Help with setting for 1.52 OEC please

[jfo]

Hi! It's been years since I've been on Pricescope, but I recently purchased a 1.52 J SI1 OEC and am in the process of getting a custom setting in platinum for it. I know exactly what I want it to look like based on a ring I came across in an antique jewelry store on a recent trip. I tried my best to take photos of the setting, but they probably still aren't the best. It's just the perfect delicate setting that I want for the new stone. This will be a right hand ring for me with plans for it to be an heirloom for my youngest daughter who has an April birthday

I sent the same photos I'm attaching here of the setting to the local jeweler who is making the setting for my diamond. I received the CAD's today and I want to make sure I'm looking at them properly and indicating clearly to the jeweler what needs to be modified. Can anyone help please? For whatever reason the CAD makes this delicate ring look really clunky (almost masculine) to me, but maybe I don't know how to look at them correctly.

Also, the jeweler said that engraving is not (and will not be) indicated in the CAD.

For perspective, the OEC (not mine) that is in the setting is a 1.33 OEC that measures 7.25 x 7.08. Mine measures 7.48 x 7.64.

 

[jfo]

Here are my initial thoughts:

 

[jfo]

Here's my new friend for fun:

 

[EC8]

Beautiful diamond and lovely inspiration ring!
Looks like you hit upon all the relevant differences between the antique ring and the CADs, in my experience it takes several iterations to get to the final version.
One suggestion I would have is to get the critical measurements (shank width, width of shoulders, length of side marquises, height of ring, etc.) for this current version so that you can better guide the changes i.e. if the current shank width is 3.5mm then you can ask to have it narrowed to 2mm vs. just asking for it to be narrower (and the CAD designer interprets that to be something less than 3.5mm but not the 2mm you are looking for).

 

[jfo]

Thank you so much! Yes, that is an excellent idea about getting the measurements of the current design. I will ask for those!

 

[headlight]

Beautiful diamond! I think everything is way too chunky, even for a CAD, to be like the inspiration piece (which I love). And everything is squared off, not softly rounded. I hope the jeweler can execute this one. You want delicate and this is not!

 

[Dreamer_D]

Has your jeweller created a ring like this before? Have you seen their work? I fear this CAD will look nothing like your inspiration. It takes a rare talent to execute such delicate and skilled metal work.

 

[rainydaze]

I have seen CADs that were much closer to the inspiration result in finished rings that were still quite off from the inspiration. I have to admit, I am concerned enough with how off this CAD is to be compelled to post - please make sure that this jeweler's finished work achieves the look you are after. Getting the CAD right is only one piece of the puzzle, the jeweler/bench has to be very well versed in executing this style and the details in order for it to turn out as you are hoping!

 

[canuk-gal]

HI:

Looks like a square peg meant for a round hole. KWIM?

cheers--Sharon

 

[jfo]

Thank you, headlight! Yes, it was alarming when I received this first set of CADs. Very clunky. I know I have seen other CADs for other people making rings and thought they looked clunky too, but I am glad for the reality check that I am not off base!

 

[jfo]

Has your jeweller created a ring like this before? Have you seen their work? I fear this CAD will look nothing like your inspiration. It takes a rare talent to execute such delicate and skilled metal work.

I have seen some of their work before, but went with them mainly based on local reputation. I have never used them (or any jeweler) to make a custom ring so it’s so hard to know what to expect. My husband didn’t like the idea of purchasing a diamond and having it shipped off to be put into a custom designed ring so that’s another factor if staying with a local benchman. I am getting a bit nervous now, but I guess I just need to keep moving through the process. I certainly won’t be hasty in this design process.

 

[jfo]

HI:

Looks like a square peg meant for a round hole. KWIM?

cheers--Sharon

I do. I am going to try to remain hopeful for now and am looking forward to the next iteration of CADs.

 

[jfo]

I have seen CADs that were much closer to the inspiration result in finished rings that were still quite off from the inspiration. I have to admit, I am concerned enough with how off this CAD is to be compelled to post - please make sure that this jeweler's finished work achieves the look you are after. Getting the CAD right is only one piece of the puzzle, the jeweler/bench has to be very well versed in executing this style and the details in order for it to turn out as you are hoping!

Thanks for this! I did submit my feedback to the jeweler and he told me that the visuals and comments were very clear and he was going to send to the CAD designer to adjust. I will definitely share the results of the next iteration.

I was told that the ring would get cast based on the CAD design and then the hand engraving, etc obviously would come later. Was it in the engraving work that you saw big differences between a much closer looking CAD and the finished ring? Or the milgrain? I am trying hard to keep a cool head about this. Anything I can do to prevent a poor finished ring even if I eventually get a CAD that I am happy with?

 

[caolsen]

Lovely stone. I love that you’re planning for a generational piece

Here are photos of my era original die cast platinum ring with a late transitional round. It has a lot of what your looking for but no sharp 90 degree corners. I put it out there as 90 degree corners easily get caught in sweaters & hand towels and over time can
get banged and then they aren’t sharp square corners anymore.

If has a few single cut melee stones in the lace work, in addition to the squats sapphires - likely synthetic as that was the rage in the 20’s, along with a .10 pointer single cut under the main, gallery front and back.

If you’d like more detailed photos of the sides stones and the gallery let me know. There is no engraving per say, the lace effect is all punch press work from die casting. Die cast mental is more dense, at the molecular level so it’s harder wearing in the long run - big pulse on a piece you want to hand down the family. There are a few firms that still make these mounts - going to butcher the spelling but Van Cranyest is a great one.

 

[tyty333]

Will they do a wax for you @jfo ? Might help to make sure the proportions are as expected.

 

[distracts]

I recommend you read CSpan's posts on her experience with a local jeweler trying to get a much simpler antique-style band made. She eventually got it right, but it took multiple iterations and was pretty stressful for her. It's a lot easier if you go with someone who you have seen successfully make pieces that are like what you want, because you can trust them to get it right and don't have to do nearly so much micromanaging.

Ring Saga: Wedding Band Ed.

Original Attempt Inspiration and my first CAD Work in Progress Post I have received so much help from this community and I can't say thank you enough. Brief recap. I got engaged in 2014 with a handmade band and got to select my own ER. I started looking for a diamond band in 2016, assuming...

www.pricescope.com

 

[caf]

Will they do a wax for you @jfo ? Might help to make sure the proportions are as expected.

I’m with tyty333. You need a wax to make sure before you approve the final version. I had my jeweler make me a ring last September. The wax was invaluable because I was able to see that the ring was a bit too tall and the bezels needed a tiny bit of adjustment. CADs are great. But also having a wax allows you to see the “ring” on your finger before it is cast.

 

[jfo]

Lovely stone. I love that you’re planning for a generational piece

Here are photos of my era original die cast platinum ring with a late transitional round. It has a lot of what your looking for but no sharp 90 degree corners. I put it out there as 90 degree corners easily get caught in sweaters & hand towels and over time can
get banged and then they aren’t sharp square corners anymore.

If has a few single cut melee stones in the lace work, in addition to the squats sapphires - likely synthetic as that was the rage in the 20’s, along with a .10 pointer single cut under the main, gallery front and back.

If you’d like more detailed photos of the sides stones and the gallery let me know. There is no engraving per say, the lace effect is all punch press work from die casting. Die cast mental is more dense, at the molecular level so it’s harder wearing in the long run - big pulse on a piece you want to hand down the family. There are a few firms that still make these mounts - going to butcher the spelling but Van Cranyest is a great one.

Wow, what a lovely diamond and setting! Thank you so much for sharing! I was not aware of the different ways that rings settings are made (punch press from die casting), but I am definitely familiar with that style of ring with the lacework being so intricate. Just lovely!

I'll ask the jeweler what method they use?

 

[jfo]

Will they do a wax for you @jfo ? Might help to make sure the proportions are as expected.

I’m with tyty333. You need a wax to make sure before you approve the final version. I had my jeweler make me a ring last September. The wax was invaluable because I was able to see that the ring was a bit too tall and the bezels needed a tiny bit of adjustment. CADs are great. But also having a wax allows you to see the “ring” on your finger before it is cast.

Yes! I was able to confirm that this morning. I think that will make a huge difference to me whether it looks right and the proportions are right. I agree that CADS are helpful, but it's just so hard to tell what it will actually look like once on your finger!

 

[jfo]

I recommend you read CSpan's posts on her experience with a local jeweler trying to get a much simpler antique-style band made. She eventually got it right, but it took multiple iterations and was pretty stressful for her. It's a lot easier if you go with someone who you have seen successfully make pieces that are like what you want, because you can trust them to get it right and don't have to do nearly so much micromanaging.

Ring Saga: Wedding Band Ed.

Original Attempt Inspiration and my first CAD Work in Progress Post I have received so much help from this community and I can't say thank you enough. Brief recap. I got engaged in 2014 with a handmade band and got to select my own ER. I started looking for a diamond band in 2016, assuming...

www.pricescope.com

Thanks so much for sharing this. I'll go through and read this all, but I just wanted to say that if I had my way, I would send my stone to CvB Inspired Design and know I'll be thrilled, but my husband, whom I have to respect in this process, is very much wanting to support a local business and wants to keep the stone in town. He paid for the diamond, so I'll respect his wishes despite the fact that this may be much more stress-inducing than it probably has to be. So I am taking deep breaths and going to stay sane and will be a micro-manager if I need to be.

That said, I truly appreciate all the comments and feedback because i really haven't done this before and I don't know what I don't know. All of your feedback has already been very very helpful! Thank you, PS community. I'll keep you updated. I'm supposed to get updated CADS no later than tomorrow.

 

[EC8]

One other thing to add - you will want the milgraining applied to the finished ring, not part of the casting as it will not be as crisp or refined.

 

[jfo]

One other thing to add - you will want the milgraining applied to the finished ring, not part of the casting as it will not be as crisp or refined.

Oh wow, thank you! That's good to know. I think that would be why people are suggesting that the fine milgrain work really has to be done by someone very skilled at this. Hmm... I better ask. Now I'm nervous!

 

[MaisOuiMadame]

Great advice so far.

I hear on your DH' s input and completely understand and respect that you want this project to respect his wishes too.
However,

I just need to keep moving through the process

might be something you need to reconsider. If you feel that the local guy won't be able to get it right, then he probably won't.

To be 100 % clear: "right" in this case doesn't necessarily mean 100 % like the inspiration ring or some pricescope ideal. It means right for YOU.

If you are sure he'll deliver, perfect.

Just know that it's absolutely legitimate to stop that process at any point.
This comes from someone, who's local custom projects were hit and miss.

Until I found David Klass.

I have to ship internationally to /from him and am very reluctant to do so and that's limiting me as well. So I also understand why a local option looks good in the beginning.
Best of luck!!

 

[jfo]

Great advice so far.

I hear on your DH' s input and completely understand and respect that you want this project to respect his wishes too.
However,


might be something you need to reconsider. If you feel that the local guy won't be able to get it right, then he probably won't.

To be 100 % clear: "right" in this case doesn't necessarily mean 100 % like the inspiration ring or some pricescope ideal. It means right for YOU.

If you are sure he'll deliver, perfect.

Just know that it's absolutely legitimate to stop that process at any point.
This comes from someone, who's local custom projects were hit and miss.

Until I found David Klass.

I have to ship internationally to /from him and am very reluctant to do so and that's limiting me as well. So I also understand why a local option looks good in the beginning.
Best of luck!!

This is totally fair. I can't cheat myself out of something that I won't be happy with, so I'm not going to be completely inflexible, but I do want to give myself plenty of patience and time to see if this jeweler can do it. I think I'll know when I need to cut bait, but I really hope I won't need to do it.

Still waiting for the new CADs.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I mean, who is more knowledgeable about diamonds and jewelry, you or your husband? I think the person with more expertise should make this decision. Just my 2c.

Don't pay more than a small deposit until you have seen the wax. And be prepared to walk away.

 

[jfo]

I mean, who is more knowledgeable about diamonds and jewelry, you or your husband? I think the person with more expertise should make this decision. Just my 2c.

Don't pay more than a small deposit until you have seen the wax. And be prepared to walk away.

Again, totally fair point. I discussed with my husband tonight. He thinks it’s too early to make a decision to pull out, which I agree. I can tell he wants this to work out with the local jeweler, is frustrated that I already have concerns, but ultimately wants me to get the ring I want. It’s in iterative process with him too though, lol. As you said, I’d at least like to get to the wax stage and see how I’m feeling. I sourced the diamond through them as well so the deposit I paid really is going toward the diamond in my mind.

 

[jfo]

Updated CADs with no milgrain/filigree because the jeweler wanted to send along to see if the CAD designer was on the right path.

I admit I haven't looked at these in detail yet (it's been quite a day), so I'm just going to post here and then come back with my thoughts when I've had more time to review and digest. Would love to hear PS community thoughts too.

 

[jfo]

I took some time to look at the new CADs this evening. Attached is my initial feedback. Am I missing anything? One thing that was a little annoying is that I sent over measurements from the front view the first time and the designer still came back with different measurements.

 

[jfo]

One other thing to add - you will want the milgraining applied to the finished ring, not part of the casting as it will not be as crisp or refined.

I also wanted to mention that I did receive confirmation that they apply the milgrain after the casting, so I was glad to hear it!

 

[jfo]

Hi, it's been 6 weeks, but I have my ring in hand. Since my last post, I went back and forth with the original jeweler with several refinements, had a wax made and eventually had it cast, set and engraved. I'm super happy with the results, so I thought I would share. In this case, I'm glad I stuck it out with this local family-owned and run jeweler, especially given the hardships faced by small businesses right now.

No, the setting is not identical to my inspiration ring setting, but there are many elements that are the same and I like that this setting is uniquely mine. it is set in platinum with 14 single cut stones totaling .4 carats.

The whole ring is more blingy than I perhaps imagined, but I can't complain about that! It's also beautifully delicate in real life.

I still need to get a photo of under the basket as well. Thanks for being part of my journey.