How to choose a custom designer?

[wishinpink]

Could you give me advice on the specifics of how to choose a custom designer?

For example, I emailed several ring custom designers and got a quote, but the quotes in prices all vary widely. I know the best option is not always just to choose the cheapest quote, so what exactly am I looking for in their work to decide if I like it? I looked at pictures of rings they made, but I feel like the pictures always make the rings look nice.

Designer rings vs non-designer rings, what is the difference? The amount of polishing?

Handmade vs cast, is one better than the other?

Of course, I want to get a ring that is exquisite and good value. I appreciate any advice you have!

I emailed Victor Canera, Steven Kirsch (both out of price range). And also Maytal Hannah and Durnell, both within my price range. I also spoke with ERD, and for the stock ring they had on hand, it was way cheaper than all of the above, and with a handmade option being available at the price range of Durnell. For sure, I did not like the stock ring I saw at ERD.

Please advise me! Thanks in advance!

 

[yssie]

1. Decide on a budget, and decide on your +/- tolerance.

2. Do you have a must-meet deadline or is your timeline more fluid?

3. What do you mean by "designer"? If you want a specific designer to make your ring (assuming they do custom work) then most of what you're asking isn't relevant - they'll have set policies and a set turnaround that you'll have to come to terms with/work around.

4. What type of ring are you looking for? Does it have bold lines? Lots of pave all over? Delicate filigree/wirework? Engraving? Is the overall "look" more 'modern' or 'antique'? Look through vendors' portfolios and narrow the list to ONLY vendors who have successfully executed the type of piece you're looking for, or at least have successfully executed the various elements you want (even if they weren't all put together into one piece). In your post you say that "pictures always make the rings look nice" - that's fine, you want to look at them in two ways:
-Does the overall "feel" appeal to you?
-Forgetting the big picture, do the details of each element look well-made and do they suit your tastes? You might like one vendor's pave but not see any good examples of his/her engraving, for example, and that vendor wouldn't be a good fit for someone who greatly values exquisite engraving...

4. Do you have a clear idea of what you want (and are/are not open to vendor suggestions) or do you want your vendor to help you design the fundamentals? This is a big advantage of CAD - but, of course, some vendors will use CAD without CAM, some will use CAM without CAD, some use both, some use neither, some vendors have skilled CAD artists than others don't... so what you really need to figure out is how detailed you want the 'preview' to be, and whether your chosen vendor is amenable to providing that sort of detail in some form.

5. How much communication do you need to feel comfortable working with the vendor? Do you need daily updates? Just an email to let you know they've started and another to let you know it's being finished? What status updates will you get (CAD? Wax? Drawings? Manufacturing progress pics?) Make SURE you and your vendor are on the same page re. expectations for communication up-front.

6. What happens if the piece is finished and you don't like it, or don't like something specific about it? The answer to this will obviously depend on exactly what you don't like, your expectations, vendor policies, whether you've been getting some sort of progress updates (ie. if you've seen a CAD and approved a wax and decide you don't want a cushion halo after all, well, that's on you... if you agreed on 3-sided pave on the shank and the finished ring doesn't have it that's on the vendor...)

7. Is a certain method of manufacture more appealing to you than another? Do you specifically want a handforged piece? If so, why? Do you want it because you enjoy knowing that a craftsman has painstakingly put it together by hand? Do you want it because it's popular/has a certain cachet in some circles? Because you believe it's the 'better' way to make some types of pieces? That last is the only one anyone else can comment on - my 2c: that's really not something you're in any position to judge a vendor by. There are pros and cons to all sorts of manufacturing processes - pick the right vendor based on everything else and that vendor will decide on the right tools for the task

 

[wishinpink]

Thank you Yssie!

To answer your questions- Budget under $2500, Fluid timeline.

I guess I meant designer as in not a store. I am looking for a ring similar to the Tiffany Novo, so I guess classic.

I don't feel I need to see the CAD or need a CAD and I don't need a lot of communication.

What happens if the piece is finished and you don't like it? <--- this is a good question. I am anticipating this won't happen because I don't think I'm asking for something super complicated, but I will be sure to check the policy.

I guess one of my questions is, how do you judge quality of settings in this case? How perfectly the pave is set?

I have no insistence on it being handmade. Just wondering how do you compare the quality of rings from vendor to vendor?

 

[yssie]

That's a very classic design

If they make a CAD I do think you should see it, as that's the model the ring will be built on - I think most CAD shops show their customers the CADs for approval as a matter of course so I don't actually think this one's a problem at all though.

How well the pave is done is a great metric for that sort of piece! Whether you a more delicate/minimal-metal look and whether a vendor is able to achieve that look, if there are lots of negative reviews about lost melee and deformed shanks...

I've never seen any of their work IRL but from pics here on PS I think Maytal and ERD do beautiful pave work, and all vendors will have some complaints but I can't think of anything egregious - I think you're in good hands with either

 

[stargurl78]

What about the BGD Novela?
http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/engagement-rings/pave-and-side-stones/novela-platinum-5372p

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/engaged-with-2-05-i-si1-bgd-blue.170942/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/engaged-with-2-05-i-si1-bgd-blue.170942/[/URL]

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/hello-brian-gavin-signature-h-a-diamond-novela-setting.184211/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/hello-brian-gavin-signature-h-a-diamond-novela-setting.184211/[/URL]

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/my-bgd-glamor-shots-have-arrived-1-582ct-rb-set-on-novela.153949/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/my-bgd-glamor-shots-have-arrived-1-582ct-rb-set-on-novela.153949/[/URL]

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/our-bgd-engagement-and-wedding-bands-are-finally-here.177880/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/our-bgd-engagement-and-wedding-bands-are-finally-here.177880/[/URL]


If not, I think ERD would be a great choice.