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How can a consumer select a fancy shape?

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Paul-Antwerp

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Generally, I do not follow up threads on fancy shapes, because aside from princess-cuts, we are not active in them. Recently however, I have been spending some time on this, and it led to certain observations and thoughts.

Reading some of the threads pertaining to fancy shapes, I gradually started to understand how these diamonds are offered by vendors, how the average consumer approaches his or her search and how the average PS-poster reacts to this. Unfortunately, my view on current realities does not make me happy.

Most vendors do not have a lot of fancy shapes in-house. As an example, I just did a search for pear-shapes, and found hundreds of stones, while the in-house-search yielded two stones, of which I doubt that they really are in-house. So, we can safely say that most fancy-shapes are virtual to the vendor.

Considering that cut-quality is the most important C, and that PS is advocating this notion very well, we can assume that any consumer with the luck of having found PS, will try to find a fancy shape with the best cut-quality. Now, how does he approach that?

We know that we have various online assessment-tools to judge cut-quality. For rounds, we have a cut-grade from a lab, the HCA, an ideal-scope-pic and possibly H&A. None of these are available or usable for fancy shape, with the exception of the rare stone having a cut-grade of AGS.

In reality however, most fancy shapes do not have a cut-grade of AGS. If we then look at using the AGA-charts (side-note: I do not necessarily agree with these charts), most stones on the virtual list only give table size and total depth, which makes the true use of these charts impossible. Finally, we know that ASET's give great information on the potential brightness of a stone, but none of these are available when looking at the hundreds of stones on the virtual list.

So, here we have consumer X, looking at a list of hundreds of stones, trying to aim for a certain cut-quality, but having almost no clue to make a first selection. I suppose that many resort to selecting on size, colour, clarity and price, and then consider a selection of three to five stones. In reality, the probability of any of these having the desired cut-quality is extremely slim.

A smart consumer will ask about these three to five stones in a PS-thread, where he will generally get the advice to ask for an ASET. Some vendors will offer this, while others will not. The quality of these pictures varies, and the regular poster here will have to work with what is offered. Unfortunately, the assessment of a face-up ASET-pic is difficult and the variety in photo-setups of various vendors makes it more difficult. Most importantly, the variety in fancy shapes makes it impossible to refer to a standard ASET as to how that shape should look like.

I personally find it impossible to judge these ASET-pics, and it is no surprise to see that even the most regular posters are facing the same problem. As such, I fear that the general PS-advice on this is not well-founded.

The result of this is not good. We see consumers making a pre-selection and we see PS-posters giving advice without a real foundation. The first selection of the consumer most often leads to the cheapest stones being picked and the forum has no real arms to steer the consumer in another direction. Offering alternative stones leads to the same problem, how can one pick out of a huge virtual list?

I would like to get reactions to my observations. I personally have my idea about how the problem should be approached. First, let us see if my observations are agreed upon.

Live long,
 

caolsen

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I am a newbie to be sure, but I was in a perdicament trying to find a pear a few months ago.

I ened up with a 2.63 VS1 L after A LOT of searching. You are right, very few online and B&M stores have anything in physical inventory to look at in person. The ASET, Ideal scopes, etc are great value additive tools, but my experience with a fancy was that I had to look at the thing. I had to hold it to understand the ''math'' as it applies to non RBs. I was lucky in that my VERY good local B&M was willing to search (and they did) to find what I wanted. It ended up being an estate piece.

The Cut Class guidelines helped a bit, but I still had to go with my eyes. I ended up with a stone that was Fine International Trade Cut BUT was rated 3a as the Table is way big, per the chart. But that shapre and outline of the larger table and this stone result in a lovely stone with massive amounts of pinfire and broad flash. I did not really like the light performance in the smaller tabled stones. That was me (for right or wrong) but I am the one who wears it
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I wonder if this contributes to the seeming decline in the popularity of these not round shapes?
 

Karl_K

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Paul,
I think your off base in some ways and dead on in others.

But the single biggest mistake is not using a vendor skilled in that shape to save a buck.
They are missing out on one of the best sources of information and assurance.

I do think that this is your personal opinion and not fact that nothing can be told from the ASET images.
I don''t have a problem reading pretty much any of them even if it is to tell them it is useless and have the vendor try again.
Many others are skilled at finding glaring problems with them.

Fancies are not hard:
1: find the skilled vendor for that shape.
2: have some called in for evaluation.
3: run the info provided by the forum.
4: buy and be happy ever after.
 

Paul-Antwerp

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Karl,

You are going to the solution, before I even touched that.

From what I read, it seems that you agree that a consumer trying to make a first selection in the huge virtual database is not going to end up with the desired result.

Let us consider solutions afterwards.

Live long,
 

Cinna

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Date: 3/25/2010 10:53:54 AM
Author: Paul-Antwerp
From what I read, it seems that you agree that a consumer trying to make a first selection in the huge virtual database is not going to end up with the desired result.
I am a consumer that is very new to diamonds and I recently bought an Emerald Cut diamond from a huge virtual database from a broker. Did not get to see a single image of it until it shipped here. I just did my research from PS on what hte "usual or ideal" cut would be (table %, depth %, girdle... just the very basics) and chose within those specs.

I got the loose diamond appraised by the highly recommended appraiser and he said I did my research and chose a "magical stone" and that it was "a winner". It really was a beautiful stone... or to my untrained eye.

When I asked him about idealscope and ASET images, he had the tools available, handed them to me and told me that I could view them but that they were really just gimmicks and not useful. I briefly viewed for ASET images through the scope and I saw flashes of red, pink and green intertwined.

Would I be considered within that very very slim percentile of consumers that actually got a great fancy stone just from specs? Because to my knowledge and from what I heard from my appraiser, I got a very desirable stone.
 

Karl_K

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Date: 3/25/2010 11:01:52 AM
Author: Cinna
Date: 3/25/2010 10:53:54 AM

Author: Paul-Antwerp

From what I read, it seems that you agree that a consumer trying to make a first selection in the huge virtual database is not going to end up with the desired result.

I am a consumer that is very new to diamonds and I recently bought an Emerald Cut diamond from a huge virtual database from a broker. Did not get to see a single image of it until it shipped here. I just did my research from PS on what hte 'usual or ideal' cut would be (table %, depth %, girdle... just the very basics) and chose within those specs.


I got the loose diamond appraised by the highly recommended appraiser and he said I did my research and chose a 'magical stone' and that it was 'a winner'. It really was a beautiful stone... or to my untrained eye.


When I asked him about idealscope and ASET images, he had the tools available, handed them to me and told me that I could view them but that they were really just gimmicks and not useful. I briefly viewed for ASET images through the scope and I saw flashes of red, pink and green intertwined.


Would I be considered within that very very slim percentile of consumers that actually got a great fancy stone just from specs? Because to my knowledge and from what I heard from my appraiser, I got a very desirable stone.
To be perfectly honest you got lucky.
Ask any vendor who calls in a lot of EC's and without contacting the seller up the chain and having them filtered the rejection rate is over 80%.
With the filter it is about 50%.

Your appraiser isn't that great either but thats another story...
 

Karl_K

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Date: 3/25/2010 10:53:54 AM
Author: Paul-Antwerp
Karl,


You are going to the solution, before I even touched that.


From what I read, it seems that you agree that a consumer trying to make a first selection in the huge virtual database is not going to end up with the desired result.


Let us consider solutions afterwards.


Live long,
No they wont unless they are very very very lucky like the poster above.
Narrowing it down to a few to have further checked out is the best that can be done from lists.
 

kenny

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Date: 3/25/2010 11:01:52 AM
Author: Cinna
When I asked him about idealscope and ASET images, he had the tools available, handed them to me and told me that I could view them but that they were really just gimmicks and not useful.

Perhaps gimmick = threat to his job???
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Paul I agree that selecting anything other than a round and perhaps a princess is much more difficult.
I'd like to add generic asschers to that list.

I long for tools to select fancy cuts.

Online sales are growing and our selection has to be made NOT seeing the stone in person.
Lots of us are not the "trust the seller" types.
We want easy to use objective tools to help us find well cut diamonds online.
 

petrock<3

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Thank you for this thread, I am interested to see where it goes. I spent months looking for the 1.5 radiant I have. I think its great, but really don''t know objectively if I got a good stone.
 

Lula

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Date: 3/25/2010 11:22:28 AM
Author: kenny
Date: 3/25/2010 11:01:52 AM

I long for tools to select fancy cuts.


Online sales are growing and our selection has to be made NOT seeing the stone in person.

Lots of us are not the 'trust the seller' types.

We want easy to use objective tools to help us find well cut diamonds online.

Kenny, anyone reading my posts over the past year knows that I am also not a "trust the seller" type. But over the past year, from my own experience, I've come to believe that a relationship with a trusted seller makes the buying process so much easier -- and decreases the chance that you will get a poorly cut stone and/or is a color or clarity that does not meet your needs.

I think we'd all like to believe that AGS 0 and GIA Triple EX rounds are fungible goods as far as cutting goes, but they are not. As has been stated in this and other threads, the tools we use here -- HCA, cut grade, certification, IS, ASET, etc. -- only help narrow the selection. They increase the chances that the stone you are considering will be a top performer. But there is still enough variance in cut between individual round and princess cut stones scoring the same AGS 0 or GIA triple EX cut grade, that I do not believe we will get to the point where we can just order them sight unseen off a list like we do other mass-produced consumer goods, like books from Amazon.

I think this is true even for AGS 0 and GIA triple Ex rounds and AGS 0 princess cuts, but doubly and triply so when buying a fancy cut.
With fancy cuts, your chance of finding a "winner" from the virtual list is akin to fish+barrel+gun.
 

denverappraiser

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‘Trust the vendor’. Hmm. There’s a definite leap of faith implied in that but it’s basically correct. We are more accustomed to ‘trust GIA’, ‘trust the ASET image’, ‘trust the AGA charts’ etc. For some reason it’s easier to trust an anonymous source than a person with a name, be it your vendor, your appraiser or even your own eyes. Even trusting anonymous strangers online somehow feels more comfortable than trusting an actual person. Trust is an integral part of the deal and in any such selection, whether it’s diamonds or anything else, it’s terribly important to decide in whom you are placing your trust and on what basis. In the case of fancy’s, GIA has NOT made any determination about the cutting so trusting them about it is right out. The limits of the ASET and even more the limits of making the images make this a dicey basis to use other than as an initial filter and the only available method is using human eyes. Who’s? The first pass is through GIA for clarity/weight/color, and through the dealer for the price and terms and every shopper who has done a modicum of research goes through this. The final filter MUST be your own eyes and an assessment of what you find beautiful so the first thing is to rule out all strategies that don’t end with an up or down decision made by you, with the stone in hand. We’re talking about a procedure that leads from point a to point b with the maximum chance of success.

I think the odds go up substantially if you buy from a dealer who actually has (or is willing to get) the stone.

I think they go up if you have it examined by your own expert who applies their own judgment having looked at a lot of similar stones. This may be the dealer, it may be an independent appraiser, it may just be a friend who’s done it before or it may even be you if you've been down this road before but practice helps a lot and it really does help to use someone who has done it before.

I think the odds go up if you actually look at some stones before picking one and getting a feel for your own taste in terms of things like girdle outline, bowties, colors, clarities, etc.

How to proceed? Choose your dealer first and then use them as an ally to choose the stone rather than trying to pick one from the virtual lists and have the dealers fight over who will be cheapest. Make the dealer your friend instead of your opponent. Buy only GIA graded stones. When you choose a stone, look at it in a variety of lighting conditions and under different circumstances. If you use an appraiser as part of the shopping process, choose one who you trust to give an unbiased and informed opinion. Buy with terms and conditions that allow you to return it for a 100% refund if you’re unhappy. Buy with enough time that you don’t have external pressures if the need for a return comes up.

These apply whether you’re buying online or in a store by the way. It makes no difference if the store is down the street or across the country.

Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Appraisals in Denver
 

Karl_K

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research. trust, verify

I don't advocate blindly trusting anyone.
Get educated and make an informed decision part of that is taking into account what a trusted expert says about a diamond and choosing that expert carefully.
Then ask for secondary opinions based on the data.
Then view it for the final decision, make sure there is a good return policy.
 

kenny

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Date: 3/25/2010 12:13:08 PM
Author: Karl_K
research. trust, verify
I don''t advocate blindly trusting anyone.
Get educated and make an informed decision part of that is taking into account what a trusted expert says about a diamond and choosing that expert carefully.
Then ask for secondary opinions based on the data.
Then view it for the final decision, make sure there is a good return policy.

+1
 

Andelain

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Tagging this thread so I can find it later. I''m looking for a nice pear shape.
 

Hest88

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With a fancy shape especially, I really do believe that a good amount of your success will come from having the expert guidance of a skilled vendor. So, as Karl said in his first post, the message isn''t "trust the vendor" it''s "choose the right vendor."
 

Rockdiamond

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BRAVO Paul!!!!

Your points are well thought out, and totally relevant.
I could not agree more.

To address a few points that have already come up:

Cinna- I agree with Karl, you did get lucky- but I'm sure your stone is a knockout!
You mentioned using a highly regarded appraiser.
To me, that is closely related to the points raised about ASET.
Here's how: If the appraiser LOVES the diamond, that is ZERO guarantee the consumer will.

The main problem these type of tests is that they may produce false positives, or false negatives.
I've heard that term so many times- "use this or that tool for rejection"

False negatives can be just as damaging as false positives as they can prevent the proper stone from being considered.

The AGA charts have this same problem- as well as another, which also bothers me greatly.
The AGA charts place ratings on stones.
A 1a is "better" than a 2a- right?
Well, if you're the consumer who just bought a stone you LOVE, then plug in the numbers to find you bought a "less than optimal" stone, it can hurt. It might actually place a seed of doubt in the consumer's mind with no basis whatsoever in fact. But a grading system like 1a, 2a etc sounds "factual"
Again, false negatives can be just as bad as false positives.

Another aspect to this which is so very difficult is the lack of trust placed in diamond sellers.
There may be very good cause for this disdain, if we use "averages"- but this is another area where false negatives can hurt the consumer.

I have enough PS scars no know NOT to refer to ASET as a "gimmick"- but there are many sellers who have great ability to select and provide fancy shaped diamonds that might use the word.

But Kenny's attitude ( feeling some sort of definitive test for fancy shapes is desperately needed) points out another common attitude here on PS.
There's a mistrust of sellers- as well as a feeling that "prosumers" are effective at assisting consumers selecting fancy shapes.
Put this together and sometimes it can get antagonistic....which is a shame, especially considering how well PS is monitored- resulting in an atmosphere where I believe the regular posters ( both tradespeople and prosumers) are ALL genuinely interested in helping consumers.
 

Lorelei

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I do agree with much of what you say Paul, it is difficult, especially when working from the virtual listings, to use a well known phrase - its rather like trying to find a needle in a haystack finding a decent fancy shape. Also if or when ASET images are produced, sometimes the quality of the images isn't good which makes it even more difficult....Another factor is that some vendors have limited inventory with fancy shapes which leads us back to the virtual listings and then potential shipping / evaluation fees for the client, its taking a gamble and very hard to screen suitable diamonds from the basic numbers.

I think part of the solution is also trying to find out as much about the poster's requirements and priorities as possible, particularly concerning cut quality. A large amount of fancies aren't cut for the best visual performance and there are different levels of cut and beauty as we know, plus add personal taste and preference to the mix. Sometimes posters aren't looking for the best cut fancy or even round, yes educate them on cut and the importance of it but in the end if they know their options and decide they aren't concerned about having a perfectly cut stone, then thats ok. For us here, I believe it is important to educate and show these buyers their options and guide them accordingly. And for the consumer asking for advice, it is important to understand where any advice given is coming from, that the majority are consumers, not experts and consider any advice or opinions offered accordingly.

Its a good thing to discuss this and timely, especially at the moment we have so many brand new posters daily asking for advice on ASET....Seems like fancies are suddenly very popular...!
21.gif
 

Rockdiamond

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Date: 3/25/2010 2:39:02 PM
Author: Lorelei
I do agree with much of what you say Paul, it is difficult, especially when working from the virtual listings, to use a well known phrase - its rather like trying to find a needle in a haystack finding a decent fancy shape. Also if or when ASET images are produced, sometimes the quality of the images isn't good which makes it even more difficult....Another factor is that some vendors have limited inventory with fancy shapes which leads us back to the virtual listings and then potential shipping / evaluation fees for the client, its taking a gamble and very hard to screen suitable diamonds from the basic numbers.

I think part of the solution is also trying to find out as much about the poster's requirements and priorities as possible, particularly concerning cut quality. A large amount of fancies aren't cut for the best visual performance and there are different levels of cut and beauty as we know, plus add personal taste and preference to the mix. Sometimes posters aren't looking for the best cut fancy or even round, yes educate them on cut and the importance of it but in the end if they know their options and decide they aren't concerned about having a perfectly cut stone, then thats ok. For us here, I believe it is important to educate and show these buyers their options and guide them accordingly. And for the consumer asking for advice, it is important to understand where any advice given is coming from, that the majority are consumers, not experts and consider any advice or opinions offered accordingly.

Its a good thing to discuss this and timely, especially at the moment we have so many brand new posters daily asking for advice on ASET....Seems like fancies are suddenly very popular...!
21.gif
Lorelei, the problem is determing what "cut quality" is.
Do we use the AGA chart?
On many occasions I've pointed out reasons the chart should not be used to declare a stone's "cut quality"

If we really wanted to assist consumers choosing a fancy shape they love, we need to know what they love about the shape.
Take Pear Shapes. Some are longer, more drawn out, others are more chubby.
I can tell you from real world experience dealing with many thousands of consumers- one is NOT better than the other.
Find one that you and I think is "perfect" and it might be too fat or too long for someone else.
I just touched on fat or skinny, but what about the nature of the curve on the top of a pear shape?
Some like it rather straight on top, others ( including me) prefer a more rounded top.
Advising people on "cut quality" based on our own preferences seems to be missing the "meat" about what makes people love fancy shapes..
 

Lorelei

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Date: 3/25/2010 2:59:30 PM
Author: Rockdiamond






Date: 3/25/2010 2:39:02 PM
Author: Lorelei
I do agree with much of what you say Paul, it is difficult, especially when working from the virtual listings, to use a well known phrase - its rather like trying to find a needle in a haystack finding a decent fancy shape. Also if or when ASET images are produced, sometimes the quality of the images isn't good which makes it even more difficult....Another factor is that some vendors have limited inventory with fancy shapes which leads us back to the virtual listings and then potential shipping / evaluation fees for the client, its taking a gamble and very hard to screen suitable diamonds from the basic numbers.

I think part of the solution is also trying to find out as much about the poster's requirements and priorities as possible, particularly concerning cut quality. A large amount of fancies aren't cut for the best visual performance and there are different levels of cut and beauty as we know, plus add personal taste and preference to the mix. Sometimes posters aren't looking for the best cut fancy or even round, yes educate them on cut and the importance of it but in the end if they know their options and decide they aren't concerned about having a perfectly cut stone, then thats ok. For us here, I believe it is important to educate and show these buyers their options and guide them accordingly. And for the consumer asking for advice, it is important to understand where any advice given is coming from, that the majority are consumers, not experts and consider any advice or opinions offered accordingly.

Its a good thing to discuss this and timely, especially at the moment we have so many brand new posters daily asking for advice on ASET....Seems like fancies are suddenly very popular...!
21.gif
Lorelei, the problem is determing what 'cut quality' is.
Do we use the AGA chart?
On many occasions I've pointed out reasons the chart should not be used to declare a stone's 'cut quality'

If we really wanted to assist consumers choosing a fancy shape they love, we need to know what they love about the shape.
Take Pear Shapes. Some are longer, more drawn out, others are more chubby.
I can tell you from real world experience dealing with many thousands of consumers- one is NOT better than the other.
Find one that you and I think is 'perfect' and it might be too fat or too long for someone else.
I just touched on fat or skinny, but what about the nature of the curve on the top of a pear shape?
Some like it rather straight on top, others ( including me) prefer a more rounded top.
Advising people on 'cut quality' based on our own preferences seems to be missing the 'meat' about what makes people love fancy shapes..
I agree with almost everything you say David, and it has never been said, at least not by me, that the AGA cut grading chart is any guarantee of a diamond's cut quality, but my feelings are as you know as a consumer, that I feel the charts are of use.

As to cut quality, I also agree that it can be a problem determining what cut quality is concerning fancy shapes....You and I would probably hold different opinions on that and even with rounds, I know you like a 60 60 and I prefer a different type - but I can still appreciate a nice 60 60 though! But for the purposes of this conversation, for me, when I consider fancy shapes of top cut quality, I refer to the branded diamonds generally such as Infinity, GOG Signature, ACA and so forth, the fancies that are cut with top visual performance in mind. That isn't to say that fancies which are built differently so to speak can't be beautiful, they certainly can, but I feel it is important to point out the differences between both types of diamond then let the consumer decide what they want.

I am not disputing that with your example of pear shapes that any particular shape is better than another, this comes down to personal taste. I know how I like my pears, the traditional teardrop shape with rounded shoulders, I don't particularly like shield shaped pears or ' fatter' pears but I wouldn't presume to tell someone else they are wrong for not liking what I like. I also try to never advise based on my personal preferences where possible.
 

Stephan

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A part of the solution could be that every diamond is scanned.
Paul and Jonathan already do that, and I applaud them both for that.
But one problem remains, it is the .gem viewer.
Gem Advisor looks way too unreal.
DiamCalc looks much more realistic, but it isn''t for free.
It would be nice to have a limited DiamCalc version, just to view scanned diamonds without the possibility to modify the proportions.
I''m sure potential buyers are ready to pay a premium for diamonds visible in DiamCalc, and this premium could help dealers to finance the project with Octonus.
 

mrskantz

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Is an ASET even a good sign of how good the diamond will look?

Doesn''t it just measure how light reflects when looking straight down at the diamond?
 

kenny

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Date: 3/25/2010 3:39:09 PM
Author: mrskantz
Is an ASET even a good sign of how good the diamond will look?
Doesn't it just measure how light reflects when looking straight down at the diamond?

Better than that.

The ASET scope gives different colors to the light that enters the diamond from 3 ranges, the horizon, straight up and in between.

A well cut diamond will present a pleasing combination of all three.
It will also continue to do this as you rock it back and forth, although this cannot be captured in one picture.

The reason this is groovy is in real life the light from those three areas is usually different, so the ASET identifies diamonds that will provide pleasing contrast and scintillation in real life.
 

Regular Guy

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Date: 3/25/2010 3:41:25 PM
Author: kenny

Date: 3/25/2010 3:39:09 PM
Author: mrskantz
Is an ASET even a good sign of how good the diamond will look?
Doesn''t it just measure how light reflects when looking straight down at the diamond?

Better than that.

The ASET scope gives different colors to the light that enters the diamond from 3 ranges, the horizon, straight up and in between.

A well cut diamond will present a pleasing combination of all three.
It will also continue to do this as you rock it back and forth, although this cannot be captured in one picture.

The reason this is groovy is in real life the light from those three areas is usually different, so the ASET identifies diamonds that will provide pleasing contrast and scintillation in real life.

Thanks, Kenny. Presuming this is correct, it''s both brief and very clear.


Paul, good thread!
 

oldminer

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The AGA Cut Class charts are good screening tools for fancy shapes. One must choose an outline which pleases them. This is very personal and not part of the function of screening by parameters. The charts will help you target stones which look reasonably large for their weight because better quality stones are not overly deep. The charts will help consumers avoid girdles which are overly thick or overly thin. Thin girdles can contribute to unforeseen durability issues and thick girdles contribute to excess weight and correspondingly less visual size. Shallow crown diamonds may have durability issues, especially near pointed ends in pear and marquise shapes. Steep crown diamonds are not so problematic. Tables within certain ranges of width allow for maximization of sparkle and fire around the crown. Overly large tables may hurt light performance and overly small tables will not look like the kind of diamonds dealers agree are premium, fine cuts. The length to width ratios are also non-grading suggestions based on dealer preferences. Consumers are free to choose any length to width ratio they personally prefer.

The charts take into account what experts know intuitively about diamonds, but what they have generally avoided in communicating to customers. The more blind diamonds are, the easier it is to sell the less than fine stones for premium prices. Diamonds and diamond dealers are tricky as all small merchants are. Try to buy oriental rugs at an Indian or Arabian bazaar and see how knowledge is the basis for making a good deal. The more you know, the better a deal you may make.

I think the criticism here is based on misunderstanding of what the AGA system does and what is does not do. People have said for a long time that they don't do what they are supposed to do, yet consumers use them and find great make fancy shapes. If you go through the parameters for round diamonds, you'll find the GIA and AGS0 stones are in the 1A-1B categories. I did this before GIA and AGS did it and I believe I did it right. The fancy shapes which make 2B and higher grades are all worthy of consideration. Cutters do not go out of their way to make 1A fancy cuts, but of those I've seen, they appear to be excellent looking. Cutters are very smart and do cut great looking diamonds when they are able to use such fine proportions. Why would they cut an ugly diamond with such excellent proportions? They wouldn't.

The AGA system helps consumers eliminate diamonds which have obvious parametric problems. It helps those who want very fine stones to know where the sweet spots are in a gradual way. There are many great diamonds in fancy shapes which are 2B and better and with that in the consumer's mind, I still believe the AGA system is very helpful to their search.

Those who disagree usually are those who are hoping to sell fancy shaped diamonds which have durability or visual size issues that a novice consumer would not understand unless they use the AGA system for screening. This sort of bias is understandable by anyone reading this, but just because eight or ten critics say the system is worthless, does not make it so. In fact, the noise making implies to me the uncomfortable elements of truth which some might prefer to just go away are clearly evident to consumers in the AGA system.

If Paul would cut AGA 1A ovals or pear shaped diamonds and market them he'd find that there are consumers who would love his production. It would take a lot of money and courage to buck the mainstream, but with enough staying power a cutter could carve a super niche with finely cut, beautiful diamonds which closely fit what I have deduced at top cut diamonds. No, I'm not the GIA, but this is the work of many years and based on observations of many diamonds. I have always asked for constructive advice and a few here have shared some with me. I have changed the charts a few times in order to do the job better. Saying they are worthless is just not helpful to anyone and in my opinion is not the best advice.
 

Lorelei

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Date: 3/25/2010 3:55:27 PM
Author: oldminer
The AGA Cut Class charts are good screening tools for fancy shapes.


Saying they are worthless is just not helpful to anyone and in my opinion is not the best advice.
I quite agree Dave!
 

kenny

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Messages
33,300
If I was a vendor and customers educated by your charts didn't want my diamonds I'd work to discredit your charts, or introduce doubt about them.
 

mrskantz

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Messages
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Date: 3/25/2010 8:20:51 AM
Author:Paul-Antwerp
Generally, I do not follow up threads on fancy shapes, because aside from princess-cuts, we are not active in them. Recently however, I have been spending some time on this, and it led to certain observations and thoughts.


Reading some of the threads pertaining to fancy shapes, I gradually started to understand how these diamonds are offered by vendors, how the average consumer approaches his or her search and how the average PS-poster reacts to this. Unfortunately, my view on current realities does not make me happy.


Most vendors do not have a lot of fancy shapes in-house. As an example, I just did a search for pear-shapes, and found hundreds of stones, while the in-house-search yielded two stones, of which I doubt that they really are in-house. So, we can safely say that most fancy-shapes are virtual to the vendor.


Considering that cut-quality is the most important C, and that PS is advocating this notion very well, we can assume that any consumer with the luck of having found PS, will try to find a fancy shape with the best cut-quality. Now, how does he approach that?


We know that we have various online assessment-tools to judge cut-quality. For rounds, we have a cut-grade from a lab, the HCA, an ideal-scope-pic and possibly H&A. None of these are available or usable for fancy shape, with the exception of the rare stone having a cut-grade of AGS.


In reality however, most fancy shapes do not have a cut-grade of AGS. If we then look at using the AGA-charts (side-note: I do not necessarily agree with these charts), most stones on the virtual list only give table size and total depth, which makes the true use of these charts impossible. Finally, we know that ASET's give great information on the potential brightness of a stone, but none of these are available when looking at the hundreds of stones on the virtual list.


So, here we have consumer X, looking at a list of hundreds of stones, trying to aim for a certain cut-quality, but having almost no clue to make a first selection. I suppose that many resort to selecting on size, colour, clarity and price, and then consider a selection of three to five stones. In reality, the probability of any of these having the desired cut-quality is extremely slim.


A smart consumer will ask about these three to five stones in a PS-thread, where he will generally get the advice to ask for an ASET. Some vendors will offer this, while others will not. The quality of these pictures varies, and the regular poster here will have to work with what is offered. Unfortunately, the assessment of a face-up ASET-pic is difficult and the variety in photo-setups of various vendors makes it more difficult. Most importantly, the variety in fancy shapes makes it impossible to refer to a standard ASET as to how that shape should look like.


I personally find it impossible to judge these ASET-pics, and it is no surprise to see that even the most regular posters are facing the same problem. As such, I fear that the general PS-advice on this is not well-founded.


The result of this is not good. We see consumers making a pre-selection and we see PS-posters giving advice without a real foundation. The first selection of the consumer most often leads to the cheapest stones being picked and the forum has no real arms to steer the consumer in another direction. Offering alternative stones leads to the same problem, how can one pick out of a huge virtual list?


I would like to get reactions to my observations. I personally have my idea about how the problem should be approached. First, let us see if my observations are agreed upon.


Live long,



Paul,

I recently bought an amazing princess cut that follows what you are saying. My jeweler also isn't a huge fan of the IdealScope. It did see a Sarin machine and another jeweler who raved about it.

Here are the specs:
1.2 Princess Cut
Color: H
Clarity: VVS1
5.94 x 5.76 x 4.44
Depth: 77.1%
Table: 69%
Girdle: Medium to Slightly Thick
Cutlet: None
Polish: Very Good
Symmetry: Excellent
Fluorescence: None
 

Stephan

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Messages
2,917
Date: 3/25/2010 4:06:31 PM
Author: kenny
If I was a vendor and customers educated by your charts didn''t buy my diamonds I''d work to discredit your charts, or introduce doubt about them.
Kenny, you didn''t follow the AGA chart when buying an Octavia... and your Octavia is beautiful.
2.gif
 

Paul-Antwerp

Ideal_Rock
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Messages
2,859
Just returned home from a nice dinner with some wine, and checked how this thread is evolving.

I see that there are many points raised, that I probably need to answer, but I am afraid that I am not in the best state to do this now. Please hold on until tomorrow.

One remark though, I notice that I have made an error in spelling the AGA-charts as ACA-charts. I am sorry for that, because refering to them as me not necessarily agreeing with them, and them generally being useless, because the virtual lists do not offer the information needed, does not in any way refer to the brand ACA.

I will come back with my replies tomorrow. In the meantime, David-Rockdiamond, could you at least try not to abuse my words and spin this thread into a direction that is not intended?

Live long,

[ PSAdmin edit - I have corrected all the ACA-charts to AGA charts for everyone ]
 

kenny

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
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Apr 30, 2005
Messages
33,300
Queen Mum, Karl pwns charts and tools.

Octavia is like a diamond from God.

it is not a mysterious generic cut on a virtual inventory with proportions frequently optimized for weight retention.
It is a branded cut, with proportions that are controlled to earn the brand.
 
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