How to choose an emerald?

[Crimson]

So, I went through stones at JR Columbian and found two... am I close? Lots had windows, black inclusions, surface reaching inclusions. And oddly sometimes it only says "oil" and not how much, and they don't show all the certificates. Of course, the images are ginormous, so who knows what I would have seen on those in real life?

4.93 Carat Minor Oil 10.5 x 9.5 Vivid Bluish Natural Loose Colombian Emerald-Cushion Cut

Stone: EmeraldWeight: 4.93-caratsShape: Cushion CutClarity: TransparentLuster: ExcellentColor: Vivid Bluish GreenMeasurements: 10.37mm x 9.57mm x 7.85mmGeographic Origin: ColombiaTreatment: Natural, Minor OilComments: Due to their growth conditions in nature and recovery methods, most emeralds...

jrcolombianemeralds.com

2.60 Carat AAA+ Minor Oil Vivid Green Natural Loose Colombian Emerald-Cushion Cut 9x8 Cushion Cut Emerald

Stone: EmeraldWeight: 2.60-caratsShape: Cushion Cut Clarity: TransparentLuster: ExcellentColor: Vivid GreenMeasurements: 8.62mm x 8.16mm x 6.42mmGeographic Origin: ColombiaTreatment: Natural, Minor OilComments: Due to their growth conditions in nature and recovery methods, most emeralds contain...

jrcolombianemeralds.com

Will these glow? Are they nicely cut? No terrible inclusions?

Yes, it seems they have a wide range of emeralds of different quality. Of the two that you chose, I like the second one is better. It is smaller, but the colour looks better. I noticed the photos are all taken indoors. You might want to ask them for some outdoor picks or video. Make sure the emerald doesn’t look washed out. It may look lighter but the colour should still be rich and intense.

 

[HockeyMama]

Yes, it seems they have a wide range of emeralds of different quality. Of the two that you chose, I like the second one is better. It is smaller, but the colour looks better. I noticed the photos are all taken indoors. You might want to ask them for some outdoor picks or video. Make sure the emerald doesn’t look washed out. It may look lighter but the colour should still be rich and intense.

Thank you, I'm glad I'm on the right track. Right now I'm also looking at antique shops and auction houses for vintage pieces. I'll keep y'all posted and start a new thread when I'm close to making a choice for final opinions!

 

[minousbijoux]

What about Lang's Antiques - is that worth checking out? I typically love their curated collection.

 

[HockeyMama]

I have looked at Lang's, Eragem, Jack Weir, Wilson's and others.

Lang's doesn't have any emeralds I love right now but there is a sapphire ring that is next on my wish list... mid century Ceylon no heat 8 carat. Delicious...



Once upon a time Lang had this 1.97 Columbian minor oil that I would have bought in a heartbeat but it is long sold...




Jack Weir has this Zambian emerald and I love the size and look, but the line/inclusion/fissure across the top would bother me. I like that this is a more petite look as I think I would get more wear out of it... 2.15 carat minor oil



I found this vintage Tiffany emerald cabochon at Wilson's but I think the size would make it less wearable for me... Columbian, minor oil, 7.15 carat. Again the fissures seem very glaring.


I can see a cab in my future but I think a faceted stone first.

Based on these do yall think I should search for a vintage ring or find a stone?

 

[Rfisher]

Lang's doesn't have any emeralds I love right now but there is a sapphire ring that is next on my wish list... mid century Ceylon no heat 8 carat. Delicious...

I love this ring and that it’s incredible find /origin story has a thread here before it ended up at Langs


sorry - no help to you.
I just recognized it

 

[HockeyMama]

I love this ring and that it’s incredible find /origin story has a thread here before it ended up at Langs


sorry - no help to you.
I just recognized it

Well, that's a buzzkill. Super cool story for the OP but reading all the feedback on the stone there is no way I would pay Lang's asking price. Also goes to show that I cannot rely on my own judgement. Which brings me back to wishing there was an ACA version of colored stones. Please picture me stomping my feet and crying on the floor like a toddler. Sigh.

 

[Crimson]

I have looked at Lang's, Eragem, Jack Weir, Wilson's and others.

Lang's doesn't have any emeralds I love right now but there is a sapphire ring that is next on my wish list... mid century Ceylon no heat 8 carat. Delicious...



Once upon a time Lang had this 1.97 Columbian minor oil that I would have bought in a heartbeat but it is long sold...




Jack Weir has this Zambian emerald and I love the size and look, but the line/inclusion/fissure across the top would bother me. I like that this is a more petite look as I think I would get more wear out of it... 2.15 carat minor oil



I found this vintage Tiffany emerald cabochon at Wilson's but I think the size would make it less wearable for me... Columbian, minor oil, 7.15 carat. Again the fissures seem very glaring.


I can see a cab in my future but I think a faceted stone first.

Based on these do yall think I should search for a vintage ring or find a stone?

Agree with you about the fissures - but they are all much enlarged here

 

[Crimson]

I love this ring and that it’s incredible find /origin story has a thread here before it ended up at Langs


sorry - no help to you.
I just recognized it

Wow, @Rfisher what story? How intriguing.

 

[HockeyMama]

Wow, @Rfisher what story? How intriguing.

Can anyone give me a ballpark blue Sapphire value?

Glad to hear you're going with a lab. A GIA report with origin will answer most of our questions with certainty. When last I checked the turnaround time of the Carlsbad lab was about 1 month. Should I send it to Carlsbad instead of NYC? I don't know how this works.

www.pricescope.com

Here is the story…

 

[Mrsz1ppy]

Well, that's a buzzkill. Super cool story for the OP but reading all the feedback on the stone there is no way I would pay Lang's asking price. Also goes to show that I cannot rely on my own judgement. Which brings me back to wishing there was an ACA version of colored stones. Please picture me stomping my feet and crying on the floor like a toddler. Sigh.

Well, there kind of is…AGL does a grading report which grades the color of a stone. This website will help explain it. https://www.preciousgemstones.com/
‘All the stones he brokers comes with this report.

ART DECO EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING

Step-cut emerald of approximately 0.70 carats, old half moon, trapezoid, baguette- and carré-cut diamonds, 1930sGCS, 2023, report no. 5783-2368: Russia, indications of minor clarity enhancementSize/Dimensions: UK ring size OGross Weight: 4.4 grams

onlineonly.christies.com

SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING

Cushion-shaped sapphires of 3.14 carats, circular-cut diamonds, platinum (London hallmarks), 2023 (Coronation mark)Gem & Pearl Laboratory, 2022, report no. 21406: Sri Lanka, no evidence of heat treatmentSize/Dimensions: UK ring size MGross Weight: 6.2 grams

onlineonly.christies.com

If I didn’t have what I have I would be bidding on these two lots, a nice Russian emerald Art Deco ring and a gorgeous Ceylon sapphire.

 

[HockeyMama]

Well, there kind of is…AGL does a grading report which grades the color of a stone. This website will help explain it. https://www.preciousgemstones.com/
‘All the stones he brokers comes with this report.

ART DECO EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING

Step-cut emerald of approximately 0.70 carats, old half moon, trapezoid, baguette- and carré-cut diamonds, 1930sGCS, 2023, report no. 5783-2368: Russia, indications of minor clarity enhancementSize/Dimensions: UK ring size OGross Weight: 4.4 grams

onlineonly.christies.com

SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING

Cushion-shaped sapphires of 3.14 carats, circular-cut diamonds, platinum (London hallmarks), 2023 (Coronation mark)Gem & Pearl Laboratory, 2022, report no. 21406: Sri Lanka, no evidence of heat treatmentSize/Dimensions: UK ring size MGross Weight: 6.2 grams

onlineonly.christies.com

If I didn’t have what I have I would be bidding on these two lots, a nice Russian emerald Art Deco ring and a gorgeous Ceylon sapphire.

At the risk of sounding dumb… do normal people buy from Christie’s? In my head it was all mega millionaires from overseas. Also, given that you don’t get additional info or views, do you kind of trust that the stones are amazing or is your expert eye choosing these? You obviously have to take a leap bc you can’t return anything. I had actually looked at these myself. I love the emerald but want something a little less fancy. I’ve also looked at Doyle and Dupuis, some North American auction houses. But the same risks apply to those. I feel like maybe it would be safer to buy a signed piece at auction?

 

[Mrsz1ppy]

At the risk of sounding dumb… do normal people buy from Christie’s? In my head it was all mega millionaires from overseas. Also, given that you don’t get additional info or views, do you kind of trust that the stones are amazing or is your expert eye choosing these? You obviously have to take a leap bc you can’t return anything. I had actually looked at these myself. I love the emerald but want something a little less fancy. I’ve also looked at Doyle and Dupuis, some North American auction houses. But the same risks apply to those. I feel like maybe it would be safer to buy a signed piece at auction?

Whatever makes you comfortable. No you can’t return it. You’d have to resell it. I prefer to bid on items with lab reports myself. If you see them in a timely fashion, yes, you can get videos, more info, etc. from the auction house.

 

[HockeyMama]

Whatever makes you comfortable. No you can’t return it. You’d have to resell it. I prefer to bid on items with lab reports myself. If you see them in a timely fashion, yes, you can get videos, more info, etc. from the auction house.

OK! I'm going to keep my eye on upcoming auctions. And I read the fine print, I'll remember to add 25% to the final bid! Yikes.

 

[mellowyellowgirl]

@FornasettiLover hoping you can help me!

You know how you were quoted $10k per carat for a Colombian emerald? Is there an upper limit to the size of the stone? Eg a 6 carat emerald for $10k x 6? Or were they talking smaller 2-3 carat stones?

 

[RRfromR]

@FornasettiLover hoping you can help me!

You know how you were quoted $10k per carat for a Colombian emerald? Is there an upper limit to the size of the stone? Eg a 6 carat emerald for $10k x 6? Or were they talking smaller 2-3 carat stones?

@mellowyellowgirl , I was quoted 10k/ct no oil and 3k/ct for minor oil by brightgreenstones for stones less than 2ct. I'm not an expert , but their stones look gorgeous. I didn't ask farther questions, as they are outside my budget. JR has a website with the prices already posted. I think he's on etsy too.

 

[mellowyellowgirl]

@mellowyellowgirl , I was quoted 10k/ct no oil and 3k/ct for minor oil by brightgreenstones for stones less than 2ct. I'm not an expert , but their stones look gorgeous. I didn't ask farther questions, as they are outside my budget. JR has a website with the prices already posted. I think he's on etsy too.

Thank you so much!!!!! That is so very helpful!!!!!

Wow! The difference between no oil and minor is massive. Makes you really rethink the terms "minor" and "moderate."

 

[HockeyMama]

@FornasettiLover hoping you can help me!

You know how you were quoted $10k per carat for a Colombian emerald? Is there an upper limit to the size of the stone? Eg a 6 carat emerald for $10k x 6? Or were they talking smaller 2-3 carat stones?

@mellowyellowgirl , I was quoted 10k/ct no oil and 3k/ct for minor oil by brightgreenstones for stones less than 2ct. I'm not an expert , but their stones look gorgeous. I didn't ask farther questions, as they are outside my budget. JR has a website with the prices already posted. I think he's on etsy too.

The prices definitely go up exponentially with the stone size. I specifically asked for 2-3 carat stones because I want side stones and I don’t want to go wider than a 9mm stone.

The mild vs moderate oil thing is interesting. My concern is that the moderate oil have more inclusions and will therefore be more fragile, it’s not just an appearance thing. I have seem some lovely moderate oil stones in my searches.

JR seems to have the least expensive stones by far. Their website, strangely, doesn’t always note the degree of oiling for their stones and pieces. This seems incredibly odd as that is one of the major considerations when choosing an emerald.

 

[mewing]

@mellowyellowgirl , I was quoted 10k/ct no oil and 3k/ct for minor oil by brightgreenstones for stones less than 2ct. I'm not an expert , but their stones look gorgeous. I didn't ask farther questions, as they are outside my budget. JR has a website with the prices already posted. I think he's on etsy too.

I recently bought an emerald 2.8 carat, top colour and top clarity. That pricing sounds about right. i got mine a wee bit cheaper around 7,500k per carat. I did enquire brightgreenstones and if they quoted u that price, then it is a stone that is right at the top.

 

[RRfromR]

I recently bought an emerald 2.8 carat, top colour and top clarity. That pricing sounds about right. i got mine a wee bit cheaper around 7,500k per carat. I did enquire brightgreenstones and if they quoted u that price, then it is a stone that is right at the top.

@mewing , it was so perfect that it looked synthetic.

 

[mewing]

@mewing , it was so perfect that it looked synthetic.

I know what you mean! They have exceptional stones. Muzoemeralds by George Smith is outstanding as well, but i think his page has been hacked recently though.

 

[mewing]

@mewing , it was so perfect that it looked synthetic.

I've attached a few pictures from my vendor. It's as good as it gets because my iPhone cannot quite capture the actual colour of my emerald. Even these two from my vendor only captures around 70% of what it looks like in person? It has a much deeper shade in person and it has the old muzo mine grading.

It's 2.80 carats but faces up much bigger. I'm taking it to my jeweller to turn it into a vintage looking ring. I'll share when it's ready. But I foresee it will take 2-3 months. My jeweller is more like an artisan and she has her moods. If she hates the design you propose she will turn you down flatly.

 

[RRfromR]

@mewing, wow! That's huge and beautiful. Mine is very small (0.6 ct) but untreated, so I had to add two extra diamonds on the side for more coverage - the final ring will have 4 baguettes.

 

[mewing]

@mewing, wow! That's huge and beautiful. Mine is very small (0.6 ct) but untreated, so I had to add two extra diamonds on the side for more coverage - the final ring will have 4 baguettes.

Gosh! I love yours! It's not easy to find anything that is unoiled these days. It also looks very much like my first emerald that I lost in a theft about 10 years ago. For the longest time, I felt very sour whenever I see emeralds because I kept thinking about the one that I lost.