Inherited antique 18th century carved emerald bracelet

[Beautiful-disaster]

Hi there,
I’m looking for anyone who may have some expertise in antique Indian jewellery- maybe Mughal.
I recently inherited a bracelet from my grandmother that came with what I thought was a far fetched story about it being a gift from a middle eastern prince.
As it is unlike anything I have seen I decided to do some research.
It has seven carved emeralds set in kundan with surrounding rubies and table cut diamonds. The back is polychrome enamel with floral motifs. It’s 24kt Gold.
I am trying to find out if it’s worth paying for the appraisal in order to sell it basically. But I can’t find anything quite like it.
I do know that the more I search I keep ending up at it being 18th century Indian court jewellery. Being in Australia really limits my accessibility to experts in this particular field it would seem.
Any help you can offer is super appreciated.

 

[AllAboardTheBlingTrain]

I’m not an expert, but I am an enthusiast. That bracelet is gorgeous! The setting style (stones pushed into gold) looks like how traditional indian jewelry is set and the enamel at the back also looks quite nicely done. The little polki diamonds (if they are diamonds and not glass) don’t look like they are of very great quality, to my eye. The only thing that makes me pause a bit is the clasp, but like I said - I’m not an expert, so it’s entirely possible that clasps like this exist/existed. I have mostly only seen stiff bangle-style bracelets and not flat bracelets, and the stiff ones would be made either with a screw closure or to slip on, most of the time which isn’t possible for flat bracelets. If you do want to sell it I think you would need an appraisal but from a person who has experience. Or you might want to consign it through a vintage jeweler or auction house.

I am afraid I don’t have any idea of price, though.

 

[Diamond Girl 21]

I can't really help, but I did want to say that the bracelet is absolutely stunning. Please find a reputable appraiser, so you really know what you have. Good luck!

 

[Beautiful-disaster]

I’m not an expert, but I am an enthusiast. That bracelet is gorgeous! The setting style (stones pushed into gold) looks like how traditional indian jewelry is set and the enamel at the back also looks quite nicely done. The little polki diamonds (if they are diamonds and not glass) don’t look like they are of very great quality, to my eye. The only thing that makes me pause a bit is the clasp, but like I said - I’m not an expert, so it’s entirely possible that clasps like this exist/existed. I have mostly only seen stiff bangle-style bracelets and not flat bracelets, and the stiff ones would be made either with a screw closure or to slip on, most of the time which isn’t possible for flat bracelets. If you do want to sell it I think you would need an appraisal but from a person who has experience. Or you might want to consign it through a vintage jeweler or auction house.

I am afraid I don’t have any idea of price, though.

Thankyou for your reply - I will continue the search for the correct appraiser

 

[AllAboardTheBlingTrain]

Hi there,
I’m looking for anyone who may have some expertise in antique Indian jewellery- maybe Mughal.
I recently inherited a bracelet from my grandmother that came with what I thought was a far fetched story about it being a gift from a middle eastern prince.
As it is unlike anything I have seen I decided to do some research.
It has seven carved emeralds set in kundan with surrounding rubies and table cut diamonds. The back is polychrome enamel with floral motifs. It’s 24kt Gold.
I am trying to find out if it’s worth paying for the appraisal in order to sell it basically. But I can’t find anything quite like it.
I do know that the more I search I keep ending up at it being 18th century Indian court jewellery. Being in Australia really limits my accessibility to experts in this particular field it would seem.
Any help you can offer is super appreciated.

I just noticed something on one of the pictures - is that a hallmark on the clasp? Hallmarking in old indian jewelry is extremely rare - if I’m not wrong it was almost impossible to find before the 80s. It’s only recently (I think in the last few years) become legally required (edit to add: the law will come into effect from 2021, as in non-hallmarked jewelry cannot be sold post Jan 2021). So that might help establish age, if it is really a hallmark.

 

[Beautiful-disaster]

I just noticed something on one of the pictures - is that a hallmark on the clasp? Hallmarking in old indian jewelry is extremely rare - if I’m not wrong it was almost impossible to find before the 80s. It’s only recently (I think in the last few years) become legally required (edit to add: the law will come into effect from 2021, as in non-hallmarked jewelry cannot be sold post Jan 2021). So that might help establish age, if it is really a hallmark.

It’s just the gold mark - it says 22 or 24K I can’t make it out exactly.
I will take some better shots.

 

[partgypsy]

Very cool piece of jewelry. So interesting they even decorated the back where its not normally visible. I have no idea but yes the next step is to find an appraiser who is familiar with this type of jewelry. ETA here is site with similar jewelry called mughal https://bellatory.com/fashion-acces...and paisley are,stone-setting is called jadau.

 

[AllAboardTheBlingTrain]

Very cool piece of jewelry. So interesting they even decorated the back where its not normally visible. I have no idea but yes the next step is to find an appraiser who is familiar with this type of jewelry. ETA here is site with similar jewelry called mughal https://bellatory.com/fashion-accessories/Mughal-Jewelry-Royal-and-antique-jewelry-of-North-India#:~:text=Kundan and polki stones are,diamonds with a matte finish.&text=Birds, flowers, and paisley are,stone-setting is called jadau.

The technique of decorating the back is called ‘meenakari’ and it consists of digging grooves in the metal and filling them with enamel. It’s so that the back of the piece is as beautiful as the front and it’s seen very commonly in jadau jewelry (jadau is a technique of jewelry making, the stones here are usually gemstones, uncut diamonds and/or glass). A lot of the pieces made in this fashion - especially necklaces - are reversible and can therefore be worn stone side down.

 

[Rad_Fan]

@Beautiful-disaster, Don't know if you're stilling looking for more info but I thought of you when I spotted these.

Scroll down and check out "22k Ruby & Enamel Ring" and "Enamel, Diamond & Ruby Necklace".

Countess Collection - Elichai

www.elichai.com

 

[Beautiful-disaster]

@Beautiful-disaster, Don't know if you're stilling looking for more info but I thought of you when I spotted these.

Scroll down and check out "22k Ruby & Enamel Ring" and "Enamel, Diamond & Ruby Necklace".

Countess Collection - Elichai

www.elichai.com

Wow there are some amazing prices in that collection. Thanks so much for sharing. I was just looking at more info today actually - but at the moment the piece is in another state so we are waiting for the boarders to reopen over here for us to be able to drive up and bring it back.
*wish they had the prices on the website you shared but I understand why they don’t.... how nice does The Lady of Niece sound as a title?

 

[Rad_Fan]

Wow there are some amazing prices in that collection. Thanks so much for sharing. I was just looking at more info today actually - but at the moment the piece is in another state so we are waiting for the boarders to reopen over here for us to be able to drive up and bring it back.
*wish they had the prices on the website you shared but I understand why they don’t.... how nice does The Lady of Niece sound as a title?

Maybe you could contact that shop for more details? Good luck and keep us updated.

 

[Polyhex]

This is a very beautiful bracelet which was inspired by Mughal jewelry and designs. The enamel pieces were originally on a cord closure and worn as a choker or armlet. The plain gold pieces were like added when this was prepared to be sold to / worn by a westerner. I think it is more recent than 18th century as pieces like this as still being made to this day -- my guess is late 19th - mid 20th. If you would like to get confirmation on the date and probably the location it was made at, post it to the "Ethnic Jewels Community" Facebook group. You can also probably get valuation from there.

 

[AllAboardTheBlingTrain]

This is a very beautiful bracelet which was inspired by Mughal jewelry and designs. The enamel pieces were originally on a cord closure and worn as a choker or armlet. The plain gold pieces were like added when this was prepared to be sold to / worn by a westerner. I think it is more recent than 18th century as pieces like this as still being made to this day -- my guess is late 19th - mid 20th. If you would like to get confirmation on the date and probably the location it was made at, post it to the "Ethnic Jewels Community" Facebook group. You can also probably get valuation from there.

This is super cool! I never thought about the pieces being strung on cord but it makes so much sense given the look of the clasp vs the rest of the piece. Do you think that the hinges were also likely added later or the pieces were hinged together when made and strung as a collection of hinges on the cord? You seem to know a lot more than I do so I would love to pick your brain about this!

 

[Polyhex]

This is super cool! I never thought about the pieces being strung on cord but it makes so much sense given the look of the clasp vs the rest of the piece. Do you think that the hinges were also likely added later or the pieces were hinged together when made and strung as a collection of hinges on the cord? You seem to know a lot more than I do so I would love to pick your brain about this!

It's super beautiful! I think the main parts were always hinged, both because it is a traditional construction, and because adding the hinges later without destroying the enameling would only have been possible in the last few decades with the advent of cold laser welding. It's the plain gold parts that are not traditional.

The original stringing probably looked like this:


You can see some similar 19th century Mughal-style enameling (meenakari work) here:



This talks about reverse-side enamel and the reasons why (Traditional Jewelry of India):


I think your jewel is from northern India, where the Mughals had the most influence on art.

 

[AllAboardTheBlingTrain]

It's super beautiful! I think the main parts were always hinged, both because it is a traditional construction, and because adding the hinges later without destroying the enameling would only have been possible in the last few decades with the advent of cold laser welding. It's the plain gold parts that are not traditional.

The original stringing probably looked like this:


You can see some similar 19th century Mughal-style enameling (meenakari work) here:



This talks about reverse-side enamel and the reasons why (Traditional Jewelry of India):


I think your jewel is from northern India, where the Mughals had the most influence on art.

Thank you for the detailed info! I’m not the OP btw, just an indian jewelry enthusiast The clasp tripped me up when I first saw the picture but I never thought about how it could’ve been added later. That makes a lot of sense.

 

[Beautiful-disaster]

@Polyhex - Thankyou for your posts. When I researched the enamel I read that it can be approximately dated by the colour or (shade if you will) of the white enamel.
I wish I had saved this information as I’m having trouble remembering the exact details. I also noted the use of blue on the sides of which *should* help with Approx date and location (But isn’t helping me as I turn in circles).
I would be VERY surprised if it’s mid 20th century - as I know they are still making these to this day but you can tell this piece is very old just by comparing them side by side in photos.
It being a choker or arm band would explain not being able to find other bracelets in this style.
At first I thought it might be Persian so it took me a while to get to Indian Court Jewellery of the Moghal era.
The clasp could have been added later (and may well have been) but it is hard to tell with the hinges matching so well.
I will definitely join that FB group Thankyou so much.

I must say - that other then the very impressive Christie’s and Southerby’s examples (way way above mines quality and size) I don’t see this Jewellery being worth what I would have thought it was - and can see why my sister got told to break it apart for the emeralds. Which is SUPER sad because you can’t put a price on history and once it’s gone - it’s gone.
I have learnt so much just in my short time researching this piece..... and found it amazing that it was the Portuguese who brought the emeralds to India and Persia (as my partner is Portuguese and I’m Australian).
Once our boarders between states open again I can hope to get this to someone who can advise me the best thing for it (and me).

Thankyou once again for your informative posts.
It would seem the history of this type of jewellery is a labyrinth of twists and turns that can easily take you on a wrong pathway. My Pinterest is out of control. Lol

 

[Polyhex]

@Beautiful-disaster you are totally right it should not be broken apart!! These jewels represented culture, identity, and also magic -- in the past, jewelry functioned like medicine does today, to protect the body and soul. There are a number of art auction houses which specialize in Indian and Islamic art that you could place this beauty with if you decide to sell it... I don't know about Australia but there are a number in the US and UK that would sell it.

On the age, one thing that is a bit different about Indian jewelry used in a traditional context is that they were worn much more often than western jewelry. So a piece that is vintage can show ancient wear. For example these bracelets from my collection are likely second half of 20th century, but they belonged to a woman who wore them constantly during heavy chores like collecting water from the well.



That said my personal guess on your beautiful piece is earlier than mid-20th century, likely around 100 years old but probably not older than late 19th. That is a guess only! I hope you get a more specific ID on the group I mentioned.

 

[Beautiful-disaster]

I love your bracelets! - and love that you know their history! The story would of have had this piece come into my grandmother possession in the 1940’s and has been worn once or twice in that time. She said it was very old when given to her as a gift from a prince and princess visiting Australia.
(Although I only recently discovered my grandmother ran away to get married at 17 when I was at her funeral! - so I’m quickly discovering the things I was told as a child were most likely a *version* of the truth). - and that my Grandmother lived a very interesting life!