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Help with Jade Art Deco Earrings

Would you use these jade discs in art deco earrings?

  • Yes, they're fabulous!

    Votes: 7 77.8%
  • No, they are low quality or ugly jade.

    Votes: 1 11.1%
  • You should send them to a lab before you use them.

    Votes: 1 11.1%
  • Use them for something else.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    9

Polyhex

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Sep 18, 2003
Messages
550
I have been eyeing a pair of midcentury jade cufflinks in 14k gold on eBay for some time. They are unmarked, but the seller represented them as confirmed by a jeweler to be 14k and grade A jade. I finally bought them after the holidays. I do not know very much about jade except that I like it. =)2

I am scrapping the settings and after removing the jade and weighing them, if the seller is right the jade discs will only cost me about $10! I already sent the settings off so I'll know by mid-week if the seller was right.

Here are the jade discs in different lighting conditions. They are about 19mm with a ~6.7mm hole.

20210103_224338158_iOS (2).jpg

20210103_224325511_iOS (2).jpg

20210103_224343845_iOS (2).jpg

20210103_224401047_iOS (2).jpg

20201231_230136398_iOS (2).jpg

This was the seller's photo, when they were still in the cufflink settings. The cufflinks were about 10 grams and the gold parts were well-made and about 8 grams by themselves.
cuffsellernat.jpg

What I am thinking about doing with them, is using Diamondmounts or CaiMao to make art deco earrings with diamonds, onyx, and possibly colored stones. I have a bunch of unset diamonds, including old cuts and some blingy but low cost 5mm GIA Ms. I bought some small onyx links that will arrive in the next few weeks. I think that given the # of stones I already have, and using the Diamondmounts or CaiMao bench, I can get these done at reasonably low cost. Here are the kind of earrings I have in mind:

9272382_master.jpg

19d7b4f3f43e9f6ddf02c7a78a2ff4d9.jpg

13d80c8bb42c0f6cfb85cbf126824e77.jpg

I will have to make some design changes because I am not going to get onyx custom-cut to fit around the diamonds, but the onyx links have not been hard to find. These are on their way to me, in 8mm, 10mm, and 12mm sizes. I think 8mm is likely going to be the right ones to be links.

1609722785680.png

I also wish the 19mm jade discs were bigger, so I am probably going to put some kind of a frame around them, not exactly like this but as an illustration:
f724904e5511bae1310e0b391d1d40d2 (1).jpg

So questions... I really love the discs, how worried should I be that they are not grade A? Is that something that a jeweler can tell (assuming the cufflinks were made in say 1940s-1970s with whatever treatments were available in that time period) or would I need to send them to a lab to be reasonably sure? I know I would have to send them to a lab to be 100% sure, but what about reasonably sure?

Also, is there any hope of me finding small, reasonably matching jade cabs to go in the top of the earrings where they go through the ear? If so where? I already have good leads for onyx cabs, and I could use diamonds or colored stones as well. I am thinking about putting the 5mm diamonds inside the jade discs, and I don't think I want to spend what it would cost to buy a second pair of 5mm diamonds. =)2 I do have plenty of 4mm diamonds I could use, or create a cluster, or use onyx cabs with diamonds around them.

I am also thinking about making an art deco pendant out of a jade disc my husband bought me around 2003-2004, when we were right out of college. He paid a few hundred dollars from a jewelry store in the US that catered to people of Chinese descent. Since it doesn't match the earring discs, I wouldn't be trying to make a matching set, just using a complimentary style.

20201231_210839280_iOS (2).jpg
 

Daisys and Diamonds

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Apr 30, 2019
Messages
22,773
I also know nothing about Jade but i love love love all your ideas and the pendent also
i love the onyx disks too
very much lookimg forward to how this turns out
 

ItsMainelyYou

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Jun 27, 2014
Messages
4,840
I can't speak to quality because I don't know how to gage it, but I think some deco drops like you're contemplating would be smashing. I'm sure some jade loving PSrs will chime in soon!
 
Joined
Apr 22, 2020
Messages
2,940
Chiming in as another one who doesn’t know anything about jade, but also - if they only cost you $10 i wouldn’t worry so much about the quality as long as they look good worn. It’s not like you’re going to have overpaid even if they aren’t top notch quality right?

I also love your earring ideas! I wouldn’t add jade cabs to the top - I’m liking the idea of mainly diamond and onyx in the earring and just the huge jade disk at the bottom. So a diamond cluster sounds perfect to me. I like the idea of a cluster at the ear (using the 4mms and a halo perhaps), with 2-3 stations with the onyx links, and then a frame for the jade like the 3rd pic with the 5mm inside. I didn’t like the frame in that separate pic you posted, I think the frame in your 3rd inspo pic is better and more Art Deco.

Or, alternately, if the 5mm won’t fit well, you could put the 5mm at the ear and the cluster inside the jade, though I’d prefer it the other way round. You can also rhodium plate the gold in black in places to really make the diamond pop (in the links for example).

Looking forward to see where you take this cool project!
 

LilAlex

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Mar 3, 2018
Messages
3,645
I think they are lovely. I would not invest a lot in them without knowing that they are genuine and neither dyed nor impregnated. I'm sure you got your money's worth as others have said, but making them the centerpiece of a four-figure (more?) investment is different, imo
 

icy_jade

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 1, 2009
Messages
6,131
confirmed by a jeweler to be 14k and grade A jade

I don’t think anyone can confirm grade A jade unless the jeweler is getting the piece from source eg cut from boulder or sends to lab to certify. What about sending to check if it’s type A before you spend so much? Do love the design you have in mind.

Also spotted some black spots - will suggest that you hide them under the setting if possible.
 

T L

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
25,214
Your earring designs are gorgeous. These jade discs will look beautiful in these designs.
 

Polyhex

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Sep 18, 2003
Messages
550
Thank you so much everyone! I am going to send at least one disc to GIA along with my old pendant and a few other stones. What I was hoping was that the treatments available in the mid-20th century are not as sophisticated as today, so a jeweler can be reasonable sure it's "A" grade. (Ex: heating sapphires before the advent of diffusion) BUT it sounds like I will just need to spend a little bit with GIA on making sure.

I know nothing about jade, but i love your ideas! And the pendant from your husband is beautiful

Thank you! I don't remember where I first saw one of these art deco jade and onyx designs but I am in love!

I also know nothing about Jade but i love love love all your ideas and the pendent also
i love the onyx disks too
very much lookimg forward to how this turns out

Thank you! I will definitely keep the thread updated with the journey.

I can't speak to quality because I don't know how to gage it, but I think some deco drops like you're contemplating would be smashing. I'm sure some jade loving PSrs will chime in soon!

Thank you! I'm excited!

I also love your earring ideas! I wouldn’t add jade cabs to the top - I’m liking the idea of mainly diamond and onyx in the earring and just the huge jade disk at the bottom. So a diamond cluster sounds perfect to me. I like the idea of a cluster at the ear (using the 4mms and a halo perhaps), with 2-3 stations with the onyx links, and then a frame for the jade like the 3rd pic with the 5mm inside. I didn’t like the frame in that separate pic you posted, I think the frame in your 3rd inspo pic is better and more Art Deco.

Or, alternately, if the 5mm won’t fit well, you could put the 5mm at the ear and the cluster inside the jade, though I’d prefer it the other way round. You can also rhodium plate the gold in black in places to really make the diamond pop (in the links for example).

Thank you! I really appreciate your design points. I also prefer the 5mm diamonds inside the jade discs, there is something that just looks so charming and amazing about biggish diamonds inside the discs, and the holes on these are large enough that I think I will have a pleasant bit of air gap around the diamonds. I am not sold on a cab at the top.. I think you're right and I should probably use diamonds to pull the design together. And yes, black rhodium is definitely an option, I wonder whether or not it will look right next to the black onyx.


I think they are lovely. I would not invest a lot in them without knowing that they are genuine and neither dyed nor impregnated. I'm sure you got your money's worth as others have said, but making them the centerpiece of a four-figure (more?) investment is different, imo
Thank you! I will send one to GIA before I proceed. If they are confirmed as grade A think I am going to get away with 3 figures or low 4 given how many of the stones I already have. We shall see!

I don’t think anyone can confirm grade A jade unless the jeweler is getting the piece from source eg cut from boulder or sends to lab to certify. What about sending to check if it’s type A before you spend so much? Do love the design you have in mind.

Also spotted some black spots - will suggest that you hide them under the setting if possible.

Thank you! I was hoping vintage jade was easier to confirm, but I'll go ahead and send at least one disc to GIA. I really love the design, and if they turn out to be not as stated then I will find another pair of discs to make the earrings. Though my fingers are crossed for these, the idea of liberating them from old and rarely worn cufflinks is very appealing to me.

Yes it should be possible to hide the tiny black spots. One disc has one side only, and the other one has a very tiny mark on each side which I should be able to place under the gold or platinum elements.

Your earring designs are gorgeous. These jade discs will look beautiful in these designs.

Thank you! I am probably going to have the CAD started before I head back from GIA, because it would be a relatively small change to the design to go with a different pair of disks. I will keep this thread updated.
 

Polyhex

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Sep 18, 2003
Messages
550
I spent some time doing research on Jadeite treatments, which this incredible thread was very helpful in: https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/specific-gravity-of-grade-b-jadeite.243863/

If I'm right that these cufflinks are 1970s at latest, then yes it's possible for knowledgeable people outside of labs to determine they are Grade A, because 1970s predates sophisticated treatments. The jadeite also predates the current preference for icy and glassy jade transparency, but so did all of the jade used in the original 1920s art deco earrings that I want to copy.

I am still mailing them to GIA today because I am curious, but the research increased my optimism that they are untreated. Fingers crossed! I will keep this thread updated on the results and the design progress.
 
Joined
Apr 22, 2020
Messages
2,940
Personally, even if they don't turn out to be Grade A jade I think you should still proceed with the idea - I think these art deco earrings are going to look stunning! But I think my opinion differs slightly from others - I'm all about the design element or the entire 'look'/aesthetic than the quality of the stones necessarily (of course quality is important but its more important to me to not overpay than to always wear top notch quality). Put another way, I don't think of this as spending lets say $1k on settings for $10 jade, but rather as spending $1010 on a pair of showstopping earrings in general. But please do keep us updated - of course I'm rooting for grade A jade for you!
 

prs

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 26, 2017
Messages
1,883
I think your chances with the cufflink discs are very good. If they were treated you'd think they would have done a better job for today's market. =)2 I'm afraid your chances with the pendant aren't quite so good, but it would be a fabulous score if it came back Type A.

I had given up on trying to find hidden treasure in the ocean of treated jadeite we have here in the US, It's just too difficult to spot the fakes. However I do like your idea of looking for pieces that might pre-date modern treatments. Definitely improves the odds!!!
 

Polyhex

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Sep 18, 2003
Messages
550
I have good news! They both came back grade "A" from GIA, and the setting I scrapped was indeed 14k gold, so they were about 10 + GIA cert. =)2

I do agree with everyone that advised not to be afraid of using beautiful treated stones, or dressing inexpensive stones in a gorgeous setting. I generally have zero "mind clean" issues but specifically dyed jade seems to be one of them (but not impregnated jade for some reason?) Anyway no mind clean issues to worry about!

giajadereport.PNG

The little onyx links also arrived and they are perfect! I'm going to design a few options for the earring layout over the weekend. The holes are also big enough on the 8mm and 10mm discs that I could choose to bezel set a diamond inside them.

20210122_171641331_iOS (2).jpg


Personally, even if they don't turn out to be Grade A jade I think you should still proceed with the idea - I think these art deco earrings are going to look stunning! But I think my opinion differs slightly from others - I'm all about the design element or the entire 'look'/aesthetic than the quality of the stones necessarily (of course quality is important but its more important to me to not overpay than to always wear top notch quality). Put another way, I don't think of this as spending lets say $1k on settings for $10 jade, but rather as spending $1010 on a pair of showstopping earrings in general. But please do keep us updated - of course I'm rooting for grade A jade for you!

Thank you! That is excellent advise and I totally agree with you. My only hesitation was that I do seem to have a mind clean issue around dyed jade, though like you I am fine with most other treatments as long as I know what I'm buying and not overpaying thinking they are untreated. Thank you so much for your encouragement!

Maybe the whole is greater than the sum of the parts
and that's perfectly ok
Its called good design !

Thank you so much!

I think your chances with the cufflink discs are very good. If they were treated you'd think they would have done a better job for today's market. =)2 I'm afraid your chances with the pendant aren't quite so good, but it would be a fabulous score if it came back Type A.

I had given up on trying to find hidden treasure in the ocean of treated jadeite we have here in the US, It's just too difficult to spot the fakes. However I do like your idea of looking for pieces that might pre-date modern treatments. Definitely improves the odds!!!

Thank you!! Yeah these cufflinks for sure were not for today's market, the jade is not what younger buyers prefer and by their design I am positive they were mid 20th century and no later than 1970s, probably 40s-60s. They are indeed "A" grade.

And that's a great pint on my donut pendant, it WAS purchased in the very early 00s which I think was the prime time for B grade jade being sold as untreated. Now that I understand how to send things to GIA I'm going to send the donut and we'll see. Even if that comes back treated I will redo the pendant because it's sentimental and beautiful.
 

Daisys and Diamonds

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Apr 30, 2019
Messages
22,773
Im really excitted to hear this
and im enjoying onyx getting some love
 

missy

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jun 8, 2008
Messages
54,095
Love the jade and love the design! ❤️
My only caveat is make sure their weight won’t be too heavy for your ears. I think they’re gorgeous and can’t wait to see the finished earrings on your ears. :love:
 
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