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Inherited antique 18th century carved emerald bracelet

Beautiful-disaster

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jul 14, 2020
Messages
85
Hi there,
I’m looking for anyone who may have some expertise in antique Indian jewellery- maybe Mughal.
I recently inherited a bracelet from my grandmother that came with what I thought was a far fetched story about it being a gift from a middle eastern prince.
As it is unlike anything I have seen I decided to do some research.
It has seven carved emeralds set in kundan with surrounding rubies and table cut diamonds. The back is polychrome enamel with floral motifs. It’s 24kt Gold.
I am trying to find out if it’s worth paying for the appraisal in order to sell it basically. But I can’t find anything quite like it.
I do know that the more I search I keep ending up at it being 18th century Indian court jewellery. Being in Australia really limits my accessibility to experts in this particular field it would seem.
Any help you can offer is super appreciated.
2B111BF5-5AAD-4844-AAAC-E01B3FFEC603.jpeg 1922C654-82E0-4A24-A255-2AECE5387558.jpeg 3D1819A8-94FE-4E78-A89F-08190E27205E.jpeg 9A2D7ED5-1668-499B-8979-BF3942C619B3.jpeg E81D2DA4-0EC5-49B8-AF4F-BB5202D204B6.jpeg
 
Joined
Apr 22, 2020
Messages
360
I’m not an expert, but I am an enthusiast. That bracelet is gorgeous! The setting style (stones pushed into gold) looks like how traditional indian jewelry is set and the enamel at the back also looks quite nicely done. The little polki diamonds (if they are diamonds and not glass) don’t look like they are of very great quality, to my eye. The only thing that makes me pause a bit is the clasp, but like I said - I’m not an expert, so it’s entirely possible that clasps like this exist/existed. I have mostly only seen stiff bangle-style bracelets and not flat bracelets, and the stiff ones would be made either with a screw closure or to slip on, most of the time which isn’t possible for flat bracelets. If you do want to sell it I think you would need an appraisal but from a person who has experience. Or you might want to consign it through a vintage jeweler or auction house.

I am afraid I don’t have any idea of price, though.
 

Beautiful-disaster

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jul 14, 2020
Messages
85
I’m not an expert, but I am an enthusiast. That bracelet is gorgeous! The setting style (stones pushed into gold) looks like how traditional indian jewelry is set and the enamel at the back also looks quite nicely done. The little polki diamonds (if they are diamonds and not glass) don’t look like they are of very great quality, to my eye. The only thing that makes me pause a bit is the clasp, but like I said - I’m not an expert, so it’s entirely possible that clasps like this exist/existed. I have mostly only seen stiff bangle-style bracelets and not flat bracelets, and the stiff ones would be made either with a screw closure or to slip on, most of the time which isn’t possible for flat bracelets. If you do want to sell it I think you would need an appraisal but from a person who has experience. Or you might want to consign it through a vintage jeweler or auction house.

I am afraid I don’t have any idea of price, though.
Thankyou for your reply - I will continue the search for the correct appraiser
 
Joined
Apr 22, 2020
Messages
360
Hi there,
I’m looking for anyone who may have some expertise in antique Indian jewellery- maybe Mughal.
I recently inherited a bracelet from my grandmother that came with what I thought was a far fetched story about it being a gift from a middle eastern prince.
As it is unlike anything I have seen I decided to do some research.
It has seven carved emeralds set in kundan with surrounding rubies and table cut diamonds. The back is polychrome enamel with floral motifs. It’s 24kt Gold.
I am trying to find out if it’s worth paying for the appraisal in order to sell it basically. But I can’t find anything quite like it.
I do know that the more I search I keep ending up at it being 18th century Indian court jewellery. Being in Australia really limits my accessibility to experts in this particular field it would seem.
Any help you can offer is super appreciated.
2B111BF5-5AAD-4844-AAAC-E01B3FFEC603.jpeg 1922C654-82E0-4A24-A255-2AECE5387558.jpeg 3D1819A8-94FE-4E78-A89F-08190E27205E.jpeg 9A2D7ED5-1668-499B-8979-BF3942C619B3.jpeg E81D2DA4-0EC5-49B8-AF4F-BB5202D204B6.jpeg
I just noticed something on one of the pictures - is that a hallmark on the clasp? Hallmarking in old indian jewelry is extremely rare - if I’m not wrong it was almost impossible to find before the 80s. It’s only recently (I think in the last few years) become legally required (edit to add: the law will come into effect from 2021, as in non-hallmarked jewelry cannot be sold post Jan 2021). So that might help establish age, if it is really a hallmark.
 

Beautiful-disaster

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jul 14, 2020
Messages
85
I just noticed something on one of the pictures - is that a hallmark on the clasp? Hallmarking in old indian jewelry is extremely rare - if I’m not wrong it was almost impossible to find before the 80s. It’s only recently (I think in the last few years) become legally required (edit to add: the law will come into effect from 2021, as in non-hallmarked jewelry cannot be sold post Jan 2021). So that might help establish age, if it is really a hallmark.
It’s just the gold mark - it says 22 or 24K I can’t make it out exactly.
I will take some better shots.
 
Joined
Apr 22, 2020
Messages
360
Very cool piece of jewelry. So interesting they even decorated the back where its not normally visible. I have no idea but yes the next step is to find an appraiser who is familiar with this type of jewelry. ETA here is site with similar jewelry called mughal https://bellatory.com/fashion-accessories/Mughal-Jewelry-Royal-and-antique-jewelry-of-North-India#:~:text=Kundan and polki stones are,diamonds with a matte finish.&text=Birds, flowers, and paisley are,stone-setting is called jadau.
The technique of decorating the back is called ‘meenakari’ and it consists of digging grooves in the metal and filling them with enamel. It’s so that the back of the piece is as beautiful as the front and it’s seen very commonly in jadau jewelry (jadau is a technique of jewelry making, the stones here are usually gemstones, uncut diamonds and/or glass). A lot of the pieces made in this fashion - especially necklaces - are reversible and can therefore be worn stone side down.
 
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