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Help with setting for 1.52 OEC please

jfo

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
671
Hi! It's been years since I've been on Pricescope, but I recently purchased a 1.52 J SI1 OEC and am in the process of getting a custom setting in platinum for it. I know exactly what I want it to look like based on a ring I came across in an antique jewelry store on a recent trip. I tried my best to take photos of the setting, but they probably still aren't the best. It's just the perfect delicate setting that I want for the new stone. This will be a right hand ring for me with plans for it to be an heirloom for my youngest daughter who has an April birthday :)

I sent the same photos I'm attaching here of the setting to the local jeweler who is making the setting for my diamond. I received the CAD's today and I want to make sure I'm looking at them properly and indicating clearly to the jeweler what needs to be modified. Can anyone help please? For whatever reason the CAD makes this delicate ring look really clunky (almost masculine) to me, but maybe I don't know how to look at them correctly.

Also, the jeweler said that engraving is not (and will not be) indicated in the CAD.

For perspective, the OEC (not mine) that is in the setting is a 1.33 OEC that measures 7.25 x 7.08. Mine measures 7.48 x 7.64.


IMG_0457.jpg IMG_0458.jpg IMG_0459.jpg IMG_0500.jpg IMG_0501.jpg IMG_0502.jpg platinum ring a.jpg platinum ring b.jpg platinum ring c.jpg platinum ring d.jpg platinum ring e.jpg
 

EC8

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 19, 2006
Messages
224
Beautiful diamond and lovely inspiration ring!
Looks like you hit upon all the relevant differences between the antique ring and the CADs, in my experience it takes several iterations to get to the final version.
One suggestion I would have is to get the critical measurements (shank width, width of shoulders, length of side marquises, height of ring, etc.) for this current version so that you can better guide the changes i.e. if the current shank width is 3.5mm then you can ask to have it narrowed to 2mm vs. just asking for it to be narrower (and the CAD designer interprets that to be something less than 3.5mm but not the 2mm you are looking for).
 

jfo

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
671
Thank you so much! Yes, that is an excellent idea about getting the measurements of the current design. I will ask for those!
 

headlight

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Nov 2, 2003
Messages
1,862
Beautiful diamond! I think everything is way too chunky, even for a CAD, to be like the inspiration piece (which I love). And everything is squared off, not softly rounded. I hope the jeweler can execute this one. You want delicate and this is not!
 

dreamer_dachsie

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Dec 16, 2007
Messages
24,346
Has your jeweller created a ring like this before? Have you seen their work? I fear this CAD will look nothing like your inspiration. It takes a rare talent to execute such delicate and skilled metal work.
 

rainydaze

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 1, 2007
Messages
2,757
I have seen CADs that were much closer to the inspiration result in finished rings that were still quite off from the inspiration. I have to admit, I am concerned enough with how off this CAD is to be compelled to post - please make sure that this jeweler's finished work achieves the look you are after. Getting the CAD right is only one piece of the puzzle, the jeweler/bench has to be very well versed in executing this style and the details in order for it to turn out as you are hoping!
 

canuk-gal

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
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Apr 19, 2004
Messages
20,014
HI:

Looks like a square peg meant for a round hole. KWIM?

cheers--Sharon
 

jfo

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
671
Thank you, headlight! Yes, it was alarming when I received this first set of CADs. Very clunky. I know I have seen other CADs for other people making rings and thought they looked clunky too, but I am glad for the reality check that I am not off base!
 

jfo

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
671
Has your jeweller created a ring like this before? Have you seen their work? I fear this CAD will look nothing like your inspiration. It takes a rare talent to execute such delicate and skilled metal work.
I have seen some of their work before, but went with them mainly based on local reputation. I have never used them (or any jeweler) to make a custom ring so it’s so hard to know what to expect. My husband didn’t like the idea of purchasing a diamond and having it shipped off to be put into a custom designed ring so that’s another factor if staying with a local benchman. I am getting a bit nervous now, but I guess I just need to keep moving through the process. I certainly won’t be hasty in this design process.
 

jfo

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
671
HI:

Looks like a square peg meant for a round hole. KWIM?

cheers--Sharon
I do. I am going to try to remain hopeful for now and am looking forward to the next iteration of CADs.
 

jfo

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
671
I have seen CADs that were much closer to the inspiration result in finished rings that were still quite off from the inspiration. I have to admit, I am concerned enough with how off this CAD is to be compelled to post - please make sure that this jeweler's finished work achieves the look you are after. Getting the CAD right is only one piece of the puzzle, the jeweler/bench has to be very well versed in executing this style and the details in order for it to turn out as you are hoping!
Thanks for this! I did submit my feedback to the jeweler and he told me that the visuals and comments were very clear and he was going to send to the CAD designer to adjust. I will definitely share the results of the next iteration.

I was told that the ring would get cast based on the CAD design and then the hand engraving, etc obviously would come later. Was it in the engraving work that you saw big differences between a much closer looking CAD and the finished ring? Or the milgrain? I am trying hard to keep a cool head about this. Anything I can do to prevent a poor finished ring even if I eventually get a CAD that I am happy with?
 

caolsen

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
306
Lovely stone. I love that you’re planning for a generational piece :)

Here are photos of my era original die cast platinum ring with a late transitional round. It has a lot of what your looking for but no sharp 90 degree corners. I put it out there as 90 degree corners easily get caught in sweaters & hand towels and over time can
get banged and then they aren’t sharp square corners anymore.

If has a few single cut melee stones in the lace work, in addition to the squats sapphires - likely synthetic as that was the rage in the 20’s, along with a .10 pointer single cut under the main, gallery front and back. 6331E61A-C81E-48C7-B5BE-4DC371B13D67.jpeg

If you’d like more detailed photos of the sides stones and the gallery let me know. There is no engraving per say, the lace effect is all punch press work from die casting. Die cast mental is more dense, at the molecular level so it’s harder wearing in the long run - big pulse on a piece you want to hand down the family. There are a few firms that still make these mounts - going to butcher the spelling but Van Cranyest is a great one.

0FA05ECA-445D-4720-B5DB-DA1210C81461.jpeg

F910DAAC-B891-4D86-A999-6FE50974A680.jpeg
 
Last edited:

tyty333

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
21,319
Will they do a wax for you @jfo ? Might help to make sure the proportions are as expected.
 
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distracts

Ideal_Rock
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Oct 11, 2011
Messages
5,460
I recommend you read CSpan's posts on her experience with a local jeweler trying to get a much simpler antique-style band made. She eventually got it right, but it took multiple iterations and was pretty stressful for her. It's a lot easier if you go with someone who you have seen successfully make pieces that are like what you want, because you can trust them to get it right and don't have to do nearly so much micromanaging.

 

caf

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Nov 26, 2013
Messages
728
Will they do a wax for you @jfo ? Might help to make sure the proportions are as expected.
I’m with tyty333. You need a wax to make sure before you approve the final version. I had my jeweler make me a ring last September. The wax was invaluable because I was able to see that the ring was a bit too tall and the bezels needed a tiny bit of adjustment. CADs are great. But also having a wax allows you to see the “ring” on your finger before it is cast.
 

jfo

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
671
Lovely stone. I love that you’re planning for a generational piece :)

Here are photos of my era original die cast platinum ring with a late transitional round. It has a lot of what your looking for but no sharp 90 degree corners. I put it out there as 90 degree corners easily get caught in sweaters & hand towels and over time can
get banged and then they aren’t sharp square corners anymore.

If has a few single cut melee stones in the lace work, in addition to the squats sapphires - likely synthetic as that was the rage in the 20’s, along with a .10 pointer single cut under the main, gallery front and back. 6331E61A-C81E-48C7-B5BE-4DC371B13D67.jpeg

If you’d like more detailed photos of the sides stones and the gallery let me know. There is no engraving per say, the lace effect is all punch press work from die casting. Die cast mental is more dense, at the molecular level so it’s harder wearing in the long run - big pulse on a piece you want to hand down the family. There are a few firms that still make these mounts - going to butcher the spelling but Van Cranyest is a great one.

0FA05ECA-445D-4720-B5DB-DA1210C81461.jpeg

F910DAAC-B891-4D86-A999-6FE50974A680.jpeg
Wow, what a lovely diamond and setting! Thank you so much for sharing! I was not aware of the different ways that rings settings are made (punch press from die casting), but I am definitely familiar with that style of ring with the lacework being so intricate. Just lovely!

I'll ask the jeweler what method they use?
 

jfo

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
671
Will they do a wax for you @jfo ? Might help to make sure the proportions are as expected.

I’m with tyty333. You need a wax to make sure before you approve the final version. I had my jeweler make me a ring last September. The wax was invaluable because I was able to see that the ring was a bit too tall and the bezels needed a tiny bit of adjustment. CADs are great. But also having a wax allows you to see the “ring” on your finger before it is cast.
Yes! I was able to confirm that this morning. I think that will make a huge difference to me whether it looks right and the proportions are right. I agree that CADS are helpful, but it's just so hard to tell what it will actually look like once on your finger!
 

jfo

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
671
I recommend you read CSpan's posts on her experience with a local jeweler trying to get a much simpler antique-style band made. She eventually got it right, but it took multiple iterations and was pretty stressful for her. It's a lot easier if you go with someone who you have seen successfully make pieces that are like what you want, because you can trust them to get it right and don't have to do nearly so much micromanaging.

Thanks so much for sharing this. I'll go through and read this all, but I just wanted to say that if I had my way, I would send my stone to CvB Inspired Design and know I'll be thrilled, but my husband, whom I have to respect in this process, is very much wanting to support a local business and wants to keep the stone in town. He paid for the diamond, so I'll respect his wishes despite the fact that this may be much more stress-inducing than it probably has to be. So I am taking deep breaths and going to stay sane and will be a micro-manager if I need to be.

That said, I truly appreciate all the comments and feedback because i really haven't done this before and I don't know what I don't know. All of your feedback has already been very very helpful! Thank you, PS community. I'll keep you updated. I'm supposed to get updated CADS no later than tomorrow.
 

jfo

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
671
One other thing to add - you will want the milgraining applied to the finished ring, not part of the casting as it will not be as crisp or refined.
Oh wow, thank you! That's good to know. I think that would be why people are suggesting that the fine milgrain work really has to be done by someone very skilled at this. Hmm... I better ask. Now I'm nervous!
 
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kipari

Brilliant_Rock
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Joined
Jan 9, 2015
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1,630
Great advice so far.

I hear on your DH' s input and completely understand and respect that you want this project to respect his wishes too.
However,
I just need to keep moving through the process
might be something you need to reconsider. If you feel that the local guy won't be able to get it right, then he probably won't.

To be 100 % clear: "right" in this case doesn't necessarily mean 100 % like the inspiration ring or some pricescope ideal. It means right for YOU.

If you are sure he'll deliver, perfect.

Just know that it's absolutely legitimate to stop that process at any point.
This comes from someone, who's local custom projects were hit and miss.

Until I found David Klass.

I have to ship internationally to /from him and am very reluctant to do so and that's limiting me as well. So I also understand why a local option looks good in the beginning.
Best of luck!!
 

jfo

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
671
Great advice so far.

I hear on your DH' s input and completely understand and respect that you want this project to respect his wishes too.
However,


might be something you need to reconsider. If you feel that the local guy won't be able to get it right, then he probably won't.

To be 100 % clear: "right" in this case doesn't necessarily mean 100 % like the inspiration ring or some pricescope ideal. It means right for YOU.

If you are sure he'll deliver, perfect.

Just know that it's absolutely legitimate to stop that process at any point.
This comes from someone, who's local custom projects were hit and miss.

Until I found David Klass.

I have to ship internationally to /from him and am very reluctant to do so and that's limiting me as well. So I also understand why a local option looks good in the beginning.
Best of luck!!
This is totally fair. I can't cheat myself out of something that I won't be happy with, so I'm not going to be completely inflexible, but I do want to give myself plenty of patience and time to see if this jeweler can do it. I think I'll know when I need to cut bait, but I really hope I won't need to do it.

Still waiting for the new CADs.
 

dreamer_dachsie

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Dec 16, 2007
Messages
24,346
I mean, who is more knowledgeable about diamonds and jewelry, you or your husband? I think the person with more expertise should make this decision. Just my 2c.

Don't pay more than a small deposit until you have seen the wax. And be prepared to walk away.
 

jfo

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
671
I mean, who is more knowledgeable about diamonds and jewelry, you or your husband? I think the person with more expertise should make this decision. Just my 2c.

Don't pay more than a small deposit until you have seen the wax. And be prepared to walk away.
Again, totally fair point. I discussed with my husband tonight. He thinks it’s too early to make a decision to pull out, which I agree. I can tell he wants this to work out with the local jeweler, is frustrated that I already have concerns, but ultimately wants me to get the ring I want. It’s in iterative process with him too though, lol. As you said, I’d at least like to get to the wax stage and see how I’m feeling. I sourced the diamond through them as well so the deposit I paid really is going toward the diamond in my mind.
 

jfo

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
671
Updated CADs with no milgrain/filigree because the jeweler wanted to send along to see if the CAD designer was on the right path.

I admit I haven't looked at these in detail yet (it's been quite a day), so I'm just going to post here and then come back with my thoughts when I've had more time to review and digest. Would love to hear PS community thoughts too.

3d.jpg

Measurements.jpg

platinum ring a_v2.jpg platinum ring aa_v2.jpg platinum ring b_v2.jpg platinum ring c_v2.jpg platinum ring d_v2.jpg
 

jfo

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
671
I took some time to look at the new CADs this evening. Attached is my initial feedback. Am I missing anything? One thing that was a little annoying is that I sent over measurements from the front view the first time and the designer still came back with different measurements. Profile ring side side by side_v2 with markup.png Profile side of ring shank without markup_v2.png Top Down Side by Side with markup_v2.png
 

jfo

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
671
One other thing to add - you will want the milgraining applied to the finished ring, not part of the casting as it will not be as crisp or refined.
I also wanted to mention that I did receive confirmation that they apply the milgrain after the casting, so I was glad to hear it!
 
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