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Help with Bezel Setting for Pink Tourmaline

metromom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 27, 2007
Messages
237
Hi everyone. Was hoping the lovely members of Pricescope could provide some setting suggestions help.

Background: I have been casually searching for my perfect pink tourmaline for over a year. I spoke to many of the gem cutters recommended on here and actually purchased a few stones but none of them had the exact color or liveliness that I was after. I originally wanted an emerald or an asscher but wasn't set on the shape. In a weird but wonderful series of circumstances, I had the pleasure of meeting a gentleman named Joel Arem. Joel is a lifelong gem cutter and dealer, has published many books and teachings on gems, and worked in the Smithsonian for many years. While finding him online, it ended up he lives not even 10 minutes from me, and we met at a coffee shop chatting about gems and looking through his amazing collection. He showed me a stone and thought I never wanted a round brilliant, this stone "spoke" to me and I had to have it.

The stone: Beautiful pink tourmaline from Mozambique cut by Elvis Buzz Grey in 1972. It's a perfectly cut round brilliant that is 4.4 carats and 10.5 mm in diameter. I am attaching photos but believe me, they do not do the stone justice.

So now I am on the search for a setting. I definitely want a bezel and I am torn on whether I want a halo or not. The stone is rather large, so I don't want anything that will be huge on my hand (I am a size 5.) I was originally looking at Sally's Grace or Iolita settings, but to be honest, I just don't have the courage to ship this rare stone to Thailand. I then was thinking about a small but delicate floral halo, to the likes of Greenlake Jewelry or SingleStone.

What is your favorite bezel/halo setting that you think would showcase this stone best. Oh, and it will be a right hand ring.

Thanks everyone!

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S

SparkliesLuver

Guest
Awesome stone! :) Super happy "the one" found you. I don't have any designs to post at the moment, but I want to give it a bit more thought. I'll be back. :Up_to_something:
 

RissaLou

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Nov 6, 2008
Messages
923
This one caught my eye. I think it would look really nice with a simple high polish shank.

Edited to add: Your stone is gorgeous by the way, and I loved reading about your search!

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dk168

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Messages
5,629
These are what I have in mind for my 9mm Rubellite cut by Jeff White if I were to set it as a ring (plain shank without millgrain):

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DK :))
 

rainydaze

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 1, 2007
Messages
2,831
So funny, I have an 8x8 round pink tourmaline that I am also looking to set. So I have been searching for settings with a similar goal in mind, right down to it being a bezel setting.

Here are two from Stuller that I love. Here they are in rose gold, but they are also offered in white gold, yellow gold, and platinum.

stullerbezelgorge.jpg

stullerbezelgorge2.jpg

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rainydaze

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 1, 2007
Messages
2,831
Here's a perspective shot of the first one, in a white metal: :love:

stullergorgewhite.jpg
 

PattyCo

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Sep 26, 2011
Messages
593
Sholdt also has some beautiful bezel and semi-bezel settings. Here is an example of one on the Love Affair Diamonds website that is a gorgeous example. The brushed, pink gold helps the antique diamond not look out of place in such a modern setting. The white diamond and pink gold are a nice contrast to each other. I can imagine your tourmaline in brushed white gold, it would be the reverse color combination and gives you an idea of how your tourmaline might look in the setting.

http://www.loveaffairdiamonds.com/1-52ct-old-european-cut-diamond-in-sholdt-channel-set-diamond-semi-bezel-egl-k-vs2/
 

metromom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 27, 2007
Messages
237
Wow, thanks for the suggestions. What beautiful settings and inspiration. So SingleStone, LAD and GreenLake are way out of my price range. I have an email into David Klass as I have always wanted to try him and I'll see what he comes up with.

I think I am definitely leaning towards a thin bezel with milgrain. That's a definite. What I can't decide is whether or not I want a floral type halo with it or not. Here are a few pictures I have saved for inspiration that I sent to David. I'm not sure if these will make the ring too big/cocktail looking.

If I did want to go with a thin milgrain bezel and plain shank, who would you guys recommend make it (in the US.) Is DanielM not taking orders now? I contacted JuliaBJewelry, who won't set such a rare tourmaline, and JanishJewels, who only works in yellow gold. I want to keep it reasonable but I really want someone who does nice bezel work.

Thanks!

floral.jpg

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Acinom

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 15, 2013
Messages
10,033
I can recommend David Klass and his work is very reasonably priced. Hopefully he gets back to you with a quote within your budget.

As your beautiful stone is already big, I would opt for a sophisticated thin milgrained bezel. This is a very personal choice though. Just choose what you find attractive.
 

metromom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 27, 2007
Messages
237
I also have a call into Hunt Country Jewelers. They are about an hour drive from me so I wanted to go there in person as I would really love to see some of their designs. This is the setting I love from them, if they could add milgrain and maybe make the bezel a little finer. What do you guys think of this?

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Acinom

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 15, 2013
Messages
10,033
Gorgeous design!!
I love the organic feel of this ring.
 
S

SparkliesLuver

Guest
I love the idea! I second your thought of making the bezel a little finer and adding milgrain. I'm curious what the profile looks like.
 

lovedogs

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 31, 2014
Messages
10,405
metromom|1453400734|3979210 said:
I also have a call into Hunt Country Jewelers. They are about an hour drive from me so I wanted to go there in person as I would really love to see some of their designs. This is the setting I love from them, if they could add milgrain and maybe make the bezel a little finer. What do you guys think of this?
Love this design! I think it flows nicely and has a great "organic" feel (as Acinom so aptly put it). Either way this design sounds great and I'm excited to see what you come up with!


EDIT: Metromom: where did you get that pic that you have labeled IDJ? I love that design around the center stone--reminds me of Tacori but different. Just wondering who made it :)
 

metromom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 27, 2007
Messages
237
I can't remember whose ring it was, but it was posted in the "Show me your 3+ carat stones" thread, and she said she had it made at ID Jewelry in NY.
 

InToTheMystic

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jan 18, 2013
Messages
146
My Demantoid garnet ring has both a bezel and a halo (and milgrain!) - it was a useful way to protect the stone, and to allow some mixing of metals to make the colour pop.



More pics here: [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/1-8ct-namibian-demantoid-garnet-halo-ring.209114/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/1-8ct-namibian-demantoid-garnet-halo-ring.209114/[/URL]

My stone was smaller than yours (looooove that tourmaline, btw) but you could scale the diamonds down so it doesn't take up your entire hand - unless, of course, that's what you were going for! :)

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metromom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 27, 2007
Messages
237
IntoTheMystic - Wow, that's gorgeous!!!!
I would love something like that but definitely with scaled down diamonds.
How has it held up to wear?
 

InToTheMystic

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jan 18, 2013
Messages
146
metromom|1453418961|3979380 said:
IntoTheMystic - Wow, that's gorgeous!!!!
I would love something like that but definitely with scaled down diamonds.
How has it held up to wear?
Surprisingly well, considering how horridly clumsy I am. There's a couple of teeny facet abrasions, but you don't see them unless your nose is touching the stone or you have a loupe. I probably wear it about once a fortnight, but only to work (desk job) or out to dinner and it goes back in to its bling box as soon as I get home.

As weird as it sounds I kind of like the little abrasions, because I think over time they will make it look more like an actual (future) antique rather than a piece of pristine costume jewellery. It was also sort of a relief when I got the first one because it was like "phew! It happened! Now I get to stop stressing about when the first scuff will happen!". I'm like that with the first scratch on a new car as well. I'm sure other people who aren't quite as destructive have very different thought processes ;-)
 

InToTheMystic

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jan 18, 2013
Messages
146
Just to add: my engagement ring is a tourmaline, and I have been wearing that almost daily for about 4 years now. It too has held up surprisingly well, with only a couple of little scuffs over time. The beauty of an emerald cut is that it's quite easy to repolish, but alternatively having quite a busy cut like a round brilliant or a portugese means that the complex faceting hides damage a bit better. Having it set low and bezelled has helped the cause as well, so I think you're on the right track with your ideas.



Your ring will be absolutely beautiful. Can't wait to see what design you go with.

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chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 22, 2004
Messages
37,363
What is your budget? Some of the rings posted range from 5K to 1K.
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 22, 2004
Messages
37,363
A halo setting in platinum will be well over your budget. If you do a plain metal bezel (with design), you should be able to stay under budget easily.
 
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