back and take a look, I did see one that I like the diameter of, but thats the only thing I could base the potential cut on. GIve me a minute and I'll post a few.

Just saw your other post. Yes, when using the HCA you want the stone to score under 2, anything over 2 should be rejected, if you can't visually inspect the stone yourself.

It would be FABULOUS if Brilliant Earth would sell their settings without diamonds. But they won't. I already asked that a while back! :(sad
 

kat08

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Christina...|1334945297|3176332 said:
I admire your choice to buy only conflict free diamonds and use recycled materials, but I thought that I might add that all of PS vendors strictly adhere to the Kimberly process. I'm not sure about using recycled metal, though I suspect that this is a common process, however you might consider sourcing a diamond with another PS vendor and purchasing the setting through brilliant earth? I'll look and see if any PS vendors are selling Canadian diamonds for you.

Thanks for filling me in about the reports I'll go back and take a look, I did see one that I like the diameter of, but thats the only thing I could base the potential cut on. GIve me a minute and I'll post a few.

Just saw your other post. Yes, when using the HCA you want the stone to score under 2, anything over 2 should be rejected, if you can't visually inspect the stone yourself.

Cristina--If you do know of a PS vendor that sells Canadian diamonds, I'd be interested in looking at those.
 

mandasand

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And, I just found out, you can have Gabriel customize their settings. You'll just have to tell GOG what modifications you want and they will work with Gabriel on the changes. This is super exciting because they have a lot of setting options and they are just beautiful in person.
 

Christina...

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Blue NIle is selling Canadian diamonds and has a seperate search for them. sorry if this has already been mentioned, I didn't go back and read the entire thread. Anyway, you will be able to get a better price from BlueNile and more information from them. They don't offer as much as many other vendors but you can at least see all the reports and narrow down your selection that way.
 

webdiva

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kat08|1334946066|3176356 said:
Christina...|1334945297|3176332 said:
I admire your choice to buy only conflict free diamonds and use recycled materials, but I thought that I might add that all of PS vendors strictly adhere to the Kimberly process. I'm not sure about using recycled metal, though I suspect that this is a common process, however you might consider sourcing a diamond with another PS vendor and purchasing the setting through brilliant earth? I'll look and see if any PS vendors are selling Canadian diamonds for you.

Thanks for filling me in about the reports I'll go back and take a look, I did see one that I like the diameter of, but thats the only thing I could base the potential cut on. GIve me a minute and I'll post a few.

Just saw your other post. Yes, when using the HCA you want the stone to score under 2, anything over 2 should be rejected, if you can't visually inspect the stone yourself.

Cristina--If you do know of a PS vendor that sells Canadian diamonds, I'd be interested in looking at those.

JA, GOG, IDjewelry and other vendors have access to canadian diamonds. Just contact them personally to start the search. Most vendors have access to the same diamonds, so you can search on Blue Nile and then have an vendor that provides ASETs, etc examine your top picks.
 

Christina...

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http://www.bluenile.com/canadian-diamonds?track=head#diamonds_pid=LD02087116

http://www.bluenile.com/canadian-diamonds?track=head#diamonds_pid=LD02381538

http://www.bluenile.com/canadian-diamonds?track=head#diamonds_pid=LD02451500

http://www.bluenile.com/canadian-diamonds?track=head#diamonds_pid=LD02431865

These are all canadian and within your budget and score excellent on the HCA , they are worth a closer look.


EDIT: I thought that all of these stones should be eyeclean, however there wasn't a clarity plot on the report, so if you pursue any of these make sure to ask that they are eyeclean. It's also likely that these same stones are also listed in BE inventory at more inflated price. Have you checked to see if you can purchase at setting without a diamond from BE. If not I'd be happy to help you find someone that will use only recycled materials for your setting.
 
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