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Help with CADs and melee sizes please

diamondhoarder

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 5, 2012
Messages
959
I have the first round of CADs for my EC halo setting. Here is my stone:



I want the finished ring to have the proportions of this ring: (size of halo relative to size of centre stone)



And I think the halo diamonds slope lightly away and downwards from the centre stone in the above ring, which I have asked for as a feature of my ring. I thought that if the diamonds were angled away from the centre stone a little, then more of their tint might be visible (I color melee) which might make less of a color contrast with my J centre stone. Am I correct here or will this make no difference?

But I want the design features of the ring to be like this one (ie centre stone in double prongs, diamonds brightset, and visible but slender line of gold around the outside of the halo and framing the diamonds in the shank):



So here is the CAD:



The ring is being made by a jeweller I have used before several times (outside of the US) who does lovely work and in the past has met my expectations and interpreted my drawings or inspiration pictures very well.

My concerns are:
1) Is the finished width of the halo (2mm edge to edge) too large for my centre stone considering the proportions I am trying to achieve (As in 1st ring pic above)
2) Should the diamonds be closer together (so needing more of them) in order to get the look of a continued line of diamonds rather than lots of metal between the diamonds?
3) Bearing in mind that my stone measures 5.5 x 6.5mm approx, what size melee should I be asking for in order to ensure that the halo doesnt overpower the centre stone?
4) The halo diamonds dont look slanted very much to me in the CAD, should I ask for a greater slant or will it make very little difference to the color look of the halo diamonds? I am trying to avoid a situation where the halo makes the centre stone look very tinted in comparison
5)I always wanted a halo EC ring but never expected to buy a J stone - I thought I would go for G/H in which case the halo would not look too much whiter than the centre stone (allowing for the more brilliant look of the halo diamonds RB cut). I love my J stone, but should I scrap the idea of a halo altogther and go for I/J tapered baguettes instead as a way of "neutralising" possible color clash concerns?

ec_pics_2_0.jpg

bezel-set-emerald-cut-diamond-engagement-ring-platinum.jpg

halo_ring_picsa.jpg

custom_ring-1.jpg
 

ADN

Shiny_Rock
Trade
Joined
Nov 24, 2015
Messages
311
diamondhoarder|1451306633|3967253 said:
I have the first round of CADs for my EC halo setting. Here is my stone:

I want the finished ring to have the proportions of this ring: (size of halo relative to size of centre stone)

And I think the halo diamonds slope lightly away and downwards from the centre stone in the above ring, which I have asked for as a feature of my ring. I thought that if the diamonds were angled away from the centre stone a little, then more of their tint might be visible (I color melee) which might make less of a color contrast with my J centre stone. Am I correct here or will this make no difference?

But I want the design features of the ring to be like this one (ie centre stone in double prongs, diamonds brightset, and visible but slender line of gold around the outside of the halo and framing the diamonds in the shank):

So here is the CAD:

The ring is being made by a jeweller I have used before several times (outside of the US) who does lovely work and in the past has met my expectations and interpreted my drawings or inspiration pictures very well.

My concerns are:
1) Is the finished width of the halo (2mm edge to edge) too large for my centre stone considering the proportions I am trying to achieve (As in 1st ring pic above)
2) Should the diamonds be closer together (so needing more of them) in order to get the look of a continued line of diamonds rather than lots of metal between the diamonds?
3) Bearing in mind that my stone measures 5.5 x 6.5mm approx, what size melee should I be asking for in order to ensure that the halo doesnt overpower the centre stone?
4) The halo diamonds dont look slanted very much to me in the CAD, should I ask for a greater slant or will it make very little difference to the color look of the halo diamonds? I am trying to avoid a situation where the halo makes the centre stone look very tinted in comparison
5)I always wanted a halo EC ring but never expected to buy a J stone - I thought I would go for G/H in which case the halo would not look too much whiter than the centre stone (allowing for the more brilliant look of the halo diamonds RB cut). I love my J stone, but should I scrap the idea of a halo altogther and go for I/J tapered baguettes instead as a way of "neutralising" possible color clash concerns?

Hi - lots to answer - will give my opinion on a few and rely on opinions from other PSers...
First, regarding your cad - since you seem to know and trust them, follow your jewellers advice on this - - and remember, this isn't a cad for rendering/imaging purposes - this is a cad for casting, and as such the jeweller has to factor in variables (metal loss / etc) that may not make the cad look exactly like you are imagining - just make sure you are clear with your expectations prior to the job being done.
1,2&3 - your EC is squarer than the images you're basing the design on, so you will have to make some allowances that it's not going to have the same sleek rectangular look. You'll have to weigh up options regarding the halo mm size matching the band, but assuming your jeweller is using 100pc ([email protected] each) for the smalls? you could maybe drop down to 120pc-150pc and narrow the halo to give it a slightly less blocky/finer look? Best to speak to your jeweller about this - and make sure they understand that you want the bezel around the outside to be as fine as they can get it.
4. Not likely to really notice much difference between J centre and I sides - emerald will show a bit more colour than the brilliant cut sides, but should be fine. If you're really concerned about the colour variance, speak to your jeweller - when they buy the smalls for the halo/band, they're sold to them from parcels of like-with-like - for example, they will probably buy from a parcel of GHI SI or HIJ I1 goods - - get them to pick out the bottom end I/J colour and only use those.
I'm not convinced about the slight slant to the halo for a grain setting? Others will have opinions on this I'm sure.
5. This is personal taste and you're the one that has to live with it not us :) -- I personally like the contrast between a step cut and the brilliant cuts surrounding it
Hope this helps - be sure to show the final product :)
 

diamondhoarder

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 5, 2012
Messages
959
ADN|1451392203|3967777 said:
You'll have to weigh up options regarding the halo mm size matching the band, but assuming your jeweller is using 100pc ([email protected] each) for the smalls? you could maybe drop down to 120pc-150pc and narrow the halo to give it a slightly less blocky/finer look? Best to speak to your jeweller about this - and make sure they understand that you want the bezel around the outside to be as fine as they can get it.

Thanks for you advice ADN :) That has given me plenty to think about. You are correct that he was planning to use 1.3mm diamonds but I was wondering about going smaller. What mm size would the 120pc and 150pc melee be?

ADN|1451392203|3967777 said:
I'm not convinced about the slight slant to the halo for a grain setting? Others will have opinions on this I'm sure.

What would you envisage being the problem having a slight slant with a grain setting? Will it look poor visually? And will it make no difference to the color perception of the I color melee?
 

ADN

Shiny_Rock
Trade
Joined
Nov 24, 2015
Messages
311
diamondhoarder|1451404465|3967870 said:
ADN|1451392203|3967777 said:
You'll have to weigh up options regarding the halo mm size matching the band, but assuming your jeweller is using 100pc ([email protected] each) for the smalls? you could maybe drop down to 120pc-150pc and narrow the halo to give it a slightly less blocky/finer look? Best to speak to your jeweller about this - and make sure they understand that you want the bezel around the outside to be as fine as they can get it.

Thanks for you advice ADN :) That has given me plenty to think about. You are correct that he was planning to use 1.3mm diamonds but I was wondering about going smaller. What mm size would the 120pc and 150pc melee be?

ADN|1451392203|3967777 said:
I'm not convinced about the slight slant to the halo for a grain setting? Others will have opinions on this I'm sure.

What would you envisage being the problem having a slight slant with a grain setting? Will it look poor visually? And will it make no difference to the color perception of the I color melee?

In these mm sizes I don't think it will have any effect whatsoever on the colour of the smalls - - I just think it could look a bit dated if on a slant...personal opinion based on only my taste...sorry for mentioning this as what I think is completely irrelevant..it's about what you like the look of :)
120pc are about 1.2mm & 150pc are about 1.125mm - - not a huge difference, but if you have a few more running down the side it may give the illusion of length? see what your jeweller thinks
Also I just saw another thread under 'active topics' called 'Should I make my 3 carat EC bling more?' by Emeraldsaremyfavorite -- she has a lovely EC ring and seems to be going through a similar thought process as you - maybe have a look as it might help
Good luck :)
 
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