Find your diamond
Find your jewelry
shape
carat
color
clarity

How to set large dark amethyst?

Status
Not open for further replies. Please create a new topic or request for this thread to be opened.

LaraOnline

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Feb 24, 2008
Messages
3,365
Hi guys!
I have a large amethyst that is a deep purple oval.

It's measurements are: 22.7mm x 19.9mm x 14mm deep!!!

From the back (culet side) the deep purple colour is clear, but from the front front, it can appear very deep, almost black, with dark purple highlights where the light comes through the sides.

It is soo deep!
I'm thinking as thin a bezel as possible, with no back (to let the light through to the stone, although of course my body will be in the way of the light), fixed onto a shortish chain as a necklace to sit at the throat.
I hope this is secure enough!!

What would you do with it??

It looks like this photo of spinel (captured from the Coloured Stone board landing page), but (much) darker!


lookslikethisonlydarker.jpg
 

ma re

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Messages
2,698
Except the photo shows a cushion and not an oval


For starters I''d eliminate any idea of a white metal since the contrast will make the stone appear even darker. That leaves you with either yellow or rose gold, each of which can look smashing with an amethyst - it''s all a matter of taste. If you''re more into monochromatic color schemes you can set it in rose gold and have some (for example) pink sapphire accent stones. That would give you a pastel rose on the edge, vibrant pink inside and deep purple in the center. Or you can set it in yellow gold for a really rich, fun look. Yellow and purple are complements, which means they accentuate each other more than any other colors would complement them. I''d also consider a prong setting over a bezel, as bezels are known for darkening stones, and prongs let much more light in.

Hope this helps.
 

LaraOnline

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Feb 24, 2008
Messages
3,365
Hi there ma re, thank you for taking pity on me, and answering...

lol about my cushion / oval confusion geez my stone does look pretty similar, is described as a 'Portuguese Oval' lol

I have done a bit of lurking and was originally leaning towards a prong set. However, the stone is so deep 14mm that I was wondering how a six-claw prong set would go?

I have an amethyst bangle, which pretty much has the six-claw prong set I was originally thinking of for this unset stone, but considered that perhaps the relatively high sides of the set (I'll attach a picture, apologies for the poor quality of the pic) would shut out too much light?

I was also considering going for the prong set, but having decorative cut-outs stamped into the sides of the set, to allow the light in...

Bangle is in rose gold, but I was thinking maybe YG for this one!!


amethyst bangle 009 resized.jpg
 

ma re

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Messages
2,698
Date: 4/18/2009 5:14:09 AM
Author: LaraOnline

I have an amethyst bangle, which has the six-claw prong set I was originally thinking of, but considered that perhaps the relatively high sides of the set (I''ll attach a picture, apologies for the poor quality of the pic) would shut out too much light?
I think they probably would. But the idea of stamped cut-outs in the sides is a really good one. Hope you know that it won''t be easy finding an already made setting for such a large stone, so prepare yourself for going custom. BTW, such large amethysts were often used in antique jewellery as the centerpieces of multi-strand pearl chokers - does that sound interesting?
 

arjunajane

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Jan 18, 2008
Messages
9,758
Oohh..why don't you have Sally customise the Pillbox ring as a pendant in YG - it has the cut outs


pillbox ring12.jpg
 

LaraOnline

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Feb 24, 2008
Messages
3,365
oops! You're online. I edited my original post, the stone is described as 'portuguese oval' cut... I wonder what that means specifically?

so interesting to hear about chokers! I was thinking about perhaps putting it on a shortish chain, to keep it up near the throat. Also interested in setting it sideways.

It's such a heavy stone... I'm wondering what weight chain would be suitable...


AJ, Sally is in Thailand, is she not? I'm scared to send it!
 

arjunajane

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Jan 18, 2008
Messages
9,758
Hey Lara - yep, she's in Chiang Mai - honestly, I was scared too, but I went ahead and sent mine and of course it got there without
incident. So did katebar.
We have discussed the most discreet way to ship things there over in Jewelery in the Etsy thread - I can repost it here for you
if you'd like.
It will always be a risk, but it's not a big a risk as I first thought

alternatively, Sally has recently amended her policy and will create the setting in absentia of the gem as long as you can give
her the exact measurements. Then you will need someone to set the stone here..personally, I think its just easier to send it!
 

LaraOnline

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Feb 24, 2008
Messages
3,365
Do you think it''s worth sending os? Well, I guess you do!
Undoubtedly it''s a significant saving as opposed to getting the local guy to do it for million plus bucks?
 

LaraOnline

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Feb 24, 2008
Messages
3,365
Te pillbox really does let a lot of light through, I can see that...

Do you think it's worth considering having a pillbox set that only comes halfway down the side of the gem say, 5mm (the depth of the stone is almost three times that)?

So that the bottom half of the stone, including the culet, sticks out the 'other side' of the pillbox set?

I know this is unconventional, but as a pendant, it doesn't need to be fully enclosed to be attached to a ring shank or whatever... it's not a particularly pointy culet, I don't think it would stick in too much. (but of course I don't really know)

Just to let the light through.
Do you think the amethyst would be secure in such a setting?

Also, is this pill box setting always a bezel, or is it possible to have a prong set with the pill box surround ( a little bit like a 'new and improved' version of my bangle setting). I guess I'd have to write to
Sally and ask her!


ETA: What about a martini style??

Or a semi-bezel?
 

ma re

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Messages
2,698
In terms of cost, it''s probably a good idea to have the setting made in Thailand, shipped to you and then set locally.

About chokers - HERE''s my inspiration for that style. I know your stone isn''t as huge or as expensive as her sapphire, but you can achieve a similar look.

If you decide to set it sideways (by that you mean horizontally, right) I''d suggest a wider necklace. If you''d do that and make the stone a part of the design, instead of just an attachment, you would (so to speak) neutralize the visual weight. There was a thread recently about Freke''s large oval topazes that she''s thinking of setting in a necklace for her wedding, where we discussed these issues. I''ll try to find it.

About weight of chains, it all depends on the final weight of the pendant. If it''s something with not much metal, you can even go with a 3 gram (or so) chain, but you''ll see once you have it done.
 

LaraOnline

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Feb 24, 2008
Messages
3,365
Thank you very much guys, you're giving me lots of good ideas!

Will go on to read this thread!

I'm kinda hoping it will be something fun I can wear casually, so perhaps I'll try and keep it on a shorter, single chain - as long as it will be comfortable that is.

I do have an omega chain already that might come in handy for this pendant, depending on how it is eventually set.

Mr Ma Re, you've inadvertently given me the idea of perhaps having the chain hook up behind the pendant, rather than the standard lobster clasp at the back of the neck...
 

LaraOnline

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Feb 24, 2008
Messages
3,365
Gad, you are really great with your suggestions... I love your bracelet / necklace idea, that is totally cool...

and WOW, Freke''s dress is totally STUNNING!!

Geez, maybe it''ll wind up being a lariat... this whole ''setting fantasy'' thing is kinda exhausting!

Something tells me not to rush!!
 

ma re

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Messages
2,698
Date: 4/18/2009 10:10:43 AM
Author: LaraOnline

I do have an omega chain already that might come in handy for this pendant, depending on how it is eventually set.

Mr Ma Re, you''ve inadvertently given me the idea of perhaps having the chain hook up behind the pendant, rather than the standard lobster clasp at the back of the neck...
Love both of these ideas - seems like you''re having a fun Saturday morning


P. S. Consider using high karat (like 22k) yellow gold for the amethyst. It makes them look really great, and you said you''d like something fun - a vibrant color combo like that would certainly look like fun.
 

katebar

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
1,566
Lara I would definitely send your stone to Sally for her opinion on how to set it. Honestly my experience with her so far has been amazing. She writes the most informative and wonderful emails which describe in great detail what her design suggestions are and as well as what she ''sees'' in the stone. Here is what she wrote about my stone and I almost felt I was there with them all!

"We have started on your rings. I want you to know that taking your garnet out of the box in daylight (the workshop is semi-open air, and it was about noon) blew us all away. This is an awesome sunlight stone. We talked about the the need for maximum light, and the cutwork will be slightly finer on your piece, to allow for this to happen. The areas of extinction look beautiful in the sun. Almost velvety ... you can enjoy these as part of its uniqueness"

She is also a very interesting lady and very well travelled. We have had some interesting convo''s on the situation in Thailand at the moment and sort of knowing you from here I think you would like to deal with someone like Sally rather than some suburban jeweller sitting in his workroom in Nedlands!
Plus the cost it ridiculously cheap!
 

VRBeauty

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 2, 2006
Messages
10,191
Date: 4/18/2009 7:09:46 AM
Author: LaraOnline

Do you think it's worth considering having a pillbox set that only comes halfway down the side of the gem say, 5mm (the depth of the stone is almost three times that)?


So that the bottom half of the stone, including the culet, sticks out the 'other side' of the pillbox set?

ETA: What about a martini style??


Or a semi-bezel?
I think you might run into a few problems if the setting isn't as deep as the stone. First, the stone might wobble from side to side, with the culet acting as a fulcrum, if the sides of the setting don't hold it stable against your skin. Second, the stone is likely to get dirty more quickly as it would pick up oils from your skin. Wearing the necklace against a nice plush wool sweater might minimize those effects... but personally, I'd like the option of wearing it against bare skin!

I assume you're looking to minimize the gold cost. A wire basket type setting would use less gold than a bezel setting, but I'm (totally) guessing the labor costs might be higher.

How about a semi-bezel effect using a filigree style bezel like the one AJ posted? Or... using the filigree bezel as you would corner-set prongs?

I hope you'll post some pictures of the stone itself!
 

arjunajane

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Jan 18, 2008
Messages
9,758
Lara, ditto Kate on the sending it to Sally thing - I think you guys woudl get on famously!
I also agree with VR, I''m not sure about the sides not going all the way down on a pendant, it will most likely create "movement" issues..
However, as kate mentioned Sally is very good with adapting her designs and communicating with you over them - plus yes,
she will be ~50% or more less than Perth





Kate "some guy sitting in Nedlands" - lol!
 

LaraOnline

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Feb 24, 2008
Messages
3,365
Date: 4/18/2009 9:39:27 PM
Author: VRBeauty
I think you might run into a few problems if the setting isn''t as deep as the stone. First, the stone might wobble from side to side, with the culet acting as a fulcrum, if the sides of the setting don''t hold it stable against your skin. Second, the stone is likely to get dirty more quickly as it would pick up oils from your skin....

I assume you''re looking to minimize the gold cost. A wire basket type setting would use less gold than a bezel setting, but I''m (totally) guessing the labor costs might be higher.

How about a semi-bezel effect using a filigree style bezel like the one AJ posted? Or... using the filigree bezel as you would corner-set prongs?
Actually, cost isn''t the issue on this, it was more about maximising the light into the stone. Yes, I am toatlly with you on the fulcrum thing... it was a pretty crummy idea actually.
 

LaraOnline

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Feb 24, 2008
Messages
3,365
wow thanks for the info on Sally, Kate! I see what you mean by her communication!!

And, yeah lol at the suburban jeweller... some of the older guys get pretty gruff and well, they seem pretty sick of fussy, particular girls... and designing in general, tbh! It''s like ''give me a watch to fix!'', haha
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 22, 2004
Messages
37,195
I love amethyst in yellow gold. Since it is darkish, I''d set it in something as open as possible to let all the light in. A pendant can end up static at the neck; if you can create a design that allows it to move/dangle, the movement will catch the light and give some nice flash from the amethyst. Maybe something hung from a jump hoop to allow a small degree of movement.
 

LaraOnline

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Feb 24, 2008
Messages
3,365
Date: 4/18/2009 11:21:58 PM
Author: Chrono
I love amethyst in yellow gold. Since it is darkish, I''d set it in something as open as possible to let all the light in. A pendant can end up static at the neck; if you can create a design that allows it to move/dangle, the movement will catch the light and give some nice flash from the amethyst. Maybe something hung from a jump hoop to allow a small degree of movement.
I think I will google ''jump hoop, but hoping you could give me an idea...?

Does it have a little node in it, to make it move around?
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 22, 2004
Messages
37,195
Yes, a little node or ring of metal connected to the pendant itself that allows free movement of the pendant.
 
Status
Not open for further replies. Please create a new topic or request for this thread to be opened.
Be a part of the community It's free, join today!

Need Something Special?

Get a quote from multiple trusted and vetted jewelers.

Holloway Cut Advisor



Diamond Eye Candy

Click to view full-size image.
Top