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How would you set this asscher?

Tension or Bezel?

  • bezel

    Votes: 19 59.4%
  • tension

    Votes: 13 40.6%

  • Total voters
    32

Mooshi

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 23, 2014
Messages
16
I've got this K color asscher that is nice and warm with plans to set it in yellow gold, which will hopefully compliment the tone perfect. I have two settings in mind (linked below) which would you choose? I LOVE the side sparkle from this stone, and I'm really into unique jewelry so I'm loving the tension setting, but the bezel would give me even more yummy yellow gold to look at (as well as make the stone look even bigger?).

bezel setting

tension setting

The asscher is 7.3 x 7.3 if that matters at all, and it won't be stacked with any other rings. I work on a computer so safety of it isn't an issue. Thanks everyone! =)2

IMG_4983.jpeg IMG_4982.jpeg IMG_4981.jpeg
 

whitewave

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Feb 29, 2012
Messages
9,122
I personally don’t want to take any bit of performance away [email protected]; asscher, so I would choose the tension setting.

It’s really a personal preference (and I like the look of a bezel)

I also like the tension setting because it shows the depth and chonkyness of the stone
 

dk168

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Messages
5,161
Bezel with a wide band, like this inspiration ring pic that I have:

Screenshot_20200208-191825_Chrome.jpg

My ring finger is 8.5 US and the middle one about 10.5 US, both fleshy and chubby rather than slender. Hence I need a wide band in order to avoid the a joint of meat tied up with strings look, if you know what I mean.

Personal preferences and all that.

DK :))
 

monipod

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 25, 2019
Messages
208
I don't know enough about tension settings in terms of durability but I love bezels and how easy they are to wear so I voted that way.
 

Jimmianne

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 9, 2013
Messages
5,708
Bezel with a wide band, like this inspiration ring pic that I have:

Screenshot_20200208-191825_Chrome.jpg

My ring finger is 8.5 US and the middle one about 10.5 US, both fleshy and chubby rather than slender. Hence I need a wide band in order to avoid the a joint of meat tied up with strings look, if you know what I mean.

Personal preferences and all that.

DK :))
I would add...just make sure the bench you use knows how to set an asscher. I’ve had two less than acceptable settings made..one from a PS vendor. Also, if the stone is not perfectly square it can cause problems.
This is how my bezelled stone turned out.

What I expected:

BEE2DBB0-F206-4245-97E2-BCDAA08B9C5F.jpeg

What I got:
601524
 

Alex T

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Oct 24, 2012
Messages
4,604
I would add...just make sure the bench you use knows how to set an asscher. I’ve had two less than acceptable settings made..one from a PS vendor. Also, if the stone is not perfectly square it can cause problems.
This is how my bezelled stone turned out.

What I expected:

BEE2DBB0-F206-4245-97E2-BCDAA08B9C5F.jpeg

What I got:
C5FAAAC2-645A-4CD0-80BC-22B580FBCC9C.jpeg
:-o
 

lissyflo

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
793
^^^ times 1,000. That’s enough to give PSers nightmares. What did they do to your poor stone and was that presented to you as acceptable?

The bezel would get my vote, Mooshi. I love what tension settings do for a stone but prefer a bezel when I think about a full piece rather than a stone. As above posters have said though, that’s just my personal preference.
 

missy

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jun 8, 2008
Messages
29,935
Tough decision. If this beautiful stone were mine I might go for a tension setting because it would allow the maximum beauty to come through and it is a unique way to set a stone. Minimalist in design which really appeals to my minimalist aesthetic (despite how my ER is set because that is only temporary) and very clean and beautiful a look IMO.

No right or wrong answer. What setting appeals to *you* the most? Your gut reaction is...
 

Matthews1127

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 7, 2017
Messages
4,437
You stated above that you appreciate the side sparkle of this asscher.
Bezeling this stone will not necessarily STEAL that from you, but it will change it. Bezels block light from entering step cuts, and change the way they behave.
Unless your jeweler is not only an expert at creating bezels/setting Asschers in bezels, and can open up the setting to allow light to enter under the stone, and at the sides of the stone, I’d pass, and go with the tension setting.
I voted for the tension setting because it will allow maximum light in, hence, your stone will display maximum light return, without compromising its personality.
Less is more with step cuts. That stone is gorgeous. Let it SHINE!
 

Mooshi

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 23, 2014
Messages
16
With what Jimmianne and Matthews said in mind.. I'm very nervous going the bezel route now. The goldsmith offered to custom make a bezel setting, since the one above is for 7mm stones and mine is 7.3mm, but he also said he thinks he could get it to fit. Since I had no idea a bezel setting could go so wrong.. tension may win for that very reason.

But then again, I did come across this ring and it looks ohhhh so right.. I am a fan of the chonky in rings!
Screen Shot 2020-02-15 at 2.16.09 PM.png
 

gregchang35

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
Messages
2,637
If the chunky setting looks much better and sings to you more than the other 2, then it is the setting for you. Cos you are wearing seeing the ring/ stone the most. So, when you see thst setting- you will fall in love with it every time.
 

Dancing Fire

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 3, 2004
Messages
30,809
With what Jimmianne and Matthews said in mind.. I'm very nervous going the bezel route now. The goldsmith offered to custom make a bezel setting, since the one above is for 7mm stones and mine is 7.3mm, but he also said he thinks he could get it to fit. Since I had no idea a bezel setting could go so wrong.. tension may win for that very reason.
Don't let him do a retrofit you'll be sorry if you did!. If you decided to go with a bezel setting be sure that he is making a new setting to fit your 7.3mm stone.
 

lissyflo

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
793
I was wondering last night - would a tension setting have more of a hampering impact on performance in an asscher than in a round stone?

In a round, the contact points between a stone and a tension setting will be minimal because of the circular shape. In an asscher, a tension setting would presumably contact almost half the girdle of the stone because it would contact the full length of 2 opposite straight sides. So unless your stone is very octagonal with really clipped corners then the tension setting may act more like a floating semi-bezel in terms of its effect on performance?

I’m not sure if this is right, I was just wondering last night thought I’d mention it in case you were still pondering - I wasn’t sure if your choice between the 2 styles is for performance or aesthetics. Your link to the settings just goes to a generic page for me, maybe as I’m not in the US, so I can’t see the exact settings you’re looking and am just thinking in general terms.
 
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lissyflo

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
793
I found some pics that show what I was trying to say in the post above. Both are/were DancingFire’s (I hope that’s ok, DF):

4FA4ECA6-55D7-4B7F-A1A2-243DA53E06BC.jpeg 1BC1B3A7-DE52-4E7A-8651-7BB07297240E.jpeg

Both are true tension set so are incredibly open but, from top view anyway, the round looks even more open because of the expanse of free girdle. Was that true in real life too, DF?

As I say, Mooshi, I’m not sure if that would have any impact on your decision but thought I’d ask the question in case!
 
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Dancing Fire

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 3, 2004
Messages
30,809
4FA4ECA6-55D7-4B7F-A1A2-243DA53E06BC.jpeg 1BC1B3A7-DE52-4E7A-8651-7BB07297240E.jpeg

Both are true tension set so are incredibly open but, from top view anyway, the round looks even more open because of the expanse of free girdle. Was that true in real life too, DF?
Lissy, Both settings have grooves on the inside. IOW, the girdle of the stone is sitting on "slots" so that it can't slide out.

@kenny can explain about tension settings much better than I can.
 

Mooshi

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 23, 2014
Messages
16
Thanks DF, great info about the retrofit, and makes up my mind for that particular setting.

@lissyflo The 'tension' setting I had picked out is only 3mm wide with the stone being 7.3mm so it wouldn't take up too much of the girdle. But you are right, I'm aiming for half performance half aesthetics of the entire right, I'd love if lots of yellow gold was reflected inside the stone making it even warmer.
 

caolsen

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
306
Tension setting are lovely, especially for Asscher cuts, but you have to go in knowing they are not as secure as most other settings. If you baby your rings, go for it, but if you live in them - be aware. I am a full on bezel babe, and I had my Asscher and my largest emerald cut set that way. 731179
726531
 

caolsen

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
306
Ft Thomas Jewelry in Highland Heights, Ky. The designer is named Taylor. She’s great and the prices are really fair. She also designed the emerald with all the channel set stones.
 

princessandthepear

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 26, 2015
Messages
580
If I remember correctly, tension settings are not normally resized. Resizing interferes with the spring loading effect which holds the diamond in place. If you are interested in tension settings then look into BooneRings. They are extremely reasonable. If not a tension setting then maybe a semi bezel setting.
 

kenny

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 30, 2005
Messages
27,497
I don't know enough about tension settings in terms of durability but I love bezels and how easy they are to wear so I voted that way.
A prong is WAY less durable than a tension setting.
Prongs are tiny and delicate and catch on things.
Gals lose diamonds every day by simply putting their hand into a pocket or purse, or putting on a sweater.
She feels nothing, but later notices her diamond is gone.

Tension settings, when made by a reputable company like Niessing or Steven Kretchmer, are so beefy that if you subjecteted it to a trauma strong enough to release the diamond you'd probably end up in the ER with broken bones in your finger.
 

kenny

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 30, 2005
Messages
27,497
I'd put it in a tension setting.
They let more light in, and out.

Tension settings let you enjoy more of the diamond light show you paid so dearly for.
It's almost like seeing it naked :Up_to_something: instead of behind bars :blackeye: (aka prongs).
 
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