Help with setting for old mine oval

[Mjay]

I recently acquired an oval shaped old mine cut diamond. My head is spinning on the best way to set it and I’d love advice. I want it to be a solitaire and I want to bring out the diamonds warmth as much as possible. It’s graded Q/R color. I’m obsessed with victor barbone but unfortunately they don’t work with customer stones. I’m thinking of having a similar setting done by David Klass. I’ll post a terrible picture of my diamond and some setting inspiration. My goals are to maximize size (it’s only 1.3 ct) and color. It is also a semi shallow/spready diamond. I’m also torn between platinum, unplated white gold, and yellow gold. 14k vs 18k. I want durability and something that will wear well and last.

 

[PreRaphaelite]

Congratulations on your stone! Many PSers feel that the best way to emphasize color in a warm stone is through contrast.

Do you want prongs, or would you enjoy a bezel just as much?

 

[Rfisher]

Beautiful stone and I love love your inspiration settings!
I don’t have the knowledge to recommend what metal would accentuate best- because there’s two ways of looking at it. The white metals adding contrast, vs yellow adding to the color. FWIW, I think the yellow in my three stone ring (crown setting like your inspos) adds to the stone color especially in side views.

 

[Mjay]

Congratulations on your stone! Many PSers feel that the best way to emphasize color in a warm stone is through contrast.

Do you want prongs, or would you enjoy a bezel just as much?

Thank you! I’m so excited! I’d say I’m definitely obsessed with the 8 prong but I’m wondering if a bezel will make the stone look larger. Im all over the place as far as metal goes. I was even thinking of a gold cup and platinum but I can’t find any images like that and am unable to picture it.

 

[Mjay]

Beautiful stone and I love love your inspiration settings!
I don’t have the knowledge to recommend what metal would accentuate best- because there’s two ways of looking at it. The white metals adding contrast, vs yellow adding to the color. FWIW, I think the yellow in my three stone ring (crown setting like your inspos) adds to the stone color especially in side views.

That’s exactly why I’m so torn on metal ‍ I want the stone to appear as yellow as possible. I’m even open to two tone

 

[Rfisher]

Is there any integrity concerns with the girdle of your stone? That might sway you to or against a bezel vs prongs?
Do you happen to have a local jeweler that’s friendly enough that you can pop your stone in empty settings to mock up what effect the different metal colors may have? Check out in as many different lighting types as possible.
I’m sure you’ve seen (and i wrestled with it myself) that the crown type settings can be very open and airy, or cupped quite close to the stones pavilion. I think this matters in relation to you looking to enhance your q/r color. (As in yellow gold probably wouldn’t have the same result on a high color diamond)

 

[Lookinagain]

Just my thoughts, but since your stone is pretty warm, I think a yellow gold setting bezel would bring out the color as well as making it look a bit larger. I think the bezel setting that you posted would probably accomplish what you want.

Also, I know you don't say you want a halo, but a halo with colorless diamonds would also bring out the warmth of your stone.

 

[yssie]

Your stone is really really lovely please share more pictures!

@Rfisher has some excellent questions - protecting any girdle weaknesses is top priority.

Both 8+ prongs and bezels will increase apparent size.

Colour is a little more complicated... a Q/R is a a very adaptable colour - unlike more saturated (or colourless) stones, you can significantly alter impact of warmth with through setting choice.

It’s been my experience that the more extreme the colour contrast between stone and metal, the more the difference in colour is highlighted. I wouldn’t put a Q/R in rich YG - I think the stone is likely light enough that the contrast would render it “whiter”. A metal that’s closer in colour to the body of the stone, perhaps slightly more yellow - 14k YG, maybe, or some alloys of unplated WG - would yield “overall warmth”...

Just my two cents

 

[Queenie60]

My OEC is a Q - set in two tone, platinum halo with 18K gold. Notice that I had the stone set in a yellow cup to enhance the warm color. Most of the time it appears to be a fancy light yellow stone.

 

[headlight]

My OEC is a Q - set in two tone, platinum halo with 18K gold. Notice that I had the stone set in a yellow cup to enhance the warm color. Most of the time it appears to be a fancy light yellow stone.

You’re killing me, that ring is TDF!

 

[headlight]

I recently acquired an oval shaped old mine cut diamond. My head is spinning on the best way to set it and I’d love advice. I want it to be a solitaire and I want to bring out the diamonds warmth as much as possible. It’s graded Q/R color. I’m obsessed with victor barbone but unfortunately they don’t work with customer stones. I’m thinking of having a similar setting done by David Klass. I’ll post a terrible picture of my diamond and some setting inspiration. My goals are to maximize size (it’s only 1.3 ct) and color. It is also a semi shallow/spready diamond. I’m also torn between platinum, unplated white gold, and yellow gold. 14k vs 18k. I want durability and something that will wear well and last.

Congratulations on finding such a pretty stone. I don’t envy you (although I actually DO!) over such a difficult decision... so many great options. I don’t think you can go wrong in whatever you choose.
I’m really into yellow gold around the stone and I like the idea of a bezel and, because it’s a cushion, I like the idea of the bezel having a milgrain edge.

 

[Rfisher]

@Mjay
What did you decide to do with this beautiful diamond of yours?
I’d love to see more pictures - loose or set!

 

[Mjay]

@Mjay
What did you decide to do with this beautiful diamond of yours?
I’d love to see more pictures - loose or set!

She still isn’t set I’m almost 100% sure I’m going to do a yellow gold crown setting. I may get the ball rolling within the next month or so. The stone is gorgeous in person but not photogenic at all. It’s very frustrating. I can’t seem to get a good picture.

 

[AV_]

It does look very, very beautiful in these pictures!

 

[Mjay]

Thank you everyone for the advice and kind words. I just made the tough decision to try to sell her. I have fallen in love with a similar but warmer 2ct stone that is already bezel set in yellow gold. But If I don’t sell her in the next few weeks I’m going to finally set her! I’m obsessed with this stone but I’ve always wanted to be in the 2ct club.